BayFish28
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Posts posted by BayFish28
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Hi All,
So I have a sick Bronze Cory (fungal? see pic) in a quarantine tank (5 Gallon bare bottom with sponge filter) that I use for new fish purchases. There are 4 Amano shrimp in there with another Bronze Cory in good health and a couple Assassin snails and a bunch of pest bladder snails.
All water parameters are good as this tank has been set up for 8 months now. Question I have is, what medicine is best to treat and if I do treat what do I do with the shrimp and assassin snails as I don't want to kill them. I don't care to much for the bladder snails as they were a pest hitchhiker from some plants I bought.
I have Paraguard, Kanaplex, and Fritz Maracyn Oxy on hand as far as medicine go so wondering what the best route is. Thank you
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On 12/31/2021 at 8:37 PM, 2000tetras said:
6 months is not unusual
Oh wow I wasn’t aware of that.
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On 12/29/2021 at 12:16 AM, 2000tetras said:
They only live for less than a year in a heated tank in my experience. Old age is what I would assume.
I don't think it was older than 3-4 months since I got him when he was the size of a dime and grew to quarter size in about 2 months.
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On 12/28/2021 at 2:33 PM, Guppysnail said:
Scoop out some tank water and place him in that. Im also sorry for your loss as the smell means it is soon time.
Yeah based off another forum, another person told me to take him out and float him in a container in the tank in case he does die and doesn't ammonia spike the tank. He seems to smell worse now 🙁so maybe it's getting to that time unfortunately ☠️.
Thanks for everyones input in the matter
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On 12/28/2021 at 1:41 PM, laritheloud said:
If he stinks of anything more than normal pond water, then yes. Do you have best snails on him trying to eat him? Does he respond when you push on the trapdoor?
If not, then I'm sorry for your loss. 😞 It can happen so fast.
I have to get real close to smell him but he stinks a bit more than pond water and barely responds. I was thinking about putting him in my quarantine tank that I'm cycling but nitrites are 0.25ppm so not sure if I should or not but I hear a dead or dying snail can wreak havok with ammonia spikes
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So i took him out to check and he does smell a bit, stinky. I hear that is a sign of death or near death?😟
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On 12/28/2021 at 1:11 PM, Guppysnail said:
Easy green is safe for snails but only in the recommended dosage. Are you using more than the amount stated on the bottle? the wrinkled paralysis can be a reaction to copper. Easy green and most copper containing foods are safe even combined but it adds up and extra can push the limits on other things that build up in our tanks as well if not removed with water changes. I have had snails pass like this for reasons i have never been able to determine. It is very frustrating. Once paralyzed they occasionally do come back so please do not give up hope.
I actually use less then the recommended dose, maybe once every 1.5-2 weeks? I feed a mixture of dry flakes, repashy, frozen foods (daphnia, brine, blood worms) so hopefully those don't have any excess copper that I'm unaware of.
Yeah, odd to see my best forager and eater act like this while everyone else in the tank is fine.
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On 12/28/2021 at 12:37 PM, laritheloud said:
The cotton like discharge typically means some sort of irritation or old age. It can be a sign of a reaction to a chemical or poor water quality, but it could also just mean old age. Whenever I have seen one of my larger snails releasing discharge they are usually pretty close to passing away, sadly. Sometimes I can trace it to a med I used on the tank, but others it was for no discernible reason.
You can leave him be so long as he's still alive and just check on him at least once daily.
I got him as an adolescent a couple months back and he's grown to twice his original size so he's not very old. My water parameters are good and the only chemical I use in the tank is Easy Green. There is both green and brown algae in the tank but I don't think that would hurt him right?
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On 12/28/2021 at 12:20 PM, laritheloud said:
Shriveled and wrinkly foot is generally not a good sign. Have you seen any discharge? It would look like white cottony mucus with black dots.
Actually I saw some discharge like a white cottony thing and I removed it. It's almost looked as if something was eating it but I've never seen my pygmy or ember tetras messing with him.
Would the cotton like discharge mean close to death? 😕
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I was wondering if my mystery snail is dying. I've only had him a few months and got him when he was only half this size. He was active( actually one of the most active inhabitant always hunting for food) as normal a few days ago but the last 2 days he's been sitting like this. Water parameters are fine pH 7.0 Ammonia and Nitrites 0 Nitrates 10ppm. All other fish (pygmy cory and ember tetras) are fine. I took him out and he doesn't stink yet but when I gently touch him he doesn't really go back into his shell, there is small movement but nothing much. Also, it's hard to tell in the pic, but his foot is sort of shriveled up and wrinkly. This is my first snail BTW.
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On 12/15/2021 at 10:35 AM, stitches said:
Hi @bayfish28! and anyone else that can help! Just curious to know how you finally got them to pay attention to the food and eat it. your situation is so close to mine. i have a 10 gallon, 5 cories, one java fern and a tiny baby anubia. the tank is newly cycled (been prepping it for my betta). i've had the cories about 2 weeks and do not see them eating. i've tried
- freeze dried blood worms
- sinking wafers
- frozen blood worms
- fish flakes (shop said it'd work, it didn't)
- vibra bites (my betta loves these)...
yet, it doesn't seem like any of the food disappear but have had a few spikes in ammonia because of the uneaten food lol not fun. i do see them foraging but... what are they eating? i'm very new to the fish world and i'm worried i'm doing something wrong.
So my experience was first few days they weren't foraging at all just cuddled up under a cave I made and just stayed there probably due to new surroundings and water parameters. My tank is somewhat heavily planted so that might have aided them in feeling more comfortable. I have java moss, java fern, dwarf hairgrass, subwassertang, pogostemon octopus, some small crypts, bacopa, anubias petite so maybe all that helped.
Currently I've been feeding all inhabitant of the tank a variety of flake, frozen blood worms, brine shrimp, daphnia, repashy soilent green, north fin fry starter. I think they like the frozen stuff the best so far.
BTW water temp is about 75 deg F, zero ammonia and nitrites, 10ppm nitrates.
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Unfortunately he didn't make it. Made the mistake of not letting quarantine tank cycle. I only put some old water from the main tank and let the new sponge filter run. After checking water parameters the Nitrites were about 0.25ppm so that didn't help. Lesson learned, going to nuke the sponge filter and clean everything out, let it all dry and then will start from scratch and wait for the QT to fully cycle before I try to put any fish in the main tank.
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On 12/5/2021 at 3:56 PM, Colu said:
Personally I would use ick x over salt with catfish you could add a small amount of salt in with the ick x 1 table spoon for 5 gallons that will help improve Gill function and add essential electrolytes to help reduce stress in your fish during treatment at that level it shouldn't harm your plants or effect your Otto's
Ok thanks for the advice I’ll probably go that route since it’s safer
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So if I had a quarantine tank better to use the ich x vs salt correct?
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On 12/5/2021 at 2:59 AM, Colu said:
If it has a fuzzy appearance then I would treat with ick x as that treats fungal infections you shouldn't need to use maracyn ick x should do the trick
OK I'll get some of the ICH X but I've also heard people treating fish with salt which is something that seems more natural maybe?
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So I recently purchased a couple Oto's and got them from a reputable shop that quarantined them prior to putting them up for sale. Today, I noticed one of them has some cotton growth on it's tail and I assume it's fungus. I know these guys get stressed out big time when they get harvested from the wild and feel bad for them , was even second guessing buying them in the first place. What's the best way to go about treating it? I don't have a quarantine tank unfortunately, the other fish in the tank are fine including the other Oto. Have pygmy cory's, ember tetras, amano shrimp, and a mystery snail in a 10 gallon. What's the best way to go about treating the tank? I've heard ICH-X and Maracyn combo but have also heard the stuff has killed fish. Please advise, thanks!
I tried taking a current pic but he's hiding in a corner so this is the best pic I have.
- pH 7.0
- Nitrates 10ppm
- Hardness 5dgh
- Nitrite 0
- Ammonia 0
- KH/Buffer 6dkh
- Water Temperature 76 deg F
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On 11/29/2021 at 3:56 AM, Andy's Fish Den said:
If you have a LFS that has a good selection of frozen foods, you can get frozen baby brine, cyclops of daphnia. I love frozen daphnia for little fish, I feed a cube a couple times a week to my multi shell dweller tank, and i find fish of all sizes out munching it down.
I'll have to look into daphnia thanks!
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On 11/28/2021 at 9:16 AM, Gator said:
@BayFish28; Baby Cories are really small also as are many other fish I've bred over the years. What I've found that works for all baby fish that don't require infusoria as a first food (Betta's Gourami's) is to put a lot of Nightcrawlers in a blender, an entire package of frozen Bloodworms, an entire package of frozen Brine shrimp, push the puree button, let it run for 5 minutes, and then I'll have food fine enough to feed to any baby fish. Of course, any of my baby fish will have a diet similar to what they would find in the wild.
Oh my cory's are adults as I don't breed them but I have a small tank so blending may be a bit too much but thanks for the advice! Maybe when I get a larger tank I'll definitely take this into account
On 11/28/2021 at 6:44 AM, Guppysnail said:I use a cheese grater for frozen foods for my tiny ones so the get a variety.
Actually that's an interesting idea. Maybe get like a small, fine grater. Thanks!
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On 11/27/2021 at 9:20 PM, xXInkedPhoenixX said:
Yea frozen food labeling can be tricky. There are also LARGE BLOCKS and MINI BLOCKS and even frozen pouches you have to break pieces off of. So look for BABY brine and the size appropriate for how many fish/how much you want to feed within a day or 2. I use the mini blocks mostly.
OK I'll have to pay more attention next time I'm out at the store. THanks!
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On 11/27/2021 at 8:40 PM, xXInkedPhoenixX said:
I have Embers, Endlers and CPDs and have the same issue. I've heard of some people crushing or chopping up some frozen foods to make it smaller. I've not tried that HOWEVER, get frozen BABY brine and ALL my fish love that. 🙂 I have regular brine too, nobody seems to be interested in them even my Harlequins and Black Neons.
Oh I didn't know they sold frozen baby brine, I'll have to give that a shot and maybe I'll try to chop up the frozen worms and brine if I can. Thanks!
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Does anyone have a recommendation of frozen food for smaller fish with small mouths? I've been using frozen brine and blood worms but find some of my fish (pygmy cory) have to work somewhat hard to eat some of the food since it's large compared to their tiny mouths.
Thanks!!
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On 11/25/2021 at 3:41 PM, Gator said:
@BayFish28; Your pH can be 7.0 and your water can still be hard water, your shrimp and snail need hard water to form their shells, they actually need Calcium carbonate and Potassium, crushed coral provides both, but your choice of fish become somewhat limited. Think of African cichlids, Guppies, Halfbeaks, Mollies, Platies, and Swordtails that all prefer hard, alkaline water.
I just tested my KH and it was 4dkh and my GH was 5dGH so this is with the crushed coral removed yesterday. Perhaps at these ranges I could probably leave the coral in and monitor.
On 11/25/2021 at 1:12 PM, Patrick_G said:I think a Mystery Snail is a great Centerpiece. I love those guys!
I think your stocking will be fine, all those fish are tiny and have a small bioload and you have lots of plants. Add one group at a time and watch your parameters.
One thing I’ve learned from the forum and Coop related YouTube is that stocking levels depend on the fish keeper as much as any rules of thumb. I’ve seen tanks packed with crazy amounts of very healthy, happy fish because the keeper has lots of plants and is willing to do frequent water changes.I actually used aqadvisors stocking calculator and it said with an added 3 oto and 6 endler it would be still ok and that's not taking into account the plants. I'll be diligent on doing the weekly water changes as well as the constant water testing.
Yeah, the mystery snail is crazy active and every time I drop any food in the tank he immediately starts to hunt it down. I've seen him sleeping in a corner somewhere and and soon as the food hits the water he wakes within seconds and goes to forage!
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On 11/25/2021 at 10:41 AM, Patrick_G said:
If you’re maintaining at 7 ph I’d leave the crushed coral in, especially since you have shrimp and are planning on adding livebearers like Endlers.
As for the Ottocinclus, I love them and have them in three tanks. I feed a variety of foods and they always seem to find something to keep their bellies fat.Yeah I was going to ask if the crushed coral was related to the diatom growth. So with my current tank inhabitants of 2 small Amano, 4 Pygmy Cory, 1 mystery snail do you think I could add 2-3 more Oto's and 6 endlers?
I figure since Oto's like to be in groups I'd get at least 3 but do you think it's too much with the endlers I plan on getting? I wanted more colorful mid schooling fish because as of now the pygmy aren't very colorful and I hardly see the shrimp. My mystery snail is actually my centerpiece fish LOL.
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On 11/24/2021 at 3:58 PM, Gator said:
@BayFish28; What type of fish do you have? If you have African cichlids, leave the crushed coral in the filter as African cichlids prefer hard water, if you have any other species of fish, they prefer their water softer.
Just pygmy cory and shrimp for now, the pH has been maintaining at 7.0 with the coral (small bag of it in the HOB). I'll take it out and monitor pH as the days pass and see if it drifts.
Sick Cory in a quarantine tank, what's best to treat?
in Diseases
Posted
OK will do thanks Colu!