iRollDetroit
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Posts posted by iRollDetroit
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On 11/18/2021 at 6:45 PM, WillC said:
@iRollDetroit How are you liking the ownership experience of a waterbox minimal tank vs your flex?
Will
Hey Will!
So far so good! I do like the clean look of the minimalist WB 30g. It’s hard to say which I prefer. There is some obvious convenience with the AIO
I think if I could go back, I would do the Waterbox 20g AIO over the Flex. I’ve found stocking the Flex 15 to be a little strange just because of footprint. It’s just as tall as wide so most fish that “could” work in a standard 15g, I have been hesitant to try. Right not the Flex is heavily planted with pea puffers. The WB Cube 20 is a few inches wider and deeper so I feel like it opens up a few more options.
Here is a photo of the current 30g “minimalist” tank. Ignore the army of snails, they are Fig 8 puffer food 🙂
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On 7/16/2021 at 8:48 PM, Streetwise said:
I think the individual LEDs are the same, but you get a different number in each size. At one point, I had 3-4 Nanos on the glass of a sixteen bow, but running at perhaps 20-30%. This was overkill, and one 15” does the job.
However, on larger rimless tanks, multiple Nanos might be a fun option.
I ran 2-3 on my Askoll 20 for a while, also before the 15” unit showed up, which is what I use now.
For sure. I've just gotta pull the trigger on something lol!
The goal was to make the tank as minimalist looking as possible. I am running an inline diffuser for CO2 on the Oase filter with built-in heater. As of now, the only thing "in the tank" will be the lily pipes.
Just cant decide if 2 Nanos or the strip will look better haha
Thanks for the input!
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On 7/16/2021 at 8:24 PM, Streetwise said:
The Fluval Nanos can give you height, and the 24” is nice too. I used many configurations, especially before the 15” unit appeared. If you skim my indoor journal, you will see the various configurations that I tried.
Am I sacrificing anything with the Nanos on a tank that's 18" deep? I'm not super concerned with the cost as much as I am the looks lol I really like the idea of having the 2 of them but would be willing to get the 24" strip if performance/growth/coverage is superior.
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I am in the process of setting up a 30g Waterbox with CO2 and cannot decide on which lighting system I would like to go with. I would prefer to stick with Fluval due to already having 3 others and I would like to use one app to control all of my lights. I
Dimensions of tank are 24"x18"x18"
Aesthetically, I would really like to do 2 of the Fluval Nano lights but am worried about coverage/depth with carpet plants. The other option would be the 24" Plant 3.0.
Am I going to see any major differences or reasons why the 2 Nanos is a bad idea?
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On 6/29/2021 at 6:07 PM, Colu said:
Thats looks like a bacterial infection that started to cause necrosis of the skin I would start treating with kanaplex and API furan2 together combined they make a more broad spectrum antibiotic treatment
Unfortunately he passed about an hour ago :(
I thought things were taking a good turn yesterday, Ich seemed to have completely cleared up. Today, he took a very drastic turn for the worse.
Thank you for your advice today and before. I wish things had gone better for him.
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Hello everyone,
Updating this thread in hopes someone has seen something similar or has any input. This puffer has continued to get progressively worse. After switching to Ich-X after 8/9 days of ParaGuard with no changes, the Ich has seemed to be cleaned up. I am continuing treatment for another 3/4 days as recommended.
I have been doing daily 50% WCs and have continued to dose with Melafix to assist in clearing up the eye cloudiness. It's condition has continued to worsen daily. As of today, it's lost most of the color in the front right side of it's face.
Here are some current photos, I apologize, they are uncomfortable to view. Feeling terrible for this little guy 😞
Any advice is appreciated.
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On 6/21/2021 at 11:49 AM, Colu said:
What I would is keep treating with paraguard for the ich and the marine salt will help with eye condition cloudy eye is usually caused by poor water quality keep a close eye on parametersI would recommend soaking his food in seachem garlic guard to try and simulate his appetite
Will do. I appreciate it. I am not sure how water quality was bad, testing multiple times a day have all been within recommended parameters for Fig 8s. I know the cloudy eye is a symptom and would like to know the initial cause.
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Hello everyone,
Hoping for some advice. I purchased 2 Figure 8 Puffers 6 days ago. They are in a 32g Fluval Flex that was setup as FW. This tank has been setup/cycled for a few months, originally was housing some smaller cichlids prior to moving them to my main tank and prepping for puffers. They are the only fish in the tank. I purchased one smaller one (about 2in) and a larger one (probably 3.5" or so) that I assume is much older. Both showed normal "new home" symptoms for the first day. The smaller fish began eating after a day, the larger did not show any interest in food but seemed fine. The fish were held in FW at the LFS I purchased them from.
About 3 days ago, the larger one (pictured) still had no appetite and started to display a slight white film over one eye. I researched a bit online and decided to dose with Melafix, thinking it was due to possibly injuring the eye from stress glass surfing or bumping into decor.
Yesterday (2 days of Melafix), it had gotten much worse, now much less translucent film and visibly white. Only on one eye, still not eating.
Today, I noticed it was starting to develop spots on its back that looks like Ich (the pictures look much worse than in person). I decided to visit my LFS for some advice. They strongly advised against using Melafix and suggested ParaGuard and to begin raising the SG slowly. I did a 15% WC and brought the SG up to 1.002/3ish (hard to get exact number on the hydrometer I purchased, I ordered a refractometer this afternoon). I had planned on beginning the move to brackish after 2/3 weeks and the puffers were comfortable with their new home and myself.
Larger puffer is very lethargic, staying near the bottom for the most part with the occasional exploring. It doesn't seem to like the lights so I have been keeping them off. It's belly is occasionally lite grey (approx 20% of belly) while floating near the bottom which could just be it camouflaging and not stress? The greyness goes away almost immediately when it starts to swim around again.
The smaller puffer seems perfectly fine still, eating as much as I'll give. Swimming around happily, checking on his buddy.
pH: 7.5 (can raise with Malawi buffer I have for my cichlids if suggested, LFS said that marine salt will raise this and will test again in the morning EST) Tank has aragonite sand and Texas Holey Rock that was purchased specifically to keep PH higher. It was reading at 8.0 all week on my liquid test but LFS stated it was 7.5 today with a digital tool today.
Nitrates: <10ppm
Hardness: Reading between 150-300 on Multistrip Tests from coop store
Nitrite: 0
Ammonia: Has been 0 all week on Coop test strips and API Liquid Tests. LFS tested water today and said they detected trace amounts <.10. This may be some food I have added over the last 2/3 days trying to get the larger one to eat. Should be resolved by the WC I did today.
KH/Buffer: Between 40-80 on the multi test strip
Water Temperature: Was 78 until raising to 82 over the past 3 days incrementally. I have read that higher temp is good for treating Ich.
I am aware that I may not be able to save it but even advice on something I may have done wrong is helpful. I have tried to be as diligent in research and care as possible and it sucks to see something wrong, especially if it's something I did. I have been looking forward to getting these fish for months now :/
Thanks everyone,
Ben
Light suggestion for Waterbox Clear Mini 30
in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Posted
There’s pros and cons for sure. A 40g opens up some options that a 20g doesn’t have. Figure out what you want to stock first, then go from there!
I think it would be really cool to have 2 identical tanks next to each other with opposite color schemes, one with white sand and dragon stone or seiryu rock and the other with dark substrate and driftwood.