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Phoenix1391

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Posts posted by Phoenix1391

  1. On 8/4/2023 at 7:34 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

    It is very common to size them, so to speak and it's 100% about size of the shrimp (age).

    Amanos can grow pretty quickly, but if you have a concern of them being eaten then you'd want to have a larger size. 

    I would always recommend getting the smallest possible because they are extremely adept at hiding and they will just give you more for the same cost.

    Small = ~0.5" or so normally
    medium (i.e. normal) = 0.75-1"
    large or XL = 1" or bigger

    Full size they can easily hit 2-3 inches.

    Not worried about them being eaten, their co-inhabitants are otos and celestial pearl danios. Thank you for the info!

    • Love 1
  2. Does anyone know if the sizes of amanos sold by aqua huna are genetics or just age? Specifically I ordered the size small since that was all they had and was surprised just how small they were. Is this due to genetics or are they just suuuper young compared to the size medium I have bought before. The small are probably 1/4” in length whereas the medium I bought before were probably twice to triple the size. 

  3. On 7/31/2023 at 6:40 PM, Zac said:

    This is just me but I feel like 70% per week is very stressful for the fish. If you manage your ferts well, you should really only need like 20% weekly. My guess is it’s something bacterial. You could quarantine him with water and treat the quarantine tank with antibiotics if you want.

    So maracyn? And if he’s the only inhabitant couldn’t I just treat that tank? 

  4. The bump has been quickly growing this week. I was thinking it was a tumor as he may not have the best breeding as he has diamond eye. But upon feeding him today I noticed it turned white maybe looking like it developed into a lesion? Before it was just a bump under scales. Is it possibly a cyst or abscess that popped? And how should i treat?

    the tank is a 14 gallon heavily planted, well established for months, filtered with an aqua clear 50. Ph stays between 6.5 - 7.0. Nitrates are usually pretty low as I do weekly 70 % water changes with remineralized RO. 

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  5. On 2/11/2023 at 12:03 PM, zpayne10 said:

    That makes sense, and I appreciate the feedback!

    In addition to the dosing question, how does one differentiate a low vs medium tech tank?

    Not a fan of the low vs high term. It’s more like a spectrum. Basically the ideal high tech is co2, high lighting, powerful filter. Low tech is well, the opposite. Low tech could mean a bowl of water with a beta. 
     

    but in reality most people just consider is there co2? Ok high tech. But really you could run a tank with co2 that is more akin to low tech with a cheap light, and a weak filter. It’s just whatever works best for you and your aquarium. 

  6. On 2/14/2023 at 1:30 PM, Sleepy said:

    The simple answer is more water changes but if you dont want to do that the only other thing I can suggest is putting more of a cap on the stratum.

    Maybe it’s time I get a RO storage container to make more frequent water changes easier. Or I’ll just slowly change the tank to my liquid rock tap water. The angel spent its early years in my tap water and I have SAE in another tank that’s using my tap and they do wonderfully. The scaper in me just hates that tap water, a lot of the stuff plants don’t like it and the algae loves the phosphates my city puts in the tap to combat pipes rusting.

  7. On 2/14/2023 at 9:51 AM, Sleepy said:

    It feels like you have something else going on with the tank I'm also not familiar with the salty shrimp product I personally would use equilibrium that all being said can you post pictures of the tank? I think that would help.

    The pic is actually when I first started the tank. Not much difference just more grown in now.

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  8. Things im wondering. Water parameters; what’s the ph, kh, gh, and nitrates? How often do you water change? You showed a pic of when you first plante what’s it look like now. Looks like a lot of root feeders, but it’s planted in gravel. 
     

    first instinct is the substrate. You could try using root tabs like everyone is saying, but without knowing everything else about the water and what the spots on the plants look like there could be other factors in play here.

  9. At least a few weeks. But really it depends on the tank. How mature is the tank? How much substrate, how many plants/decor? What the bioload/stocking of the tank? Basically anything with surface area in the tank will have bb on it, and substrate is a big part of that. Basically everything going on in the tank will affect the nitrogen cycle.  Ive had mature well planted tanks switch filters in a couple days and be just fine, but that’s a tank that if it had a little less bio load could easily go filter less. 

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  10. I always have to med trio my fish I get from them. But part of that could just be the long trip. Usually a couple look pretty sickly with the sunken in stomach. Never seen any come in with visible ich, but I bottle of ich x goes a loooong way so I always use it anyways. If you’re going to quarantine for 2 weeks it would be smart to just do the antibiotics one week then the parasite/ich the following week. I’ve had most success with doing that.

    • Like 3
  11. Water changes at usually 3-4 weeks. So once a week when I don’t water change I’ll add salty shrimp. 
     

    the salty shrimp I use is shrimp mineral gh/kh +
     

    man pulling all the seiryu would be a complete tear down of the tank. And it’s only been made for six months. Granted everything in it is from old tanks. 
     

    more frequent water changes will be a huge pain. I use a RO system to get my water down from 12/25 kh/gh to 6/12. And at 40 gallons that thing takes forever to do a 50%

  12. Ph right now is 7.5. But thats with the kh at my ideal 6-8. I know the ph will completely crash when the buffer gets low. I figured out I need to add buffer because my Java fern had a huge melt off, that’s when I first found out my tank is using up kh. I didn’t test gh way back then unfortunately. But if the seiryu stone adds kh too then that’s not the reason. 
     

    idk I’m just trying to figure out why my kh is only 6 but gh is 25. I know that gh is way higher than what my angelfish and SAE like. And my SAE loose color in their black stripe when kh gets below 4. I’m guessing when they get pale like that they are stressed.

  13. I’ve got a heavily planted 40 breeder that I’ve been adding salty shrimp to when the kh drops and I don’t need to do a water change. The problem is my gh is actually slowly increasing. I just measured the kh at 6 degrees and gh at 25 degrees. The water from tap is 6 kh / 12 gh. Now it also does have a lot of seiryu stone so I’m wondering if that’s the culprit. Should I just do water changes instead of buffer and just fertilize heavier to get my nitrates where the plants want? My nitrates were only 20 today, but the kh was 4 so I added the salty shrimp. Then for kicks i tested gh and was very surprised at the gh being 25

  14. On 12/31/2022 at 1:34 PM, Patrick_G said:

    There’s  a brand new 8’x30”x24” acrylic tank for $1999 from Tenecor. Stock tanks might also be a good and cheap option. 

     

    Thanks, I haven’t seen this website yet. I really like the looks of it. I might just try to save up and go this route.

  15. On 12/31/2022 at 3:04 PM, gardenman said:

    If you're a pretty competent woodworker then a plywood tank might be a very good option for you. There are countless "how to" videos on plywood tanks on YouTube. Aquarium Domain is currently doing a series of videos on his current 300+ gallon build and has made several tanks of over a thousand gallons using mostly wood as the building material. It's pretty easy stuff and much less expensive than acrylic or glass aquariums.

    I have started to think about a plywood tank as I remember king of diy doing some early in his YouTube career. But the aquascaper in me can’t stand that look. So I’ve also thought about building my own acrylic but I don’t know the best place to source material, or what thickness, or how much euro bracing up top it would need. 

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