Cody000125
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Posts posted by Cody000125
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21 hours ago, GardenStateGoldfish said:
You will be fine as long as you add it in during the water change. The API master test kit will show chloramine when using the ammonia test, thats what I was trying to say but I am not a good writer haha.
depending on how much chloramine is in your tap, you may want to double or triple dose prime when doing the water changes, especially after storms. I have high chloramine in my water and sometimes have noticed extreme distress during water changes after storms since they add extra, I double dose seachem safe with each wc, after storms I triple dose.21 hours ago, Jungle Fan said:Cody000125, as GardenStateGoldfish indicated you should get yourself a print out of your water district's water quality report that will indicate the levels of everything within your tap water. My water district has this available for my area on line for download, and most do today. The only thing my water district did not list was TDS and I got myself a meter for that and I test my water every few months, and also check my TDS meter by getting a reading from distilled water in comparison.
So I ended up calling today, they said that it ranges from 0.3-3.0 and can go up to 4.0. When I first started my fish keeping journey it was 4.0. What would you suggest to dose for prime? Should I always check my ammonia before a water change to get the dosage or should I just do a x3 or x4 dose? What happens if you don't does enough prime for the ppm of chloramine? I assume the chlorine will gas out eventually but could it harm the fish?
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7 minutes ago, GardenStateGoldfish said:
You will be fine as long as you add it in during the water change. The API master test kit will show chloramine when using the ammonia test, thats what I was trying to say but I am not a good writer haha.
depending on how much chloramine is in your tap, you may want to double or triple dose prime when doing the water changes, especially after storms. I have high chloramine in my water and sometimes have noticed extreme distress during water changes after storms since they add extra, I double dose seachem safe with each wc, after storms I triple dose.5 minutes ago, Jungle Fan said:Cody000125, as GardenStateGoldfish indicated you should get yourself a print out of your water district's water quality report that will indicate the levels of everything within your tap water. My water district has this available for my area on line for download, and most do today. The only thing my water district did not list was TDS and I got myself a meter for that and I test my water every few months, and also check my TDS meter by getting a reading from distilled water in comparison.
That makes sense, I've always just been double dosing prime but I will check the water quality report and check! Thank you!
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1 minute ago, GardenStateGoldfish said:
@Cody000125 Are you sure that your water source has ammonia?
I highly suggest looking up your municipalities water source (If your in the US) Chloramine is a popular additive that is really a fish killer, Prime and Seachem safe work well, Chloramine is chlorine bound to ammonia, so a liquid API test kit will show ammonia when chloramine is present. When using a dechlorinator, make sure you use one that binds to both ammonia and chlorine/chloramine, this way when the chloramine is neutralized, the byproduct (ammonia) is also neutralized. Seachem Prime is great for this. When Chloramine is neutralized and the ammonia is also neutralized the byproduct will be Ammonium, which will still read as ammonia with your API liquid test kit however is non toxic.Yes, it reads 1-2ppm with the API master test kit. And I do use prime as my decholinator, but I wasn't sure if when adding my tap water to the tank is it possible that it could hurt my fish before the prime binds to the chloramine/ammonia? I add my prime right when I start filling my tank back up.
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22 minutes ago, Jungle Fan said:
I think some of your questions might be answered in the FAQ on the Seachem Prime product page.
https://www.seachem.com/prime.php
I also use the Python system and generally add the Prime before I add new water, however ammonia has never been a problem but then again I might be able to credit that to my Siporax, sintered glass biological filter media in the filter, and the beneficial bacteria colony filter that is established in the layer of highly porous lava rock in my substrate, as well as plant biomass. After refilling the tank I also add Seachem Stability, and due to my fish and shrimp selection Brightwell Aquatics Blackwater Clear Planted/Shrimp.
I guess I'm not having an ammonia problem per say but I was curious if that 1-2ppm ammonia could hurt my fish before prime is bound to it.
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Hi All,
I have 1-2ppm ammonia in my tap water and I use the python for my water changes so the water goes directly in my tank. As it's going in I add seachem prime right away, will the ammonia still harm the fish, or will prime lock up the ammonia before? I've never had any issues with ammonia spikes and the parameters are always good later in the day or the following day. I'm just wondering if that 1-2ppm of ammonia could stress the fish out before prime locks it up and it's processed by the filter. If anyone else has ammonia in their tap water, what do you do for your water changes? And if anyone has any suggestions that would be great, thank you! -
1 hour ago, Kat_Rigel said:
It looks like you've tried quite an array of things; make sure you are completing the treatments for any of the antibiotics like maracyn. Ex. The package recommends treating with Maracyn for 4 days. Although the Co-op has done their own "med trio" as a kind of blanket treatment, I think that is more for cases where you can't really tell there is anything wrong. At this point you know for sure something is wrong, so make sure you are giving the antibiotics the amount of treatments needed.
I think aquarium salt and increased temperature would be a good thing to try. Aside from the fact that you've already tried quite a few other things, salt can treat both parasites and bacteria. So regardless of what it is it should help. Higher temperature can help parasites "run their course" faster; they live, they have babies, they die, and hopefully your salt treatment will prevent those parasite babies from thriving on your betta.
Usually I give advice like, "but you do what you think is right," but for this I strongly think you should use salt and heat. The Co-op has great instructions, as you probably know:
https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/aquarium-salt-for-sick-fish
Got it, thank you! He's currently back in the quarantine tank again, 10 gallon, and I added some aquarium salt earlier today aswell 🙂 What temperature do you suggest bumping it up to? And do you think it's possible he has gill flukes? I have some prazipro on the way and was going to dose my main tank and quarantine tank.
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7 hours ago, Colu said:
Yes kanaplex is gram negative bacterial treatment I missed that on the list of treatments you used you could Qarantine and treat with aquarium salt 1 table spoon for 2 gallons for 1 week and prazipro other than that not much more I can suggest as maracyn and kanaplex have not worked
Will the red patches go away? Or will I just prevent the spread of more? I've moved him back to the quarantine tank and added some aquarium salt. I'll add the prazipro tomorrow. He seemed to be recovering well in the quarantine tank and his labored breathing picked up when I added him back to the main tank. There currently aren't any other fish in the main tank. I'm not sure what's wrong with my main tank, could the flukes have reproduced and when I added him back in they got into his gills again? I'll be dosing the main tank tomorrow as well just in case.
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2 hours ago, Colu said:
Red patches could be a bacterial infection the raised gill covers could be gill flukes I would treat paracleanse for gill flukes if maracyn has not worked try maracyn2 it could be a gram negative bacterial infection
Hi! I've tried dosing kanaplex, isn't that a gram negative bacterial infection? I also have Prazipro on the way this sunday to try, I have paracleanse as well but I've heard good things about Prazipro. I plan on doing my water change sunday and then starting the Prazipro treatment for the whole tank on monday. Do you have any other suggestions?
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Hi All,
I've been trying to treat my betta for quite a while now but nothing seems to help. My betta has usually been hanging out near the top of the tank recently and has red spots on the top of his head. This all started when I noticed his fins weren't fully growing out. They always seemed okay but would occasionally get a tear in them. First I moved him to a quarantine tank and dosed him with quarantine trio(Maracyn,Ich-X,Paracleanse) since I didn't know the what it was causing the issues. That didn't seem to help that much, so I did more research and someone suggested it could be columnaris so after around a month I tried dosing Kanaplex and Furan-2, again he seemed to be okay but the symptoms didn't improve. I moved him back down to my main tank and noticed he was breathing heavier than up in the quarantine tank. So after doing more research, I'm starting to think it could be flukes? I'll provide pictures but his gills seem to be red and I've read that flukes could cause red spots as well. Also that flukes reproduce which is maybe why he would be breathing harder in my main tank. Could I get someone's opinion on if they think it's gill flukes or what they think it is? And if it is flukes what should I dose? Should I move him back to the quarantine tank and dose there or I've read I should just dose the entire main tank. All that are in my main tank are ramshorn snails, nerites, and my betta. My main tank is a 20 gallon and my quarantine tank is a 10 gallon. Here are my water parameters:
Temp: 80*
pH: 7.2-7.4
Ammonia: 0
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 5-10
KH: ~6-7
And here are some pictures:
I have paraguard on hand which I heard might help with flukes but I've also heard praziquantel is the way to go. Any help would really be appreciated. Thank you
Ammonia in tap - Python water change question
in General Discussion
Posted
No, my tap water had tested 4.0 ppm ammonia, after it's put in the tank my filters handle the ammonia fine even if it's 4ppm ammonia. Lately it's been anywhere from 1-2ppm from the tap. A day later or even later that day it always reads 0. What I was wondering is that if the chloramine is high enough, like 4ppm and there isn't enough prime to bind to all of it could the chlorine harm the fish. And I got an update from seachem themselves, apparently 1 dose of prime is enough to cover 4ppm of chloramine.