WhiteShadow
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Posts posted by WhiteShadow
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Ok can i do like a 10hr full bright then darkness? My light is not fancy to do the ramp up and down outside of its 24/7 mode. I will also do a 50% water change to reduce my nitrates.
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Tank has been setup for years. Plants have been is for a few months.
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No actually my tap water is hard.
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How do I increase micro nutrients? More easy green?
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I purchased some scarlet temple a while back. I sunk into the substrate with a little lead. It was doing fine but now the leaves are curled up and there is green algae on the leaves. I do not have algae anywhere else in the tank that I can see with my naked eyes. I have been using easy green since the beginning and recently added easy iron to the mix. I read that the curled leaves could be due to iron deficiency. Would adding easy carbon get rid of the green algae on the leaves? Also it appears that something is munching on them or they are developing holes. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. My parameters are ammonia: 0 Nitrites:0 Nitrates: 50 PH: 7.4
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hmm good to know.
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So is easy carbon just a algae control product? What does it do for planted tanks besides control algae? Does it supply CO2 in any form that might help plants?
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Thanks!
5 hours ago, Kirsten said:Scarlet temple is a stem plant, so a little different from java fern, which feeds entirely from the water column. Unlike epiphytes like java fern or anubias which send out horizontal rhizomes, a stem plant like this grows vertically, the bottom parts often rotting off while the upper parts send out roots and find a new home.
So I wouldn't recommend trying to glue it to anything. Most likely it'll just rot away, leaving an ugly clump glued to the wood. My best success from stem plants comes from weighing down a small bunch with a lead plant weight, then let it hover at the top of the substrate. If it wants to put down roots, it can, but it can still feed from the water column along its length.
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Can I treat scarlet temple like Java fern and glue its roots to driftwood? Do I have to plant the roots into substrate? It seems to be a water column feeding plant primarily like Java fern.
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Well I am saddened to report that I lost the battle against ich/velvet. It took all three of my EBA. I tried everything I could think of nothing seemed to help, ichx and cupramine had no effect. They fought a brave fight and tried as hard as I did to beat it, but in the end it was just too much. RIP EBAs
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Hey all so I am pretty sure I have velvet in my tank. Bright light revealed patches of copper colored areas on all fishes( tiger barbs and BNPlecos) in tank and they are flashing all the time. I know that covering the tank and blocking all light is helpful to eradicate velvet but how long can the plants be in total darkness. I have some plants in the tank Anubis and Java Ferns.. I am using cupramine and raising the temp to 85 to treat the tank and fish. I have added air stones to the tank to keep the O2 levels boosted. Do i need to keep the tank covered in order to beat the velvet or will the meds and raised temps be enough?? All other tank parameters are in excellent range no ammonia, nitrates and minimal nitrites. Is there anything I am not doing that I should be doing? This is my first battle with velvet.
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I will move it closer to the sponge, thanks
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Hello All. I set up a 10 gallon quarantine tank with only a sponge filter and a heater in it. The heater is not heating up the water to the set temperature, It goes on for a min then turns off. I think it is sensing the heated water right around it and not staying on long enough to heat the 10gallon aquarium. It is a brand new Oase Heatup 50. How do I get water flow around the heater with only a sponge filter? Will the sponge filter be enough flow to get the heater to work properly?
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I have my tank at 81 degrees but it looks like the white spots are even worse than they were before. I see alot on its body when it turns in the water when his side is facing me they are hard to see due to his coloration.
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I did not know it breaks down like that. Thanks
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They seem to be acting normal. Should i keep doing partial water changes and adding more ichx every day? I have about five days worth in the tank already. How much is too much? I don't think that the spots are changing everyday. I am not seeing any other white spots on any other fish in the tank, isn't that weird that ich hasn't found any of them?
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There are three Electric Blue Acara that have it some worse than others.
PARAMETERS:
NH3/NH4= maybe .5 had to tell with test strips, have new master test kit on its way.
NO2=0
NO3=20ppm
They have been acting normal and eating normally as well.
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Hello all
I have not seen this before and need help before it kills my fish. I thought it was Ick but it has not responded to IchX, been treating for 5+ days. I also added maracyn to the water thinking it was bacterial, it has been two days on maracyn no improvement. Have any of you seen this before and can tell me how to get rid of it. It is only on my electric Blue Acaras. I tried to get the best picture I could, it is alot of tiny white dots on fins of fish. I do not see any of this on my tiger barbs or bristle nose plecos.
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I am wondering which is better? Maracyn treats gram positive, but Maracyn 2 is good for both positive and negative. Wouldn't it be better to treat for both types of bacteria? I am going to set up a quarantine tank so there is not active infection but as a precaution wouldn't Maracyn 2 treat what Maracyn does anyway plus the gram negative as well?
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I am wondering if the canister filters that are sold on ebay are any good? They seem just like unbranded filters that would be sold for alot more once the final name gets stamped on it. Has Corey ever done a review of these types?
For example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aquarium-Canister-Filter-3-Stage-265-GPH-FREE-MEDIA-Up-to-75-Gal-Fish-Tank/264044944425?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3d7a4e1c29:g:sFEAAOSw2ihf~RYO&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkXKoKcbeZcOrOku%252BoOBl%252BSyFiCz%252Bk3x4hHuqW2SxjOWNw4QY%252BFRR6MlchXpvC7LXhJ%252BUWwai5WsXJMcIWm7NTeAr6YuygSxepqF1cWOGroNeFoomcRTXRvQus4RPvCgM9oZD3mz5ugoRJhbnhPYpv4n1uFAf5mY1xl0o0aJUOUrMJbzPSVMKeBpIX1pzALKLZlmtYX%252BaWjTpYdDYlzs5dLnqLTwUl3pmS2SNpxNZWQpolXknu5jrrdcrVq1IDoye2MeAnJV51UhoG0WkoxJp6gzzMFhHcTZ6wbGgKOisYSM95s%252FqU71b2xF3Gs5RuJJ3mdyN%252BGXINiYm4EepsekuJWhITjlqHufYvE8UhaP9vtW3KqnaVDebHtlCaRQ9qXPeX6AB0ayjtgj1EPCcVEEdliBXhUWKxKTtgsr%252BL8ZTYZLmk0lwt1adeDl0IsHZqG1mlbZnCIYId8I5rgOP0Fdz2W9EWv5LBuZO7FRgoWjSd7amSZUI%252B3kyfxDqHEzA0b79aQNwuNm7ZTNQWHpk8Ryc7sTd%252Ft%252FW8VSxDjdQejoxTzMTEiRIo4hLOQ05igH4tlvm2487wF5dbWeb0ro5LOEFcazwsgWWfyLOjJMa8uFP2nn9j0ieIgubgKJEfFf3w5g%252B9a2tTYTBUPZY8F2dz%252FCujv1zwQ1wbtWr2OyB%252B8Ow2t0sm6f96VoF81lThOR9WRQwNZCVQPmTtDE9uKAFoyJLq6dL57hQCPTdh5N4LGW6eQ4kpc0mjBZi1aiiKBugWEIyYsBOG4FW8bEsorFwKFM5VWA%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A264044944425c3bf2ff4a8404d3185d258c47cb8246d%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524
Smaller brine shrimp hatchery??
in General Discussion
Posted
I know that aquarium coop recommends and sells the Ziss brine shrimp hatchery. I would totally but one if I had room for it. I am wondering if anyone can recommend a smaller hatchery setup. I have a 30gal and a 10gal aquarium and very little room for a hatchery setup. I would probably never need to hatch more than a quarter teaspoon at a time. It seems that when I see someone using the ziss hatcher it is mounted on a wall or something. If I used the base that it comes with it is still taking up a lot of real estate. Is there one that only uses like a couple cups of water and has a way smaller footprint?