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ILikeFish

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Posts posted by ILikeFish

  1. On 6/17/2022 at 11:37 AM, BigJ said:

    You might be a NERM if you go fishing with a coworker and are more exited about the possibility of finding drift wood than catching fish.

    Had the opportunity to go fishing with a FLW bass fishing pro, we spent more time talking about mosquito fish than bass.

    • Haha 3
  2. My favorite videos from you lately have definitely been more on the business side, I think you have a very interesting perspective on the live animal business as a whole, focusing on the people as much as you focus on the animals, keying in on fish keeps me engaged as its something I can relate to. When I first found your channel, I was a novice fish keeper and the list videos, specific issue focused videos, and care guides were invaluable to me. Overall, I will watch anything you put out there regardless of who it is targeted at because there is always something new for me to pick up or learn from.

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  3. It is hard to say how much exactly to dose when. What I would recommend is that you start with one pump per 10 gallons, see how the plants react. If you are happy with the tank and the growth rate then one pump is your dose. If you want the plants to grow more, you can test to see what is limiting them, my guess based on your description would be that the lighting is going to be your biggest limiting factor. Growing aquarium plants is all about making one small change and seeing how the plants react over the next 2-4 weeks. It is important that you only change one thing at a time so that way you know what the impact of that one thing is. Also important to remember is that as your plants grow larger/more dense, you will need more fertilizer to keep them growing. The one pump per 10 gallons you are currently doing may work, but when you have double the plant mass, you will most likely find you need double the fertilizer.

    • Thanks 1
  4. Update, 

     

    I purchased a liquid test for chlorine and tested the tanks, the test I bought, a pool test, was not able to detect any chlorine in the system. I am still open to the idea of that being the problem, but I am not sure thats exactly what our issue is. It aeration makes sense that it would be an issue, I will see about adding air stones to the sumps to increase oxygen content in the tanks. Will report back with any updates.

  5. On 4/24/2022 at 2:21 PM, modified lung said:

    Your water probably has a CO2 problem. It's coming in from the tap at somewhere between 9–14 mg/L (2k–3k% saturation) and degassing over night to 2 mg/L (400-500% saturation, normal) which is why the pH raises.

    That's usually not enough CO2 to kill fish so there's probably multiple chronic problems stacking on each other if you're seeing mortality. If there's high levels of CO2 coming in, there might be other things coming in with it that causing the mortality instead.

    What are your other parameters? Are you using groundwater? Does your facility have a degassing tower or tank? Do you have a TGP meter? What kind of fish? Have you seen any redness or burst capillaries on your fish?

    Thanks for the reply. 

    There isnt any CO2 being injected into the tanks. Other parameters are 

    Ammonia: 0

    Nitrite: 0 

    Nitrate: 0 

    Chlorine: 0 ( as tested by tetra test strips) 

    Water comes in from the tap from the city. There is no degassing tower or tank. I don't notice any redness or burst capillaries, however from time to time I do notice some drooping tails. 

    I am not sure what a TGP meter is. 

    On 4/24/2022 at 1:23 PM, Wrencher_Scott said:

    I'm assuming you are talking only freshwater cause you mentioned auto water changers.

    All fish are good at 8.2 and the kH doesn't matter. Also PH can swing big time during the day.

    I would question the test you use, they are notoriously inaccurate. I think you are barking up the wrong tree here anyway. 

    What do you use for aeration? What about tap water chlorine removal? If you have carbon filter on the tap water they don't last forever. UV lamps don't last either. 

    My first thought would be biofiltering if all else is working (mainly chlorine and chloramine removal), is there enough, is part of the system not working? Is it setup with sumps? 

    How about temps? it's not that important but extremes are bad of course. 78 F would be a great temp for a large system and most all fish. 

    Yes, the tanks are freshwater. I agree that the ph at 8.2 isn't necessarily a problem but a symptom of a bigger issue. As far as aeration, we do not do anything special there, tap water chlorine is removed via degassing in the sump prior to being pumped up into the tanks. We change the carbon filters once monthly and the UV lamps get changed 2 times a year, every 6 months. Specifically, the tanks are Marineland commercial systems. We do a constant temp of 76 across the board. I find that hardier fish are able to survive, however most tetras, mollies, etc. are not doing as well. I have variatus and zebra danios that have currently been living in there for about a month. African cichlids are also loving it

  6. Hi, 

    I’m in charge of a commercial fish system at work. These systems run auto water changers, UV sterilizers, etc. the water also goes through a water softener prior to entering the tanks. Out of the tap, the water is between 7.4 and 7.6. After 24 hours in the tanks, it climbs all the way to 8.2 or higher. 

    Just this morning, I tested ph at 8.2 and kH at 10dkh. I am curious if anybody had any idea what could be causing this. It is impacting our livestock with higher than normal mortality rates.

    I haven’t tried any chemical solutions yet, but I’d consider anything at this point.

    Any help would be much appreciated

  7. On 4/10/2022 at 11:37 AM, Guppysnail said:

    The only thing I know about zeolite is it supposedly strips calcium and possibly other things from the water. I looked into it a touch but abandoned it due to my large snail population and the calcium thing. Doesn’t answer your question but I thought it worth mentioning for you to look into. 

    I appreciate the reply, I’m not planning snails or shrimp in the tank I’m setting up, so calcium absorption shouldn’t be too big of a problem. I could always supplement it if needed

  8. Recently, I’ve been working on building a sump and it’s finally come time to buy the filter media. I’m going to use mostly sponge, but I was curious about using a zeolite material in place of something like ceramic rings or bio balls.
    I’ve read lots about zeolites and understand they act as a magnet trapping ammonia and soluble metals. Due to their incredibly large surface area, I was wondering if this would be a cheaper alternative to ceramic rings. 
     

    As I understand it, zeolites trap ammonia for a period of time before needing to be replaced or recharged. What if I didn’t replace or recharge the zeolite and used it to grow BB. Would this work long term the way it makes sense in my head? Does anybody have any experience with anything like this?

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