Ericka Ketchum
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Posts posted by Ericka Ketchum
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On 1/29/2024 at 7:15 PM, Colu said:
Has your hardness increased recently or your pH change also it can take four treatments two weeks apart to treat flukes with praziquantel the liquid form found in prazipro is more effective
No, hardness and ph have been steady from day one. Is prazipro safe for shrimp, snails and scaleless fish? If so, do you think it would be worth treating a round with that?
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On 1/29/2024 at 6:35 PM, Colu said:
It's possible it's caused by excessive hardness in your water that can cause flashing am not seeing any symptoms other than flashing that would say you could be dealing with flukes and fact its affecting both tanks would learn towards something in your water being the causing
Even if it just started? My water has been this hard the whole time. I also have 2 other tanks and those fush arent having issues.
If it was flukes, would the three treatments have gotten rid of them? Or is there a stronger med for that?
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On 1/29/2024 at 4:35 PM, Colu said:
Any rapid breathing hanging out near the surface lethargy visible damage to the scales are they eating ok can you post a picture of some of the fish that are flashing the most what type of fish are in the tank @Ericka Ketchum
No rapid breathing or lethargy. Swimming normally, except for the flashing sometimes, (once in a great while, a fish will headshake or make a quick irratic swim burst). Then all normal. No visual issues or damage to any fish. Eating is all normal.
There are two tanks, one has a betta, honey gourami, siames algae eater, hillstream loach, neon tetras, porkchop rasboras, otocinclus, amano shrimp and snails. This time around Its been mostly the SAE, but saw an oto and the hillstream loach do it yesterday.
The other has congo tetras, rosy barbs, albino corydora, peacock eel, otocinclus, kuhli loaches, wood shrimp, and snails. I notice the barbs doing the most, but saw the corycat do it today.
Water parameters on this tank are the same as the other. Also stable, no changes.
I did cross contaminate a lot so ive been treating both tanks.
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Hello,
I have a heavily planted community tank. It has been established for 9 months. Water parameters are stable at:
Ph 7.6- 7.8
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 30-40Hardness hard 300+
Buffer high
Temp 75 degrees
I change roughly 15 to 20% water every 2- 3 weeks or so, testing water with aquarium coop multi strips and Api master test kit (for comparisons) weekly.
About two months ago, I noticed a fish flashing repeatedly a few times every hour, a few days later more fish started. After researching a bit, I figured it was flukes so I treated with paracleanse. The issue went away for a couple weeks, then slowly returned. I read I may have to treat 2- 3 rounds, so I treated a second round with paracleanse. Issue resolved for a week, then some flashing started again. I waited the two week period from the last dose and treated a third time with paracleanse. Today was day 5 of the treatment, and I just did the 15% water change. A few fish were already flashing, and some were flashing throughout this last treatment.
Is this not flukes? What else could it be? If it is flukes, is there a stronger treatment? There are zero visual issues or signs of disease. I also have shrimp, snails, and scaleless fish, so it needs to be safe for all.
Also, not sure if it matters but, after the 2nd round of paracleanse, my betta had a tear in his fin, so I treated with maracyn. Since I had just treated with paracleanse, I'm not sure it had an effect on the flashing since it came back anyway.
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On 1/28/2024 at 10:01 PM, nabokovfan87 said:
What fish? pH can cause flashing.
A lot of loaches could flash when they get into higher pH like that. Is it loaches?
Lastly, can you test gh, kh, and ph in the tank and your tap water? Maybe they just cleaned the pipes as well and that caused some issues?I tested my tap when I started the tank, as well as every few months. The tap water has not changed.
They all used to be in ph 8.0- 8.2 with no issues, when I started the tank. I rescaped my tank with fluval stratum 4 months ago, which brought the ph down.
The gh, kh and ph have stayed the same (noted above) since I rescaped. Before I rescaped, the only difference was the ph was higher, but they all did well.
I have a betta, honey gourami, neon tetras, porkchop rasboras, a siamese algae eater, a hillstream loach, wood shrimp and snails. The loach is the one I see it doing the least.
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Hello,
I have a highly planted community tank. It has been established for 9 months. Water parameters are stable at:
Ph 7.6- 7.8
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 30-40Hardness hard 300+
Buffer high
Temp 75 degrees
I change roughly 15 to 20% water every 2- 3 weeks or so, testing water with aquarium coop multi strips and Api master test kit (for comparisons) weekly.
About two months ago, I noticed a fish flashing repeatedly a few times every hour, a few days later more fish started. After researching a bit, I figured it was flukes so I treated with paracleanse. The issue went away for a couple weeks, then slowly returned. I read I may have to treat 2- 3 rounds, so I treated a second round with paracleanse. Issue resolved for a week, then some flashing started again. I waited the two week period from the last dose and treated a third time with paracleanse. Today was day 5 of the treatment, and I just did the 15% water change. A few fish were already flashing, and some were flashing throughout this last treatment.
Is this not flukes? What else could it be? If it is flukes, is there a stronger treatment? There are zero visual issues or signs of disease. I also have shrimp, snails, and scaleless fish, so it needs to be safe for all.
Also, not sure if it matters but, after the 2nd round of paracleanse, my betta had a tear in his fin, so I treated with maracyn. Since I had just treated with paracleanse, I'm not sure it had an effect on the flashing since it came back anyway.
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On 12/18/2023 at 7:15 AM, Biotope Biologist said:
I wouldn’t attempt it. Larger characins may be peaceful in a large fish community but they are absolute terrors when they are the biggest fish in the tank.
If you are looking for a large peaceful fish that doesn’t need a school I would steer you towards geophagus. Despite their size they are incredibly docile. Only getting mildly aggressive about their nest. But with smaller fish they probably won’t be phased.
geos will move the substrate around though.
Good to know! Thank you so much for the new suggestion. I will look into it.
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On 12/17/2023 at 1:31 PM, Colu said:
The khuli loach might possible end up a snack depending of mouth size when the prochilodus get bigger
That was my thought too... again, they can be moved. Thanks for the input Colu, it was very helpful.
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On 12/17/2023 at 1:08 PM, Colu said:
My experience with big fish if it will fit in there mouth they will eat it if your shrimp are 6in I would say that's less likely
Thanks Colu! I can always move the shrimp to a different tank if needed. But you think the fish would be safe?
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The ramshorns I dont care, but the shrimp get 3 to 6 inches... they will eat that big of a shrimp?
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Hello,
I currently have rosy barbs, congo tetras, a peacock eel, kuhli loaches, peppered corys, 3 otocinclus, a vampire shrimp, a bamboo shrimp, ramshorn snails, a nerite snail and a mystery snail with java and weeping moss, crypts, anubias and water lettuce.
I will be upgrading to a 90 or 125 gallon in a few months and need to know if a flagtail will live peacefully with this group. I have been doing research on this fish, but can't seem to get a straight answer since some of these fish stay smaller.
Thanks for any help.
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On 5/12/2023 at 6:21 PM, madcracked said:
I would keep nitrates to a minimum until you have no amonia or nitrite and the plants are fully established. Your plants are just starting out. The leaves dying are normal. They will melt back and the leaves dying will add to the avail nitrates in the tank.
Thank you so much for the help!!
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I added the root tabs when i got the plants, about 3 weeks ago. They are growing new sprouts, but the ends of the old leaves are dying. From watching a bunch of Aquarium Co Op videos, I came to the conclusion it's because there isn't enough food, since you are correct, the tank is not seasoned.
Do I continue to add more easy green until the nitrates get to 25- 50ppm, or should I wait and only add it weekly?
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Hello All.
After reading this, I believe I have my answer.
To be sure, here is my issue. I set up my 29 gallon aquarium about a month ago. I have watched hundreds of aquarium co op videos to help me along. I am in a great spot with the water and fish, but my plants are starving. Water parameters are steady at .25 ammonia, .25 nitrite, 5ppm nitrate and ph 8.0. I also have pretty hard water (which I have not tested directly)
I have 5 plants (a few contortionist val, anubias barteri, westeria, cabomba, and bronze cryptocoryne wendetii). I also have a small angelfish, 10 tetra size fish, a hillstream loach, 2 ghost shrimp and 2 nerite snails. I added root tabs for the root feeders, but I just recieved my easy green today. I added 3 squirts right away. After watching the nitrate video, I added another 3 squirts after I retested 4 hours later, with no change.
Do I keep adding 3 squirts every 4 hours, until the nitrate level gets between 25- 50ppm? Then wait 3 or 4 days to retest?
I have not tested any other parameters such as phosphate, potassium etc.
Thanks for any help
Flashing Fish, need help
in Diseases
Posted
Ok, might as well try the last dose at this point. If it continues, I will look down other avenues. Thank you for the help!