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ashaquabarn

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Posts posted by ashaquabarn

  1. On 6/18/2023 at 8:17 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

    CAE will get very big and will potentially go after everything in the tank. It's happened a lot, but not something I can state firsthand. We've also seen some members on the forum encounter issues with their CAE going after fish.

    Ultimately, CAE won't do anything for algae and despite the name itself, it isn't really going to go after algae.

    https://www.aquatic-gardeners.org/Articles/cyprinid/

     

    I’ve had my CAE in the aquarium for a few years now and it’s stayed around the 5-6 inch mark. It seems to keep to itself mostly but I did notice some aggression when I had a red garra in there. I’ve noticed it doesn’t do much as far as getting rid of algae though. Will Siamese algae eater take care of the BBA? 

  2. On 6/16/2023 at 11:45 PM, Fish Folk said:

    A group of 6-12 Mature Siamese Algae Eaters could help nibble that back. They’re lively, but not aggressive. Just don’t mistake Chinese Algae Eaters or Flying Foxes for them.

     

    I’ve actually already got a Chinese algae eater in there and I also just got two bristle nose plecos to try to help. Would the Siamese algae eaters get along with them? 

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  3. I have an established tank, 180 with some plants in it. The only plants I’ve been able to get to survive in my aquariums are anubius, everything else has died. While living somewhere with a water softener I was able to get jungle Val to thrive but each time I put some in this tank with harder water it slowly gets smaller until it’s completely gone. The black beard algae has been taking over my anubius plants along with some moss in this aquarium. I don’t know what to do to fix this. Someone please help. I really want a beautiful planted tank. I’ve been dosing with the recommended amount of fertilizer as well.

     

    I have uploaded pics of now and the last photo is from when we had a water softener. Any advice is greatly appreciated! 

    one more thing to add, the sand in the new tank is different. I believe it may be a crushed coral of some type and in my previous tank I used pool filter sand. I was going to try replacing my sand with play sand to see if that might help.

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  4. I’ve had no luck with the last batch. I tried sticking a lot of eggs to the wall of the breeder box, doing a methylene blue dip, and spreading all the eggs further apart and removing ones that got fungus immediately. None of them survived that round.
     

    They spawned again today. Can anyone tell if the majority of these are fertile or not??

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  5. On 3/9/2023 at 4:57 PM, Cinnebuns said:

    Is it just the 2 cories?  If so that is why you get a lot of eggs getting fungus. They are infertile. Cories breed best in a reverse trio of 2 males to every female. This is because female will lay enough eggs to tap the males of their sperm. What is likely happening is that the fertile ones are being eaten or otherwise not making it, which is another problem to address, and the others are no fertile because the male cannot keep up. 

    First thing I would do is add more sterbai cory to get at least 6 total but more is better if the tank size allows. Try your best to get more males than female. 

    I agree the hard water is not the issue. I wouldn't change that at all. If they are already spawning in the water then you risk making it worse by changing the water. 

    Methylene blue is an option to prevent fungus spreading but it will not help infertile eggs. It will however save the eggs that are fertile from getting fungus from the infertile eggs. Given you are already doing a breeder box hatching, i kinda advise against using it. There are other things you can do utilizing the method you have already been doing. 

    When I first started breeding my panda cories my first method was what you are doing. Make sure you have a turkey baster. When you place the eggs in the box, try to keep them seperated as best you can. If they are still sticky, stick as many as you can to the walls to utilize space around the box. Daily, or ever 2x a day, check the eggs. Use the turkey baster to remove any that become fuzzy. If any turn white instead of beige, watch them closely. They are most likely, although in my experience not alway, the infertile ones. They are the ones likely to develop fungus. 

    This is a tank, not a box, but this is how I stick the eggs to the side to try to spread them apart. Sorry it was hard to get a good pic but I hope you can see the eggs stuck to the sides and spread out. Some are twins and are 2 right next to each other. I probably should seperate those as well but I've gotten lazy. 

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    If you happen to have neocaridina shrimp you can make this much easier on yourself even. The entire process can be done by just putting some shrimp in the box. They will "nanny" the eggs for you. They clean fungus off of fertile eggs. They will also eat infertile eggs which leaving the fertile ones to hatch. After I switched to using neos my hatching rates sky rocketed!!

    If you have any questions at all feel free!  I will also link 2 thread I started with tons of info about some methods I have done for breeding cories. There are also other methods out there that are 100% viable. This is just a few i have done successfully. 

     

     

     

    That makes a lot of sense! I had actually been wondering if a lot of them were fertile because when I was pulling them I noticed a lot seemed very white rather than transparent. I thought maybe it was because they were newer parents, not realizing there needed to be more males. I know they like to school but before I knew enough about cories I had gotten these two and several peppered ones and the peppered ones all died off. I’ll try getting some more sterbais then! Thank you! That’s super helpful! 
     

    I was leery about using methylene blue anyways, so I would prefer to use the almond leaves or a more natural way like you mentioned. 

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  6. On 3/8/2023 at 10:22 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

    Is this the same testing parameters you get from your tap?  Water softener in the house?

    We don’t have any water softener. I had a rock in there that could have been adding additional hardness so I removed the rock and added more almond leaves alongside a water change. 
     

    here’s a photo of a test strip from water straight from the tap.

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    • Like 1
  7. On 3/8/2023 at 11:13 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

     

    Very good guide.  They usually feel safe to have cover behind them to be able to spawn.  Your tank has the rocks, but not any "cover" so to speak for them in that area. 

    Hopefully that helps and you see some behavior.

    The photos you see are of them in the 180. The setup I have is different in the 20 gallon now where they have a corner of the tank they should feel more comfortable in. I’ll try some adjustments though and see if that works! Thank you for the help and the video! 

    • Like 1
  8. On 3/8/2023 at 10:20 PM, knee said:

    They might not spawn at that temp. You need to raise it above between 82-84

    Okay! ill change out the rock and raise the temp and see if that sparks anything! Thanks!! 

  9. On 3/8/2023 at 10:07 PM, knee said:

    My rams would only spawn on one spot in the tank and it's ALWAYS on the smoothest rock and they prefer it as close to the substrate as possible.

    What temp do you keep them in?

    Okay I’ll try a more flat one. They’re kept at about 78 right now. 

  10. On 3/8/2023 at 9:56 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

    Have you seen Dean's guide on how to breed rams?  They need a flat rock or something to spawn on. 

    cc @knee

    I haven’t but I put a flat black rock in there with fake plants and a cave to give them a corner of the tank to guard

  11. On 3/8/2023 at 9:33 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

    One in the back is female. One up front looks like a male.

    That’s what I was thinking! Any ways I could trigger these guys to spawn? They seemed like they had been wanting to for a few weeks now.

  12. These two had been following each other around my 180 and one of them cleaning off a rock daily. It seemed like mating behavior to me so I moved them into a 20 gallon with two other Bolivian rams to see if they would lay, but nothing has come of it yet. Do they look to both be males or are they mates? 

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  13. On 3/8/2023 at 9:12 PM, DiscusLover said:

    Ah thats the issue, your water hardness. Ph is not an issue at all, I have seen people hatch and raise cory fry in ph of 7.8. You might have to use distilled water or an rodi unit to make the water soft to hatch the eggs. 

    Makes sense! Thanks!!! I knew they liked softer water, but I didn’t realize it was important for hatching. I’ll give that a go

    • Like 1
  14. The water we have here is very hard. I put some almond leaves in to help, but I clearly need to add more. I didn’t realize the ph was so high either. I have attached photos of the tank setup and breeding box, also. Can I use methylene blue in the breeder box? It filters water into the tank and I read that it’s not safe for fish to be in. So I did attempt a dip in it, but I didn’t add it to the breeder box itself. 

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  15. I have a breeding pair of sterbai corydoras who are faithfully breeding weekly. I have been collecting the eggs because if not, the majority of them get eaten. I have left some in the tank to see if they survive and they all usually end up with fungus over them. The ones I have been removing which is between 20-30 each time, I move into a fluval breeding box off their aquarium and I have only had 4 actually hatch. They sadly did not end up surviving because they swam into the divider and get stuck 😞 I have Java moss, and almond leaves in the aquarium, keeping the nitrates at little to nothing and the temp is around 78… Why are the eggs all dying? I have even tried dipping them in methylene blue, but it doesn’t seem to work. Does anyone know what could be going wrong?? Please help! 

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