Melkor
-
Posts
57 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Store
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Profiles
Posts posted by Melkor
-
-
I have 2 tidal 55s for a future 40 gallon breeder project. I plan on having them on the ends, but opposite corners, create a gentle circular flow. Plan on going lidless, but looked into ¼" solid polycarbonate sheet, since I could use a dremel to custom cut it. Multi wall polycarbonate is easier to cut, but isn't the most aesthetically pleasing.
-
I did the opposite once, and drained more than I intended. Thankfully the hose in the tank wasn't all the way at the bottom. This hobby is amazing but has a lot of harsh lessons.
-
1
-
-
Try to find some locally bred ones. Heck, could probably find someone giving away a bunch of offspring!
-
I use a digital meat thermometer. Eventually ill pick up a tds and ph tester that has temp as well as a comparison. I calibrate using this method https://www.thermoworks.com/thermapen101-creating-an-icebath/
-
Not really...unless there was no room to swim lol. But in all seriousness its fine as long as the fish are ok with the flow.
-
2
-
-
Try to find a powerhead that has adjustable flow. That is pretty much your best bet without a canister/HOB. Or you can adjust your BPS, but you will most likely use more co2.
-
1
-
-
Chinese algae eaters can be aggressive as they mature. Siamese algae eaters are pretty chill. But they usually like a school of 3 or more, and at least 40 gallons.
-
2
-
-
I'm a fan of glasgarten mineral junkie bites to supplement minerals. But really any freshwater invertebrate foods will probably be fine. Just don't leave uneaten food too long. Most shrimp keepers recommend pulling food after a few hours(i use borosilicate petri dishes to keep it clean and neat, but amanos are notorious for taking off with food). If they don't seem interested in the food, probably have enough biofilm to graze on. Catappa leaves are great too, leave them till they are skeletal, then put a new one in.
-
1
-
-
Try to avoid adding a ton of chemicals chasing specific water parameters. Your water seems fine, as far as neocaridina or amanos are concerned. The more you swing them the more it stresses livestock and plants. Organic blanched kale and spinach are good calcium vegetables. What do you normally feed your shrimp? Because I've heard shrimp breeders say their ingested mineral intake is more crucial than waterborne minerals.
-
1
-
1
-
-
Can you try a 6 or 8 hour light duration? 12 hours is a long time. Also perhaps splitting up your fertilizer dosing. So one pump is 1ml, use an oral syringe, and do .5ml twice a week, or .14 ml a day (1 divided by 7). This way the plants can intake what they need at a steady pace. The algae doesn't have a huge influx that slowly depletes over a week to take advantage of.
-
1
-
-
I think snails just breed if the water parameters are good, and there is enough food.
-
1
-
-
You do not need to remineralize top off water(whether tap, distilled, or ro/di). Only during water changes, if your livestock and plants need it, and your water source isn't naturally at those levels. Ideally you would want to always top off with 0 tds water. You definitely can lower ph and hardness by using distilled or ro/di water with your tap.
-
1
-
-
Cherry shrimp are not great at cleaning algae. Amano shrimp are definitely the better choice to supplement some snails and or otocinclus.
-
Go over the stand thoroughly, make sure its up to snuff. Definitely a pretty good deal if its intact. If you do get it I second testing it with water outside for preferably 24-48 hours at least.
-
2
-
-
As long as you aren't scrubbing the substrate or removing it, I don't see it harming anything. I would definitely wait on adding shrimp of any sort until you are cycled, and the tank matures some.
-
1
-
-
On 8/1/2022 at 5:01 PM, Latishcia said:
My first tank that I cycled. I used fish food and Fritz 7, took 35 days to be cycled. My second tank I'm using Dr. Tim ammonia and there are beneficial bacteria. I already have nitrates on the first week. For me Dr. Tim's...
Fritz zyme is their unrefrigerated shelf stable line. The turbostart is the live refrigerated line(and highly concentrated). But I have heard good things about dr timms one and only.
-
1
-
-
I do like the fluval 3.0s, the app is pretty nice. Heard the finnex 24/7 are solid too. I just picked up 4 jc&p full spectrum lights for some shrimp breeding tanks. Will have to see how I like them over time, Bentley Pascoe reviewed them favorably. Definitely looking forward to seeing the reviews on the ACO lights coming soonish. I am slowly piecing together my first high tech tank. Been eyeing the twinstar s series, or chihiros wrgb pro 2s for that build.
-
Most of the shelf stable ones that are supposed to be kept at room temperature, generally work to some degree. The ones that are recommended to be transported and stored refrigerated, those work much, much better. So fritz turbostart and dr timms one and only. But nothing beats cycled media if you can get some.
-
2
-
-
Use airline tubing to make a corral around your HOB. So the outflow will hopefully go under the airline, and any air bubbles will stay away from the opening. Actually, this was recommended on i believe girl talks fish youtube channel https://www.etsy.com/listing/1080391207/aquarium-floating-plant-corral-including?click_key=971ebb35a2940b7903389448f96c547bfe6231e2%3A1080391207&click_sum=8b7c0020&ref=shop_home_active_1&crt=1. But just some airline tubing sealed in a circle or at ends connected to a suction cup works. Edit: here's the video I saw
-
Just make sure there is good flow from the bottom to the surface(no dead zones). The surface should have good agitation as well. When I had a betta in my shrimp tank, my cherries did ok, but were not happy with the high Temps. I had a fairly high occurrence of escapees that didn't appreciate the high temperature(they still bred fine). Now the tank is low 70s, and the shrimp are very active, and no more escape attempts.
-
1
-
-
You could, albeit its way overkill. I would highly recommend getting a temperature controller like an inkbird. Its an extra level of safety should the heater fail. But its better to have smaller heaters, and multiple smaller ones for larger tanks. So if one fails it takes a long time to cook the tank, and you have a better chance of catching it. That and a controller is pretty safe. Try and find a 25w heater if possible though.
-
1
-
-
The ones that are shelf stable and not refrigerated, I feel aren't quite reliable. The refrigerated ones like dr timms and turbo start, have a short shelf life. However they seem to genuinely work...if they are kept kept cool the whole time. Nothing will beat cycled media, but if you don't have any these products can be helpful.
-
Serpa designs made a tub video last week. He built a really nice facade around it.
-
1
-
-
Looks like shrimp eggs to me. Females will drop them if stressed. Any big changes to the tank recently?
Shrimp nets
in General Discussion
Posted
I have been using one of these for almost 2 years. Actually bought 3 more this week to have one for each tank. Hasn't rusted, ripped, or broken. Good net.