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Pedrofisk fishroom build journal


pedrofisk
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1 minute ago, pedrofisk said:

Thanks! The sump pump manufacturer strongly recommends it so I figure I better for warranty reasons. There does seem to be standing water in the vertical section of the pipe once it shuts off. I think the check valve will help keep it from turning on/off repeatedly. The path from the pump to the sink is a highly sub-optimal so it is what it is.

Oh, right. If there's water in the bucket you may create an air pocket. Which could bubble back up when it tries to start up again.

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17 hours ago, Bill Smith said:

 

Question: What's the purpose of a check valve in the bucket? You're not expecting a vertical backflow there, are you?

A lot of sump pumps come with a check valve installed or to install. It will keep the water that is in the piping from backflowing back into your sump crock when the pump shuts off. For example, mine in my basement has approximately 8 feet of 1.5" pvc pipe that is vertical, before going through the wall and outside. When the pump shuts off, all the water that is in at least the vertical part would backflow down into the sump crock, which would cause the pump to cycle on/off more frequently. 

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10 hours ago, josh world said:

looking good where did you get that check valve from though

Supplyhouse.com

I did a lot of research for pvc fitting online retailors and they had the best deals and good customer service. I got everything except the pipe from them. My local big box almost never had what I needed.

I don't think posting their link is a conflict of the forum policy as thier is no overlap in products with the Coop but moderators please let me know.

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  • 4 weeks later...
11 hours ago, pedrofisk said:

This weekend I drilled most of the 10g aquariums. Turns out it really is easy after all.

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If you thought ten gallons were easy to drill, wait until you drill larger tanks with thicker glass. I hate drilling 10 gallons because the glass is so thin, cracks easier. Be careful when installing bulkheads, don't overtighten. 

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On 12/30/2020 at 2:48 PM, pedrofisk said:

Thanks! The sump pump manufacturer strongly recommends it so I figure I better for warranty reasons. There does seem to be standing water in the vertical section of the pipe once it shuts off. I think the check valve will help keep it from turning on/off repeatedly. The path from the pump to the sink is a highly sub-optimal so it is what it is.

I have a check valve on my sump setup as well, but mine is one that threads directly onto the sump (it's made by the sump manufacturer -- think I got it at Home Depot).

I put one on for the same reason, I don't want the water that's in the vertical pipe (8' foot of it) to dump back down into the basin, as this will cause the sump to run more frequently. 

There's always standing water in that vertical run of pipe, but it's never caused me an issue.

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  • 4 months later...
On 12/30/2020 at 10:47 AM, pedrofisk said:

Step by step progress. I am trying to do a big push during this, the slowest week of the year. Yesterday I got the fill system mostly done from the thermostatic valve, through the filter to the manifold. The thermostatic mixing valve is on a temp mount I need to redo. I need to finish gluing the mainfold and add more support brackets. The OXO meat thermometer is reading the water as 3-4 degrees hotter than my infrared thermometer does so I'll have to figure that out. The pressure gauge works great and was only $3.45. I also finished the drain sump pump with a fancier check valve and got it all glued up.

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How long is the probe on the thermometer? Of it does not extend all the way into or past the T, it may not be reading a representative temperature of the water, so I'd trust your infrared thermometer over that if that's the case. If not,  you can do a 2 point calibration check with ice water and boiling water assuming it reads down and up to those temperatures. You can see which is more accurate then.

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