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Could anyone help ID what may be wrong with new False Julii Corydoras & Otto?


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Hi there. I have a few tanks, back in November I started up a new 29g planted tank. I moved 3 ottos from my 10g to the 29g. Then added 3 false julii from my 20g to the 29g, along with 4 molly fry (temporarily to grow out). I wanted to primarily dedicate this tank as a "Catfish Tank." The tank looked a bit lonely. The beginning of January I ordered: 1 Baby Female Super Red BN Pleco. 3 Ottocinculus. 4 more False Julii Corydoras. 1 Otto & 1 Cory died right away - first fish deaths I had in over a year. The 2cd Otto developed fungus & also died. 

I have 1 Otto & 3 cories left from my online order. I Quarantined them for 3.7 weeks with no signs of disease. I added them to the 29g.

Now im starting to get concerned. They have been in the 29g for almost 1 month and have not colored up. The 3 newer cories huddle together in a back corner, sometimes with clamped fins, I also see them rubbing against decorations and rocks - which is normally a sign of stress right?

The 3 older cories are 2 females 1 male, one has a deformity she was born with on her side, but I've had them for 1 year almost since they were babies, they eat healthy, play, swim, very active, sift through sand, or clean plants, I feed them a healthy varied diet. They are very dark in color, I was trying to get a couple photos for comparisons. When the older cories are next to the newer- the color difference is HUGE. The older ones keep trying to coax the newer ones out to swim & play, the newer ones will join for a moment & then go right back to hiding. Also the 1 newer Otto left has been tail clamping.

I added lots of plants, used sand, and made this tank as Corydora Friendly as I could. I can't see any fungus or white spots, could there be something bacterial or parasitic wrong with them that I cannot physically see?

Entire Stocking of Tank:

1 Baby BN Pleco

4 Ottocinculus (3 older -1 new)

6 False Julii Corydoras (3 old - 3 new)

4 molly fry

Various Plants & 20 Bladder Snails

Ammonia: 0ppm   Nitrates: under 20ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Chlorine: 0ppm.  GH:200-300ppm.  Alkalinity(KH) 60ppm PH: 7.6-7.8 (plant fluctuations) Temp 76°-78° 

The last 2 photos of are my older Cories for color comparison.








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Thank you for the Reply. On hand i have: 

FRITZ maracyn 8ct

Fritz Paraclense 10Ct

API Aquarium Salt

2 boxes Jungle Fungus Clear Fizz Tabs

API Furan-2 10 packets

Lifeguard all in one (unsafe for scalesss fish)

Seachem KanaPlex 5g

Seachem Metroplex 5g

Panacur-C (for hydra)

Microbe-Lift Herbtana & Artemis (herbal remedies petco sold me on buying)

Will any of these work and are also okay to dose ALL fish in tank?

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12 minutes ago, Colu said:

I would recommend Paracleanse for treatment of parasties you will have to do 2-3 courses of treatment 2weeks apart

Thank you. I have the smaller packet of Paraclense - because when I use meds, I normally remove the fish & use meds in a 5 gal. But in this case there's too many fish for 5gal. The ammonia would skyrocket. So I will start treatment today. & also order more for the 2week treatment then. Thank you fir the reply. I'll have to reread instructions. I know i usually have to remove carbon, but can I leave my plants in there while dosing? I don't want to kill any plants by mistake.

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On 3/3/2021 at 8:03 AM, Colu said:

Remove your carbon Paracleanse won't harm plants I have used in my planted tank had no problems

Hey, I talked to another well known member about this (on Fishlore) they said it may be stress causing these symptoms, gave me advice on not administering meds JUST yet, said to do WC every other day, add some more plants offering  hiding & cover for the cories, and adjust my lighting, to wait on the meds & observe to see if they improve. 

This morning I noticed 1/3 new cories looks better- is coloring up, growing larger, and schooling with the elder cories.

The other two new ones look bad. One had a hard time eating, after closer inspection, it seems the barbells have been injured or eroded, very pale, thin- probably from lack of food.

The 3rd has some sort of infection. Its a fuzzy white growth on the underside. Pale still. But more active than the other sick Cory.

What would be advisable to do Now with these new symptoms? Should I treat for a bacterial infection? I have not started the parasite meds yet.

I will include photos of each of the sick cories.




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9 hours ago, joseph lambeth said:

do you still have carbon filters?

Do I still have carbon filters? As in are my carbon still in the filter? I have a large HOB Aqueon Filter, but it's modified. I added sponges, floss, intake sponge, and 2 carbon  pad inserts. I have not removed them yet. But if I start MARACYN treatment I will.

2 hours ago, Colu said:

Damage barbel is usually caused by poor water quality if its looking really bad i would treat with maracyn 

I try to keep water quality best I can, the parameters stay pretty stable, no crazy fluctuations. He was at a hatchery, shipped to me, in QT for a month, then added to the 29g tank. This 29g I started in November & very slowly added fish, only a few at a time. I do have 2 boxes of Maracyn. Can I do a WC before starting it? It says 1 packet per 10g. 3 packets? Or less because its 29g & not 30g.

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On 3/7/2021 at 9:58 AM, Colu said:

I treat it like it's a 30 and put 3packets in

I dosed yesterday with maracyn before work. Came home, checked on fish. They seemed okay. Woke up this morning & the 1 sickish-looking Otto had died. I have some tiny crypts & Java fern plantlets in a little suction cup box- to grow out, and all the roots are covered in white fuzzy stuff. Had to turn my sponge filter & air stone pressure down, because after adding maracyn I had froth type bubbles on the surface.

Is this normal? The froth & white plant roots. Only plants up top were effected none down bottom.




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I have never had it happen on my plants when treating it could the meds cause the affected the plant roots froth on surface is caused by the med itnwill good away on it own what symptoms was the Otto showing be it died 

Edited by Colu
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6 minutes ago, Colu said:

I have never had it happen on my plants when treating it could the meds cause the affected the plant roots froth on is caused by the med i will good away on it own what symptoms was the Otto showing be it died 

He was 1 of 3 I ordered online. They didn't arrive in very good condition. 1 Otto died right off. The 2cd had a white dot on snout- then died with a fuzzy white infection on snout. The 3rd had symptoms of fin clamping. He ate his food fine, seemed responsive, his coloring was a bit odd- it was yellowy green instead of dark green like the other ottos. He looked okay when I checked on him last night, besides the occasional fin/tail clamping. But was dead next to sponge filter this morning.

Edited by MollyMomma
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9 minutes ago, Colu said:

You can get delayed mortality syndrome were all the stress from getting netted and bagged transported can cause them to die weeks later

Aw that's too bad. I know ottos can be hard to acclimate- but it seems once they are- they can be pretty Hardy. I have 3 older ottos i've had for several months. Let me see if I can get a better photo of the other 2 corydora s in question.

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1 minute ago, Colu said:

I would continue to treat with maracyn you might have to do two courses of treatment before you start to see improvement

Okay, thank you. This is the first time I have ever really had to use medications & they make me nervous. 

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I added 2cd Dose of MARACYN last night. Today is Day 3. Woke up & no fish died this morning. But the Cory who's Anal fin had eroded- well now his other fins are doing this too. On one side it looks Blood Red & is fuzzy white. Is it fin rot or something?


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Red patches are sign of bacterial infection I can't see the white fuzz in the picture it could a secondary fungal infection if you have ich x that treats some types of fungus and it can be used with maracyn  it takes time for the meds to work he won't get better over night it might take a week or two before he starts to show improvement

Edited by Colu
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