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Urgent help!


Taco Playz
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Beth could be acting this way for several reasons.

First of all, she might be stressed, so that she stays in one place and doesn't move as much. If you're other fish in the tank are peaceful and not aggressive, I don't think this could be the case. Another cause could be stress from fluctuating water parameters/temperature, so I would check those as well just in case.

Another reason why Beth might be acting like this is because she may have some sort of disease/parasite. My pearl gourami stayed still for an entire day and did not eat or interact at all with me when he had internal parasites. A day later, he showed signs of eating and interaction a lot more, so you might want to treat them with API General Cure or something similar if you find something is wrong (if you see parasites, fish doesn't eat, fish is flashing/rubbing against the sides/gravel, etc.).

I am a newer fishkeeper, so I don't really know too much about what could be causing this. Honestly, it could really be any disease or illness, so I would wait for a more experienced hobbyist to come around this post. Anyway, I hope my advice could help, and I hope Beth gets better!

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I haven’t added any fish in about 2 months. I’ll go check my parameters now. About a month ago I had a Cory that did the same thing but ended up dying and I never figured out what happened. Thanks @CorydorasEthan for your insight I’m going to check my parameters I have been dealing with algae problems so idk if that has to do anything with it but I doubt it.

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The ph seems really high, I have some imagitarium ph reducer but I heard that it isn’t really good for the fish 

0 Ammonia 

0 Nitrite 

over 7.6 ph 

This is also very strange my Nitrate is at 0, I have so much algae in my tank it’s insane I don’t think that’s right.

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Test your tap water as well with the same test. 7.6pH is high for a corydora that prefers acidic water. What other fish do you have in the tank and do they appear to be showing signs of stress? I would think a pH spike would cause other fish to be exhibiting stress behaviors.

 

I forget do the API master kits come with a calibration solution? This is usually a solution that has exactly 7.0pH so you can make sure your test kit hasn't been fouled or contaminated

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Yeah it's your tap that is the issue here. Do you live in a mineral rich environment? I'm thinking states like Colorado, Montana, Utah, etc. Mineral rich tap will dry with a chalky white residue left behind. 

 

You are at about a ~7.4pH it seems and you ideally want to be at about a 6.0-6.5. As @Colu suggested organics will help produce acidic conditions. 

 

But remember pH is on a logarithmic scale dropping one whole point of pH is a 10x order of magnitude. What I would advise in this case is find a source of water that is lower in pH to about neutral (7.0). Rainwater, water from an established acidic tank, springwater. Do not use distilled water. Then you will want to use that for your water changes for about a week or 2. Doing small water changes of about (5-10%) every couple days will slowly reduce pH down to the desired acidic conditions. Long term you will want to stop using your tap water and find an alternate source.

 

As for pH alters. I used to sell them for years. It's not really right for everyone's situation and in most cases is just an expensive gimick. All it does is bind free OH- or H+ either causing the pH to go up or go down. It will only harm fish if you apply it to the tank and cause huge swings in pH. It is best used on tap water before the water change. If you are dead set on using your tap water I would test the gH and kH as well. Any mineral or carbonate buffers will cause your pH reducer to be less effective and therefore more expensive in the long term.

 

Free water chemistry lessons for all 😁

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3 hours ago, Biotope Biologist said:

Yeah it's your tap that is the issue here. Do you live in a mineral rich environment? I'm thinking states like Colorado, Montana, Utah, etc. Mineral rich tap will dry with a chalky white residue left behind. 

 

You are at about a ~7.4pH it seems and you ideally want to be at about a 6.0-6.5. As @Colu suggested organics will help produce acidic conditions. 

 

But remember pH is on a logarithmic scale dropping one whole point of pH is a 10x order of magnitude. What I would advise in this case is find a source of water that is lower in pH to about neutral (7.0). Rainwater, water from an established acidic tank, springwater. Do not use distilled water. Then you will want to use that for your water changes for about a week or 2. Doing small water changes of about (5-10%) every couple days will slowly reduce pH down to the desired acidic conditions. Long term you will want to stop using your tap water and find an alternate source.

 

As for pH alters. I used to sell them for years. It's not really right for everyone's situation and in most cases is just an expensive gimick. All it does is bind free OH- or H+ either causing the pH to go up or go down. It will only harm fish if you apply it to the tank and cause huge swings in pH. It is best used on tap water before the water change. If you are dead set on using your tap water I would test the gH and kH as well. Any mineral or carbonate buffers will cause your pH reducer to be less effective and therefore more expensive in the long term.

 

Free water chemistry lessons for all 😁

 

I live in Kentucky. The tap water faucet has a black like thing that covers it a bit. I do water changes every other week so I don’t think the rainwater or the others will work is there a way to change the ph in the tap water. Thanks by the way the Cory is perfectly fine now swimming around I just want to get the ph better.

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