photographer Professional Photographer here to help

[Master Photographer]

I have 40 years of professional photography experience, graphic design, and art. I’ve lectured internationally, been a college professor, and taught amateurs and professionals. I’m here to help you any way that I can.

I had aquariums growing up, and early in my family life. Now that I’m retired I’m getting back into the hobby.

I’ll be setting up a 75 gallon, heavily planted tank, with a mix of red and green plants. I will run CO2, and exploring a variety of options for both fish and plants. 

I prefer things to be unique and different. I’m drawn to things that allow me to express my creativity.

[Cory]

A great example of a introduction thread. I wouldn't have known you were a photographer. I suppose we'll expect to see some fish photos down the road 😉

[Master Photographer]

I tried to edit my post to add my location, but I’m unable to figure out how to do this. Sooooooo ... I live in Western Tennessee. Greetings! 😊

[Master Photographer]

Cory, I would suspect that to be true, as soon as I get my tank setup. Unfortunately that will not be until my daughter builds her house, since she doesn’t want to sleep with fish. I’ve tried telling her that she should have thought about that before she moved into my office/fishroom! 😂 She and my wife failed to see the humor in my response. 😜

[GingerGraves]

Hi David. We’ve got a lot a TN fish keepers around. I’m in the Nashville area. I look forward to seeing what your future tank looks like. 

[Master Photographer]

Ginger, thank you. I’m looking forward to sharing images of it ... when I get it set up.

[Master Photographer]

37 minutes ago, Cory said:

A great example of a introduction thread. I wouldn't have known you were a photographer. I suppose we'll expect to see some fish photos down the road 😉

Since I don’t have ant fish images, I thought I’d share a few of my images. My first love has always been landscape photography, but my profession was as the top high school senior Photograper in Michigan, and as one of the top 10 senior photographers in the U.S.

[J. Mantooth]

Awesome to meet you! I can't wait to see you post some pics! I am also a photographer, though with only about 1/8 of your experience. Fish photography, I am learning quickly, is a very different animal from traditional event/sports photography. Looking forward to hearing more about your tank, your retirement, and some fish photography tips and tricks. 🙂

[StormyRen]

I always wanted to do nature photography including aquatics. I just can't afford a good camera. 😛 My phone is not that great, but, meh. Your photos are beautiful. I look forward to seeing more. 

[Streetwise]

Hi David,

Thanks for volunteering to help folks! I'm looking to add two photographic items to my kit. I need a decent tripod with an arm to get a phone or camera directly above a tub. I am also looking for some sort of glare solution to reduce tree and sky reflection on the water surface. I tried an umbrella, but it was not dark enough. I have also read about circular polarizing filters.

Any advice would be appreciated,

Jason

Example:

Edited July 14, 2020 by Streetwise

[Master Photographer]

28 minutes ago, J. Mantooth said:

Awesome to meet you! I can't wait to see you post some pics! I am also a photographer, though with only about 1/8 of your experience. Fish photography, I am learning quickly, is a very different animal from traditional event/sports photography. Looking forward to hearing more about your tank, your retirement, and some fish photography tips and tricks. 🙂

Thank you.

Photography is always evolving, and there is always something new to learn.

For fish photography, or any type of photography, the first thing to invest in is top quality lenses. Camera bodies change rapidly, no so with lenses. Therefore, your investment lasts longer. 

You will also need to know the type of lighting that your tank has, and set the White balance appropriately.  While many set their cameras to AWB (auto white balance) this can cause unwanted color shifts. Since the cameras sensor can be “tricked” by an over abundance of one color, let’s say green plants in the background. The camera will attempt time compensate for all the green and add red (which is the complementary color to green) in order to neutralize the color.

When it comes to photographing your fish, you will want to use a smaller aperture (f-stop), to give you a bit more depth of field. Assuming you’re using a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera that allows for interchangeable lenses. This will help minimize part of the fish going out of focus.

Another thing you will want to do is use a faster shutter speed. This will minimize camera shake and fish movement. An easy way to do this (again, assuming you’re using a DSLR) is to increase the ISO setting. Thus increasing the sensitivity, and allowing for faster shutter speeds. 
 

Typically, I would recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/250 of a second.

 I hope you find this information useful. You f you have any specific questions, please feel free to ask.

[Master Photographer]

23 minutes ago, Streetwise said:

Hi David,

Thanks for volunteering to help folks! I'm looking to add two photographic items to my kit. I need a decent tripod with an arm to get a phone or camera directly above a tub. I am also looking for some sort of glare solution to reduce tree and sky reflection on the water surface. I tried an umbrella, but it was not dark enough. I have also read about circular polarizing filters.

Any advice would be appreciated,

Jason

Example:

Jason, you’re welcome.

First, the solution for the glare is a polarizing filter. Typically, they have the ability to rotate the filter, that will “polarize” the light which reduces glare. Understand that polarizers typically result  in 1.3 stops of light loss. 

As for a tripod, there are several manufacturers that make tripods with center columns that can be rotated from vertical to horizontal. Having said that, I don’t typically recommend them since this throws the balance off, and depending upon the weight of your camera and lens, can put your gear in danger of ripping over. Don’t ask how I know this! 

I would recommend a tripod that allows the legs to be spread apart, independently of each other. This would allow you to situate your camera directly over your pond/tank, and minimize the weight shift of your camera.

Let me know your budget for the tripod and I can make a recommendation for you.

 

David

[Dalton]

This is going to be a great forum

[Master Photographer]

50 minutes ago, Dalton said:

This is going to be a great forum

I agree! 
 

I’ll certainly do my part.

[J. Mantooth]

10 hours ago, David Humphrey said:

Thank you.

Photography is always evolving, and there is always something new to learn.

For fish photography, or any type of photography, the first thing to invest in is top quality lenses. Camera bodies change rapidly, no so with lenses. Therefore, your investment lasts longer. 

You will also need to know the type of lighting that your tank has, and set the White balance appropriately.  While many set their cameras to AWB (auto white balance) this can cause unwanted color shifts. Since the cameras sensor can be “tricked” by an over abundance of one color, let’s say green plants in the background. The camera will attempt time compensate for all the green and add red (which is the complementary color to green) in order to neutralize the color.

When it comes to photographing your fish, you will want to use a smaller aperture (f-stop), to give you a bit more depth of field. Assuming you’re using a DSLR (Digital Single Lens Reflex) camera that allows for interchangeable lenses. This will help minimize part of the fish going out of focus.

Another thing you will want to do is use a faster shutter speed. This will minimize camera shake and fish movement. An easy way to do this (again, assuming you’re using a DSLR) is to increase the ISO setting. Thus increasing the sensitivity, and allowing for faster shutter speeds. 
 

Typically, I would recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/250 of a second.

 I hope you find this information useful. You f you have any specific questions, please feel free to ask.

Sweet! What you said means I am on the right track! I always forget about switching out of AWB, which explains why some of my shots have been a little hinky (blue/green tinges here and there). I have pretty much settled on 1/250 of a second for my fancy goldfish and bettas, but the koi aren't as used to the camera yet, so I tend to creep up to 1/320 ish. They see me coming with the big cameras and head for the hills, with haste.

I am hanging out at ISO 1000 using both a 50mm f/1.8 and a 24mm f/2.8. Neither of which are fabulous and I am not stoked about ISO's higher than 800 for any of my DSLR cameras. I have tried this configuration on a Canon 7D Mk II, 80D, and 5D Mk II, but noise seems to be an issue (or I could be nit picky?). The 80D actually seems to be handling best overall, which surprised the heck out of me. I think, for fish, I am going to need to spring for a f/1.4 lens and add additional lighting to the tank I am shooting. Maybe some fill from the top? Side? Direct or softer? I also haven't tried my 85mm  f/1.8 yet. Even with adjustment for the crop, it is a better (quality) lens than my 50mm cheapo, so that could help. Oh wait! I have an old Olympus 50mm f/1.2! I bet with an adapter that would give me something crisp. Manual focus for fish though? I may want to rethink that. LMAO! It is a pretty cool lens though. It has the shimmer ring in it that disappears when you are completely focused. Pretty sure that is not what it is called, but you get the idea.

I noticed you mentioned the use of a polarizing filter for glare on someone else's post. I ordered some filters a couple of years back, but I haven't even opened them. I thought I would probably need them someday. Perhaps it's time I break them out of the box and see what they can do? LOL! 

Ultimately I would like to get the settings down so I can break out one of my old TLRs or my old Olympus 35mm. Digital is fun and way more inexpensive, but I collect older cameras and I enjoy shooting with them. Though with 120 film, for the price, I want to make sure I can get pretty darn close before I burn a roll or six. 🙂 

Thanks for being here man! I can tell you are already going to be a popular guy. Possibly more popular than you bargained for. 🙂   

 

[Master Photographer]

On 7/14/2020 at 10:11 PM, Streetwise said:

David, I am currently using an iPhone XS, either alone, or with a DJI Osmo Mobile 3, and sometimes also with a tripod. These specific tubs are on the seating edge of a deck, so placing the tripod on the seating vs the deck is different. I am willing to try the flex-leg tripod you mention, or a crossbar with counterweight. I might be willing to spend $180 on the tripod if it was really versatile. For polarization on the iPhone, I have seen some cases with magnetic lens mounts, so maybe $120 there? I prefer to purchase the right thing once, like my Technics 1200s from 1993.

Thanks!

Jason,

I agree that investing in quality, is rarely, if ever, a bad idea, and based on your needs, I've found the following items that should serve you well.  Note: On the tripod, you can upgrade to a larger model if so desired.

Here's the best value (value is determined by what you get for your money, not always the cheapest price) for the tripod:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3M2XDY?pf_rd_r=T679F3GEA9SWWY11V423&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee

Here's the best value for a polarizer:

https://www.amazon.com/Homyl-Professional-Circular-Polarizer-Smartphones/dp/B07BQ8W9YJ/ref=pb_allspark_session_sims_desktop_421_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07BQ8W9YJ&pd_rd_r=c1cb97ab-5e66-4c6d-aa92-db68dd863f97&pd_rd_w=TVs5u&pd_rd_wg=HzMJU&pf_rd_p=6dab4af8-14d2-4d59-b0a2-dd973ff1f166&pf_rd_r=3VNDWZHV6S9C8PA7NMKR&psc=1&refRID=3VNDWZHV6S9C8PA7NMKR

If you have any further questions just let me know.

David

[Master Photographer]

11 hours ago, J. Mantooth said:

Sweet! What you said means I am on the right track! I always forget about switching out of AWB, which explains why some of my shots have been a little hinky (blue/green tinges here and there). I have pretty much settled on 1/250 of a second for my fancy goldfish and bettas, but the koi aren't as used to the camera yet, so I tend to creep up to 1/320 ish. They see me coming with the big cameras and head for the hills, with haste.

I am hanging out at ISO 1000 using both a 50mm f/1.8 and a 24mm f/2.8. Neither of which are fabulous and I am not stoked about ISO's higher than 800 for any of my DSLR cameras. I have tried this configuration on a Canon 7D Mk II, 80D, and 5D Mk II, but noise seems to be an issue (or I could be nit picky?). The 80D actually seems to be handling best overall, which surprised the heck out of me. I think, for fish, I am going to need to spring for a f/1.4 lens and add additional lighting to the tank I am shooting. Maybe some fill from the top? Side? Direct or softer? I also haven't tried my 85mm  f/1.8 yet. Even with adjustment for the crop, it is a better (quality) lens than my 50mm cheapo, so that could help. Oh wait! I have an old Olympus 50mm f/1.2! I bet with an adapter that would give me something crisp. Manual focus for fish though? I may want to rethink that. LMAO! It is a pretty cool lens though. It has the shimmer ring in it that disappears when you are completely focused. Pretty sure that is not what it is called, but you get the idea.

I noticed you mentioned the use of a polarizing filter for glare on someone else's post. I ordered some filters a couple of years back, but I haven't even opened them. I thought I would probably need them someday. Perhaps it's time I break them out of the box and see what they can do? LOL! 

Ultimately I would like to get the settings down so I can break out one of my old TLRs or my old Olympus 35mm. Digital is fun and way more inexpensive, but I collect older cameras and I enjoy shooting with them. Though with 120 film, for the price, I want to make sure I can get pretty darn close before I burn a roll or six. 🙂 

Thanks for being here man! I can tell you are already going to be a popular guy. Possibly more popular than you bargained for. 🙂   

 

Jen,

Every photographer has to find their "sweet spot", where shutter speed, aperture, ISO, camera, lens, even post processing software and plug-ins, come together. They each play a part in determining the "look" of the image, and the individual photographer's style.

ISO and the corresponding "noise" that increases with raising the ISO, is subjective. As a professional, I've been known to "pixel peek" when processing my images. This comes from typically producing 40" prints or larger. So, being "nit picky" isn't necessarily a bad thing.

What we need to remember is how is the image going to be utilized. If we are primarily creating images for use on the internet, and taking into consideration that some sites, like facebook, compress images further, ISO noise is much less a factor than if the image is going to be used for the production of large prints. Also, weened to remember, that most people will never "see" the things that we do. 🙂

The quality of image sensors has been improving ever since the introduction of digital imaging. Each new generation builds on the past and strives to improve in various areas of performance.

I started out, back in 2001, with a Fuji S1, then moved to the Fuji S2, then moved to the Canon 5D, then moved to the Canon 5D Mk III, then moved to the Canon 5d MkIV, and now I have the Sony a7R IV. Each cane I made was because of the increase in image quality, noise reduction, and increased exposure range. One thing to remember is there is always a Price/Performance ratio that needs to be evaluated, and of course your budget. If I can't pay for a piece of equipment in a year with additional sales, then I have to seriously consider whether the investment is warranted.

Lighting is always a factor, especially with photography. The color temperature of the light (kelvin scale) determines how the camera, or film, will see the image. This is sometimes confusing because our brains color correct based on perception, i.e., that piece of paper is white, so our brain corrects the image for us, so we "see" it as white.  If you are going to shoot film, you will need to either make sure that your light source is daylight balanced, or buy CC (color correcting) filters to compensate for the kelvin temperature difference. This is where digital has a huge benefit over film.

Are you going to use the additional light strictly for your fish photography, or will you be using it for other types of photography? If it's going to be for fish, I'd recommend Aquarium Co-Op's lights. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/pages/led-aquarium-lighting Not only will they give you more light, but they will allow you to grow plants. 🙂

There are many adapters for lenses. What we need to remember is that today's image sensors have better resolving power, in some cases MUCH better, and that older lenses may not be up to the task. You will need to test this before you invest in one. Most local camera stores will allow you to try an adaptor on your camera/lens before you buy it. Find one that allows this, take your gear, put the adapter on, and take a few test shots (at various apertures, and I recommend photographing a page of text from a magazine, etc.), then take the image files back to your computer and compare them, if you can, with images from other lenses.

TLR, there's a term few will know. 😉 My first 120/220 camera was a Mamiya C330, and 55mm, 80mm, 135mm, and 250mm. Great memories!

Hopefully you find this information helpful. 🙂

I'm always glad to help. I've been teacher/educator in the professional photography, collegiate field for 40 years.

David 

 

 

Edited July 15, 2020 by David Humphrey
added, "come together." to finish sentence thought.

[J. Mantooth]

23 hours ago, David Humphrey said:

Jen,

Every photographer has to find their "sweet spot", where shutter speed, aperture, ISO, camera, lens, even post processing software and plug-ins, come together. They each play a part in determining the "look" of the image, and the individual photographer's style.

ISO and the corresponding "noise" that increases with raising the ISO, is subjective. As a professional, I've been known to "pixel peek" when processing my images. This comes from typically producing 40" prints or larger. So, being "nit picky" isn't necessarily a bad thing.

What we need to remember is how is the image going to be utilized. If we are primarily creating images for use on the internet, and taking into consideration that some sites, like facebook, compress images further, ISO noise is much less a factor than if the image is going to be used for the production of large prints. Also, weened to remember, that most people will never "see" the things that we do. 🙂

The quality of image sensors has been improving ever since the introduction of digital imaging. Each new generation builds on the past and strives to improve in various areas of performance.

I started out, back in 2001, with a Fuji S1, then moved to the Fuji S2, then moved to the Canon 5D, then moved to the Canon 5D Mk III, then moved to the Canon 5d MkIV, and now I have the Sony a7R IV. Each cane I made was because of the increase in image quality, noise reduction, and increased exposure range. One thing to remember is there is always a Price/Performance ratio that needs to be evaluated, and of course your budget. If I can't pay for a piece of equipment in a year with additional sales, then I have to seriously consider whether the investment is warranted.

Lighting is always a factor, especially with photography. The color temperature of the light (kelvin scale) determines how the camera, or film, will see the image. This is sometimes confusing because our brains color correct based on perception, i.e., that piece of paper is white, so our brain corrects the image for us, so we "see" it as white.  If you are going to shoot film, you will need to either make sure that your light source is daylight balanced, or buy CC (color correcting) filters to compensate for the kelvin temperature difference. This is where digital has a huge benefit over film.

Are you going to use the additional light strictly for your fish photography, or will you be using it for other types of photography? If it's going to be for fish, I'd recommend Aquarium Co-Op's lights. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/pages/led-aquarium-lighting Not only will they give you more light, but they will allow you to grow plants. 🙂

There are many adapters for lenses. What we need to remember is that today's image sensors have better resolving power, in some cases MUCH better, and that older lenses may not be up to the task. You will need to test this before you invest in one. Most local camera stores will allow you to try an adaptor on your camera/lens before you buy it. Find one that allows this, take your gear, put the adapter on, and take a few test shots (at various apertures, and I recommend photographing a page of text from a magazine, etc.), then take the image files back to your computer and compare them, if you can, with images from other lenses.

TLR, there's a term few will know. 😉 My first 120/220 camera was a Mamiya C330, and 55mm, 80mm, 135mm, and 250mm. Great memories!

Hopefully you find this information helpful. 🙂

I'm always glad to help. I've been teacher/educator in the professional photography, collegiate field for 40 years.

David 

I am an absolute pixel peeper! LOL! I try to be objective and remember most of my images will end up on the web, but I do like to make larger prints too. A photographer I met years and years ago told me it was a good practice to make prints of your best shots, mostly for prosperity and learning. I haven't needed to shoot anything for a billboard, but I do strive to give myself the print option should I decide I like the shot enough.

While all of my camera bodies perform well at even higher ISO's, I try to get the cleanest images I can from the get go, rather than relying too much on post editing. I think that comes from starting out on film, being largely self taught, and doing it poorly. 🙂 That being said, I am not poo-pooing modern post processing tech at all. I actually embraced Lightroom and Photoshop when I moved from film to digital, perhaps a little too much. Got sloppy for a while and had to reign myself in and go back to basics. Except lighting, apparently. LOL!

I see you made the move to Sony. I have been considering the same move for a couple of years now, but it comes down to that whole Price/Performance ratio you spoke about. Would I like to upgrade my gear, of course. But do I really need to? Meh. Then Canon threw a wrench in and released the new R5. Most of what I shoot now are musicians in dark clubs performing on a stage. Or musicians that need images for album art/promo work. Settings and lenses for that are pretty straight forward for that. I think because fish are moving much faster, they are smaller than people, and the fact they are in water in a glass box is the part that is throwing me off. 🙂

I am running Finnex Stingray lights on all of my tanks, with the exception of the 75 gallons + tanks. (Courtesy of AqCo, of course.) They are advertised to run at 7000K, which based on the handy image you posted, explains the bluish green tint on some of my shots. I will play with my white balance as I am now sure what that glitch was. Thanks again for that hot tip!

I think the problem is with my light placement. Most of my tanks are deeper (width vs. length) and the lights are positioned middle to back half of the tank. When my fish see me, naturally they are excited the bringer of food has arrived so they move toward the front of the tank. This is causing them to essentially be back lit. Last night I tried moving the light farther forward in the tank and the fish look great. So for closeups, this is better. But the plants and background look like garbage, which isn't so great for wider tank shots. I have a couple of pocket Aputure AL-M9's I think I will try to put those toward the front of the tank to add some additional pizzazz. Though if I put them on the top, all of the lighting will be from the top down. Should I be thinking about ways to light the tank from the front?  Or maybe the sides? Doing that without glare? Are top down lighting issues moot because water is reflective? Substrate on most of my tanks is black or dark, so not much bounce going on in there. Everything in my gut screams direct flash on a glass box is a bad idea. LOL! Also don't want to give my fish a heart attack. 🙂 Unless there is a flash trick I don't know about?

Back in the day, I couldn't afford extra lenses when I got my first digital camera (Canon Rebel T3i). I used to adapt my old 35mm film camera lenses to it, as I already owned those. I am pretty sure I still have an OM-EF and an old Nikon F-EF adapter floating around somewhere. I will try your magazine trick to see whether or not my newer camera bodies appreciate the classics. 

I have both the Mamiya C330 and a C220. I used to use an old Yashica too, but I have relegated it to bookshelf decor until I replace the door seals. I love shooting portraits with these! Makes me feel like a mad scientist with the bellows and knobs. The big shutter click really is satisfying. I have the 80mm and the 135mm lenses, but finding the 55mm, in serviceable condition, for less than a bazillion "you must be out of your mind" bucks has proven challenging. I still check eBay from time to time to see what is out there, but since I use the 80mm most of the time anyway, I am not in a hurry. 

Of course the info is helpful! You know how hard it is to find a photographer willing to take the time to break this stuff down? I very much appreciate it!  

 

[Master Photographer]

On 7/16/2020 at 2:06 PM, J. Mantooth said:

I am an absolute pixel peeper! LOL! I try to be objective and remember most of my images will end up on the web, but I do like to make larger prints too. A photographer I met years and years ago told me it was a good practice to make prints of your best shots, mostly for prosperity and learning. I haven't needed to shoot anything for a billboard, but I do strive to give myself the print option should I decide I like the shot enough.

While all of my camera bodies perform well at even higher ISO's, I try to get the cleanest images I can from the get go, rather than relying too much on post editing. I think that comes from starting out on film, being largely self taught, and doing it poorly. 🙂 That being said, I am not poo-pooing modern post processing tech at all. I actually embraced Lightroom and Photoshop when I moved from film to digital, perhaps a little too much. Got sloppy for a while and had to reign myself in and go back to basics. Except lighting, apparently. LOL!

I see you made the move to Sony. I have been considering the same move for a couple of years now, but it comes down to that whole Price/Performance ratio you spoke about. Would I like to upgrade my gear, of course. But do I really need to? Meh. Then Canon threw a wrench in and released the new R5. Most of what I shoot now are musicians in dark clubs performing on a stage. Or musicians that need images for album art/promo work. Settings and lenses for that are pretty straight forward for that. I think because fish are moving much faster, they are smaller than people, and the fact they are in water in a glass box is the part that is throwing me off. 🙂

I am running Finnex Stingray lights on all of my tanks, with the exception of the 75 gallons + tanks. (Courtesy of AqCo, of course.) They are advertised to run at 7000K, which based on the handy image you posted, explains the bluish green tint on some of my shots. I will play with my white balance as I am now sure what that glitch was. Thanks again for that hot tip!

I think the problem is with my light placement. Most of my tanks are deeper (width vs. length) and the lights are positioned middle to back half of the tank. When my fish see me, naturally they are excited the bringer of food has arrived so they move toward the front of the tank. This is causing them to essentially be back lit. Last night I tried moving the light farther forward in the tank and the fish look great. So for closeups, this is better. But the plants and background look like garbage, which isn't so great for wider tank shots. I have a couple of pocket Aputure AL-M9's I think I will try to put those toward the front of the tank to add some additional pizzazz. Though if I put them on the top, all of the lighting will be from the top down. Should I be thinking about ways to light the tank from the front?  Or maybe the sides? Doing that without glare? Are top down lighting issues moot because water is reflective? Substrate on most of my tanks is black or dark, so not much bounce going on in there. Everything in my gut screams direct flash on a glass box is a bad idea. LOL! Also don't want to give my fish a heart attack. 🙂 Unless there is a flash trick I don't know about?

Back in the day, I couldn't afford extra lenses when I got my first digital camera (Canon Rebel T3i). I used to adapt my old 35mm film camera lenses to it, as I already owned those. I am pretty sure I still have an OM-EF and an old Nikon F-EF adapter floating around somewhere. I will try your magazine trick to see whether or not my newer camera bodies appreciate the classics. 

I have both the Mamiya C330 and a C220. I used to use an old Yashica too, but I have relegated it to bookshelf decor until I replace the door seals. I love shooting portraits with these! Makes me feel like a mad scientist with the bellows and knobs. The big shutter click really is satisfying. I have the 80mm and the 135mm lenses, but finding the 55mm, in serviceable condition, for less than a bazillion "you must be out of your mind" bucks has proven challenging. I still check eBay from time to time to see what is out there, but since I use the 80mm most of the time anyway, I am not in a hurry. 

Of course the info is helpful! You know how hard it is to find a photographer willing to take the time to break this stuff down? I very much appreciate it!  

 

Pixel Peepers ROCK!! 😎

I have a suggestion for your noise situation:  https://topazlabs.com/denoise-ai-2/  I've been using Topaz DeNoise AI, and it is nothing short of amazing! I've done a lot of low-light photography, and this plug-in will pay for itself in no time.

Do a couple of test shots to see how our fish react, but it shouldn't be a major issue.

Lighting wise, you need to balance all of your light sources as closely as possible, unless there is a creative reason for mixing light sources. So if your lights are putting out 7000k, and you have a flash for your camera, that you can setup to fire off-camera, you could use the flash along with your Finnex. The color temperature difference is negligible. You can use off-camera flash to enhance your subject matter. If you need to soften the light from the flash, you could use a piece of white material, or even a piece of paper towel, taped to the aquarium glass, then put the front of the flash right up against the material/glass surface. By putting the flash right against the surface you will minimize reflected light flare. Depending on where you place your flash, you can gain additional main subject or background definition. 

The biggest issue that most people have when they start photographing smaller subjects, is that we are required to get closer. By reducing camera to subject distance, we need to be aware of the reduction in DOF (Depth Of Field). So we need use a higher f-stop like f16, f22, or f32, which will result in increasing the ISO to higher levels so that we can use the higher f-stop, and still be able to maintain a shutter speed fast enough to freeze motion, which just so happens to suffer the same malady as DOF. due to a reduction of camera to subject distance.

Seeking "good deals" on equipment is always a challenge. But, the more we look, the more likely we are to find the deal we want.

If you have any further questions, just ask. 🙂

 

[Chandra]

@David Humphrey I'm thinking to buy a camera for taking photos of my aquariums. I have a budget around $500 and I was wondering if I should opt for GX85 or DJI Osmo? Whats your recommendation for beginners?