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One thing is why go for a 150 gallon per day system when you don’t need that much water? you can save some money or spring for some bells and whistles like an inline tds metre or some pressure indicators or even an extra stage with that money 

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The system you bought is fine, assuming the cartridges are sufficient quality. How do you plan on using it? Will you be collecting the RODI in a tank or pail? Will it be turned off manually, or automatically when full (float valve and auto shut off or ASO)? Agree with @face do get an inline tds meter.

What are you using the RODI for? You might be able to skip the DI resin stage (and save $ on maintenance that way) if you can get away with 5-15ppm tds output. 

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On 7/2/2024 at 6:54 PM, face said:

One thing is why go for a 150 gallon per day system when you don’t need that much water? you can save some money or spring for some bells and whistles like an inline tds metre or some pressure indicators or even an extra stage with that money 

It was on offer, and also the quicker the better. I have a TDS pen, and it comes with a pressure gauge.

On 7/2/2024 at 8:26 PM, TOtrees said:

The system you bought is fine, assuming the cartridges are sufficient quality. How do you plan on using it? Will you be collecting the RODI in a tank or pail? Will it be turned off manually, or automatically when full (float valve and auto shut off or ASO)? Agree with @face do get an inline tds meter.

What are you using the RODI for? You might be able to skip the DI resin stage (and save $ on maintenance that way) if you can get away with 5-15ppm tds output. 

Gonna use the RO water in a large Rubbermaid Brute, using it for discus as my water parameters are awful for discus.

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On 7/2/2024 at 3:41 PM, Cjbear087 said:

Gonna use the RO water in a large Rubbermaid Brute, using it for discus as my water parameters are awful for discus.

The way I understand it, for saltwater tanks, you really need to be starting with water that is at or close to zero ppm. So you need the membrane to do the legwork bringing down the TDS, but getting the ppm to zero is the job of the DI resin. But, for freshwater applications, it’s not so important to start with 0 ppm, so if your membrane is in reasonable shape, you can just use that and not finish your water through the DI resin.

I make RO water for my terrarium, carnivorous plants, and dart frog tadpoles, and I don’t use DI resin. Way simpler, way cheaper.

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We've talked about this before, but you don't need the RO for discus and you ABSOLUTELY do not need the RO/DI for discus unless you're going to breed them.  And even then, straight RO is almost certain to be good enough to hatch the eggs in.

As others stated above, the DI is just going to cost you more money for no gain.

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On 7/3/2024 at 6:28 PM, jwcarlson said:

We've talked about this before, but you don't need the RO for discus and you ABSOLUTELY do not need the RO/DI for discus unless you're going to breed them.  And even then, straight RO is almost certain to be good enough to hatch the eggs in.

As others stated above, the DI is just going to cost you more money for no gain.

I decided to go for the RO as I would still have trouble breeding with my normal tap water, however I see what you guys are saying about the DI costing more so to bypass it can I just remove the resin for the canister?

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On 7/3/2024 at 12:29 PM, Cjbear087 said:

I decided to go for the RO as I would still have trouble breeding with my normal tap water, however I see what you guys are saying about the DI costing more so to bypass it can I just remove the resin for the canister?

I'm not sure how your system is set up, but yes.  Basically, you'd pull the RO water out where the inlet to the DI cartridge is.  It's just a matter of figuring out where that is.  Looking at the picture, I'd guess your RO membrane is on top.  There could/should be a diagram that tells you what is what.  I'm not sure where the resin would be, but maybe there's a canister inside one of the bottom stages?

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On 7/3/2024 at 7:35 PM, jwcarlson said:

I'm not sure how your system is set up, but yes.  Basically, you'd pull the RO water out where the inlet to the DI cartridge is.  It's just a matter of figuring out where that is.  Looking at the picture, I'd guess your RO membrane is on top.  There could/should be a diagram that tells you what is what.  I'm not sure where the resin would be, but maybe there's a canister inside one of the bottom stages?

Yep I believe so, but if I remove rhe resin surely it would just go through the DI cartridge but not do anything due to the lack of resin?

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On 7/3/2024 at 1:38 PM, Cjbear087 said:

Yep I believe so, but if I remove rhe resin surely it would just go through the DI cartridge but not do anything due to the lack of resin?

Correct, if the resin is removable you could just do that for sure.

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On 7/3/2024 at 2:38 PM, Cjbear087 said:

Yep I believe so, but if I remove rhe resin surely it would just go through the DI cartridge but not do anything due to the lack of resin?

I have a bulk reef supply RO/DI unit that I have had since my reef keeping days. I don't have any DI resin in the canister and the water just goes through there and out to my storage container. My water comes in the unit between 250-300 and it will be down to 2 or 3 coming out of the RO membrane. If I notice that the TDS is creeping up, I change the sediment and carbon blocks. I have well water and use it straight for all my fish, even my discus tank. I use the RO water for caridina shrimp tanks, remineralizing it, and for when I am trying to spawn fish that require softer water like wild caught corydoras, apistos, and various plecos. 

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The temptation for me would be to set it up with an extra sediment filter so it would go 5 microns 1 micron carbon block then ro member just to help the carbon not get blocked so fast … if you have the exact slot lol

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