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Brand new tank questions


its_colie94
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Hi everyone! So as I am new to the hobby and do not want to do too much too fast with my tank, I have a couple of questions. My ammonia levels and nitrite levels are 0 but my nitrates were not climbing so I followed a post from aquarium co op to get nitrates up to 50ppm, see if it climbs after 3-4 days and then complete a water change. Currently we are somewhere between 25-40ppm. After doing so we got some algae growth but I am wondering when to complete a water change. Everyone is saying something different and we are in our first week of set up. 
 

levels are:

ammonia: 0ppm

nitrites: 0ppm

Nitrates: 25-50ppm

chlorine: 0ppm

ph: 8.0

gh: 16 degrees

kh: 8 degrees

20g aquarium planted with about 12ish plants

image.jpg.977afb9bbeefe3d4ff65d317a61f72d4.jpg

anything helps thank you! 

Edited by its_colie94
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Welcome! 

First, you're always going to get multiple answers, because a) there are many ways to get from A to Z, and b) different folks will prefer different routes based on their ability, preferences, resources, limitations, etc. 

There are some key factors that will determine how fast your tank "cycles". 

- what definition of "cycled" are you using?

- what substrate do you have?

- what kind of filtration do you have?

- live plants or no?

- fish in or fishless? 

I'm not asking these per se, but more pointing out that all these variables and combos of variables are what lead to all the different and varying instructions you've read. 

Personally, based on what I'm seeing in the info you've provided, and your pic, I think you're good to go. Do a few water changes and see how the system responds. If you've been adding an ammonia source, keep doing so until you add fish. 

Edited by TOtrees
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Really nice scape for your first tank. And kudos for heavily planting. Unrelated to your cycling question, you may want to glue (super glue / cyanoacroylate) or attach your Java ferns to a rock or decor or they will not do well. Your anubias too should not be buried in the substrate. These are Epiphyites. 

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@Pepere @TOtrees Thanks you! I am aware that my tank is not going to be cycled within 1 week. Upon set up I did dose the tank with Fritz live bacteria. 
 

I have a fishless cycle going with caribsea eco complete substrate, with a sponge filter, and live plants. I know the big road ahead for a cycled or seasoned tank. 
 

I am mainly wondering when you all had your aquariums first set up, was your first water change strategic when your levels were out of wack? Or if not what your water change schedule is if your numbers are otherwise fine? 
 

also do I continue to add the live bacteria if levels continue to be what they are and are balanced? 
 

@Stef I appreciate the insight! I did put them in the substrate but made sure the rhizome was not covered so they will continue to grow. Thank you for the tip on the Java ferns too! I have placed them with they’re rhizomes out as well, I’ll have to get some small pieces of driftwood and attach them since my gh is so high already. 

thanks! 

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I’ve never done a fishless cycle. I add a few fish (as few as I can get away with initially, like 2-4), preferably a “greedy” but tolerant fish like guppies or endlers or danios or white clouds or medaka. Initially I rely on water changes and Prime to keep parameters in line. And very light feeding. IMO overfeeding is the single greatest mistake the new aquarium keepers make.

The plants you have in there will be beneficial for two reasons. First, they will directly absorb some ammonia and or nitrate, thereby helping with water quality. Second, they will assuredly have introduced decent amounts of beneficial bacteria, e.g. from the tanks they’ve come from in the past. This will shorten the time it takes to cycle your tank, as compared to having started from zero.

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On 10/10/2023 at 8:36 PM, its_colie94 said:

@Galabar Currently was not using ammonia but have Dr. Tom’s ordered 

dr Tim’s  will work fine for an ammonia source.  Algae is normal for a new setup as you balance things.  Some algae eaters like nerite snails or otocinclus can help once filter is cycled but you can reduce lighting some until you get there.  

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On 10/10/2023 at 12:20 PM, its_colie94 said:

So as I am new to the hobby and do not want to do too much too fast with my tank

I just needed to take a second and highlight this. This entire mindset is the entire focus of the hobby for me.  There's always going to be things I want to rush and things I wish I could, but patience (and stability) is critical and leads to the most success for you and those inside the tank.

 

I don't want to have a very long post with a lot of tips and tricks, especially for what you're dealing with right now. My advice is to just let the tank do it's thing for at least a month. In terms of ferts, 20 ppm is where I keep my stuff at. Things get higher and I do a water change. Right now you're "practicing" and you can be doing normal maintenance like you would for any tank that is cycled and has been setup. Check the filter once a week. Scrape the glass. Add a small pinch of food every few days and your normal plant ferts once a week. Dial in the lighting intensity and just observe what the plants do.

I wouldn't do anything more complicated or excessive than that.

On 10/10/2023 at 12:20 PM, its_colie94 said:

20g aquarium planted with about 12ish plantsimage.jpg.977afb9bbeefe3d4ff65d317a61f72d4.jpg

What plants are under the wood in the middle there? Anything like anubias and java fern you'd want to make sure the rhizome is not buried in the substrate. As far as indications of health of the tank I would use the val in the background. It should generally be the quickest growing, easier plant in that setup. Look for shiny new bright green growth on everything.

On 10/10/2023 at 12:20 PM, its_colie94 said:

ph: 8.0

gh: 16 degrees

kh: 8 degrees

Please enjoy!  This was a super helpful video for me, especially when it comes to plant help.

In my case, GH:7-8 KH: 3-4.  You'll just want to keep an eye on the plants because some get very cranky when things get higher in minerals.

Edited by nabokovfan87
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Alright a bit of an update. I was able to add some ammonia, currently on the second dose as of last night back to 2ppm to see how the tank is cycling thus far. I do have high nitrates >40ppm that is causing some algae to start going but am mainly focusing on the ammonia and nitrites (.50 ppm as of last night).

 

Now what I am wondering is, should I do a water change to level those out, or wait until I have my cycle complete in order to do so? I have done 1 water change to drop nitrates back down to 20ppm before cycling with ammonia. I also have a lot of plant matter in my substrate that may be helping my nitrites go up a bit after ammonia breaks down as well. 

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You can do water changes like you normally would.  If you're dumping in ammonia, it's not the same as having fish, which isn't the same as having food dropped in and rotting to cause ammonia to build up.  It's hard to know what "the best method" is and I see a lot of people using ammonia based on products available.  I've never used it before and I've never had issues before. 

If your nitrates are 40ppm or higher then yeah, do a massive water change without issue.  If there's fish in the tank, 50% water change weekly until things get back under control. 

Your tank has all the bacteria in place when you see ammonia turn into nitrite and nitrite turn into nitrate.  It's "cycled" when you no longer see nitrite or ammonia anymore.  You then would look for things like diatom algae.  I hope all of that makes sense and it's a very high level/quick explanation of what you're going through. 

You've got the plants in there and it's basically all about letting them grow and do their thing.  Nothing too fancy or complicated, just do what you normally would right now as if there was fish in the tank and you're caring for them.  Your nitrate levels would come from fertilizers (not necessarily from dosing in ammonia).  If your nitrates are 5-10 ppm is fine, 20 is fine, 30 is a little high., etc.  I measure mine before I do a water change and then I log that for say 4-5 weeks.  That gives you an idea of how much the plants are using and you can go from there.  When you add in the fish, you don't want to see a massive jump in nitrate (or other parameters) because that would be an indication of stocking the tank too much, too quickly.  Slow and steady is 100% the way you have a successful tank.

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