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Aerating water change water


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I age/aerate my water because my tap water is 7.0 pH (lots of dissolved CO2, I think) and when aged it jumps up to a pH of 8.2.  Which is a pretty big swing in pH and can stress fish.  If your tap water doesn't do anything like that and you can match temperature of the tank fairly closely... there's really no point in doing it.  I still use Prime dosed at the volume of the whole tank when I do WC.

It also becomes more important when you're doing big water changes.  So the main driver for me is when I do 90% WC every night on my discus.  I don't both aging or preheating water for topping off.

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On 4/5/2023 at 1:10 PM, jwcarlson said:

I age/aerate my water because my tap water is 7.0 pH (lots of dissolved CO2, I think) and when aged it jumps up to a pH of 8.2.  Which is a pretty big swing in pH and can stress fish.  If your tap water doesn't do anything like that and you can match temperature of the tank fairly closely... there's really no point in doing it.  I still use Prime dosed at the volume of the whole tank when I do WC.

It also becomes more important when you're doing big water changes.  So the main driver for me is when I do 90% WC every night on my discus.  I don't both aging or preheating water for topping off.

Ah gotcha, I had an extra T-valve and airstone sitting around so I wanted to make sure there wasn’t any big cons about it. I do have a low-tech shrimp tank. And so I wanted to make sure their water had plenty of oxygen in it beforehand

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An air stone in the new water was the old school method of dechlorinating water.  I started out 30 years ago and without the interwebs was very skeptical of the dechlorinators out there.  I did this for 10 years before someone recommended Prime to me.

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