My milksnake 🥛

[Guppysnail]

On 4/12/2023 at 10:42 AM, The endler guy said:

any suggestions on how to actually “catch” him?

Place a heat pad on one side of his tank. Depending on his heat requirements if they like a significantly cooler side place it on his basking side. If ambient temp in the room falls below his comfort zone place it on the cool side. Also if the temperature is too warm in the entire tank he will burrow to the cooler temperature. 
mince you have space throughout the enclosure that is his comfort at all times he will be more visibly active. When he is active you can handle him. I never recommend digging them out when they are resting. If he hides most of the time it’s because his visible areas are not perfect comfort zones. 
Note though some species simply prefer to stay hidden at all times. I’ve not worked with any of those though. 

[The endler guy]

On 4/12/2023 at 11:38 AM, Guppysnail said:

Place a heat pad on one side of his tank. Depending on his heat requirements if they like a significantly cooler side place it on his basking side. If ambient temp in the room falls below his comfort zone place it on the cool side. Also if the temperature is too warm in the entire tank he will burrow to the cooler temperature. 
mince you have space throughout the enclosure that is his comfort at all times he will be more visibly active. When he is active you can handle him. I never recommend digging them out when they are resting. If he hides most of the time it’s because his visible areas are not perfect comfort zones. 
Note though some species simply prefer to stay hidden at all times. I’ve not worked with any of those though. 

I am fairly certain he is hiding because he is in shed, is primarily nocturnal, fossorial, and still young, from what I’ve read this isn’t unusual behavior 

[Odd Duck]

As a veterinarian, I hate heat rocks.  They are too unreliable and reptiles have a very slow, delayed response to a gradual build up to excess heat and can easily get burned.  I’ve seen way too many burns from heat rocks.  In my opinion, all electrical components and cords should be on the outside of a reptile enclosure if at all possible (not always possible with very large enclosures, but you’ll never need a giant enclosure with your milk snake).

It is much safer to use a heat bulb and adjust the height above the tank with an end goal of around 95’F for the basking spot for a milk snake.  I recommend all heat sources on one end of the tank so you can try to have a good heat gradient so they can self regulate.  You need to limit how hot and how cool each end gets more strictly with youngsters.  Adults a could easily handle going down to 60-65’F on the cool end and 105’F at the basking site.  I recommend no lower than 70’F or higher than 95’F for a youngster which are more sensitive.  Do you have a temperature gun?  ZooMed makes a very cheap IR thermometer which works just fine.  Mine have never been more than about 1-1.5’F off from a known accurate thermometer.  This is one of the best ways to check temps at the cool end, basking spot, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B0053Y6IPE/ref=sr_1_45?crid=3C99ME5QFLJ3O&keywords=thermometer%2BZooMed&qid=1681320249&sprefix=thermometer%2Bzoomed%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-45&th=1

You can put a heating pad against the side or end of the tank for additional heat down low if needed.  I don’t like them against the bottom in case water gets spilled - it can crack the glass but wet bedding also transmits heat too well and can cause burns, plus it can grow more bacteria in the bedding with extra heat in the bedding.  Heat pad against the side reduces risk of cracked glass, or wet bedding transmitting too much heat.  It doesn’t completely remove the risk of growing more bacteria or mold, but your CUC in a bioactive should take care of that and minimize risk.

It’s not likely your little guy will eat while in blue.  He might eat after his eyes clear and just before he sheds but far more likely that he will wait until after he sheds, then be ready to eat a good meal.

What all do you have for CUC?  Did you get good amounts of isopods and springtails - enough to start with a good population?  You didn’t have the set up prepped ahead of time, right, since it was a surprise?  It’s going to be a good bit before you’re properly bioactive unless you bought a LOT of CUC’s.  This means you’ll have to be extra careful about cleaning up droppings and monitoring moisture levels since you won’t have the numbers of CUC’s to prevent mold and bacteria build up in damp substrate.

[The endler guy]

On 4/12/2023 at 1:25 PM, Odd Duck said:

As a veterinarian, I hate heat rocks.  They are too unreliable and reptiles have a very slow, delayed response to a gradual build up to excess heat and can easily get burned.  I’ve seen way too many burns from heat rocks.  In my opinion, all electrical components and cords should be on the outside of a reptile enclosure if at all possible (not always possible with very large enclosures, but you’ll never need a giant enclosure with your milk snake).

It is much safer to use a heat bulb and adjust the height above the tank with an end goal of around 95’F for the basking spot for a milk snake.  I recommend all heat sources on one end of the tank so you can try to have a good heat gradient so they can self regulate.  You need to limit how hot and how cool each end gets more strictly with youngsters.  Adults a could easily handle going down to 60-65’F on the cool end and 105’F at the basking site.  I recommend no lower than 70’F or higher than 95’F for a youngster which are more sensitive.  Do you have a temperature gun?  ZooMed makes a very cheap IR thermometer which works just fine.  Mine have never been more than about 1-1.5’F off from a known accurate thermometer.  This is one of the best ways to check temps at the cool end, basking spot, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiTemp-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B0053Y6IPE/ref=sr_1_45?crid=3C99ME5QFLJ3O&keywords=thermometer%2BZooMed&qid=1681320249&sprefix=thermometer%2Bzoomed%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-45&th=1

You can put a heating pad against the side or end of the tank for additional heat down low if needed.  I don’t like them against the bottom in case water gets spilled - it can crack the glass but wet bedding also transmits heat too well and can cause burns, plus it can grow more bacteria in the bedding with extra heat in the bedding.  Heat pad against the side reduces risk of cracked glass, or wet bedding transmitting too much heat.  It doesn’t completely remove the risk of growing more bacteria or mold, but your CUC in a bioactive should take care of that and minimize risk.

It’s not likely your little guy will eat while in blue.  He might eat after his eyes clear and just before he sheds but far more likely that he will wait until after he sheds, then be ready to eat a good meal.

What all do you have for CUC?  Did you get good amounts of isopods and springtails - enough to start with a good population?  You didn’t have the set up prepped ahead of time, right, since it was a surprise?  It’s going to be a good bit before you’re properly bioactive unless you bought a LOT of CUC’s.  This means you’ll have to be extra careful about cleaning up droppings and monitoring moisture levels since you won’t have the numbers of CUC’s to prevent mold and bacteria build up in damp substrate.

For my clean up crew I have some springtails (I still need to get some isopods) 

I an not super concerned with molding as it is fairly dry and probably not enough moisture to cause more mold then the small amounts of what I have can handle 

 

I’ll definitely pick up a heat gun, that is one thing that I have been meaning to get, but I also have thermometers so I’m not just going in blind with the heat lights

[CrashBandit05]

I can second not using heat rocks. I used a ZooMed heating pad placed on one end on the outside of the VERTICAL side of the glass. It decreases the chances of the snake being burned and helps to keep that hot side of the tank hot! I never unplugged it. I used an infrared heat gun to check temps, then used varying wattages of incandescent bulbs in one of those black "reptile" domes to achieve the desired ambient temps.

I used the CUC that came with my bioactive kit. Never really saw any creepycrawlys, but I also spot cleaned the snake's poop when I came across it. I don't think you can have too many isopods or anything, and those piebald ones are definitely cute lol.

Edited April 12, 2023 by CrashBandit05

[Odd Duck]

If your substrate is too dry your CUC’s won’t prosper and won’t be able to do their job.  It can be a fine line, for sure.  Definitely recommend some isopods, and more than one species if you can, since different species will excel in slightly different conditions.  They will each find their spot as you find the right moisture and heat levels.

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 4/2/2023 at 10:34 AM, The endler guy said:

I still need to get food (they were sold out of pinky mice) 

Just curious, can snakes eat meats that humans eat (ie: chicken, beef, pork, etc..?)

@Odd Duck

Edited April 14, 2023 by Chick-In-Of-TheSea

[The endler guy]

On 4/14/2023 at 10:05 AM, Chick-In-Of-TheSea said:

Just curious, can snakes eat meats that humans eat (ie: chicken, beef, pork, etc..?)

@Odd Duck

I highly doubt it, but I lucky got some at my lfs

[Odd Duck]

On 4/14/2023 at 9:05 AM, Chick-In-Of-TheSea said:

Just curious, can snakes eat meats that humans eat (ie: chicken, beef, pork, etc..?)

@Odd Duck

I strongly recommend against feeding pure muscle meat.  One of the more common issues for snakes, and even more if a concern in other reptile species, is diets too low in calcium.  This is why they should eat whole prey, bones and all.  Muscle meat is extremely low in calcium.  Even with small snakes only big enough to eat pinkies, there are concerns that even whole prey is deficient because pinkies are lower in calcium than adult prey.  They likely get a bit of good old dirt in the wild and may get a bit of calcium from that as it passes through.  Plus there may be higher calcium ingests inside the prey item which will also get digested and absorbed as the prey item gets digested.  Often the smallest species of snakes kept are insectivorous and they should have their prey gut loaded and dusted with calcium powder.

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 4/14/2023 at 5:54 PM, Odd Duck said:

they should have their prey gut loaded and dusted with calcium powder.

I’ve seen my friend do this with her turtle’s crickets and worms. And just for fun, I will share her enjoying her Easter basket.

 

[The endler guy]

So I’m worried about my little dude because I haven’t seen him since Tuesday, and he hasn’t eaten since Tuesday last week

 

how should I precede

wait or dig through the substrate 

[CrashBandit05]

On 4/15/2023 at 6:26 PM, The endler guy said:

So I’m worried about my little dude because I haven’t seen him since Tuesday, and he hasn’t eaten since Tuesday last week

 

how should I precede

wait or dig through the substrate 

I'd just wait and give the noodle more time to adjust.  Idk if milksnakes are nocturnal, dinural, or what but maybe wait til the lights are off and see if you can see it moving about. 

[Odd Duck]

He’s probably full on blue or just past blue but not yet shed - their spectacles go clear right before shedding but their skin will still look slightly dull.  My guess is he’ll be out in another day or so and hungry post-shed.

[The endler guy]

What I’m really worried about is that he hasn’t eaten since the 4th

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 4/12/2023 at 8:38 AM, Guppysnail said:

Once they start to show she’d limit interactions as he will view it as a threat. 

Kind of like shrimp, how they feel vulnerable when molting. only bitey-er.

On 4/15/2023 at 8:21 PM, Odd Duck said:

but not yet shed

The photo of him poking his head out, he does look less colorful so the about to shed theory makes sense.  And the eyes are not as glassy as they were in the original pic.  How often do snakes shed?

I watch a lot of tarantula videos. The habitat looks very similar to a spider habitat. Except spiders do not require heat.

On 4/14/2023 at 5:54 PM, Odd Duck said:

I strongly recommend against feeding pure muscle meat.  One of the more common issues for snakes, and even more if a concern in other reptile species, is diets too low in calcium.  This is why they should eat whole prey, bones and all.  Muscle meat is extremely low in calcium.  Even with small snakes only big enough to eat pinkies, there are concerns that even whole prey is deficient because pinkies are lower in calcium than adult prey.  They likely get a bit of good old dirt in the wild and may get a bit of calcium from that as it passes through.  Plus there may be higher calcium ingests inside the prey item which will also get digested and absorbed as the prey item gets digested.  Often the smallest species of snakes kept are insectivorous and they should have their prey gut loaded and dusted with calcium powder.

I wonder if you can give a snake a chicken wing [unseasoned].  LOL

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 4/1/2023 at 12:09 PM, The endler guy said:

Today (my birthday)

I'm sorry I forgot to say it earlier - but Happy Birthday!

[Scapexghost]

On 4/2/2023 at 6:47 AM, PineSong said:

Since I went to elementary school in the land of venomous snakes (south Florida), seeing your new pet brought me right back to the annual lessons on the differences between milk and coral snakes. Glad you got the safe kind!

"Don't worry, it's just a milk snake."

- scapexghost's final words, 2072

[The endler guy]

When should I start worrying that I haven’t seen my little dude/ he hasn’t eaten for nearly a week

[CrashBandit05]

Maybe remove the hides and water dish, etc and see if the vibrations to his environment make him surface. When I would feed my KSB, taking those things out (just for safety reasons, I put the water dish and hides back) would cause him to surface and wait for the meal. 

[The endler guy]

My little dude is alright!

 

not only that look at this shed! Beautiful  

[Odd Duck]

Perfect shed!!!!  Lovely!  Did he eat yet?

[The endler guy]

On 4/19/2023 at 12:05 PM, Odd Duck said:

Perfect shed!!!!  Lovely!  Did he eat yet?

sadly not yet

from the looks of it he came out the right-side near the water bowl, went under the leaves in the middle and went back under ground through the log 

probably sleepy

[Odd Duck]

Should eat in the next day or so.

[The endler guy]

Any tips for getting my little guy to feed (he doesn’t even leave his tunnels so I can’t hold him or really even find him to give him his food)

[Odd Duck]

What’s the temp in the substrate, in his tunnels, and the basking site?  Were you able to get your basking site over 85’F?  It really should be closer to 95’F because damp substrate will usually run too chilly and they’ll slowly get sluggish.