Some plants are thriving while others are dying back?

[SFawcett]

My Java Fern and Vallisneria are dying back but my Cryptocoryn and Annubius have healthy new growth. I can't figure out what's wrong. Does anyone have a hypothesis?

I have a 25 gallon tank - approximately 24" x 12" x 20" with the following:

Light: Fluval Aquasky full brightness for 12 hours, 1.5 hour sun rise and sun set on either side. 

Substrate: Caribsea eco-complete bottom layer 1 year old from previous tank build, covered with Topfin aquarium gravel and Fluval stratum build up behind the stone. 

Hardscape: seiryu stone & congo wood

Plants: Vallisneriavall, Java fern, Java moss, Cryptocoryn, Annubius, Echinodorus Reni, Nymphoides hydrophylla 'Taiwan', and Limnobium laevigatum

Livestock: 1 Siamese algae eater, 1 bristle nose pleco, 3 pepper coys, 14 ember tetras, 1 juvenile angelfish, 2 amano shrimp, 3 nerite snails

Readings: Temp: 82  PH: 7.2 , Ammonia: 0 ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Nitrate: 10 ppm, GH: 75 ppm, KH: 120 ppm

 

Some of my plants are doing really well, mainly my annubius and cryptocoyn, but others are struggling. My javafern are turning black and melting back, and the Val is staying very short. Java moss is turning brown and dying. I dose 5 ml of seachem flourish on Tuesdays and 3 ml Saturdays. I'm getting a lot of green spot algae on the back and sides of the aquarium.

My best guess is that either the photo period is too long or that I'm missing a nutrient for the plants....maybe someone has a solution that has worked in the past or knows where my blind spot is? 

[Mmiller2001]

Are you dosing fertilizer?

[SFawcett]

 I dose 5 ml of seachem flourish on Tuesdays and 3 ml Saturdays.

[Mmiller2001]

Thank you.

Flourish is basically an ultra light micro mix and I still don't know what its application is for. Basically, you are dosing additional water to the tank. You want a good all in one fertilizer, preferably with lower Nitrates and iron DPTA chelated or a combination of EDTA and DPTA. 

I would lower your light intensity to around 50% and reduce duration to around 8 hours. 

Unless you have a specific fish requiring 82 degrees, I would lower to 76-78 degrees.

There's mulm in the tanks and this needs to be removed and increase water changes.

Moss like cooler water FYI.

Additional information:

Angel fish grow to 5 inches long and over 6 inches in height. Once they start getting bigger, they will most likely kill the Ember's.

[SFawcett]

Thanks, 

That explains why my java moss is doing so well in my desk tank with no heater. I'll bring the temp and light down. Do you have any recommendations for ferts? I'm in Canada so don't have access to Easy green. 

 

Thanks for the additional info. I'm aware of the risk I'm taking with the angel and embers. I'm hoping that having a decent size school and introducing them when it's very young that it will be fine. I plan to keep a close eye on it and I have another tank I can move them too if it doesn't work. I can always look at getting some Beckford pencilfish or a larger tetra. 

 

[Mmiller2001]

On 12/3/2022 at 12:48 PM, SFawcett said:

Do you have any recommendations for ferts? I'm in Canada so don't have access to Easy green. 

Can you get NilocG?

Or APT?

 

[SFawcett]

Yes to both. 

[Mmiller2001]

Personally, I would try the ATP over NilocG, But NilocG has a DPTA version. Let me do a bit of research and I will post back.

[Mmiller2001]

What PH does your tank run at?

[SFawcett]

7.2

[Mmiller2001]

Okay, I couldn't find ATP iron information. But can confirm NilocG OG has both EDTA and DPTA iron. I'd go with that. It's a bit high on Nitrates but not too bad.

One last option is to mix your own fertilizer, but requires measuring powder. It's also way cheaper to do it this way, but more effort.

[Jonsie_2]

Ohhh Aprils Aquarium is carring alot of Co-Ops stuff now !!!!

They are my fav place in Canada !