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Freshwater Aquarium Levels


Ryan1988
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Hey Gang,

This may be a noob question but what are proper aquarium water levels? The test kid "API" I have just gives parts per million but doesn't say what is good and what is bad. Also are their digital test kits? I don't know if its my color blindness but i'm having a hard time telling the difference in the different shades of the colors for example the nitrate goes from light pink to red. I can't tell if i'm at 20ppm or 40 ppm due to the shade. 

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On 6/18/2022 at 7:51 AM, Ryan1988 said:

Hey Gang,

This may be a noob question but what are proper aquarium water levels? The test kid "API" I have just gives parts per million but doesn't say what is good and what is bad. Also are their digital test kits? I don't know if its my color blindness but i'm having a hard time telling the difference in the different shades of the colors for example the nitrate goes from light pink to red. I can't tell if i'm at 20ppm or 40 ppm due to the shade. 

Good questions!

PH - freshwater variations are normal, depending on source water. 7.0 is neutral. Above that up to 8.2 is common. Below that to 6.0 is maybe a bit less common, bit still reasonably normal. Below 7.0 is “acidic.” Above 7.0 is “alkaline.” Below ca. 6.4, Ammonia converts to Ammonium and is slightly less toxic. Higher PH levels — 8.2-8.6 — Ammonia becomes toxic fast.

Ammonia (NH3) — Fish release this from respiration as well as waste. Some plants can immediately uptake it (especially floating plants). But normally, aerobic nitrosomonas bacteria colonies convert NH3 to Nitrite as an initial step in the Nitrogen cycle. Decaying plant matter as well as decaying fauna can release Ammonia. In a healthy aquarium, this should never _consistently_ read above 0 ppm. The API test kit should always appear yellow. It may be important to test source water for residual Ammonia. Drawing water into buckets, and allowing it to sit awhile (with an air-stone preferably) will tell a more accurate story.

Nitrite (NO2-) — represents the midway conversion in the Nitrogen cycle. Aerobic nitrobacter bacteria colonies convert Nitrite to Nitrate in an aquarium. Like Ammonia readings, in a healthy aquarium, API test kit should show a sky blue 0 ppm. Though less toxic than Ammonia, fish can be very stressed if this conversion is not complete.

Nitrate (NO3-) — This represents the final step in the nitrogen cycle. API tests will generally show a range from 5 ppm upward. Once levels reach 60 ppm+ fish can be stressed. Many aquarists aim for 0 ppm ideals, but realistically this is not normative. In nature, the volume of freshwater flowing through and massive amount of live plants dilutes and absorbs Nitrate. But in a home aquarium, it is very common for even a highly planted tank to slowly increase. There are disagreements between aquarists concerning the relative dangers of high Nitrate in a home aquarium. Because I breed a lot and typically have overstocked tanks, I am never shocked to see 60+ ppm Nitrate readings. The way to balance this out is to change water — 30%-50% every two weeks is normal routine for me. One note on API Nitrate test: there is an “agent” and a “reagent” bottle labeled (#1 and #2). You _must_ vigorously shake those bottles. Crystallization can knock their readings sideways unless you really shake before using.

Also, with all titration tests, shake the closed test tube, wait a full 5 minutes and then check in good, bright white light against a white backdrop to get a reliable reading. If you’re ever concerned about colorblindness, take a photo and upload next to the API color book here on the Forum. We’ll all chime in here to help.

Another important parameter you might want to be aware of is your water hardness. This is the amount of dissolved minerals in your water. You usually have to buy these as single separate test bottles. GH is general hardness — a spectrum of minerals represented. KH is Carbonate hardness. Thus represents calcium carbonate anions. The _lower_ your hardness, the _softer_ your water. Soft water is preferred by many Amazon fish. Harder water is liked by livebearers, Rainbowfish, and African Cichlids. Hard water will maintain its PH because the minerals act as “buffer” against the natural acid-slide brought on by buildup of humic acid as things decay in an aquarium. Soft water is prone to PH “crash” — sudden drop off from, say, 7.6 to 6.5. Many aquarists with soft water will try to stabilize KH & PH by adding crushed coral to their substrate, HOB, etc in a proportion of ca. 1-cup / 10 gal.

Well… that reply got long… 😂

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On 6/18/2022 at 7:57 AM, Fish Folk said:

Hard water will maintain its PH because the minerals act as “buffer” against the natural acid-slide brought on by buildup of humic acid as things decay in an aquarium. Soft water is prone to PH “crash” — sudden drop off from, say, 7.6 to 6.5. Many aquarists with soft water will try to stabilize KH & PH

I'd just like to clarify for the OP that the hardness you're referring to here is only the KH, not the GH. Several areas of the US have crazy high GH but still very low KH and PH.

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Thank you all for the replies. Yeah my GH is HARD as high as it can go but the glow fish seem to have no issue with it. nor the nerite snails or pleco. The Nitrite is 0 and i think the nitrate is 20  or 40 ppm, i can't really tell as the shade of pink is subtle. I haven't done a water change in about 4 weeks now so if it is 20 ppm, it would seem it is self sustaining now.

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