Newby needs help with parameters

[Kelly]

I am confused when reading the results of my testing kit.  My API reads as follows (remember, I don't think it is done cycling) PH 7.4, PH high range 8.4,  AMMONIA .20, NITRITE 2.0, NITRATE 5.0.   

MY TEST STRIPS:  PH 7.2, CLORINE 0, HARDNESS 300, NITRITE 10, NITRATE 20,  AMMONIA 0.

I tested twice with API.  I'm not sure how to compare the two or if it is even necessary.   I am really confused about API high range ph ( it has never been that high) and nitrites and nitrates.   Should I do a water change or wait and let it continue to cycle?  

My betta seems to be very happy.  I would like to add 6 cherry barbs but hesitate to do anything until I can make sense of my testing.

[ADMWNDSR83]

What brand are your test strips?  I think some brands are less reliable than others.

[Ken Burke]

@Kelly your readings are a little confusing. I would tank a sample to lfs.  They should offer complimentary testing, and maybe they can walk you through things.  
 

of course, it could just be some wonkiness with the tests, but since they likely test water all the time they can help pin point any issues or concerns.   

[KoolFish97]

I will say this is part of the hardest issues with multiple test brands with different standardized error margins. Some will be more precise then others. I absolutely second another opinion from a good solid LFS just to back you up. But in reality the general opinion (not just of fish people but water science proffesionals) is that liquids are generally are more reliable as the error marigin is less (this is changing with technology and many scientists are far past both technologies as they use light colourimeters spectrometers etc) 

My advice would be go of the more reliable liquid one. (Unless your test strips you use are known to be good quality) I would also assume the worst one is correct to be on the side of caution but this is where a second opinion really helps. 

I will say though I have used a API test kit where the ammonia always read a slight green-yellow no matter what source of water (I tried multiple tanks RO water tap water Rain water everything I could). 

Get a second opinion and then check yourself against your results with the closest one I would trust more. Then just keep a good eye on it regularly just doing maintenace checks from here on out.

About the pH. It is a little confusing but I'll try to help you get it.  Always start with the normal pH. If the test is any of the colours EXCEPT the bright blue (7.4) then it's that pH. 

If it reads bright blue (7.4) check the High range pH. If the test kit is light brown (7.4) then your water 7.4 if it reads anything higher than that is your pH. Remember a steady pH is better for nearly all fish then chasing a number all my tanks run as 7.4 and it's never caused me any issues in my fish keeping

Sorry for the long message!! 

[KoolFish97]

Also to add. Remember to RINSE THE TEST TUBES each time. Not just in the tap water but flush them with tank water a couple of times. I've had people panic about 8.4 pH when it turned out to be the residual hard hot tap water they cleaned it out with mixing with their water and throwing the test out. Rinsed it a couple of times in their water and then all looks normal again. 

It's a super common practice in any scientific water sampling even with brand new water containers to rinse no less than 3 times before taking water to test. 

[tolstoy21]

2 hours ago, KoolFish97 said:

Also to add. Remember to RINSE THE TEST TUBES each time. Not just in the tap water but flush them with tank water a couple of times. I've had people panic about 8.4 pH when it turned out to be the residual hard hot tap water they cleaned it out with mixing with their water and throwing the test out.

Been there. Done that mistake.
Now, I always flush my tubes with tank water once, empty them out, then refill them with more tank water before testing.

If you're filling them with a plastic pipette, do the same. Clean it out with the water you're going to be testing with.

I find the API Ph test to be the most sensitive to residual water from a different source.

2 hours ago, KoolFish97 said:

I will say though I have used a API test kit where the ammonia always read a slight green-yellow no matter what source of water (I tried multiple tanks RO water tap water Rain water everything I could). 

I will second this observation as well. 

Edited October 18, 2020 by tolstoy21

[tolstoy21]

16 hours ago, Kelly said:

I tested twice with API.  I'm not sure how to compare the two or if it is even necessary.   I am really confused about API high range ph ( it has never been that high) and nitrites and nitrates.   Should I do a water change or wait and let it continue to cycle?  

@Kelly I find that I get variant readings if I use two different products like the API drop test vs the API or tetra strip tests.

After you use one or the other a lot, you get good at interpreting the readings.

With the strips I'm just interested in the trend (and the convenience of using them). Is nitrate going up? Is nitrite suddenly registering on the strip? Is my Ph suddenly very different from the last time I tested?

I don't trust these to be super accurate, but I do trust they will show me changes over time, when compared to the last reading I took with them. I then use the API liquid tests to get a better, somewhat more accurate reading because I have come to trust these the most, personally.

In general I'm ok with any test getting me in the ballpark of what the real measurement of something is. My personal feeling is that being approximately kind of accurate is a good enough measurement for the majority of aquariums. As important as that is understanding sudden changes from a prior reading.

The difference between 2 and 10 nitrite and 5 and 20 nitrate seems like a huge difference. However, the reading on one of your test products vs the other seems to be a 4-5x difference. Could these products just use different scales? Don't know. Just a thought. Maybe not?

Either way, the important take away from this is you're showing nitrite, so I'd hold off on adding fish until that reading is closer to zero on either test. 

Any maybe hold off on a water change so your nitrifying bacteria colonies grow and get established  so you have them present in enough numbers to process nitrite when fish arrive.

Even if your tests are off, your numbers in regards to nitrites should start to trend downward. And if they do, that's a sign the cycle is continuing as it should in the right direction. Nitrates as a result should trend upwards, and when nitrites are close to zero, but nitrates are higher, then water change to get nitrates to a reasonable level and add fish!

Edited October 18, 2020 by tolstoy21

[Kelly]

Thanks for all of the info.  I found something I could use in every response.  For instance, I am rinsing my API test tubes in tap water only.  I will follow the advice of rinsing them in tank water after I rinse them in tap water.

I will be using my Tetra Easy Strips only to see if there are big fluctuations, and rely on API Test Kit for more accurate levels.  

I will hold off on the water change I was planning today and let my filter continue to cycle while monitoring the water.

As always, I so appreciate all of you.  I would be lost without this Forum .