Do I have enough light?

[santiagopalomares01]

I have a few mid-high light requiring plants but I'm not sure if the reason I've been having so much continued melting is because my lights aren't good enough. I get algae and they don't seem like they're totally dying but they don't seem as good as they should be. My light is 20 watts, 990 lumens, and my tank is a 29 gallon. 

 

[SkaleyAquatics]

Without knowing your par or what kinda light you actually have it is hard to say. But what plants are melting?

[ange]

Melting isn't necessarily due to lack of light. Especially if the plants are new, it's common for them to melt back because farms grow the plants emersed.

You will need a PAR meter to know how much light your plants are getting. Wattage/lumens aren't enough because those are more related to the amount of power or visible light emitted. They also ignore variables like where the light goes (are there dark spots in the tank or does the light spill past the tank, etc). Knowing even the brand of light can help as many users have submitted data using PAR meters in their own tanks. Irene has done some experiments with the Finnex Stingrays and a PAR meter in her tanks, but she's far from the only one. They're quite spendy so most users rent them rather than purchasing.

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 4/25/2022 at 3:27 PM, santiagopalomares01 said:

I have a few mid-high light requiring plants but I'm not sure if the reason I've been having so much continued melting is because my lights aren't good enough. I get algae and they don't seem like they're totally dying but they don't seem as good as they should be. My light is 20 watts, 990 lumens, and my tank is a 29 gallon.

Hi @santiagopalomares01

Welcome to CARE!

I downloaded, enhanced, and enlarged your picture and don't see any obvious nutrient deficiencies and the plants don't look bad.  Could you answer a few questions please?

Is that 20 watt fixture on your 29 gallon LED or fluorescent?

What are you dosing for nutrients?  How much each time you dose?  How often?

Are you doing weekly water changes?  How much?  How often?

Do you have any water parameter information?  pH, dKH, dGH, nitrates (ppm)

 -Roy

 

[santiagopalomares01]

I'm just dosing seachem flourish + seachem advanced. The light is 20 watt LED, I dose every water change, I water change once a week and 2 days about 33%,my pH is 7.4, unfortunately I don't have anything to measure my KH is 180, and my GH is 180 (not sure how accurate test strips are for this) my nitrates appear to be 10ppm.

I have yellowing leaves on some Lugia and curling leaves on a pogostemon stellatus octopus.

On 4/25/2022 at 6:40 PM, SkaleyAquatics said:

Without knowing your par or what kinda light you actually have it is hard to say. But what plants are melting? I've added some more info

 

On 4/25/2022 at 7:04 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @santiagopalomares01

Welcome to CARE!

I downloaded, enhanced, and enlarged your picture and don't see any obvious nutrient deficiencies and the plants don't look bad.  Could you answer a few questions please?

Is that 20 watt fixture on your 29 gallon LED or fluorescent?

What are you dosing for nutrients?  How much each time you dose?  How often?

Are you doing weekly water changes?  How much?  How often?

Do you have any water parameter information?  pH, dKH, dGH, nitrates (ppm)

 -Roy

 

I've added some info

On 4/25/2022 at 6:43 PM, ange said:

Melting isn't necessarily due to lack of light. Especially if the plants are new, it's common for them to melt back because farms grow the plants emersed.

You will need a PAR meter to know how much light your plants are getting. Wattage/lumens aren't enough because those are more related to the amount of power or visible light emitted. They also ignore variables like where the light goes (are there dark spots in the tank or does the light spill past the tank, etc). Knowing even the brand of light can help as many users have submitted data using PAR meters in their own tanks. Irene has done some experiments with the Finnex Stingrays and a PAR meter in her tanks, but she's far from the only one. They're quite spendy so most users rent them rather than purchasing.

Thank you this is very insightful. How long do plants normally take to settle in? I've had mine for about 2-3 weeks.

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @santiagopalomares01

Seachem Flourish Advance has no nitrogen.  Seachem Flourish Comprehensive has mostly micro-nutrients but very little nitrogen.  I suspect that a lack of nitrogen may be your problem, especially if along with those yellowish leaves you are experiencing slow growth.  Pick up an API Nitrate Test Kit, follow the instructions, and see if you really have 10 ppm of nitrates.  -Roy

[santiagopalomares01]

On 4/25/2022 at 10:01 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @santiagopalomares01

Seachem Flourish Advance has no nitrogen.  Seachem Flourish Comprehensive has mostly micro-nutrients but very little nitrogen.  I suspect that a lack of nitrogen may be your problem, especially if along with those yellowish leaves you are experiencing slow growth.  Pick up an API Nitrate Test Kit, follow the instructions, and see if you really have 10 ppm of nitrates.  -Roy

I have used the api freshwater test kit for that. I think the nitrate that I do have is from root tabs. 

I'll look into adding more nitrate tho how much should I aim for ?

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 4/25/2022 at 11:25 PM, santiagopalomares01 said:

I have used the api freshwater test kit for that. I think the nitrate that I do have is from root tabs. 

I'll look into adding more nitrate tho how much should I aim for ?

Hi @santiagopalomares01

Sorry, I did not see where you mentioned using tabs, which tabs are you using?  When you said "Seachem Flourish" above did you mean the tabs or Seachem Flourish Comprehensive the liquid? -Roy

[santiagopalomares01]

On 4/26/2022 at 8:17 AM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @santiagopalomares01

Sorry, I did not see where you mentioned using tabs, which tabs are you using?  When you said "Seachem Flourish" above did you mean the tabs or Seachem Flourish Comprehensive the liquid? -Roy

I had forgotten to mention but I use both the liquid and tabs under my sword plant.

[santiagopalomares01]

What signs would I see from having too little light ? Because I also have some green spot algae.

 

[FrozenFins]

On 4/26/2022 at 1:10 PM, santiagopalomares01 said:

What signs would I see from having too little light ? Because I also have some green spot algae.

 

Yellowing leaves may be a sign of having too little light. Green spot algae if anything would mean too much light. However, I wouldnt worry about it. Your plants look great! If your plants are doing great (and they are) there isn't a need to change the nutrients.

 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 4/26/2022 at 10:33 AM, santiagopalomares01 said:

I had forgotten to mention but I use both the liquid and tabs under my sword plant.

OK, Seachem Flourish Tabs also are a low nitrogen product. 

On 4/26/2022 at 11:10 AM, santiagopalomares01 said:

What signs would I see from having too little light ? Because I also have some green spot algae.

 

The most common sign of insufficient light is extended 'internodes' (basically the distance between where the leaves emerge from the stem).  You do not have this happening in your tank......your internodes are fine.  As for the most common cause of GSA (green spot algae) it would be insufficient available phosphorus. 

Here is what I suggest.  Get yourself a good All-in-One fertilizer.  If your pH was below 6.8 I would recommend Aquarium Co-op Easy Green but with a pH of 7.4 I suggest nilocg.com Thrive C which uses DTPA chelated iron which is more available with a pH higher than 6.8.

Continue dosing the current nutrients at the levels you are dosing now.  Do not change your light settings or photoperiod (duration).  Just start adding the Thrive C as directed.  Watch your new growth as it emerges and matures.....DO NOT WATCH EXISTING LEAVES THEY WILL NOT CHANGE.  Do the new leaves look greener, healthier, did the growth rate seem to increase?  If so you are on the right path.  Hope this helps! -Roy

[santiagopalomares01]

On 4/26/2022 at 12:12 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

OK, Seachem Flourish Tabs also are a low nitrogen product. 

The most common sign of insufficient light is extended 'internodes' (basically the distance between where the leaves emerge from the stem).  You do not have this happening in your tank......your internodes are fine.  As for the most common cause of GSA (green spot algae) it would be insufficient available phosphorus. 

Here is what I suggest.  Get yourself a good All-in-One fertilizer.  If your pH was below 6.8 I would recommend Aquarium Co-op Easy Green but with a pH of 7.4 I suggest nilocg.com Thrive C which uses DTPA chelated iron which is more available with a pH higher than 6.8.

Continue dosing the current nutrients at the levels you are dosing now.  Do not change your light settings or photoperiod (duration).  Just start adding the Thrive C as directed.  Watch your new growth as it emerges and matures.....DO NOT WATCH EXISTING LEAVES THEY WILL NOT CHANGE.  Do the new leaves look greener, healthier, did the growth rate seem to increase?  If so you are on the right path.  Hope this helps! -Roy

Thank you so much 🙏 I'll try this.