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Since starting Easy Green and root tabs, I can finally keep a few plants alive: swords and crypts doing very well, Java ferns not so much and Anubis caked with black algae that is flat and invades the leaves. Before, I could keep my nitrates to 30-40 with weekly 25% water changes. Since adding root tabs and dosing Easy Green once weekly after water changes, my nitrates are climbing to 100. What should I do?

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On 3/29/2022 at 9:11 PM, GreenCircleGirl said:

swords and crypts doing very well, Java ferns not so much and Anubis caked with black algae that is flat and invades the leaves. Before, I could keep my nitrates to 30-40 with weekly 25% water changes. Since adding root tabs and dosing Easy Green once weekly after water changes, my nitrates are climbing to 100. What should I do?

Everything mentioned isn't really going to need a ton of easy green. The plants that are not swords/crypts will be slow growing and won't excessively grow by dosing more.  You should only need to dose about 50% of the tank volume per week.  If you have a 20G tank, dose once a week with 1 pump, and then see how the numbers change. Nitrates above 40, is an automatic water change until you get the numbers under control.  You might need to do this every 24 or 48 hours until you have it under control. Test the water every 12-24 hours so you can verify the water changes are helping.

A few things I would suggest....

Firstly, is to verify all of the root tabs are deep enough in the substrate. If they aren't, they could be leeching and causing the high numbers. (someone from Aquarium Co-Op, we would really appreciate some experienced use and verification on that comment).

Secondly, If you don't see nitrates lower after 48 hours, dose salt (or move the fish temporarily) and then go ahead and pull 1/2 of the root tabs you have in the water. The reason for this is just that you might have placed too many.  I would think you only need 1-2 per each sword or crypt and no other plants would need any.

Third, please report back with your light, lighting schedule, and parameters for the light.

Note: Anubias and and java fern are very slow growers and prefer indirect sunlight. Some plants are labeled as "lowlight" but most anubias and plants that grow extremely slow prefer to be in off-direction / shaded areas of the tank. Generally, if the plant has wide broad leaves that is how to view it, but there are some variations to that rule. I would make sure the plant is overhead on the sword / crypts and that the anubias and fern is indirectly lit.  They can be under the light, but you would simply need to adjust the lighting settings / schedule accordingly.

Finally, if you have any issues with the BBA longer term, I highly recommend adding some amano shrimp.

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This is REALLY helpful. I pushed the tabs all the way down, but it sounds like I used way too many.  My 75 gallon planted tank has a Fluval Plant, my 125 gallon Oscar tank has jungle Val and Crinum and a Fluval Plant light but only root tabs. My 40 breeder planted has an off brand light for planted tanks from Amazon. 

The lights are on a timer for 6 hours per day. 

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On 3/29/2022 at 9:41 PM, GreenCircleGirl said:

My 75 gallon planted tank has a Fluval Plant, my 125 gallon Oscar tank has jungle Val and Crinum and a Fluval Plant light but only root tabs. My 40 breeder planted has an off brand light for planted tanks from Amazon. 

125G you wont necessarily need high light, but based on what the schedule is (and intensity) you can get a pretty good balance with the lighting needs compared to the root tab needs. Jungle val loves to grow and depending how you run the light will change up what the plant wants.

I think this video will be a big help to you, please be sure to tag me / ask if you have any further specific questions 🙂
 

 

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