Cable and Hose Management

[Greg Stewart]

Inspired by a few things from another thread, I figured I'd start a proper Cable/Hose Management discussion so we can share our ideas on how to tame the rat's nest of wires and tubing we so often neglect after spending countless hours making the insides of our aquariums look beautiful.

I've decided to do this in a few installments, since things are a bit busy for me right now. I'll start by listing a bunch of random stuff, and then I'll add photos of my own controlled mess to show examples of how some of this stuff can be used.

I apply my experience in the IT sector to this, so I'm used to coiling cables into neat spirals, lining them up and tying them into tight, orderly bundles, even cutting them to the perfect length so they flat next to each other in pretty patterned mosaics of bendy rainbow lines. I'm not quite that OCD with my aquarium tether management, but I try to make the visible stuff as neat and orderly as possible. 

What I have lined up to add here is the "home improvement" version of the really 'spensive IT management products that you buy only if have a ton of cash to burn (with the exception of the Southwire conduit system, which is pretty well affordable "professional" gear). 

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When I plan the management of my aquarium cables and hoses, I put them in two basic categories:

Permanent - would be any infrequently accessed or moved cables and lines that can be glued or bolted into place so they don't shift, shake, wiggle, vibrate, or dance, in any unexpected fashion, until we crowbar them out of place.

Accessible - would be frequently or semi-frequently moved cables and lines that need a flexible method of access for regular cleaning or whatever other reason you might want to obsess over moving things around.

Some of the toys I'll list kinda' fall into both categories of use. Some of them need a little TLC if using as "accessible" as form-moulded PVC plastic has a tendency discolour and/or snap if you bend it too much too frequently.

Then I have two basic target styles of management:

Presentable - which would be anything used to hide wires, air tubes, and hoses that would poke out in various unsightly directions in my living room.

Industrial - which would cover any less than "pretty", rough cut, plastic-y, colour coded, DayGlo orange, highly noticeable, "business" cable wrangling (e.g., stuff inside the cabinet, under the floor boards, behind the scenes under fish room plenums, etc.).

When tacking cables to furniture and walls there are two basic mounting options: adhesive mounts and wood screw/bolt mounts. I recommend only using adhesive mounts in locations were screws are not an option (tank rims, metal stand legs, and other things you might get in trouble for if you put a hole in it). Some of the toys actually offer both options.

Adhesive mounts can be finicky for "accessible" wrangling or in locations that get lots of moisture (under a tank hood, for instance), they can wiggle free in very little time. So, plan your cable travel and your anchor points with that in mind. Also consider the surface you're sticking things to in case you decide to remove it in the future. Many adhesives will peel paint and furniture finishes when removed--especially the ones that actually work. So, Grandma's antique nightstand is probably a no-go.

Also, for the adhesive anchors, consider the weight and/or tension of the stuff you're hanging with them and get the appropriate size to hold your lines, or use multiple smaller ones to distribute the weight/tension evenly, in separate, adjacent runs, if you need to.

And, when planning your management of lines connected to things you move or maintain regularly (e.g., lamp, canister filter, etc.), plan for enough slack in your lines so you don't have to undo too many cable ties to get something done. I usually keep the runs reasonably tight out in the open for most things to keep it clean, and then leave the slack under the cabinet where no one will see it--with the exception of my lamps, where is leave just enough wiggle in the line to move them the distance I need. if you don't have cabinet doors behind which you can hide your skeletons, Velcro-tied loops and some other cable-engulfing toys can be your friend to keep things tidy. 

I'll list a bunch of ties, wraps, straps, clips, fasteners, and other mundane mystical miscellany trying to keep to what's available on Amazon and Home Depot, just for convenience ('cuz, that's where I'd go). A lot of these things, or very similar things, should be easy enough to find in Lowe's, Ace, or any other hardware supply and home improvement places, as well.

I have not actually used *all* of these things, myself. I just don't have enough hoses, cables, or even aquariums, for my OCD to kick in that severely. But, I've used the majority of the industrial counterparts to these products, and they all pretty much work the same.

Edited February 14, 2022 by Greg Stewart

[Greg Stewart]

Adhesive Plastic Organisers  

The first two toys in this list are convenient organisational clips that I consider "presentable" and will hold multiple cables or airlines. The first is partitioned for neater cable guiding, but it's also a bit wider. The second has an open channel, but this provides less ability to keep things in a pretty line if out in the open.

Being adhesive, they're on the "permanent" end of the spectrum. So, consult Granny before using her furniture for this.

Both of these are made from semi-flexible PVC material, which can be used on lines that you might access frequently, but keep in mind that the more you bend these the more they will weaken and discolour at the bend. Bend them too much, and eventually they'll come apart.

They are sold as adhesive only, but can be drilled for use with wood screws if needed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G95XJ28/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RQCXCR2/

Similar to the first two, these little clips are good for one or two skinny wires, or a single airline sized dangly thing, and are better as adhesive only (no easy way to drill a presentable hole in them). 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y4ZYRQ3/

The next is a reasonably presentable inline mounting clip that is suitable for thicker power cords or airline hoses. These are made of semi-transparent plastic which is not too tolerant of frequent bending, so i consider them "less accessible". These would serve best for lines you don't plan to move frequently.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CN3RPGH/

The next adhesive mount combo is great for smaller lines that you do need to move more frequently, but don't want to have to fiddle with a clip lock for (especially in harder to reach places). You can just press the line in and pull it out when you need it. These may not be appropriate for super flexible hoses, though, as the hose may wear from the friction through the clip tabs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FXZBMV/

For longer runs of hidden line management, these J-channel raceways will hold a decent sized bundle of lines, and if you shove the lines into the channel in the right order, they're not too difficult to use for frequently accessed lines. They do need at least 2 1/4" of solid matter to stick to, though--unless you're handy with a saw to trim it down a bit. They can be used horisontally or vertically, but be sure to place the open side away from the direction of tension on the lines (or, your wires may just fall out).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZPYP7Y/

Metal stuff, and some more plastic

The following two braces are much more industrial in appearance. They require holes, and they make sure things stay put. Both the R-clamps and wire tacks come in various sizes and if you get the right inner diameter for your cable or hose, it's not going anywhere at all without some light equipment.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWKG1KT/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYXY8RL/

"Looms" (what?)

When using smaller mounts, you may have the need to hide bundles of lines for the distance between the mounts. These mesh wire loom tubes are great for wrapping around those dangling bundles of cords, turning them into a single length of neat and presentable blackness (I actually use this stuff all over the place). Just cut the length you need, hold the end open and melt the frayed mesh with a lighter to keep it from coming apart (it comes with instructions, fire extinguisher not included), and then squeeze the wires inside. It can hold some pretty big bundles if you need, like an anaconda after a capybara buffet. Lines can also exit the loom at any point and the loom will still hold together.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW3MKGH/

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Still to come: Velcro and tie wraps, tie downs, and various tube & hose clips, for all your sadistic fish needs.

Edited February 14, 2022 by Greg Stewart

[Guppysnail]

Thanks. Please say the more to come has something to hide the actual power strips. My stands are all open bottom. (Pay no attention to the monster behind the curtains Dorothy ROFL). 

[Greg Stewart]

@Guppysnail  I'll make sure to add that 😉

I did try to find an image of a truly ugly Minnie Mouse bed skirt to post for you, but apparently the Universe doesn't like that sort of humour.

 

[Torrey]

On 2/14/2022 at 4:30 PM, Greg Stewart said:

@Guppysnail  I'll make sure to add that 😉

I did try to find an image of a truly ugly Minnie Mouse bed skirt to post for you, but apparently the Universe doesn't like that sort of humour.

 

🤣🤣🤣ORD

On 2/14/2022 at 3:47 PM, Greg Stewart said:

apply my experience in the IT sector to this, so I'm used to coiling cables into neat spirals, lining them up and tying them into tight, orderly bundles, even cutting them to the perfect length so they flat next to each other in pretty patterned mosaics of bendy rainbow lines. I'm not quite that OCD with my aquarium tether management, but I try to make the visible stuff as neat and orderly as possible. 

Former rigger... much easier to make the pigtails on pars look presentable than the gazillion cords and airline tubes that run my tanks, lol.

So I have the cords behind a black insulation curtain.

You're right! Former electrical experience does come in handy!!!

[Greg Stewart]

Cable and Hose Management Installment Number Two: The Second Half

We begin today's OCD journey with the perfect alternative to tying shoelaces: Velcro.

Hook & Loop Stuff

Whether it's a brand name or generic hook & loop strap, these things are versatile, easy to handle, and reusable. You can wrap cables and hoses you know you'll need to unwind at times without the need to snip plastic tie wraps or battle the ever-confusing wire twist tie.

The first toy, Velcro brand wraps, is a bag of pre-cut wraps with a slot at one end to make cinching and wrapping a snap. You can cinch the the wrap onto a cord or hose, and leave it there, even when you unwrap the line, to have the Velcro wrap right where you need it when you want to coil it all up again.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/

Hook & loop wraps also come in cut-to-size bulk lengths. These come in three different widths (1cm, 1/2", 3/4"), the thinnest of which works well with the next toy.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095PNTVJ4/

Self adhesive saddle mounts can be used with plastic tie wraps or hook & loop wraps when you want to anchor a bundle in place. These work best with thin wraps. They can also be mounted with wood screws to give them a better chance at staying where you put them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M198RKY/

An inexpensive all-in-one option, that's probably better for hidden locations holding up lighter lines, is this self-adhesive plastic mount with an attached ladder strap. These should not be used for frequently moved lines, as the more you un-snap the ladder strap, the weaker it'll get.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NQD8K2M/

And, of course, there's the all purpose Zip Tie tie wrap. Amazon will send you nearly a thousand of them, in nearly as many sizes, almost dirt cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TBL1GM4/

For a slightly more accessible, but more industrial looking option, these hook & loop strap hangers work well with a screw hook, or even just a plain old nail. You can also see them from miles away.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NSLSNY7/

Conduit Stuff

The next set of toys are best for fish rooms with a lot of lines to manage on walls or wall studs. This is actually an electrical conduit management system, but the snap-in mounting clips and strip channels can make organising heavier gauge wires, hoses, and even PVC pipe, look like you paid someone to do it for you.

The downside to the Southwire conduit system is that you have to buy it in bags of 100, so if you only need 2 clips for your canister filter hoses, it's probably best to go in with some friends, or hunt down extra projects around the house that could use some serious conduit clips. The following clips can be wall/stud mounted with wood screws, or they can be snapped into a channel strip that can hold up to 20 clips at a time.

1/2" clip: https://www.homedepot.com/p/203353957
3/4" clip: https://www.homedepot.com/p/203353959
  1" clip: https://www.homedepot.com/p/203353961

channel strip: https://www.homedepot.com/p/203353951

If you have 2x4 or 2x6 studs, Southwire offers these stud straps that can handle 4 smaller lines at a time.

2x4 stud strap: https://www.homedepot.com/p/203353963
2x6 stud strap: https://www.homedepot.com/p/203353945

below are some alternatives to the Southwire clip system that work in the same way.

5/8" PEX clip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XPTFMNP/
3/4" PEX clip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XPV779J/
1/2" PEX clip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003QSNWTY/
3/4" PEX clip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W87VRZ4/

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And, now, the moment that @Guppysnail has been waiting for. Drum roll please...

Covering Up That Power Strip

Hiding that beastly mess of tangled wires, plugs, and power bricks is right around the corner: in Boxes. Yup, it's just a box.

There are several options for power strip boxes, from basic black or white plastic boxes, to plastic faux wood laminated things, to actual wood boxes. They all have slots at either end for the wires to go in and out, and they all do one thing: hide the mess.

I do actually recommend one over the rest, though: the D-Line box. Why? 'Cuz it has more holes in more places to allow for better cooling. Yes, you can drill holes in any of the others to get the same heat dissipation, but the D-Line is also (currently) the least expensive of the options. I actually have one of the D-Line boxes, myself. If you really need something fancy, and can cut a straight line with a saw, you can make your own following the basic designs in the mass manufactured toys below.

PRO TIP: Measure the length and width of your power strip and add at least 1 1/2" to each measurement. plug all your garbage into it, and measure the *height* from the bottom of the strip to the bend in the wires (without packing the wires down--let them bend comfortably). Make sure your mess will fit comfortably into the box you want with enough room around everything for air to flow. Power strips can over load, over heat, and catch fire, especially when kept in small enclosed boxes (which is why I like the extra holes).

D-Line:     https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00846FO0I/
Bluelounge: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019T0JA2/
D-Moose:   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HMZQBC/
Teyga:     https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782YJ4DV/
HTB:       https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0919QH1BH/

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In the next installment: The dreaded photo album of my own stuff.

Edited February 19, 2022 by Greg Stewart

[Guppysnail]

🥰VELCRO🥰. Even I am skilled enough 🤣 to use Velcro.  Zip ties I have by the thousands (just look inside my tanks 🤣) And the d line boxes just went on my shopping list. I have to measure first. Thanks again for taking the time to share all this info. I really appreciate it. 🤗

edit out of reactions 😍😍😍😍

Edited February 19, 2022 by Guppysnail

[DaveO]

I'm really liking the cable management box. Thanks for the tip.

[Greg Stewart]

Cable and Hose Management Installment Number Three: The Third Half

The Dreaded Photo Album

There's a good reason I didn't pursue a career in graphic design or document labeling. But, I did my best to make these photos and the labels on them as minimally horrendous as I could.

Since my daughter and I rebuilt the 5 gallon for the "Scapes from Scraps" thingie, and it's small enough to move, I used everything I had done for that for the bulk of this dog and pony show. At the end I'll add the example of essentially the same thing i did on my 38 gallon a while ago.

The 5 gallon happens to sit upon a small antique side table, so I avoided using any adhesive toys or wood screw mounts on it 😉

Since I don't use background paper on my tanks, I route my lines as close to the ends of the tanks as possible to keep the middle of the aquascape nice and clear. inside the tanks, I also put heaters and air stone lines at the ends, so the internal and external "stuff" take up as much of the same "restricted" visual space as possible.

In the first photo, I have adhesive clips stuck to the black rim on the tank to guide everything to the sides. Then I bundled all the wires so that they end up all the same length from the corner of the tank all the way to the power strip, adjusting the two lamp switches to they line up together. I use tie wraps under the loom since I have no plans to move these things often.

On the other side, I use the adhesive clips to hold the airline in place, and then I created a drip loop using a Velcro strap on the airline, and creatively slung the USB air pump wire over part of the table so I could hook the carabiner over it's own power wire as a hanger. In the second photo, you can sort of see how I kept power and airline away from each other so water can't drip onto the air pump or its power connection.
 

In the next photo, you can see the entire thing after I wrap the wires in the loom tube.

The loom tube makes it possible to have wires exit at any point for directing them to different locations, keeping slack available, or even exposing inline switches.

At the other end of the loom tube is the power strip box.

I cut the loom tube long enough so that the wrapped wire bundle enters the box as one bundle. This helps keep the loom in place over the wires entering the box for a cleaner look.

Cutting the loom long enough to enter the box also makes sure that the loom tube is included in the "drip loop" created by the rise of the bundle entering the box through the elevated opening. The D-Line box that I use has a solid moulded base that lifts the side slots above the floor. In the event of a spill, water cannot get into the box until it's at least a full inch deep. I can put adhesive rubber feet on the bottom of the box to increase that if I wish.

This loom tube is a made of a wide nylon mesh. While water may travel inside it on a vertical run, as soon as there is a bend in the loom, water will rapidly dump out through the mesh. So, there is no worry of the water traveling through the loom into the power strip box. (I've tested it, it works).

When it's all closed up, it looks nice and tidy.

Edited February 20, 2022 by Greg Stewart

[Greg Stewart]

My 38 gallon is done in the same way, although it's on an enclosed cabinet which hides all the gear and wires inside and behind it.

On the left and right ends of the tank, I have the canister filter tubes bundled in looms along with the airlines, power wires for the heater and lamps, and the thermocouple leads for my temp controller. Since the outflow and intake tubes of the Fluval canister are black (mostly), from the front of the tank the black loom makes it all appear like a single tube at either end.

Below the top of the cabinet, I have two angle brackets I secure to the 2x4 bracing I built (I don't trust the strength of the cabinet), and I tie wrapped the loom bundles to those angle brackets to keep them in line with the ends of the tank. I never move these lines, so black tie-wraps work fine for me, here. And, at this point everything feeds behind the cabinet, so it's all hidden from view except at the very side.

Inside the cabinet everything is exposed, but still bundled neatly, or secured out the way until needed. My outflow hose is a little long with the inline CO2 and clear tubing I added to monitor gunk accumulation for maintenance. So, I have a screw eye in the 2x3 bracing at the top where I use Velcro to hang the outflow hose until I need to clean the filter. I also have my CO2 line Velcro wrapped neatly until I need to move the generator can out of the way.

Deeper inside the cabinet, I have a small UPS hanging on the 2x4 bracing to keep it above water level if I ever have a spill.

And, that's pretty much it for how I keep my mess under control. I guess, after looking back at what I've typed, it's possibly a lot to do, but once it's done it rarely needs to be touched again.

[Anon]

Zip ties and sticky backs from an electrical supply store are useful for "permanent" wire organization. Just don't put the sticky backs on painted surfaces. 

[Torrey]

On 2/20/2022 at 3:56 PM, Greg Stewart said:

Cable and Hose Management Installment Number Three: The Third Half

The Dreaded Photo Album

There's a good reason I didn't pursue a career in graphic design or document labeling. But, I did my best to make these photos and the labels on them as minimally horrendous as I could.

Since my daughter and I rebuilt the 5 gallon for the "Scapes from Scraps" thingie, and it's small enough to move, I used everything I had done for that for the bulk of this dog and pony show. At the end I'll add the example of essentially the same thing i did on my 38 gallon a while ago.

The 5 gallon happens to sit upon a small antique side table, so I avoided using any adhesive toys or wood screw mounts on it 😉

Since I don't use background paper on my tanks, I route my lines as close to the ends of the tanks as possible to keep the middle of the aquascape nice and clear. inside the tanks, I also put heaters and air stone lines at the ends, so the internal and external "stuff" take up as much of the same "restricted" visual space as possible.

In the first photo, I have adhesive clips stuck to the black rim on the tank to guide everything to the sides. Then I bundled all the wires so that they end up all the same length from the corner of the tank all the way to the power strip, adjusting the two lamp switches to they line up together. I use tie wraps under the loom since I have no plans to move these things often.

On the other side, I use the adhesive clips to hold the airline in place, and then I created a drip loop using a Velcro strap on the airline, and creatively slung the USB air pump wire over part of the table so I could hook the carabiner over it's own power wire as a hanger. In the second photo, you can sort of see how I kept power and airline away from each other so water can't drip onto the air pump or its power connection.
 

In the next photo, you can see the entire thing after I wrap the wires in the loom tube.

The loom tube makes it possible to have wires exit at any point for directing them to different locations, keeping slack available, or even exposing inline switches.

At the other end of the loom tube is the power strip box.

I cut the loom tube long enough so that the wrapped wire bundle enters the box as one bundle. This helps keep the loom in place over the wires entering the box for a cleaner look.

Cutting the loom long enough to enter the box also makes sure that the loom tube is included in the "drip loop" created by the rise of the bundle entering the box through the elevated opening. The D-Line box that I use has a solid moulded base that lifts the side slots above the floor. In the event of a spill, water cannot get into the box until it's at least a full inch deep. I can put adhesive rubber feet on the bottom of the box to increase that if I wish.

This loom tube is a made of a wide nylon mesh. While water may travel inside it on a vertical run, as soon as there is a bend in the loom, water will rapidly dump out through the mesh. So, there is no worry of the water traveling through the loom into the power strip box. (I've tested it, it works).

When it's all closed up, it looks nice and tidy.

You just gave me all the directions necessary to create a "just because I love you" gift that is not in anyway going to be associated with the commercial "part with your money" holiday I promised not to spend money on, anymore. 

 

Thank you!!!!

::googling loom tube::

[Torrey]

On 2/20/2022 at 4:30 PM, Anon said:

Zip ties and sticky backs from an electrical supply store are useful for "permanent" wire organization. Just don't put the sticky backs on painted surfaces. 

I use 3M hooks on apartment painted walls, and get similar results (that won't cost me my damage deposit).

I did not know of this joyous loom tubing, however. 

[Greg Stewart]

On 2/20/2022 at 6:39 PM, Torrey said:

I did not know of this joyous loom tubing, however. 

I'm now feeling a bizarre urge to go back and edit everything to insert the word "joyous" before every occurrence of "loom" with a footnote reference to @Torrey 😉

 

Oh, by the way, somewhere in my first two installments, I have links to the Amazon/Home Depot pages for everything... let me know if they stop working for some reason. I may have to add photos and actual product names in the original posts.

Edited February 20, 2022 by Greg Stewart

[Torrey]

I find the greatest pleasure in some of the smallest things, lol.😅

My son was very active in the SCA, so we actually have a functional loom. I don't think my eyes can see well enough, nor are my fingers nimble enough, to make these tubes, however. 🧐

[Guppysnail]

I am definitely bringing some of those JOYOUS looms to my life 🙂 

[Greg Stewart]

@Torrey Now, that would be taking DIY to an extreme 😉

Not sure how you'd get the loom tube to curl up on itself, though, like the commercial nylon tubes.

[Torrey]

On 2/20/2022 at 8:05 PM, Greg Stewart said:

@Torrey Now, that would be taking DIY to an extreme 😉

Not sure how you'd get the loom tube to curl up on itself, though, like the commercial nylon tubes.

Has to do with the tension, and it's a pita😅

[Anon]

On 2/20/2022 at 3:39 PM, Torrey said:

I use 3M hooks on apartment painted walls, and get similar results (that won't cost me my damage deposit).

I did not know of this joyous loom tubing, however. 

I steal this stuff from work so I work around the damage 🙂. The "loom tubing" is sold as braided sleeve from the same vendors. You can buy the unsplit version and put a zip tie on either side to stretch it and make it look neat. I run all my chunky controllers/switches to the same area and then bundle and hide the wires behind a stand. If I left anything hanging my animals would tear it down.  

[Minanora]

I have a giant roll of UV rated split-loom for work.... I don't know why I never thought to loom all of my tank wiring/tubing! Smart.

I would also just like a general safety note here - Don't overlook the above tips for making sure things don't overheat or kinking wires. Electrical safety is often overlooked, but it's extremely important. Don't cut off ground lugs to get them to fit. Be sure your power strips are rated for the draw that they'll be taking. They can overheat and melt.

It can be useful to use 8" "pigtails" to make certain power adapters fit on power strips. I use ones we got in a 10 pack on Amazon for various adapters. The ones I have are 14 Gauge and never get hot. I'm sure that 16 Gauge would be fine for most power adapters. I'm just paranoid and run 14 or 12 for everything outside of data and DC power.