Backyard Medaka Microfarm Journal

[Minanora]

I'm so glad your koi and cool fish are holding up so well. It's nerve-wracking when we have heat waves like this.

[Guppysnail]

On 8/3/2022 at 3:36 PM, modified lung said:

Freshwater sponge decided it likes the brick, doubled in size over the last month.

 

Did you add the sponge intentionally or just get lucky?  I’ve admired fw sponges for years but have never been lucky enough to get one. 

Edited September 8, 2022 by Guppysnail

[modified lung]

On 9/8/2022 at 3:34 AM, Guppysnail said:

Did you add the sponge intentionally or just get lucky?  I’ve admired fw sponges for years but have never been lucky enough to get one. 

I found it in a river 3 years ago. It's grown more in the last month than in that time. Idk why.

[modified lung]

Heatwave basically over. The high for air temp during the heatwave was 116°F. Temps in every tank are now already down into the 80s°F. It was fun watching people in my local fish group panicking over their indoor tanks reaching the mid 80s°F while I'm here happy about only hitting the 90s.

The 100 gal stock tank I covered with 1x8 pieces of wood reach 90°F max.

The 300 gal tanks shaded by potted plants the the garage reach 93°F max.

The half full barrels reached 95°F max.

Looks like adding a covering to shield most of the water surface from the sun was the most effective. A few other things could have contributed to the 100 gal tank keeping the lowest temp. (1) The side of the tank facing the sun was also covered by some plywood and the solar panel. (2) There was no air pump running which means no hot air being injected into the water. (3)  The bottom of the tank is buried about 4 inches into the ground which keepings the lower water column cooler. (4) The vertical temperature gradient is always surprisingly dramatic and cooler water below may have kept the water above from getting as hot. (5) The wood may have acted as an insulator keeping the air above the water cooler.

All that being said, I think blocking the water from direct sun exposure contributed the most because the 100 gal stock tank usually has the warmest. 

No dead or lethargic fish were found. It looks like I may have lost a lot of black worms. I don't know whether's it was more due to the heat or to the ricefish after the worms came out of the tower. I can't imagine they could eat that many blackworm but I did see some concerningly fat fish and a lot of eggs.

[modified lung]

Party's over, dragonflies.

I didn't realize there are so many different types of dragonfly nymphs.

[Guppysnail]

On the up side your yard mosquito population was probably very well controlled by the adult dragonflies 😁

[modified lung]

On 9/16/2022 at 3:45 PM, Guppysnail said:

On the up side your yard mosquito population was probably very well controlled by the adult dragonflies 😁

Lol I thought the same thing.

[modified lung]

Two part post: breeding pens and new filtration ideas. 

A few months ago I attended a ricefish society meeting near San Francisco. Most people were talking about breeding their ricefish in individual 7 gallon tubs from the dollar store. Personally, I don't really like that idea. First, I don't live in the SF Bay Area. I live in the valley where it gets much hotter. So I don't think would work for me. We recently had a heatwave where and the max temp in my shaded 300 gallon tank hit 93°F. 7 gallon tubs would have cooked the fish alive.

Second, it seems the larger the space, the more eggs are produced. In ten gallons of water, each female would have maybe 5 to 10 eggs at a time for me. But in the 300 gallon and the 50 gallons tanks, the egg clusters are twice the width of the female. I'm sure this has something to do with health and welfare.

My original plan was to put a cinder block shelf up against the garage which would hold 50 gallon tanks that drained down into the 300 gal tank. There would have been 6 50 gal tanks in total. Each one could have held a different strain of ricefish for breeding with the 300 gal being the grow out and holding tanks. But stupid me, I put the 300 gal tanks 1 inch too close the the garage and I now I can't fit the cinder blocks. Moving the tanks forward would be a lot of work.

So new plan ...22 inch breeding pens!

. .made with plastic mesh screen/chicken wire, some heavy rubber hose, and zip ties. Each 300 gal tank can hold at least 6 of these. So that's 12 total pens possible. The 50 gal tanks will be used for grow out. The area between the breeding pens and a few 55 gallon barrels van be used for holding. I think I like this plan better.

----------

Filtration 

With the heatwave there was a lot of plant die back which has filled the tank with a lot of particulates. It might be time to start thinking about filtration. The first post I made in this journal was about considering different types of DIY filters. I rethought this and will be going in a little different direction. It will be a two part filter.

For the first part I will be turning the 55 gallon sump into a radial flow filter with an inner surface skimmer. The second part will be a self cleaning bead filter submerged in a 30 gallon sump.

Both filters will be experimental. Radial flow filters, which is a type of settling filter, usually have an outer ring surface skimmer which is much larger and more efficient. But because that's not very easy to build with random parts, most DIY radial flow filters just point an 90° elbow upward to drain surface water. Well that's boring. Plus, I like making things difficult on myself and get off on the regret that follows.

I have also never seen a DIY bead filter or a submerged self cleaning bead filter located in a sump or anywhere else really. We'll see how that goes.

Both of these should be easy enough to build. With the radial flow filter I won't have to deal with cleaning mechanical filtration media at all. I'm sure the bead filter will still occasionally need back flushing but that's easy.

[Chick-In-Of-TheSea]

On 9/17/2022 at 10:05 PM, modified lung said:

Well that's boring. Plus, I like making things difficult on myself and get off on the regret that follows.

🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

On 9/17/2022 at 10:05 PM, modified lung said:

Most people were talking about breeding their ricefish in individual 7 gallon tubs from the dollar store. Personally, I don't really like that idea. First, I don't live in the SF Bay Area. I live in the valley where it gets much hotter

Agreed. I’m in a hot climate too. I’d never go that small for an outdoor tub. In fact, I would more likely put a tub into the ground if I were to start a tub.

[modified lung]

Added more detail the the filter schematic. Blue arrows show the water path. Valves leading to blue pipes are generally open. Valves leading to grey pipe are general closed. Just about all of it can be made from basic plumbing parts. Most of them I might have already. For the surface skimmer I can cut off the bottom part of a 5 gallon bucket. Then insert some 3 or 4 inch pipe through a rubber bulkhead in the center for the downward flow settler. This will probably be a next month project.

Edited September 18, 2022 by modified lung

[K McZongo]

On 9/18/2022 at 3:38 AM, Chick-In-Of-TheSea said:

🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

Agreed. I’m in a hot climate too. I’d never go that small for an outdoor tub. In fact, I would more likely put a tub into the ground if I were to start a tub.

I've been watching a some Japanese medaka vids recently, it seems like they prefer the smaller containers for selection/line breeding or just being able to separate the eggs. They also might be doing it for space constraints, since their yards (balconies and alleys) look a lot smaller. It also gets pretty hot in Japan so I assume the medaka are fine with that.

[K McZongo]

On 9/17/2022 at 7:05 PM, modified lung said:

Two part post: breeding pens and new filtration ideas. 

A few months ago I attended a ricefish society meeting near San Francisco. Most people were talking about breeding their ricefish in individual 7 gallon tubs from the dollar store. Personally, I don't really like that idea. First, I don't live in the SF Bay Area. I live in the valley where it gets much hotter. So I don't think would work for me. We recently had a heatwave where and the max temp in my shaded 300 gallon tank hit 93°F. 7 gallon tubs would have cooked the fish alive.

Second, it seems the larger the space, the more eggs are produced. In ten gallons of water, each female would have maybe 5 to 10 eggs at a time for me. But in the 300 gallon and the 50 gallons tanks, the egg clusters are twice the width of the female. I'm sure this has something to do with health and welfare.

The breeding pens sound interesting, I'd like to see the results when your fish start breeding.  Are you planning on any particular strains? I'm hoping we can start getting some more medaka available in the USA from the Japanese strains.

[modified lung]

On 9/18/2022 at 6:00 PM, K McZongo said:

I've been watching a some Japanese medaka vids recently, it seems like they prefer the smaller containers for selection/line breeding or just being able to separate the eggs. They also might be doing it for space constraints, since their yards (balconies and alleys) look a lot smaller. It also gets pretty hot in Japan so I assume the medaka are fine with that.

That's true with the line breeding. In the SFBA space is definitely a factor too. Good points. People I talked to thought shallow tubs mean easier egg collection. But I think they just need a better designed egg collector.

Ricefish can definitely handle 100°F water at least for a week or so. I've had them survive a max temp of 104°F. This year we had almost a week long heatwave of 110-116°F. I feel like those temps would be pushing it. 116°F was a record high but something like that could be the new normal. I'd rather have a good amount of water to buffer the temps. Right now its all connected with 700 gal total.

On 9/18/2022 at 6:13 PM, K McZongo said:

The breeding pens sound interesting, I'd like to see the results when your fish start breeding.  Are you planning on any particular strains? I'm hoping we can start getting some more medaka available in the USA from the Japanese strains.

I have miyukis whites, yohiki oranges, and sansyoku tomeirin tri-colors that have been breeding for a while. The yohikis will go in the pen this week. We'll see how it goes.

For other strains, it all depends on what I can get. I know at least one importer that has gotten ricefish from Japan before.

[modified lung]

Dragonfly larvae eating another dragonfly larvae. Thanks, bro.

[OnlyGenusCaps]

I don't know how I missed this!  I love the filter schematic.  Indeed, I'd like to learn more about the radial flow filter component. 

I'm traveling right now, but I'm also going to send you a DM in the coming days because I'd like to learn more about the fish themselves.  It seems you know quite a bit about the different varieties, and have access to a group who does as well.  I have a client for whom I am likely to have to import some fish from Japan, and I'd like to learn more so I can target a quality, and hopefully unique, strain.

Edited September 26, 2022 by OnlyGenusCaps
embarrassing human and AI errors

[modified lung]

On 9/25/2022 at 7:36 AM, OnlyGenusCaps said:

I don't know how I kissed this! 

You just leaned forward and went for it.

On 9/25/2022 at 7:36 AM, OnlyGenusCaps said:

Indeed, I'd like to learn more about the rotary filter component

Radial?

On 9/25/2022 at 7:36 AM, OnlyGenusCaps said:

It seems you know quite a bit about the different varieties, and have access to a group who does as well. 

I just know what Google questionably translates from a few Japanese websites.

This is the guy I bought my tri-colors from. He shows a few of his other varieties.

 

[OnlyGenusCaps]

On 9/25/2022 at 1:39 PM, modified lung said:

You just leaned forward and went for it.

That is my style, but in this case what happened was I tried to send out a quick e-mail with too little time to type (or proofread).  Actually, that works in both cases too.  🤔

On 9/25/2022 at 1:39 PM, modified lung said:

Radial?

Yup, that one.  I must have been thinking rotary drum filters when I hurriedly typed that.  So, yes please!  More on your radial flow filter.

On 9/25/2022 at 1:39 PM, modified lung said:

I just know what Google questionably translates from a few Japanese websites.

This is the guy I bought my tri-colors from. He shows a few of his other varieties.

Thanks!  I'll check out the vid.  I think for this guy, I am going to have to import.  I sure hope none of the rare fish I end up having to get end up being accidentally bred in my tanks and at a MAS auction...  That would be a shame. 😏

[modified lung]

A second breeding pen was added a few days ago. The sansyoku tricolors are already breeding inside it. The yokihis have been in the first pen for more than a week longer but have not bred. But they haven't bred much at all since they were put outside. It's possible the koi is stressing them out although the sansyuko tricolors don't seem to mind. I've also learned that yokihis are considered red, not orange. Orange medakas are much more pale.

I've pulled over 50 dragonfly larvae out of the miyuki tank over the last week. They don't seem to be predating on the fry. I'm wondering if they're eating snails instead because there's a layer of tiny ramshorn shells coating the bottom of the tank. 

I've found no dragonfly larvae in the yokihi tank which I think confirms the koi is eating them. There also isn't a layer of shells at the bottom of that tank.

[xXInkedPhoenixX]

On 6/17/2022 at 4:49 PM, modified lung said:

..then reevaluated my life decisions.

......every day my friend. Every. Day. 😄

[modified lung]

Filtration Build 

Radial Flow Settler + Submerged Bead Filter 

Bead Filter and Sump Build

This bead filter will be unique in two ways. First, bead filters are generally stand alone, pressurized units, similar to a canister filter. This bead filter will be submerged in the sump with an screened top. Second, a pump is generally placed before the bead filter to force water through. This bead filter will be gravity fed. 

I made the main body of the filter from 4" pipe. I already had a section of 4" pipe and coupling with a 1" hole drilled in the side. I shoved a 1" coupling into the hole to make a reducing tee. The 1" coupling will lead to the backflush discharge valve.

The body will be filled with kaldnes media. To keep the media from draining when the discharge valve is open, we'll need screen off the discharge pipe. I used some plastic chicken wire, a small piece of 1 " pipe, and a zip tie. 

Eventually, I'd like to replace the kaldnes media with actual bead filter media which are ¼" spherical floating plastic beads. But it's hard to find small amounts of that stuff at a reasonable price.

For the top of the bead filter I cut two ½" long sections of 4" pipe and sandwiched some plastic screen between them. I may add a second sandwich of finer screen on top of that.

Because this bead filter will be gravity fed, screen clogging may be an issue. To prevent this I plan on branching a section of pipe from the pump that will lead to an irrigation nozzle hanging just above the screen. The valve leading toward this section of pipe may always be cracked open which will create a constant self cleaning mechanism for the screen. But ideally, the radial flow section of the filter will settle out enough solids for this not to be necessary. 

The bottom is made from a 4" to 2" reducer and a 2"  90° street elbow. I pictured two reducers but will only be using the reducer on the right which was cut for a previous project. Ignore the small holes drilled in the side of the cut reducer; I'll eventually be plugging them. 

The male end of the street elbow is shoved into the reducer and screened off with another piece of plastic chicken wire. The plastic wire is held on with a 2" coupling that was cut in half. 

Putting it all together. 

A 30 gallon barrel will be used as the sump. I cut a section from the top and installed a 2" bulkhead as low as possible on the barrel.

The bead filter is slipped onto a 2" nipple cut in half and screwed into the bulkhead on the inside of the barrel.

I still have to install the bulkhead and valve for the backflush discharge pipe but this is enough for today.

 

Edited October 1, 2022 by modified lung

[Beardedbillygoat1975]

This was fun to catch up with. This will inspire me for Spring! 

[modified lung]

Filtration Build (2) 

Today I added the backflush discharge bulkhead and valve. The sump and bead filter has worked out perfectly so far. I managed to make it all out of old parts and haven't had to cut anything so far except for holes for the bulkheads. 

The easiest way to attach two barrels is with a union. If you're unfamiliar, a union is kind of like the female end of a garden hose fitting. I found an old beat up union in the garage.

Both sides of the union need to be perfectly aligned to work properly.

Coming together but not yet finished.

 

[modified lung]

Filtration Build (3) 

I setup the radial flow filter last weekend and it's been working far better than I expected. It's made from the bottom cut from a trash bin, a 2" and 4" uniseal bulkheads and some pipe. The uniseals were used to allow for the height of each pipe to be adjusted up or down as needed because I was to lazy to take measurements ahead of time.

The idea of this type of filter is to force water from the main tanks down the 4" center pipe. Any solids will settle out on the way down while the bin skims clean water from the surface and sends it to the sump.

The reason for the large bin instead of just a 90° pipe turned upward (like seen in most DIY radial flow filters) is to increase the overflow-able area as much as possible. The more area available to collect overflow water, the thinner the layer of surface water will be collected, and the less likely suspended particles will make it to the sump.

During the heatwave a lot of plant matter died off and filled the water with suspended particles. The radial flow filter is working so well, not only has the water clarity improved dramatically, but the filter sock I added hasn't clogged for the 7 days it's been running. I really didn't expect this thing to be so effective.

It's working so well I don't think I need the bead filter. So I think I'll take out the bead filter and replace it with a ...DIY p̶r̶o̶t̶e̶i̶n̶ airlift skimmer!!!

Edited October 22, 2022 by modified lung

[modified lung]

Filtration Build (4) 

Basic DIY p̶r̶o̶t̶e̶i̶n̶ airlift skimmer:

I made the collection cup on the cap extra tall so it's less likely to overflow and wash back into the system during the rainy season.

Here it is with the cap off:

The inside is just a 90° elbow pointing upward to avoid air traveling up the discharge pipe. The design doesn't have to be that complicated.

...in the sump, cap off:

...in the sump, cap and collection cup on, over flow attached:

Unfortunately I dropped my air pump in the water and it stopped working so I couldn't get a picture of it bubbling out the top. Maybe I should get a bigger one anyway.

The design is the same as a very basic protein skimmer. But there won't be much foam like you'll see in a saltwater or pond protein skimmer. Instead the airlift should bring particles too small for the radial flow filter to settle (and possibly unwanted bacteria cells), trickle them over the ½" adapter hole and into the collection cup. This can work with only a small air pump because the water level set by the discharge pipe is just a tiny bit lower than the ½" adapter which basically acts as a weak airlift.

Since the radial flow filter was installed a couple weeks ago water clarity is continuing to recover from the heatwave plant die off and the Yokihis are getting even redder:

 

 

Edited October 22, 2022 by modified lung

[OnlyGenusCaps]

On 10/7/2022 at 8:36 PM, modified lung said:

There has only recently been research in using these in freshwater but the results show lower bacteria counts, suspended particles, and turbidity.

I'll be interested to hear how the skimmer ends up working for you.  I have a half built one for FW that I was working on for a bit.  Koi pond folks use them to effect, but with FW less likely to froth than salt they tend to need to be larger/taller, and require rare more air flow (essentially you need to create larger numbers of bubbles with greater contact time to get a stable, and concentrating foam).  From the diagram yours seems to site quite low to the water level.  That's a different approach than I have seen before.  Maybe that's the key?  I don't know, but like I said, I'm excited to hear how it works out!