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Planting and scaping ideas


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E1CF8E68-E58B-4A61-AF9D-164B6BEDAEAB.jpeg.1fbcac14c9ffabf7d5826eb391e35868.jpeg

This is my redone 45 g tall. I took the plecos out and will rehome them in their own 40 breeder. It has a single strip of white LEDs for the front of the tank and a Finnex 24-7 planted. I had the Marineland HOB running on it but it is now decommissioned and switched to 2 Eheim cannisters - boy do I love that quiet. 

Present plan stocking is the Taiwan lilly on the left, next to it is a crypt wendtii green, behind the wood is an adult and a juvenile Crinum, on the wood is anubias, bolbitis (new, just establishing) and windelov fern, crypt wendtii in front of the wood with a couple pieces of bacopa in the foreground, behind the wood in the middle is a tiger lilly, there is a red metallic affinis between the Malaysian drift wood and the cholla wood pieces, there is a crypt spirallis in front of the cholla wood, and 3 amazon swords over on the right. 

I like the wood where is is. I think I may go back in and put some manzanita branches on it to make it resemble a root structure coming down from above the water. I will start putting some stones around the base of it for effect to help it look more like a rock bottom. I think I may take the windelov and some other fern I have and put it on the cholla wood to have that blend in more. 

The elephant in the room is what to do with the space to the right of the wood. Some ideas I have had:

1. get more and different swords - rubens, ozelot, red diamond etc

2. aponogeton like crispus, Longiplumulosus, or natans

3. leave it blank?

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@tnnlynchord, thanks much. I haven’t had the best success with vals but I’d love to have them waving across the tank! Maybe some smaller colorful swords in the mid ground and vals from the end of the wood to the heater on the right to hopefully cover it up!
 

Here’s a pic dump from just now with my lights maxed out. B3EF7407-81E0-4A4D-A1DE-479DBCDFABAC.jpeg.8c43e56d1a70d983df7f49364fbccc27.jpeg51A66DDF-B521-497F-BE04-40CDD421CD0C.jpeg.7362b93dc50c04954e815aa53eac268e.jpeg761B6DCF-3393-406F-9B71-1E9B4A63465C.jpeg.67434a9286f2285a7b2d593598c7b35c.jpegA3F1B066-4588-4EAF-82F5-0B99966761D9.jpeg.2e179b604b78f18a37648bd53306e8e0.jpegC0C445CA-D623-42D0-8860-EFE75515484F.jpeg.199fb62d54685e75ee3dcc5c83bac3e4.jpeg

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Like Atitagain, I too have a question for you, sir.  Right away, I saw you are running a reef pump in the tank and I wanted to ask how you like the flow.  Then I read through and learned you have two cans on there as well.  How much flow are you getting? Do those fish like it?  I ask because I am thinking about getting some reef pumps to add current to my big tank I am setting up.

Also, those cherry barbs are really nice looking!  They are one of the few "community" fish I really like.  Sadly I think they would instantly fossilize in my hard, high pH water.  Here is a bird who got too close to one of my tanks once:

https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kthK3Gv9gdQ/U3OlAi7Ph1I/AAAAAAAAAYE/X8C73fXqMAg/s1600/Lake+Natron+1.jpg

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Hi @Beardedbillygoat1975

Nice start, you have some good filters there.  I too have a 45 gallon tall (36" X 12.5" X 24" tall) and it can be a challenge to aquascape.  If it way my tank I would:

1)  Add a background to the tank.  I use black on most of my tanks but anything that will help the plants and fish stand out and remove the distraction of wires, wall, etc will help.

2) Beauty is in the eye of the beholder is an old saying but very true in aquascaping.  If you like it, then it is good.  That said there are a few aquascaping  principles that can increase the appeal of an aquascape.  In no particular order:

a) Golden Ratio

b) Rule of Thirds

c) Plants of various heights

d) Leaves of different color; including different shades of green

e) Leaves of different shape

f) Repetition of species

When I tried to incorporate some of principles above in my aquascapes I found that I liked the results.....just a suggestion.  My 45G tall is below, haven't quite figured out the far  right background plant yet but have a couple of ideas in mind. -Roy 

2022-01-28 45 Gallon M klasioensis C atropersonatus (7) Cropped Adj Sn Sm.jpg

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@Seattle_Aquaristcould you attach a different format of the pic? It didn’t come through for some reason. I’m excited to see a fellow aquarist with the 45 g footprint.

 
I absolutely agree. Was going for a triangular composition left to right. It’s not complete and know I need to do more. Was trying to get advice before I got into it too deeply and wished I’d gotten more help.  

I had thought about things like some thinner branches coming off the bigger ones toward the center and some rocks around the bases of the wood formations.


In terms of planting some of the smaller swords in different hues in the mid ground, perhaps some balansae crypt or aponogeton crispus vs vals in the background, microsword in the foreground vs just more crypts.   

Part of this plan will also be CO2, it’s the next step in the aquascaping part of my hobby. I need to see if I’ll be able to convert my regulator from my old brew setup to an aquascaping setup. If that’s not possible it’ll be a choice between a cheap regulator setup or convince the Mrs to go for a better more reliable setup. I’m also attracted to these new setups for citric acid and baking soda - metal cylinders with regulators and solenoid are much more efficient then my old diy but I’ve already got a C02 cylinder so I’m leaning that way. 

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I’m liking where you’re going with this tank.  Personally, I would put something tall in that right corner (but you know I love a jungle) and I have developed a real soft spot for Apongetons.  Vals would also look great.  Even Crypt. balansae or if you really want to occupy some space Crypt. aponogetifolia.

Edit to add Crypt usteriana gets very tall, too.

Edited by Odd Duck
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@Atitagainim just being lazy - I have the window film. I’d just need to move the hardware and apply it! @OnlyGenusCapssince I threw the second Eheim on I’ve had the Korralia pump off. When I was running one canister and one hob the tank had some dead spots that needed addressing with the pump. As for the cherry barbs I love them and my dream is to find the albino longfins MD Fishtanks has in one of his tanks. I’ve always thought of them as highly adaptable as they’re all farm raised not wild and most farms have them in pretty hard water. @Mmiller2001i have some hygrophila polysperma but never had it take off to fill that kind of space. Perhaps with CO2 it could happen. Giant hygro I’ll have to look up.  I had augustifolia and it did well for me and like the shape of their leaves. Thanks for the idea. For some reason I always miss the hygros. @Odd Ducki was thinking Brazilian pennywort in that right corner as a balance with the Taiwan Lilly on the left as if it grows up and out it could drape over the side which would be cool. 
 

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On 2/2/2022 at 2:48 PM, Beardedbillygoat1975 said:

@Seattle_Aquaristcould you attach a different format of the pic? It didn’t come through for some reason. I’m excited to see a fellow aquarist with the 45 g footprint.

 
I absolutely agree. Was going for a triangular composition left to right. It’s not complete and know I need to do more. Was trying to get advice before I got into it too deeply and wished I’d gotten more help.  

I had thought about things like some thinner branches coming off the bigger ones toward the center and some rocks around the bases of the wood formations.


In terms of planting some of the smaller swords in different hues in the mid ground, perhaps some balansae crypt or aponogeton crispus vs vals in the background, microsword in the foreground vs just more crypts.   

Part of this plan will also be CO2, it’s the next step in the aquascaping part of my hobby. I need to see if I’ll be able to convert my regulator from my old brew setup to an aquascaping setup. If that’s not possible it’ll be a choice between a cheap regulator setup or convince the Mrs to go for a better more reliable setup. I’m also attracted to these new setups for citric acid and baking soda - metal cylinders with regulators and solenoid are much more efficient then my old diy but I’ve already got a C02 cylinder so I’m leaning that way. 

Hi @Beardedbillygoat1975  I attached the photo direct from my computer, hopefully you can see it now.  Both C. balansae and Aponogeton crispus grow quite tall and are much better as background plants (I've grown both).  As for mid-ground plants you might try Eriocaulon sp. 'Vietnam' which has a nice 'grassy' look and is the easiest Erio to grow, even without CO2.  Foreground plants can be difficult in a 45 tall because the light intensity (PAR) drops substantially with the depth of the tank.  Maybe try Marsilea minuta or Blyxa japonica (I've grown both as foreground plants.  -Roy 

2022-01-28 45 Gallon M klasioensis C atropersonatus (7) Cropped Adj Sn Sm.jpg

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@Seattle_Aquarist- Roy that’s great advice. Always loved Blyxa but thought it wasn’t possible without good light and C02. If I go CO2 should I go whole hog on a light as well or should I try it with the medium light I’m using now? Worried I’d just be creating an algae tank if I’m dosing ferts using EI or lean schedules and not using the right amount of light

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On 2/2/2022 at 4:30 PM, Beardedbillygoat1975 said:

@Seattle_Aquarist- Roy that’s great advice. Always loved Blyxa but thought it wasn’t possible without good light and C02. If I go CO2 should I go whole hog on a light as well or should I try it with the medium light I’m using now? Worried I’d just be creating an algae tank if I’m dosing ferts using EI or lean schedules and not using the right amount of light. 

Hi @Beardedbillygoat1975

I've grown Blyxa both with and without CO2.  You can certainly go with CO2 without high light intensity.  In fact, I don't do "High" light intensity in my tanks.....too much work.  I tend to run PAR in the 50-75 level and my CO2 at 20 - 30 ppm.  Most species do fine with those parameters.  I always recommend starting slow with CO2.  Keep light the same to start, add CO2, and you will see your nutrient levels need to be increased due to the increased growth.  Once things are balanced again increase light (if you want) and increase nutrients for increased growth.  I used to do EI and PPS-Pro dosing but I've gone with Osmocote Plus root tabs under 2+" of substrate and supplement with Seachem Comprehensive for micro-nutrients.  I only dose my tanks once a week and add new root tabs every 5 weeks.  Here is my 30 (36" long) gallon.  -Roy
 

 

2019-03-16 30 Gallon Old Skool 02 Cropped Adj Sn Lg.JPG

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@Seattle_AquaristThat’s something I could definitely go for - make one change at a time and see what happens then make another change. It’s been my ethos in the hobby and served me well. I like the idea of a moderate tech CO2 setup! 

Plants in my cart right now: 

Echinodorus Rubin, miracle, golden sun, and hadi.

Crypt balansae

Brazilian pennywort variegated 

I’ll get some CO2 started after our taxes are back. 

Thanks everyone for the ideas, inspiration and advice! Excited for the next steps. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I got my plants and did a little inspection and qt. All was good. I got a couple hours yesterday and today to work on it. 

Here’s the before pic and a pic of my sketch for the planting plan. 489A34E6-AA5B-4445-994C-D7C130AD9A47.jpeg.5db10b7df66a859e00b836e0d81c4852.jpeg4E08B571-1000-4289-B777-36D27510D7A0.jpeg.c2f581f4eedb9765383a9f9045cebed8.jpeg

And here’s the after. 

694201EB-2719-4EC3-BFB9-033E1641D504.jpeg.7e7f792a55e73f5b17521c57101fdbe1.jpeg

Used the Brazilian pennywort variegated in both back corners. On the Left behind the Taiwan Lilly I’ve planted a Crypt balansae. In front of the wood I’ve placed giant bacopa amongst my regular bacopa. I didn’t touch my red tiger lotus but did move my crypt spiralis to the back as kind of a transition point between the lotus and the new plants. Along the back I’ve planted valisineria from the wood over to the pennywort on the right corner. In front of that is the Echinodorus golden sun. I left my crypt wendtii garden up front and next to it is a couple Echinodorus miracle. My good ol’ Amazon swords are still in place in the right for now. 90263BBB-98F9-47FD-93F3-4323E4C58D9D.jpeg.e016ca584936c3e1088b7f3026ab530c.jpegEFF4AE30-721A-4306-A541-3BA82C2585F4.jpeg.65f96b2ded17c61ed8a632e4b57dca08.jpegD4ACCA3D-ED9B-46AD-8A5F-013D448C4FBC.jpeg.698bd4a8cd3fa7b3f3f431283a4f49a5.jpeg
I’ve also placed a black background on and I’ve moved the hardware more center with the hope that as the plants grow I’ll get them covered up. 
89F9A809-AD05-43BA-ADDD-2E18453ABF5E.jpeg.bc5a5eefcca8931cb840a90a57b73050.jpegA8950879-3D6E-4601-AF3E-60180EFDF168.jpeg.d53bc7e8261789c3cc9927fd96d3d6ae.jpeg23A8FC2D-3D2A-492C-9E38-099844437D79.jpeg.48f5d8586d3966c0f0e8db848e1aec9d.jpeg8CF18FA8-6484-42DC-8B37-A9E5FAB18CE2.jpeg.954ec33ab0f674d36a93805181ff59b3.jpeg9FC565AF-6783-4AE9-AB4C-B3146E6F3B4C.jpeg.c0919a2c69541d7cfb3b26caa3300481.jpeg4FB272A4-CD7F-4D33-B57E-98F6DD55CFB2.jpeg.da1be3d02cf595bc06d60f47cf547f46.jpeg

I’ve changed up my lighting. I’d been lazy and just let the light do it’s 24 hour cycle but if I’m aiming to get the best growth I know I need to do better. So I’ve got a Kasa timer on there now and I’ll be blasting it for 9 hours a day to start with a 2 hour siesta in the afternoon. I also has an LED white light that came with the tank going on with the Finnex. With how deep this 45 g is any help I can get is good. 

All constructive criticism appreciated.

 

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