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How hot are Fluval 3.0's supposed to run?


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I have a Fluval 3.0 on a 29gal with a custom setup of around 2% blues, 75% reds, and 95% on the whites, set to ramp up and down through the day. I'm noticing it runs REALLY hot--so hot I can't touch it for more than a second, and the tank is hovering around 81F without any supplemental heating, now. I've seen some people say they do run warm, but for an LED, it seems a bit much. Is this normal?

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I emailed Candi about this after buying mine. Sent me a new one, which I now feel bad for, because it's every bit as hot. Turns out they do regularly run so hot they'll burn your hand after a second. I wouldn't leave mine on at full strength when I'm out of the house, for sure. Seems dangerous.

Edited to add: Make sure it's not touching the glass, and not close enough to plastic to make the plastic warm. The guy who made my acrylic tank told me heat will mess up plastic, and my personal suspicion is that the heat from direct contact with a Fluval 3.0 could break glass.

Edited by CalmedByFish
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On 8/18/2021 at 9:32 AM, Frogmouth Catfish said:

I have a Fluval 3.0 on a 29gal with a custom setup of around 2% blues, 75% reds, and 95% on the whites, set to ramp up and down through the day. I'm noticing it runs REALLY hot--so hot I can't touch it for more than a second, and the tank is hovering around 81F without any supplemental heating, now. I've seen some people say they do run warm, but for an LED, it seems a bit much. Is this normal?

Is it directly on the lid or hanging above it a bit on a bracket?  Putting an airgap between the lid and the light, even half an inch, would probably help a lot if the light is directly on the lid and is the source of your extra heat.

 

 

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On 8/18/2021 at 3:07 PM, CT_ said:

Is it directly on the lid or hanging above it a bit on a bracket?  Putting an airgap between the lid and the light, even half an inch, would probably help a lot if the light is directly on the lid and is the source of your extra heat.

 

 

It's on a glass lid, I find that if I raise it up on the brackets, it produces quite a bit of glare. However, I think 'more' heat is coming off the top, rather than the underside--I can touch my fingers to the light for more than a few seconds before it becomes intolerable, whereas its the top of the light that produces the most 'youch,' reaction.

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On 8/18/2021 at 9:32 AM, Frogmouth Catfish said:

I have a Fluval 3.0 on a 29gal with a custom setup of around 2% blues, 75% reds, and 95% on the whites, set to ramp up and down through the day. I'm noticing it runs REALLY hot--so hot I can't touch it for more than a second, and the tank is hovering around 81F without any supplemental heating, now. I've seen some people say they do run warm, but for an LED, it seems a bit much. Is this normal?

Hi @Frogmouth Catfish

The Fluval 3.0 does run pretty warm.  I have a 36" Fluval 3.0 unit on my 45 gallon with settings pink@100; blue@100; cold white@100; pure white@80; and warm white@50 and I can keep my hand on it for a few seconds.  Keep in mind that LED lamps do put of heat - just not as much as florescent or incandescent.  The reason the fixture is made from metal is so the fixture can act as a heat sink and draw the heat away from the LED lamps and keep them as cool as possible.  Heat shortens the life of LED lamps so it is good that the fixture is 'hot'....that means less heat at the lamps.  I've used Fluval LED fixtures for about 6 years now and have never had an issue with any of them.  Remember, Fluval warranty is 3 years. -Roy spacer.png

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On 8/18/2021 at 2:10 PM, Frogmouth Catfish said:

I can touch my fingers to the light for more than a few seconds before it becomes intolerable, whereas its the top of the light that produces the most 'youch,' reaction.

Interesting. I haven't dared touch the light since the top side is so hot. 

Since I needed this to be clear to me, I offer the same to you: People are using the word "warm" to reply to you, but both of mine are scalding hot. So just making sure you know, it's not just your light that gets pain-in-one-second hot. I'm sure 3 seconds would leave a blister. Mine gets there less than 2 minutes after being turned up to full strength.

On 8/18/2021 at 4:45 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

The reason the fixture is made from metal is so the fixture can act as a heat sink and draw the heat away from the LED lamps and keep them as cool as possible.  Heat shortens the life of LED lamps so it is good that the fixture is 'hot'....that means less heat at the lamps.  I've used Fluval LED fixtures for about 6 years now and have never had an issue with any of them.  Remember, Fluval warranty is 3 years. -Roy 

Good to know.

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On 8/18/2021 at 6:52 PM, CalmedByFish said:

Interesting. I haven't dared touch the light since the top side is so hot. 

Since I needed this to be clear to me, I offer the same to you: People are using the word "warm" to reply to you, but both of mine are scalding hot. So just making sure you know, it's not just your light that gets pain-in-one-second hot. I'm sure 3 seconds would leave a blister. Mine gets there less than 2 minutes after being turned up to full strength.

Good to know.

Yes, mine are also hot enough to where I would assume they would blister if I left them on there. But, Seattle_Aquarist makes a case that it is functioning as it is supposed to, by drawing heat up and away from the lights, I think

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