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Nitrite Spike in New Tank. 1 fish dead. Suggestions appreciated :)

erik.hueno

By erik.hueno,
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erik.hueno Contributor

erik.hueno

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Hi everyone,

I have a 29-gallon tank that is 5 weeks old. I have quite a few fish in it, which maybe was a mistake of being newer to fishkeeping. My initial nitrogen cycle is currently taking place, and my nitrite seems to be spiking (around 5.0ppm). Ammonia is fairly low (between 0-0.25ppm). Nitrates are around 5.0ppm. Should I do a water change or no? And if so, how much and how frequently? I would appreciate any advice as I don’t want to lose any more fish! Thanks!

-Erik

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erik.hueno Contributor

erik.hueno

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On 7/2/2021 at 8:52 AM, erik.hueno said:

Hi everyone,

I have a 29-gallon tank that is 5 weeks old. I have quite a few fish in it, which maybe was a mistake of being newer to fishkeeping. My initial nitrogen cycle is currently taking place, and my nitrite seems to be spiking (around 5.0ppm). Ammonia is fairly low (between 0-0.25ppm). Nitrates are around 5.0ppm. Should I do a water change or no? And if so, how much and how frequently? I would appreciate any advice as I don’t want to lose any more fish! Thanks!

-Erik

Ammonia was slightly higher a week ago. Not nearly as high as nitrite got though. It maybe peaked between 0.50ppm-1.00ppm.

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Guppysnail Grand Master

Guppysnail

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Some fish food release nitrite directly so slow down on feeding. I would do a quick light hover style gravel vac and get the food off the bottom. Do a 50 % wc add prime or another conditioner that neutralizes nitrite for 24 hours but will not neutralize that high of a reading. Stop feeding for a day or so until it is under control that # could cause brown blood and suffocate your fish. Test tomorrow follow same procedures until you are at .5 or below. You don’t want to completely remove them until you bb colony reproduces and catches up.  

 

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lefty o Grand Master

lefty o

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best thing to do is get some good bacteria in that tank. anybody with an established tank you can pilfer some substrate/plants/filter media from, or some bottled bacteria. until that tank is running on its own, minimal water changes. i myself would not change more than 10% of the water at a time in a tank that is struggling through its "cycle".

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KaitieG Experienced

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I agree with the advice you've received so far.  I'd probably do 2 50% water changes today plus adding Seachem Prime, since it will bind up the Nitrites and make them non-toxic to fish for 25 hours.  Then I'd do another 50% change tomorrow and again add Prime.  My goal would be to test and change water anytime the Nitrite levels reach close to 1.  And keep adding Prime daily based on the tank size to help manage the toxicity while your tank cycles.

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HH Morant Mentor

HH Morant

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Bigger water changes are OK, especially in this situation. I would do a 75% or 80% water change. A 50% change is going to cut the nitrite level in half. When you have 5ppm, that means 2.5 ppm, which is still bad. Water changes are the best weapon. Prime is not going to hurt, but I am not sure I believe its claim to "bind" ammonia/nitrites. When fish are dying I know you want to do all you can. Not feeding for a day or two is also a good idea.

Good luck!

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erik.hueno Contributor

erik.hueno

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On 7/2/2021 at 9:07 AM, Guppysnail said:

Some fish food release nitrite directly so slow down on feeding. I would do a quick light hover style gravel vac and get the food off the bottom. Do a 50 % wc add prime or another conditioner that neutralizes nitrite for 24 hours but will not neutralize that high of a reading. Stop feeding for a day or so until it is under control that # could cause brown blood and suffocate your fish. Test tomorrow follow same procedures until you are at .5 or below. You don’t want to completely remove them until you bb colony reproduces and catches up.  

 

I’m planning on following this plan. Thank you very much! Will this slow down or potentially stop the cycling process?

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Guppysnail Grand Master

Guppysnail

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No. You do not currently have enough bb to eat that much so it won’t starve which is what stalls a cycle. That is why you leave .25 nitrite.  But I do agree I would do back to back 50% changes to get it down.  New fish will over stress doing larger all at once. Water changes are good during a cycle if needed to keep fish safe just test between because if you remove it all bb will have nothing to eat and reproduce.

ido not add prime to my tank only during water changes.  I did not know if you would be comfortable doing back to back water changes. 

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erik.hueno Contributor

erik.hueno

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On 7/2/2021 at 10:28 AM, Beardedbillygoat1975 said:

It won’t stop the cycling process. Just arrest it for a bit. It will be a bumpy ride. There may be more fish losses ahead. Stress injuries don’t always show up during the crisis but scar them and they can have less reserve to recover going forward. Hang in there as you said use this as a learning process. 

Thanks! I’ve never used Prime before. I have a standard Tetra water conditioner. Would you suggest using Prime for the first water change then the regular conditioner for the second?

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erik.hueno Contributor

erik.hueno

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On 7/2/2021 at 10:34 AM, erik.hueno said:

Thanks! I’ve never used Prime before. I have a standard Tetra water conditioner. Would you suggest using Prime for the first water change then the regular conditioner for the second?

Tetra brand, to clarify

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Guppysnail Grand Master

Guppysnail

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On 7/2/2021 at 11:34 AM, erik.hueno said:

Thanks! I’ve never used Prime before. I have a standard Tetra water conditioner. Would you suggest using Prime for the first water change then the regular conditioner for the second?

Tetra does not do the ammo nitrite lock thing. Stick with water changes that has worked for me forever and I’m old. Change repeatedly get to .25 change whenever it hits .5 and keep doing that. It takes time to grow a colony of bb. You will be fine. I’ve never lost a fish cycling. Above .5 you may not lose any but continued exposure will cause lowered immunity and health issues on an ongoing basis. 

You got this you will be fine hang in there starting is rough for everyone but so worth it. 

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tonyjuliano Proficient

tonyjuliano

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On 7/2/2021 at 11:28 AM, Beardedbillygoat1975 said:

It won’t stop the cycling process. Just arrest it for a bit. It will be a bumpy ride.

This…

And this this is the danger of adding fish prior to establishing the full nitrogen cycle.

Fishless cycling, using a controllable source of ammonia (not fish food “dosing”!) is something I always recommend.

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Guppysnail Grand Master

Guppysnail

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On 7/2/2021 at 11:34 AM, erik.hueno said:

Thanks! I’ve never used Prime before. I have a standard Tetra water conditioner. Would you suggest using Prime for the first water change then the regular conditioner for the second?

What you have is just fine they all dechlorinate. If you test and do water changes you’ll not need anything else. 

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Pizzafan Enthusiast

Pizzafan

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I think they sell a bottle that is up to 50 gallons? You might want to do a big water change first to bring it down some - then add it in. If you can help it, they recommend to feed sparingly and not change water during first week or so

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tonyjuliano Proficient

tonyjuliano

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My experienced opinion…

Do as big a water change, or series of them, to reduce the nitrite.

Resist the urge to treat “chemically” there is no bottled product that will permanently fix this situation, or even help without potentially causing other issues.

Let the cycle establish itself on its own as much as possible.  

Yes, you are more than likely going to lose some fish, but given the situation, that is probably going to happen no matter what you dump in that tank.

 

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erik.hueno Contributor

erik.hueno

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On 7/2/2021 at 1:39 PM, GameCzar said:

You've already gotten great advice, but I just want to also tell you we've had great luck with Prime during ammonia/nitrite spikes.

It's a product I keep handy now, and always will. 

Thanks! Do you have to add it with water changes, or can you add it to a full tank?

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