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Fluval Plant 3.0 Scheduling and Programming


Streetwise

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I'm struggling to get swords to grow in my 55. To be honest they grew better before I got the Fluval 3. 

I've got it pretty cranked down with a long photo period. I heard swords like a long day. Not sure. I also give root tabs once a month.

The amber and red are to give a more sunrise and sunset look. Any advice is appreciated.

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Wow this thread is gold! Thanks @Streetwise and everyone else who posted their schedules! 

I am running 2 of the 36-48 inches in my 40 breeder and a nano in my 5 gallon. Both have CO2 injection. 

I haven't experimented with the pro feature because the Planted mode works fine for both tanks. I do have a shorter 8 hour schedule though.

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(I am currently using this tank just to keep the trimmings from the other one until I find someone to take them 😁)

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Edited by Machete
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@Machete two of the 3.0 on a 40 breeder? Are you growing a lot of high light plants? I am going to get one for a 40 breeder project, I saw on the co-op website it says that one would be med-high light and should be plenty for most of the plants I would grow. Do you think one would be enough? I will have co2, but not planning on any light demanding plants.

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3 hours ago, Andy's Fish Den said:

@Machete two of the 3.0 on a 40 breeder? Are you growing a lot of high light plants? I am going to get one for a 40 breeder project, I saw on the co-op website it says that one would be med-high light and should be plenty for most of the plants I would grow. Do you think one would be enough? I will have co2, but not planning on any light demanding plants.

Yes, I have a lot of carpeting and high light plants. I also got a second light because the first one wasn't reaching everywhere. It was more a mater of coverage than intensity, really.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've got a bad BBA problem in my 40 Breeder and I think lighting is the primary cause with my fluval 3.0 it's to strong lol. I'm currently dosing easy green and almost 10 pumps a day and I can't get my Nitrates passed 5 to save my life. The tank is planted fairly heavily just wondering what schedules people prefer on that tank size to minimize light so Nitrates can build back up so that the plants can take back the tank from the BBA.

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Greetings everyone,

I’ve got a 160 gallon that I recently converted from all artificial plants to live. Because the tank is tall (30”), I’m running 4 of the Plant 3.0’s: 2 x 36”, 1 x 48”, and 1 x 24. (Odd sizes, but it’s what was in stock to get two rows of 72”.)

I’m injecting CO2 and dosing with Easy Green, Excel Flourish (for algae control while it gets established), and Easy Root Tabs in a pool filter sand substrate. My solenoid is tied into my Apex pH monitor and I’m still finding the balance between it and my drop checker.

I ran @Bentley Pascoe day sim for the first couple of weeks and today I dialed all the settings back by 25%, because I’m trying to get the diatoms and green spot algae under control. I knew the tank was deep, but these lights are INTENSE. So, 4 may have been overkill, but I get great coverage in my “big” tank. Needless to say, today is the first day of max intensity of 75%. Hopefully, that will give the otos, amanos, and snails time to catch up while the plants fill in before gradually increasing the intensity. 
 

Anyhow, that’s my setup and my plan. If anyone that has been doing this for a while sees any flaws, feel free to educate me. That’s why we’re all here, after all. Thanks!

 

Jesse
 

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This came up in another thread. You can route the power cord and airline tubing through the Plant Nano mount:

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The felt feet are from previous use on the glass cover of a rimmed tank, before Fluval came out with the 15 inch model. It is actually a great way to use these lights.

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Edited by Streetwise
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I just got a 3.0 that arrived yesterday from the coop. It is the 36" model, going on a 40 breeder. I watched @Bentley Pascoe videos last night on programming it and I have am going with his recommendation of starting at 50% and adding intensity over time. My question for those who have used one on a 40 breeder, do you just have it sitting on the tank rim, or should I hang it over the tank? Right now the tank is being used to grow and convert a bunch of plants I recently bought. 

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7 minutes ago, Andy's Fish Den said:

I just got a 3.0 that arrived yesterday from the coop. It is the 36" model, going on a 40 breeder. I watched @Bentley Pascoe videos last night on programming it and I have am going with his recommendation of starting at 50% and adding intensity over time. My question for those who have used one on a 40 breeder, do you just have it sitting on the tank rim, or should I hang it over the tank? Right now the tank is being used to grow and convert a bunch of plants I recently bought. 

If you can hang it, I would do so.  You only need like 4-5" above the tank to get really good spread.  All mine sit on rim, which does work, but in a perfect world I would have a riser or hang them.

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49 minutes ago, Bentley Pascoe said:

If you can hang it, I would do so.  You only need like 4-5" above the tank to get really good spread.  All mine sit on rim, which does work, but in a perfect world I would have a riser or hang them.

That's the way I was leaning, I figured it would give a little more light spread. Your three part series on these lights were very helpful for me to get the light set up, eventually I may even try out the pro mode.

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I have a 48" on my 55g low-tech heavily planted tank. Below is my current schedule. I wanted something that looked somewhat natural, with sunrise and sunset, and no siestas. I also wanted a fairly long viewing window. The long sunrise and sunset times that are high on pink/warm white or blue give me extra lighting for viewing without having so much light during those hours that I get much algae. I have a little gha growing on two branches that are just a few inches below the light at the top of the tank, and a little bba on the edges of one or two plant leaves that have grown right up to the top of the tank's surface and are only a couple inches below the light, but no major algae issues and plenty of plant growth. It probably helps that I keep the lighting at moderate levels even during the middle of the day, and that I have a fairly deep tank.

 

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Edited by ererer
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@Frank, that is a great question regarding PAR, power, output, and the percentage display in the software interface. I am hesitant to speculate. Maybe someone here can test!

@James Black, it will be great on a five gallon. I have Nanos on five tanks that are five gallons or smaller. My other Nanos are on a 7.5, tubs, and buckets. I almost always recommend the high bracket configuration, and you won't need a lot of power. Some of my posted schedules are for this size range, and I'm sure you could find or scale others.

The only consideration is if it is a rimmed tank, you will need to have someone 3D print that rimmed tank adapter that I link to in the first post. The file is free to download. My buddy who designed it says it needs an m8-1.25 nut for it from your local hardware store. I am embarrassed that I haven't tried it myself yet.

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Great info! I am switching from quickgrow lights on my 135 gal tank to 2-36” 3.0 plant. The lights will be suspended 3” above tank due to maintenance mostly and glass lids. This tank has been running for 3 years, crypts, swords, hygro, dwarf swords, Anubis.  No CO2 nor will there be. Started using Thrive C at half dose and thrive root tabs 3 weeks ago due to nitrates at 20 ppm week end. Tank runs on a 60 gal sump, 28 rainbows so I do 50% wc weekly. I am trying to figure out best light setting. Current lights run for 4 hours with 2 hour siesta. Thank you. 

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