Fluval Plant 3.0 Scheduling and Programming

[Frank]

• Here are the settings that I'm using, so far, on my newly set up fifteen gallon (24" x 12" x 12") tank. I just scaled the preset "PRO" color balance. I"ve had the 24" light for only a few days, so it's too soon to report any results.

Edited January 14, 2021 by Frank
add info

[Fenrir]

I've got a bad BBA problem in my 40 Breeder and I think lighting is the primary cause with my fluval 3.0 it's to strong lol. I'm currently dosing easy green and almost 10 pumps a day and I can't get my Nitrates passed 5 to save my life. The tank is planted fairly heavily just wondering what schedules people prefer on that tank size to minimize light so Nitrates can build back up so that the plants can take back the tank from the BBA.

[James Gallo]

I bought the smallest size fluval 3.0 which I believe is 15 inches. I absolutely love the light and customizability but it is a bit too short for my 10g, the sides of the tank don’t seem to get enough light. Any tips on raising the light or better dispersing it to the sides, or should I upgrade to the next bigger size?

[jessewatson]

Greetings everyone,

I’ve got a 160 gallon that I recently converted from all artificial plants to live. Because the tank is tall (30”), I’m running 4 of the Plant 3.0’s: 2 x 36”, 1 x 48”, and 1 x 24. (Odd sizes, but it’s what was in stock to get two rows of 72”.)

I’m injecting CO2 and dosing with Easy Green, Excel Flourish (for algae control while it gets established), and Easy Root Tabs in a pool filter sand substrate. My solenoid is tied into my Apex pH monitor and I’m still finding the balance between it and my drop checker.

I ran @Bentley Pascoe day sim for the first couple of weeks and today I dialed all the settings back by 25%, because I’m trying to get the diatoms and green spot algae under control. I knew the tank was deep, but these lights are INTENSE. So, 4 may have been overkill, but I get great coverage in my “big” tank. Needless to say, today is the first day of max intensity of 75%. Hopefully, that will give the otos, amanos, and snails time to catch up while the plants fill in before gradually increasing the intensity. 
 

Anyhow, that’s my setup and my plan. If anyone that has been doing this for a while sees any flaws, feel free to educate me. That’s why we’re all here, after all. Thanks!

 

Jesse
 

[Streetwise]

This came up in another thread. You can route the power cord and airline tubing through the Plant Nano mount:

The felt feet are from previous use on the glass cover of a rimmed tank, before Fluval came out with the 15 inch model. It is actually a great way to use these lights.

Edited January 24, 2021 by Streetwise

[Streetwise]

I pumped up the Nano lights for my tubs today, and I may go for more. I want better plant growth, and more algae for my shrimp.

[Robmiy]

 Hi just got my 3.0 light I have a 55 gallon I was wondering if I can get a good starting   Suggestions settings I got co2 at 1 BPS 

[Rhonda]

I am so glad I found this post!  This is so helpful seeing how everyone is using the Fluval 3.0 and the app.  I am debating on purchasing this light for my new tank.

[Streetwise]

@Robmiy, I believe that there are some programs in the thread for taller tanks with CO2.

@Rhonda, if you choose the Fluval 3.0, I think that you will really enjoy it.

Cheers

Edited February 4, 2021 by Streetwise

[Andy's Fish Den]

I just got a 3.0 that arrived yesterday from the coop. It is the 36" model, going on a 40 breeder. I watched @Bentley Pascoe videos last night on programming it and I have am going with his recommendation of starting at 50% and adding intensity over time. My question for those who have used one on a 40 breeder, do you just have it sitting on the tank rim, or should I hang it over the tank? Right now the tank is being used to grow and convert a bunch of plants I recently bought. 

[Bentley Pascoe]

7 minutes ago, Andy's Fish Den said:

I just got a 3.0 that arrived yesterday from the coop. It is the 36" model, going on a 40 breeder. I watched @Bentley Pascoe videos last night on programming it and I have am going with his recommendation of starting at 50% and adding intensity over time. My question for those who have used one on a 40 breeder, do you just have it sitting on the tank rim, or should I hang it over the tank? Right now the tank is being used to grow and convert a bunch of plants I recently bought. 

If you can hang it, I would do so.  You only need like 4-5" above the tank to get really good spread.  All mine sit on rim, which does work, but in a perfect world I would have a riser or hang them.

[Andy's Fish Den]

49 minutes ago, Bentley Pascoe said:

If you can hang it, I would do so.  You only need like 4-5" above the tank to get really good spread.  All mine sit on rim, which does work, but in a perfect world I would have a riser or hang them.

That's the way I was leaning, I figured it would give a little more light spread. Your three part series on these lights were very helpful for me to get the light set up, eventually I may even try out the pro mode.

[Odd Alan]

Great idea!

I used (2) old cassette tape boxes to raise my Fluval about 4 inches(the cassette boxes are pinched in the leg extensions).

[BTW: using the Lake Malawi preset.]

[Maggie]

I've got one on the wish list for my betta tank and can't wait to see what it can do - I HATE my other lights, but they were way too much $$ to just replace now. 

[Eric R]

I have a 48" on my 55g low-tech heavily planted tank. Below is my current schedule. I wanted something that looked somewhat natural, with sunrise and sunset, and no siestas. I also wanted a fairly long viewing window. The long sunrise and sunset times that are high on pink/warm white or blue give me extra lighting for viewing without having so much light during those hours that I get much algae. I have a little gha growing on two branches that are just a few inches below the light at the top of the tank, and a little bba on the edges of one or two plant leaves that have grown right up to the top of the tank's surface and are only a couple inches below the light, but no major algae issues and plenty of plant growth. It probably helps that I keep the lighting at moderate levels even during the middle of the day, and that I have a fairly deep tank.

 

Edited February 12, 2021 by ererer

[Frank]

Has anyone done light meter tests of the settings? Is the 40% setting actually 40% of the 100% setting?

[FrozenFins]

I am wanting to setup a high tech 5  gallon planted tank for a future pea puffer. I have never used a Fluval 3.0 but was wondering you all thought about putting the fluval 3.0 nano on a 5 gallon? 

[Streetwise]

@Frank, that is a great question regarding PAR, power, output, and the percentage display in the software interface. I am hesitant to speculate. Maybe someone here can test!

@James Black, it will be great on a five gallon. I have Nanos on five tanks that are five gallons or smaller. My other Nanos are on a 7.5, tubs, and buckets. I almost always recommend the high bracket configuration, and you won't need a lot of power. Some of my posted schedules are for this size range, and I'm sure you could find or scale others.

The only consideration is if it is a rimmed tank, you will need to have someone 3D print that rimmed tank adapter that I link to in the first post. The file is free to download. My buddy who designed it says it needs an m8-1.25 nut for it from your local hardware store. I am embarrassed that I haven't tried it myself yet.

[Eric R]

On 2/15/2021 at 11:06 AM, Frank said:

Has anyone done light meter tests of the settings? Is the 40% setting actually 40% of the 100% setting?

I may be borrowing a PAR meter to test some other lights in the near future. If I do, I can test this as well and post the results here.

[Parri]

Great info! I am switching from quickgrow lights on my 135 gal tank to 2-36” 3.0 plant. The lights will be suspended 3” above tank due to maintenance mostly and glass lids. This tank has been running for 3 years, crypts, swords, hygro, dwarf swords, Anubis.  No CO2 nor will there be. Started using Thrive C at half dose and thrive root tabs 3 weeks ago due to nitrates at 20 ppm week end. Tank runs on a 60 gal sump, 28 rainbows so I do 50% wc weekly. I am trying to figure out best light setting. Current lights run for 4 hours with 2 hour siesta. Thank you. 

[Parri]

This is the tank I’m switching the lights on. They just arrived and hangers arriving today as well. I’m home all day, feed fish around 6 pm and do water changes when the lights are on. I am removing the spiderwood on the left side and adding a red lily and jungle Val. I’m open to split photo period due to no CO2. What settings would you wise people recommend? 

[PlaneFishGuy]

Below is a quick cheat sheet I made for those just wanting to simply reduce the lighting intensity but keep the factory ratios in tact. I started with the factory "daylight setting" from the app when using the Fluval Plant Nano 3.0

Edited March 26, 2021 by PlaneFishGuy

[CichlidManiac]

I am looking for settings for my refugium. I want maximum growth WITH algae. These are my current settings... I am growing a huge blob of Java moss mainly but there is also hornwort, water sprite, anubias, and some duckweed floating around. No fish in the refugium but there are shrimp and snails. Any help from fellow refugees would be appreciated! 

Edited April 3, 2021 by CichlidManiac
Added pic of refugium

[CalmedByFish]

Quick question. Is it normal for a Fluval 3.0 to get so hot that it hurts to hold your finger on the power button? (I just noticed this yesterday, after the light had been at full brightness all day. I don't know if it's happening when dimmer.)

[Frank]

1 hour ago, CalmedByFish said:

Quick question. Is it normal for a Fluval 3.0 to get so hot that it hurts to hold your finger on the power button? (I just noticed this yesterday, after the light had been at full brightness all day. I don't know if it's happening when dimmer.)

What size is your light? 

My 24" - 34", 32 watt light is barely warm to the touch.

Edited April 9, 2021 by Frank