RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Just added my betta to my next tank two days ago. He hasn't eaten anything and kind of just hangs around the heater. Tank temp reads 76 based on thermometer in the opposite corner. Should I be concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmiller2001 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 Increase temp to 78-80. What are your water parameters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 Temp Is up to 78. Ammonia looks like .25(I think the spike is from the food laying around. Nitrites 0 Nitrate between 5 and 10. Ph is 7.2. I also took some plants from my other tank when I added the fish for the bb help. Just so I don't get a crazy spike in a 5 gallon tank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sudofish Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 It may just take a few days for him to understand feeding time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 OK. I just took another decoration out of my other tank and he seems to be enjoying it. Since the temp has come up he seems more active. He has a Lyme bit of fun damage as well. I assume from being stuck in those like cold at the store. Is there something I can do to help repair it or will it just take time and healthy water to repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 Little bit of fin damage* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 Also should I try and feed small amounts throughout the day until he understands what food is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colu Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 I would do a water changes and add prime to detoxify the ammonia your seeing for the fin rot your seeing I would monitor for now if it starts to get worse I would treat with aquarium salt 1 table spoon for 2 gallons for 1 weeks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmiller2001 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 16 minutes ago, RyanU said: Also should I try and feed small amounts throughout the day until he understands what food is Only if you clean out the old food. I would dose prime 2x the normal dose if you have prime. That will detox ammonia temporarily. You can dose every 24 hours. 78 is the low range, personally, I would take him no lower than 79. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 OK. I was hoping that the 3 plants and thy decoration from my other tank would be enough bb to handle the betta. I will keep an eye on it and dose with prime if I need to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmiller2001 Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 3 minutes ago, RyanU said: OK. I was hoping that the 3 plants and thy decoration from my other tank would be enough bb to handle the betta. I will keep an eye on it and dose with prime if I need to It will help. I would just dose to be double sure until your BB is in full charge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 OK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NanoNano Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) I have 8 different Betta tanks going on right now...A couple of thoughts and opinions (few scientifically proven facts) to share: Breeders almost always raise male Bettas in isolation in small bare cups, bottles, "tanks" etc. often less than a gallon. While you've put your Betta into something that mimics a natural environment, it's not natural to him yet. Little guy just made the transition from a black and white reality to color, so he's living through his own real live episode of Wandavision. A bit of shock and awe and acting cautious is normal and actually very desirable to me. If I get and brand new male and he goes charging around his tank in an hour or two, I know that I have a one track mind Alpha that's going to nip and chase anything else that goes in his tank. I've read on the internet (so, opinions not scientifically proven facts) that the prevalent aquarium nitrifying bacteria is actually one of the slower growing bacteria in water- taking a colony something like 8-10 hours to double in size under optimal conditions. Seems to make sense to me given that there's a lot of square footage on the surface of substrate for the bacteria to cover and that it can often take weeks for water tests to show "stable". Long way of saying that even with bacteria introduced on plants and decor, building a tank biome takes more time than any of us want. One thing that I've read (again, opinion from the internet) is that the nitrifying bacteria grow best where there's a constant water flow over them...so if your plants and/or decor are near your filter intake, or there's an air stone near by creating water circulation that could be helpful. I've seen Bettas get fed everything from live blood worms to flakes at different stores in the same chain, so it's tough to tell what this guy is accustomed to and "thinks" food should smell like. I've found it helpful with new guys to feed tiny portions of same food (every feeding) at the same corner of the tank a couple of times a day- most guys come around by their second or third day in the tank. I have yet to own a Betta that hasn't gone berserk for Fluval's Betta Bug Bites, so if you have someone that continues to refuse to eat what you already have on hand, I'd add that to your "try" list. There's multiple right ways to care for fish, so I'm not pooh-poohing anyone else's strategy. My preference is that if I have an elevated level of anything undesirable in my tank and *I have the time to do it*, I do a water change. Chemical reactions work by consuming some elements from the water column and elevating/introducing others- which can effect your biome (and plants and other critters) especially when it's trying to initially build itself. A subsequent water change is going to change the water column yet again if you "dose" with chemicals, so rather than "two step things" I prefer to go straight to a water change. Again, no one's advice is right or wrong here, just different thinking, different levels of effort, different levels of getting your hands and arms (and carpet in my case) wet, and different time commitments. Good luck to both you and your fish! Edited May 31, 2021 by NanoNano 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 @Mmiller2001 i have slowly been increasing the temp in the tank. Based on the thermometer is just under 80. @NanoNano i guess I'm just is to other fish. The moment you put rhythm in thy tank bam there they go. How long do you expect him to act like this before I need to be concerned there is something wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted May 31, 2021 Author Share Posted May 31, 2021 @Colu attached are some pictures. Can you tell if it is fun rot or just damage from being in a tiny cup store the images are upside down. But you can see the gap in the back on towards the middle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colu Posted May 31, 2021 Share Posted May 31, 2021 (edited) 1 hour ago, RyanU said: @Colu attached are some pictures. Can you tell if it is fun rot or just damage from being in a tiny cup store the images are upside down. But you can see the gap in the back on towards the middle 8 hours ago, Colu said: I would do a water changes and add prime to detoxify the Ammonia it could be fin rot I would monitor for now if it starts to to develop I would treat with aquarium salt 1 table spoon for 2 gallons for 1 weeks As long as your siphoning his old food out try feeding small amounts if you can live brine shrimp or Daphnia or soak his pellets in seachems garlic guard to encourage him to eat Edited May 31, 2021 by Colu 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NanoNano Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, RyanU said: @NanoNano i guess I'm just is to other fish. The moment you put rhythm in thy tank bam there they go. How long do you expect him to act like this before I need to be concerned there is something wrong Dude's a looker! I have a particular weakness for blue Bettas with red fins- nice choice! A Betta with some meat on his bones can go a week without food without really any ill effects and probably another 2-3 weeks on top of that to skinny up before he approaches risk for irreversible problems. You have a time buffer before health problems come into play, but a Betta's normal eating pattern is usually twice a day and you want to get him back in a natural rhythm. Betta's stomachs are supposedly about the size of their eyeballs, so you want to kind of target providing that size portion of food for him. @Colu is putting you on an excellent path. Try some different foods per their suggestions (maybe even call the store you got him from and see if they can tell you what food they were feeding him?). As far as fin rot goes, fin rot typically causes the edges of fins to become ragged with either black (dead tissue) or a reddish (raw and bloody) tinge. I'm seeing clear fin tips on your betta which I've most often seen in new fin growth (pigmentation usually gradually comes into the new growth 1-3 weeks after the growth appears). If you don't have it already, I'd suggest getting a bottle of Seachem Stressguard (Paraguard will work too in lower dosages than Stressguard). Stressguard contains a dye that has topical antiseptic properties and will adhere to your Betta's fins and scales. I've found it very good at helping Bettas heal from fin damage of all sorts and you can dose it prophylacticly (I always wanted to use that word correctly in polite company!) without fear of harming your guy. Do be aware though that the dye can permanently stain some types of silicone. If you're new to Bettas and/or tank doesn't have long tall plants that your guy can prop himself on and snooze on, I'd suggest that you get one of those suction cup fake leaf "hammocks" or one of the resin "floating log"s they sell. You want to keep your guy from resting at the bottom of the tank where his fins can come in direct contact with his poop, decaying food, or the bacteria that favor either. Edited June 1, 2021 by NanoNano 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 I was going to call the store today and see what they feed them. He didn't seem interested in eating this morning. Also he hasn't really left the corner of the tank next to the heater. The thermometer in the tank in the opposite corner reads just under 80. Should I be concerned he doesn't move from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colu Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 2 hours ago, RyanU said: I was going to call the store today and see what they feed them. He didn't seem interested in eating this morning. Also he hasn't really left the corner of the tank next to the heater. The thermometer in the tank in the opposite corner reads just under 80. Should I be concerned he doesn't move from there. What have tryed feeding him and are you sure the heater working properly he might be cold if he is hanging around next to the heater Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 I have tried flake food. Frozen brine hikari crab cuisine and shrimp pellets for bottom feeders. I'm gonna go get the betta bug bites today after work. I can only assume the heater is working. The temp is staying at 79. I'm also going to pick up an air pump and stone. My only concern is will they be to much water movement. I could add a valve to control the flow of that becomes an issue. He seems to be staying as far away from the filter(whisper) as possible. There are three plants in the tank and the only one that is moving from the current is the one closest to the intake. The more I research and watch i think it's lack of oxygen why he is hanging out at the top. But the eating is Also a major concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colu Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 I would try hikari Betta bio gold and soak it in seachems garlic guard it should encourage him to eat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmiller2001 Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 Have you treated with any meds at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 OK. I will try that. No I haven't used any meds. Whet so you think I should try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmiller2001 Posted June 1, 2021 Share Posted June 1, 2021 3 minutes ago, RyanU said: OK. I will try that. No I haven't used any meds. Whet so you think I should try If he's not eating, he's dying. I would hit him full med trio. If you don't have those meds on hand, I would use Fritz Paracleanse/API General Cure and start today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanU Posted June 1, 2021 Author Share Posted June 1, 2021 Ok i will pick that up as well. I asked a while back when i was setting this tank up if should get meds and start dosing right away and i was told to just wait and see. I just checked the tank and it looks like he is lying on his side under a decoration. I took the air pump feeding my other tank and ran a line temporarily to his tank to see if that helps as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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