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  1. Hello friends, I have been struggling with planaria for quite some time. I have read many suggestions about gravel vacuuming and feeding less. I've tried both inasmuch as I can. I have a monte carlo carpet (picture attached) so it's perfect for them to hide in. I do vacuum it (at the risk of up-rooting plants) and I collect a lot of planaria. However, at the end of the day, I can't keep up with it and I'm done trying "natural" ways of getting rid of planaria. Thus, I'm looking to treat the tank chemically with either Panacur C (fenbendazole, animal de-wormer) or No-Planaria made w/ Betal Palm Nut extract and produced by Genchem. I've seen a few of my shrimp be killed by planaria so I'm very fed up with them. I've read many stories, good and bad, about using both products. For example, while using No-Planaria some had their biological filter bacteria crash and thus, toxin levels rised rapidly. Or, that fenbendazole has killed shrimp and made them early molt. Or, many stories of people using either product and both worked fine with no problems. My tank is stocked with some valuable fish (chili rasboras, other micro rasboras, celestial pearl danios, emerald dwarf rasboras, pgymy corydoras and a lot of cherry shrimp) so I'm very hesitant about doing any chemical treatment at the risk of killing any of my livestock. I know that Girl Talks Fish (who works with Aquarium Co-Op) has made a video about using Panacur C and the dosing of it but I'm still hesitant. Can anyone shed some light on the truth about the safety of using fenbendazole or No-Planaria in an aquarium? Is there just some level of risk that much be accepted if using either? Is one more riskier than the other? Should I try to remove all my fish temporarily when treating the tank? Are fish more at risk to either of these treatments than shrimp are? Thanks for your help and insight! Tank specs: 22 gallon, remineralize RO water with Salty Shrimp GH/KH+, C02 injection, Oase Biomaster 300 filter w/ Seachem Matrix media
  2. Let's start with the swim bladder most case of swim bladder are cause by over feeding and the stomach putting pressure on the swim bladder constipation or bacterial infection of the swim bladder and injury to the swim bladder Frist I would recommend fasting your fish for a couple of days and doing epsom salt baths 1 table spoon for 2 gallons for no more than 15 minutes 2-3 times a day as eposm salt acts as a muscle relaxants to help with constipation if that has no effect then I would treat with antibiotic medication in food Kanaplex is my go to antibiotic treatment you could also use maracyn2 and furan2 are not very effective at a higher pH above 7.8 if your in the UK I would treat with Sera baktopur direct tables if it's a damage swim bladder caused by an injury it case of wait and see some will improve given time other will not improve and may have to be euthanize if you think there suffering clove oil is one of the most humane ways to euthanize your fish
  3. I have a 29g planted tank, it only has ottos, corydoras & 1 baby super red BN. After adding new fish this tank broke out with fungal infections. A combo of Kanaplex & API furan-2 knocked it out. But at the end of treatment my pleco started showing signs of something odd on her head. Ammonia: 0ppm Nitrates: under 20ppm Nitrite: 0ppm Chlorine: 0ppm. GH: 150ppm. Alkalinity(KH) 60ppm PH: 7.6- Temp 76°-78° I'm going to upload a photo of the tank & then of her progression. This has happened over the period of 4-6 weeks. I don't know what it is or how to treat it. I keep posting on Fishlore & nobody is responding! & I am starting to be consumed with worry & panic! the last photos are from today. Is this a parasite, fungus, bacteria? HITH?
  4. Hey all, I have a colony of Chapalichthys pardalis (the Leopard Goodeid) and I've had them in their tank for about 8 months now. All was fine and they were even breeding, so I was quite pleased. (Great little fish btw.) I had one fish a week ago present with something that looked like hole-in-the-head. I thought that was mainly a cichlid disease, so I suspected also that it could have been trauma from aggression from tankmates (they chase around a lot but I've never seen them actually fight.) The spot had gotten quite a bit worse over about 3 days (it spread and showed obvious deformity to the head, but wasn't exactly deep.) I isolated it and added aquarium salt and erythromycin... it went from very active and behaving normally to dead within minutes of putting him in that isolation tank. 😕 I had even animated him to the temp, used dechlorinator, and half of it was water from his old tank. So not sure what was going on there. Here is the fish that died: I thought it was perhaps a fluke- an older adult with a weakened immune system- but now I can see the beginnings of the same spot on two other adults in the colony. This suggests to me that I should treat the entire tank, but with what? Does anyone have experience using aquarium salt with goodeids? It ought to be ok. I have had bad luck in the past adding erythromycin to QT tanks. This is the second time that I've had a fish die within minutes of exposure. (I know we talk about the fallacy of treating a sick fish with a med, and yet sick fish dies anyway, but it is not normal for this to happen so quickly.) Behavior has been 100% normal. 20gal tank with what is now 4 adults and about 8 large fry. Planted tank witha sponge filter as well as a Fluval U1 underwater filter. Params: 70.2*F, pH 8.0 (normal for my hard water), nitrate a bit high at 50ppm (got a little overenthusiastic with the Easy Green,- I'll do a water change), nitrite 0 ppm, hardness GH 300+, buffer KH 300+, Chlorine 0ppm. All of this is pretty normal. I have been struggling with excess mulm in the tank lately but unsure if that would cause an issue. I do weekly water changes from 30-50%, using Prime to dechlorinate. No ides what has caused this. I contacted the breeder I purchased them from and he said he had never seen it in his colony and recommended metronidazole if it is hole-in-the-head, which like I said, I'm not sure. But it certainly seems like something infectious. Please help! This is an endangered goodied species and I will feel very bad if I lose them. (Well, I'd feel bad regardless.) Please be clear in your answer if you have experience treating goodieds or if you've just mined info from the internet. I am trying to figure out if they are particularly sensitive to meds or something. Thank you! Current fish: pardon this blurry pic, of course they won't cooperate 🙄
  5. 10 gallon planted with 2 sponge filters. Water parameters: Temp - 78F Nitrate - 0 (I know, I need to feed my plants, I've been worried more about the fish lately) Nitrite - 0 GH (ppm) - 300 (I think - aquarium coop test kit, light lavender) KH (ppm) - 80 pH - 7.2 Chlorine - 0 Ammonia - 0 Okay guys, I don't know what I'm doing. I'm still fairly new to the hobby, but I've been trying my best to care for my betta, Mushi. I got him 8/31/21, so I haven't had him long, but he's already been scaring me to death this month. I feed him Hikari freeze dried daphnia, Hikari betta bio-gold, and frozen spirulina brine shrimp. I only ever accidentally overfed him once at the beginning of this month (with the brine shrimp), and I think that's where all this started. I fasted him for 2-3 days after overfeeding (he had gotten bloated), and his bloat did decrease significantly to where he was either back to normal or close enough to it that my untrained eyes couldn't tell. I fasted one more day just to be sure. The next day I couldn't find him anywhere and was really starting to worry when I found him hiding/cornering between two floating plants. He had no appetite despite the several day fast and had actually bloated up again. Water parameters were similar to what I outlined above; only difference was probably nitrates but still within acceptable range. I did a 10% WC anyway and added a catappa leaf. The day after he was still hiding and had severe pineconing. I did a 5% WC just because, but was pretty much panicking so I started medicating with Fritz Maracyn. I did a full course treatment (5 days, no WC). He got his appetite back on day 2, energy back day 3, and bloat was down day 4 but the pineconing was still pretty severe on his left side (whitish at the base and looked like some scales were going to fall off). On day 5 his pineconing was significantly reduced, but there was a circular white area with what looked like a singular stringy white strand right behind his left pectoral fin where the pineconing (and bloat) had been the worst. I think he did lose some scales and this was the result. The stringy bit was gone the day after and the sore or whatever it was rapidly healed. I also did a 25% WC. Also, that's not ich or a sore on his face, he swam past some detritus caught in a floater's roots. Again, to be safe, I rested him a couple days like the package says and then did another round of treatment (1 packet/5 days). The last day for that was 11/14, and I still saw slight pineconing. Nowhere near as bad as before, but I think any is bad. I also did a 25% WC on the 15th and did a 10% WC today (will probably do 10% every other day unless someone gives me different advice). The rest of the photos are from today (11/17/21). He also still looks slightly bloated, though not as bad as before, and I've been feeding him every other day. I'd say I'm even feeding him incredibly sparingly, just one meal a day, no bigger than his eyeball. So all that to ask, do I treat him with Maracyn again? Do I just keep treating him until he stops pineconing? He's already been through 2 full courses of treatment so I don't know if that's the right move. Should I try an Epsom salt soak for 15 minutes like I've heard? I'd have to pick it up tomorrow. And not only all that, but I'm wondering if I should be concerned about the state of his poop? I know it can be an indicator of health issues and, well, he's pooping in the pic so I guess you can tell me if I need to change up his diet. I don't know what to do guys and I'm feeling really discouraged. I'd appreciate any help.
  6. So I got this bulb from the coop yesterday and since then it has grown this white fuzz on it. Am I doing something wrong?
  7. Pretty sure my betta has dropsy. He stopped eating 2 days ago, and acting more lethargic, not wanting to swim or move, and hanging at the top. Now today I see he is starting to pinecone. I am going to quarantine. I have read salt helps ... I have aquarium salt, but I just saw a video that said not to use aquarium salt, and to use epsom salt instead. Is this true? If so, how much per gallon? Also I am going to get some meds to treat. Any suggestions on the best kind? I realize the chances or low, but I feel like I have to try! I also realize I may need to euthanize ... I don't want him to suffer if I can't help him. FYI, he is kept in a heated 5gal tank with sponge filter. Water tested at 0 for ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites.
  8. I noticed 2 spots on the tip of my Angelfish's dorsal fin. On closer look they appeared to be fuzzy like a q-tip kind of texture. Difficult to see in the photo. He does not like the camera one bit, so it was hard to get anything. He doesn't seem to have it anywhere else. Not sure if it was from injury or not. May have been nipped (not likely as he's the tank boss). May have brushed up on an ornament or something. Tank temp has been a few degrees higher than norm due to local heat waves that have gone on for weeks. I would say the tank hit about 81c for a while, so may have stressed him a bit. Treatment and Tank details below. Wondering how long it takes to cure it, and if I'm going about it the right way? I'm in Canada, so only use what meds I have on hand when really needed. I still have General Cure, Erythromycin....Have been using it as he didn't seem to get better with frequent water changes. Treatment so far: 50% water change, deep gravel vac Removed purigen Conditioner: Fluval Aqua+ (has aloe in it for their skin.) Started with ich-x about 2 weeks ago. 50% water change about 4 days into treatment and re-dosed Ich-x. Didn't see a big change in the 2 spots, but didn't get worse 4-days in...another 40% water change Added does of Erythromycin and ich-x 2nd spot now gone Doing another water change today and will re-dose both meds Tank details & tankmates: Water Parameters: (well planted tank, my numbers are always like this) Ammonia: 0 Nitrites: 0 Nitrates: 5.0 Tank size: 29g planted tank Filters: Tidal 55(reduced flow to low) + sponge filter, bubble wall and a few smaller airstones through the tank lighting: Aqueon hood with 2 light strips. Temp: 79C Angelfish: about 1.5yrs old, other fish going on 3yrs Tankmates: 5 black neon tetras, 1x hillstream loach Norm do water changes / gravel vac every 2 weeks. Numbers are always good. Water needs to be topped up, and I gravel vac to get rid of detritis. Photo with affected area circled
  9. LoriG

    Sick betta

    Water Parameters: pH= 8.2 Nitrates= 5 Hardness= 19 Nitrite=0 Ammonia=0 KH/Buffer= 12 Water Temperature= 79 My betta, Maverick, has been sick for almost a week. He is lethargic, has clamped fins and color loss. He spends all of his time on the bottom of the tank and hasn’t eaten in 2 days. I don’t know what’s wrong so I treated him yesterday with the trio of meds & dosing recommended by Cory- ParaCleanse, IchX and Maracyn. No improvement yet. I know my pH is too high but it’s been stable. I have almond leaves and fritz dark water to help with healing. I know I shouldn’t do a water change for 1 week. What do I do if my parameters get wacky? I’m worried I’ll have an ammonia spike or my nitrates will get much higher. Also, if he’s not eating(& I’m not feeding him per instructions), will my biofilter crash? I’m including pics in case someone has an idea of what’s going on. Thanks for any help!
  10. So this 20L is unplanted ish, heavily planted with sculpted hair algae, water is 72° A 0 Ni 0 NA 0 gh 300+ kh 240, stock is 2 breeding American flag fish, 36 sunset sword tail fry and snails (mts,rams,pond) with a couple of shrimp mixed in, my question is, what can I treat with so I can at least see them without putting any chemicals in there because I'd like to avoid any possible contamination of their diet, pics are before and after green, Amazon sword has since been moved
  11. I have had my fish for about 2.5 weeks. I have a betta, some lamb chop rasboras, and three otos. Everything has been fine except that the last few days I noticed that one of my otos rarely moves and just lays around on the bottom of the tank. It is alive as I see its gills move and I have seen it move position in the tank recently. However, I don't think it is eating. The other two have large, round bellies and are constantly eating. This one has a sunken in belly (see oto on top right in the pic). I have algae growing on the plants in the tank and I put in algae pellets for the otos every few days. Any idea why it won't eat and what I could do to get it to eat? TIA! I just did a water change (it was time), but when I checked my water parameters yesterday things looked fine.
  12. Heat treatment has worked wonders in the past against ich, but can pandas take 30°c? Anyone got experience with this? I know they prefer cooler water than most corys.
  13. Hello friends, I've been dealing with this type of algae for a while and don’t know how to get rid of it please advise if you’ve gotten rid of it before. Thank you! https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WvIpwOf5zUl-Navt3pSVkJliBXRCYUFm
  14. Hey I have a question I have a spotted congo puffer that I got 2 weeks ago I did not have a quarantine tank at the time so I put him or her right into the tank. He or she is eating great, but look like he or she has some ich along with possible fin rot he or she's tail was a little banged up from shipping. I got a quarantine tank today 10 gallon. Is it fine if I do maracyn, Para cleanse, and ich x all together. I know Cory does that with all his fish regardless if they have anything, but I want to make sure if I combine all those medicines that it will not kill my 300 dollar puffer. Thankyou for any info.
  15. I'm not sure if my female betta has velvet or some other disease. When I first got her she was my first fish, so she went through a lot of cycling problems and some medications because I over diagnosed her and at some point thought she had every disease a betta can get. She was never lethargic or not eating, but her skin always looked weird and she always had ragged fins. She never really looked better after I treated with meds, and recently she kind of looks like she has velvet (if I shine a flashlight on her head she kind of looks like she has rust on her head). Her skin/scales don't look too good either. The last few days two of her scales started peeling/coming off, and I'm not sure if that is advanced velvet or something. I've treated her for velvet a couple times before, but her head didn't change color so I assumed she didn't have it. I'm not really sure anymore. She's not lethargic, she is still eating and swimming around a lot. She also has cloudy eye or it might be popeye, I though that was because of bad water quality but she has had it for a long time now. In the pictures I am shining a flashlight on her pH: 8.0-8.2 Nitrates: 5-10 ppm when I tested a few days ago Hardness: around 17 dGH Nitrite: 0 Ammonia: 0 KH/Buffer: 6 dKH Water Temperature: 78 F
  16. I bout three Angle fish yesterday I added them to tank and this morning there was one dead one half ways and the third one looks pretty good it ate some flakes this morning. I also have two swordtails in the thank and they are doing good. They all looked awesome fish when I bout them from the pet store. They are quarter size. What AM i DOING WRONG AND WHAT SHOULD i DO TO SAVE SECOND FISH..... HELP!!!!Gold one is doing good
  17. I am at a loss. Water quality spot on, temp 78, excellent filtration, two air stones, calcium, salt,weekly water changes,etc. In the past two and a half weeks I have lost 8 guppies from my 29 gal tank. I treated once with melafix and lost 3 of the 8. My fry is unaffected. One Cory lost part of his dorsal and tail but growing back and doing well. Lost some beautiful fish. It does look like a fungal issue. The fins look as if they disintegrate. Any suggestions.
  18. Two days ago, I brought home a tiny albino bristlenose pleco. He/she was and still is constantly roaming the glass. However, this morning I noticed my pleco has little dots everywhere! Do all albino bristlenose look like this? Does my pleco have Ich? My guppies and guppy fry have nothing visibly wrong with them but I worry they may get sick too since it's been two days. Zero nitrite, nitrate, or ammonia as of this morning. 7.8 ph, 100-200ppm GH/KH.
  19. I have a five gallon pea puffer tank with two nerite snails that's decently planted. I ordered some floating plants off the internet and gave them a thorough salt bath but I suppose it was not enough given the infestation of hydra and planaria in my aquarium. I don't want to nuke the aquarium and start over because I really like the plants that have grown in it. So for now, my current idea is to use No Planaria in the aquarium with my two nerite snails removed in a bowl and just leaving my pea puffer in the aquarium for the duration of the treatment. Is this the best idea, and do you all have any other suggestions? Thank you! P.S. what are the chances of hydra and planaria hitch hiking back into my aquarium on my nerite snails, and how can I prevent this?
  20. Just gone through some water quality problems which are hopefully now addressed looking into the future (I had issues with PH dropping and disrupting the cycle of the tank massively.) 2 blue king tetras have showed symptoms of what I believe is Columnaris? I've moved these guys over to a small hospital setup I have going and have begun dosing salt at 1 tbsp per gallon as I'm told Columnaris can kill very quickly so I didn't feel there was much time to mess around. (I had previously hoped to try a Methylene blue treatment, but in the end I ended up water changing 90% of that out as the fish were hugely distressed and franticly darting when it was in there.) It's been around 2 days now in the salt, and I do believe that I've seen small cotton like threads come loose from the affected areas of the fish. As you can see, there's also quite a clear black outline forming around the affected areas which has become more prominent as the treatment continues. Is there anything more I can do to help these guys as a UK resident? We cannot get antibiotics legally. I'll take any advice and help I can get as I'm very attached to these guys and want to do right by them. Thank you!
  21. Hi! I'm a science teacher that has taken on another teacher's discarded Betta. Backstory: The fish were originally given as gifts years ago, in vases with various plants for filtration. At the start of the shutdown, all of the fish were moved to my class because I had sinks and tables. Fast forward 14 months and only 4 are still alive. I have found homes with students for 3/4. The fourth looks very sickly and so I'm trying to bring him back to his former glory myself (to avoid traumatizing a student). With a little Googling and PetSmart advice, I am trying to prepare a 5 gallon tank for my Betta. I need serious help and guidance. Where do I even start? Pictures include new tank, close up from 5 months ago, close up today with plant moved to new tank.
  22. I got in some cardinal tetras that did fine through a 2 week quarentine then when we put them in the tank we had for them we noticed these spots show up ive dosed the med trio as the packaging said for over a week with no change. They are eating and active and being kept at about 80°f with agressive bubbles from an airstone in a 15 gallon tank with tiger Lilly and cryps and katapa leaves. 8 cardnals in all. Any advice?
  23. Hello everyone - I'm looking for info regarding freshwater diseases, treatments, quarantine protocols, etc. Does such information exist here as a "sticky" or elsewhere? TIA
  24. Bought some Cherry Barbs that were turbo sick. TL/DR I've have beaten everything so far and to my surprise are looking 80% better. However, I need some help. I have 2 that still look overly bloated; causing some color loss in the fish. I don't see worms, but the guy with the most bloat looks to have a small red dot right at the anus. Doesn't look prolapsed or anything. Kinda like a poo is emerging, but not (if that make sense). I've never seen Camallanus, so I'm just not sure. Here's the run down: Med Trio and continued Paracleanse per direction 1 week rest 1 week PraziPro Now I'm starting Metroplex orally. (maybe a stubborn set of tape worms?) I have fenbendazole on hand: So my question is; continue Metro just to see or just go for fenbendazole off my assumption? This guy won't let me get a picture. He only comes out during feeding then goes back to hiding. Thanks for any help!!!
  25. My community betta was sitting on th bottom with her fins clamped a few weeks ago so I put her in QT and treated with maracyn and paracleanse. Fins are all out and she is swimming all over but I've noticed this black marks kind of in between her scales on the back half of her body. Almost looks like dirt. Any ideas what this could be?
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