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Hi All. I'm in the UK. I live in an area that has liquid rock water. Since leaving the EU, reliable, healthy imports have become difficult and more expensive, so I'm starting my own little home business specifically breeding fish for hard water. I have a 90g tank: 4ft long x 2ft tall x18" deep. I also have a 4ft low boy. I have two ideas for breeding stock: 1: 90g with multis plus one or two other Tanganyikan Cichlids to occupy middle and top. 2: 90g with something else and low boy for multis only. My questions are, which option would you choose and what other cichlids would be suitable/ profitable? -
My Tanganyikan community is finally complete! I have had this 40-breeder tank setup for about a year now in several hardscape layouts. Stocking is as follows: Leleupi (1) Brichardi (1) Julidochromis marlieri (1) Gold Compreciceps (1) neolamprologus Buescheri (1) Tropheus Moori (2) (phoenix and kaiser orange) Synondontus catfish I have stuck to feeding spirulina flake and sera granugreen as to not get the tropheus sick. All fish seem to be thriving on this diet. Alot of these Tang cichlids are classified as "carnivores" but they all are small enough that they graze on aufwuchs and algae in the wild. I am sure moving to a more veggie-based diet cant be too harmful in the long run. I do plan to make my own "shrimp mix" which many seasoned tropheus breeders say is a great food. While many are quick to say this tank is "overstocked", it is simply the only way to avoid excess aggression. There is the occasional chasing but nothing out of the ordinary. While we cannot go by everything we see or read on the internet, I have seen that Prime Time Aquatics has kept many more Tang cichlids in a 33-gallon long with great success. The biggest takeaway is adequate rockwork. a majority of these fish are rock dwellers and I find that lava rock is the most cost-effective means of providing that for them. It is very light and cheap. I do wish I could have sourced black lava rock so that it would look more like a biotope but it is hard to find and quite expensive. The only mistake I made when setting up this tank was buying a tretocephalus about 6 months ago. It is a nasty fish and doesn't mix well with other tangs in a confined space. Thankfully a friend in the hobby was able to rehome him. I replaced the tret with two young tropheus and they are thriving amount the rock work. Fell free to ask any questions about keeping Tanganyikans!- 3 replies
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I’m planning out my first African cichlid tank. And I’m thinking of doing a colony of L. similis shell dwellers and a pair of J. transcripts or ornatus. I was envisioning a mostly open tank with a rock outcropping to break sight lines and provide habitat for the Julis. Is this a good plan for an African cichlids beginner? Would it work in a 20L? In a 29? -
I know there was interest in members learning more about shellies because of some of my other posts. I am by no means an expert yet, but thought I would share my triumphs and fails along the way regarding my now 4 tanks dedicated to these fun fish. Tank 1) this is my Lamprologus ornatipinnis kigoma tank 33 long that started with 5 fish. Setup was on March 17th and as I have shared in another post things are going great. My daughter counted 20 fry just before I took the pictures tonight. Tank 2) Neolamprologus Multifasciatus species tank 33 long. This was also started on March 17th with 9 adults. I believe 6 female and 3 males, two being dominant with established territories. There is at least 30 fry in this tank now. 18 that may have been eggs or swimming eyeballs when I brought everything home (the adults came in their own shells) and another dozen that I noticed 8-10 days ago. Surprisingly the fry are not part of the largest males territory. The substrate on this tank started as flat as could be but they have landscaped it to a beautiful cratered landscape. Everything will eventually be moved to a 50 Low Boy to accommodate the growing population. -
So I've lost three fish in the last three weeks, and I have yet to identify the cause, and it's really starting to bother me. A lot. I recently treated the tank with Maracyn and ParaCleanse, though I haven't observed any symptoms other than a sudden loss of appetite, hiding under rocks, and then overnight finding them dead on the bottom of the tank. Parameters all check out fine (amm 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 5-10 kh 14 gh 18 ph 8.0 temp 77). It's a partially filled 29g (has about 22g in in right now I'd guess) with currently 5, likely soon to be 4 Paracyprichromis nigripinnis (neon blue herring cichlid), from Lake Tanganyika. These are captive bred, I got them shipped to me about 2 months ago. I originally had 8, lost one a few days after shipping that probably just didn't ship well, these are known to be sensitive shippers. The other 7 seemed fine until about 2 or 3 weeks ago, when they started dying. I've been feeding a mixture of crushed Xtreme krill flakes, bbs, and microworms 3 or 4 times a day. Some of them still seem quite skinny, though others are starting to round out. The ones that I've found dead usually are on the skinnier side. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to solve this problem? Also, what should I do about the one that seems near death on the bottom of the tank? It's kind of on it's side, breathing slowly, but it's occasionally moving around the tank. It doesn't seem interested in eating unfortunately. I've never had much luck with using a hospital tank, I usually just try treating in whatever tank the sick fish is in, if it is in need of treatment. -
Let's start a Lake Tanganyika thread to share our experiences with different fish species from Lake Tanganyika and be a resource for new Tanganyikan fishkeepers.- 11 replies
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