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About Me

Found 7 results

  1. Hello, I am looking to set up a 40 breeder for a river looking shrimp and goby tank. I went out and got some wild river rocks to make a rock wall hardscape and am trying to determine what to use for a matching substrate. I wanted to keep the substrate dark and kind or river looking. I have eco-complete in my work tank but am having some difficulty planting the tank with my amano shrimp playing gardener. I found this Caribsea Super Naturals- Blue Ridge that has good color, but it has a max particle size of 10mm which kind of seems big in my head. They do not have this product in my local stores to see directly, but in looking at what they do have it seems like standard gravel is around the 5mm mark. For planting purposes do you think this gravel would be too big for things like crypts and moneywort type plants to thrive? I was also going to try to look at the local gravel quarry to see if they have any coarse sand/ small gravel that would fit the bill, or just going to the river and sifting my own substrate which I am a little timid to do. The current plan is ~100 yellow cherry shrimp, 3 amano shrimp, 3 blue neon goby, 3 cobalt goby, 1 hillstream loach, some snails, and would be willing to take suggestions for the rest of what to put in for the top of the water. I was thinking possibly some CPD's or chili rasbora, otocinclus, or honey gourami. Thank you, Brad Caribsea Super Naturals- Blue Ridge
  2. So yesterday I added fish to my planted 40 breeder after cycling for a few weeks. I got 7 praecox rainbowfish and 1 electric blue acara. They're still settling in of course but I did have a couple questions. While the rainbowfish do go to all levels of the tank (though rarely to the top) they seem to mostly school at mid to bottom level, which is opposite from their normal behavior I've heard. The acara pretty much does the same thing but he/she is very skittish and runs away if I try to feed them. The rainbowfish will eat if they see the food sinking down. I think the tank is so large and they are so skittish that getting them to see that I'm feeding them is an issue. By the time I put the food in they are at the opposite end of the tank missing out. Though again once the food starts sinking the rainbowfish will chow down like crazy. The acara won't though. I've seen it mainly sifting through the substrate and picking up odd pieces here and there off the bottom. Is that anything to be concerned about? Or is it just going to take time to get used to the new setup? Edit: I noticed they sent me 6 males and 1 female rainbowfish. That's a horrible ratio obviously but at the moment it seems like the males are too busy with each other to pay the female much attention. I wish they had sent me a better ratio, that's kind of disappointing.
  3. Hello! It seems I have come down with MTS.. Multiple Tank Syndrome. Hahha I have had one tank for 3 years and may or may not have purchased a few more recently! I have a 40 breeder that I would like to cycle first. I think I would like to do only sponge filters in this tank.. I run a Aquaclear 70 in my other tank but I would love to rid the HOB look in my next tank. What is the best way to cycle a tank when you have other established tanks? Do I put additional sponge filters in my current tank? I do have two bags of bio-rings in my established tank's HOB. Should I place a bag of those in the new tank? Or do I put the HOB with beneficial bacteria into the new tank for a bit? Also, do I put any tank water from my established tank into my new tank? Or is that unnecessary? Sorry for all the questions! I have done a ton of research but I am still unsure of what the best route is to take. I just want to do what is best for the fish!
  4. I recently got a trio of sparkling gouramis and it appears I got two females and a male and I am newer to the hobby and I am interested in breeding these guys for a fun project. What would be the ideal set up for a new 5 gal tank I would start to move the trio to.
  5. so it occurred to me I haven't thought about what I need to do to setup for a 20g quarantine tank, heater? filter? sponge or Hob? etc. and what meds I should have on hand? if there's something I haven't asked please advise
  6. I recently purchased a 10 gallon tank to be used as my quarantine tank. I will soon be setting up my 20 gallon display tank. I am a little confused as to the best way to utilize the quartentine tank. As far as the tank goes I am planing on no substrate, I have a small HOB filter for it, heater and a few fake decorations and some PVC tubes for fish to hide in. I suppose I would need to cycle this quarantine tank before adding in any fish to be quarantined? If so what is the best way to cycle small quarantine tank without live plants? Do I always just have this tank up and running in case I purchase new fish and/or have to get sick fish out of display tank? Also, I don't need to empty out and disinfect tank after quarantining new fish if they did okay? Oh, and does everyone automatically give trio meds to all new fish once placed in quarantine tank? Thanks!
  7. Good morning everyone, I’ve searched for hours about this online but haven’t seen a conclusive answer. I have a 125 gallon aquarium with a metal square tube stand - the tank sits level on the ends however in the middle there is a 1/8th gap between the stand and tank. I have multiple tanks that are supported on the 4 corners however I thought the limitation was 36” long. I know you can add styrofoam but that is more for abolishing small defects to prevent pinpoint pressure spots but wouldn’t provide any structural support. I read on an old forum post that playing cards or small pieces of plastic could be used to fill the gap. Anybody had this and what did you do? The tank is made of 1/4” glass with 2 cross braces and black trim. Thanks for reading and opinions!
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