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Found 6 results

  1. Hi All! The Java fern in my 5g has gotten *really* rough looking and is in desperate need of potassium. I have Seachem Potassium that I used to add to the tank when it was only a snail tank but I'm afraid to continue to add it to the tank with a bunch of shrimplets swimming around now. If it is safe, what should the dosing schedule be to slowly increase the potassium without a major adjustment? Does anyone use the Salifert potassium test kit? Is it worth buying? Is that the only way to know how much I'm increasing the potassium in ppm? Should I even go that far and buy the kit? Thank you so much for your help! 🌱
  2. I think my java fern and anubias might be showing signs of a potassium deficiency. The java fern is turning black in some areas and the anubias has some tiny holes in both old and new growth. I'm not the best photographer but photos attached. It's a 5g tank and I dose one pump of Easy Green once a week. I read that java ferns can suck up nutrients pretty quickly. Should I start adding something like seachem potassium or dose more Easy Green?
  3. I'm my water I've been able to keep java fern alive but never thrive or really get any bigger for that matter. I saw someone saying that adding potassium can really help it along. I have some k2so4 dry fert from when I used to do EI dosing and was just wondering a starting point of how much to use with just easy green. 75 gallon with anubias, crypts and a ton of moss with the java fern
  4. Hey guys, Based on all the pictures/ charts on the inter webs it seems as though my two Java ferns are experiencing potassium deficiency. New leaves look good, then they develop tiny pin holes and eventually look as though the leaf is eroding from the outside in while turning yellowish/ brown. I dose my 20 gal long with the appropriate easy green once weekly and water change about once a month. Nitrates remain a steady 20ppm and all other levels are within normal limits. Is there a product out there that allows me to dose only potassium? Am I stuck dosing easy green more frequently and just keep an eye on my nitrates? Or do I have to water change more often to replenish the minerals present in my hard water? I'm open to suggestions. Thanks!
  5. Hi Everyone, I was listening to a live stream the other day, and Cory mentioned that Easy Green now has potassium. I checked, and yup, so does the bottle I own. My question: Does anyone know when potassium was added (or upped)? I've been adding extra potassium because, in the past, I'd noticed deficiencies in my Java ferns. But now I add it as habit - I don't have a K test kit. I'd sure like to stop adding extra if I don't have too. Thanks so much! 🙂
  6. Thank you in advance for any advice. This is a 10 gallon tank, with a betta and nine neon tetras. There are a number of small ramshorn snails. The substrate is Seachem flourite. It has been set up for 4 months, so more time needed for a good balance. 30% water change weekly. 2 pumps of easy green after the water change. Lights are on 8.5 hours. Currently no signs of algae. Current water parameters Ammonia - 0 ppm (API Liquid Test) Nitrite - 0 ppm (API Liquid Test) Nitrate - 30 ppm (API Liquid Test) PH - 7.8 (API Liquid Test) KH - 60 ppm ( API test strip) GH - 80-100 ppm (API Test Strip) I have a liquid kh/gh test kit on the way. I'm not feeling the test strips. I have three weeks ago added Pothos and let some stow away duckweed do it's thing. I had some staghorn algae which went away about a week later. Recently the Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus started developing pin holes in some of the leaves. From the deficiency charts I'm inclined to think it is a Potassium deficiency. Does that seem correct? I surmise that the pothos and duckweed are sucking up too many nutrients. Right now I am trying to up the easy green to three pumps a week. I started on Saturday, and will keep an eye on over the next few weeks before making another change. Any thoughts on this diagnosis and approach? Would root tabs be more appropriate?
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