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Found 9 results

  1. Can anyone explain what happens to iron after dosing in freshwater aquarium? Both Seachem and Aquarium Coop say that it is utilized rapidly. What exactly does that mean? Seachem says to test within 30 minutes of dosing. I have a hard time believing the majority of water in the aquarium is exposed to plants and roots for the plants to strip iron from water in such a short time. Does some of it precipitate out or otherwise become unavailable to plants? If this is the case, Is it still harmful to fish/inverts if overdosed? Love learning about this stuff. Thanks in advance
  2. Hi guys I have a well that puts out 45 Grams hardness and 4.5-5 ppm iron. My quiestios is how bad is iron for freshwater fish? Thanks
  3. I use well water for my planted aquarium. the water runs through a water softener to remove most of the iron in our water (you can tell in our neighborhood who has lawn sprinklers bypassing the softeners because everything is orange from rust). Even after softening, the water still tastes metallic when you drink it. Is there anything than can be used in a canister filter to bind the iron and remove it? I would rather avoid having to go the RO water route. I listened to an Aquarium Co-op youtube video today and in the video they mentioned that one of the causes of hair algae thrives is high iron environments. I am always fighting hair algae.
  4. Hey all, I saw some trasparent on my sword, so at first I thought it was maybe a iron defency. I added root tabs and added some of the tropica premuim fertilizer. All though nothing seems to be working. So I have been doing some research and on other forums some say its a lighting issue. But swords are fairly low light plants, right? It is very low light, I have some really cheap LEDs that came with a tank a few years back. I'm using them until my Fluval 3.0 Nano comes in the mail. What should I do? is it a iron defency? lighting issue? other issue...? Just an FYI i live in Canada so I cant get the easy iron, etc.
  5. I was wondering....Aquarium Co-Op is all about planted community aquariums. An essential nutrient Iron is something we need to keep an eye on. They even sell Easy Iron to help us maintain Iron but I am surprised to see that they do not offer an Iron test kit....I am sure there is a great reason but I am wondering why? @Cory Is there one he likes but doesnt carry? Looking for reccomendations.
  6. I would like to grow some red plants, specifically Scarlet Temple. From what I understand this requires iron. What is the best way to add iron to the substrate so that it's bio available?
  7. Hi guys I've noticed a lot of people on this forum that either have some kind of chemistry/science background or are just incredibly intelligent. I've come to ask anybody that could fill in the gaps of my research or show me what I'm misunderstanding. To keep it short I am injecting co2 into my 65 gallon tank and I am using dry salts for fertilization. I have been creating solutions for a couple weeks now but have since reverted back to dry dosing since I suspect I am making a mistake in creating my solutions. Among other nutrient deficiencies It seems that I am lacking in iron. This is the part hopefully someone could better explain what I'm doing wrong or missing . I've been dosing 1/4 tsp Plantex csm + B 3 times a week. I've read that EDTA precipitates iron at ph of 6.5 and my tap water degassed is somewhere from 8.2-8.4. I have since stopped creating the solution and made two changes. I dose plantex dry 30 minutes before lights come on and my ph reads somewhere from 6.6-6.4 (the api test kits are kinda hard to read and probably not that accurate) and I supplement with .2ppm 11% DTPA fe. Ive included some pictures with closeup to show what I'm seeing Here are some of my tank parameters: Nitrate: 30-40 ppm most of which comes from my tap water and livestock I do add about 5-10 ppm with KNO3 Potassium: 25-30 ppm from KNO3,K2SO4 and KH2PO4 Phosphate: 4-5 ppm KH2PO4 GH: 7 dGH KB: 6dKH The ph of my tank is around 7.6 before co2 comes out When the light comes on ph stays around 6.6-6.4 the whole day As I said earlier I'm not sure how accurate these readings are since I usually watch my fish response but this is the lowest I can go before stress I'm noticing chlorosis and I see pinholes in older leaves of rotala hra. Because of how much K I'm dosing Im starting to think its because of poor substrate since I ran out of root tabs a month ago. I use eco complete The rotala macrandra is starting to look better, before I started adding DTPA it looked similar to the hra
  8. My water sprite grows fine and then the new growth leaves brown (see image below, with sword and moss ball in background). Sluffing of the leaves then follows. Is this a sign of iron deficiency? A root tab was placed close to the sprite about 3 weeks ago. Does this continued browing call for another root tab?
  9. This is my fresh-from-the-tap test. You can see nitrates are pretty high - somewhere between 20-40 (I can never tell the difference). I also suspect I have high iron. My plants seem to grow red really easily, including guppy grass, under relatively inexpensive lights. Hair algae is by far the most prevalent type and seems to be basically unstoppable. I do not regularly dose with fertilizer at all. I have not, so far, run into fish issues with this. My plants seem to grow pretty effortlessly. But I am mildly concerned and thinking I should maybe invest in actual well testing, and depending on the advice, an RO unit? I was recommended the coliform/e coli bacteria and nitrates test at $50, wondering if there are others I should select. OR, do I skip a step and look at reducing nitrates since wherever they're at, it's probably above what's considered healthy for drinking water? We have a water softener that is not currently in use as well. Looking for just general advice on dealing with this.
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