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Found 23 results

  1. I'm looking to build a DIY undergravel filter for a 30 gallon aquarium. Do these require a specific amount of flow to operate efficiently, or can one be operated with a gentle amount of flow provided by an air stone? Would a small powerhead be a more preferable option instead of an air stone? I'm looking to set this up in a betta tank.
  2. I recently bought a heater with a digital readout, and I rearranged the plants in my tank, and now it says I have low flow. I have a 40-gallon breeder with a large Aquarium Co-op sponge filter on each end. I also have a nano tank circulation pump aimed right at the heater housing. I have tried a more powerful circulation pump in the past, but it seemed like my fish were struggling to adjust to the flow on even the lowest setting. So I guess my question is really, how much flow do you need in a planted tank? Should the leaves be moving slightly all the time?
  3. I have 2 aqua clear 110s on my 75g and im gonna stock the tank with 10 juvenile saulosi. I know i have enough filtration but i think its gonna be way too much flow. Should i just use 1 filter to slow the flow down?
  4. I am moving my discus into a 4’x2’ 120 gallon from their 150 to give me more room in the living room. I want to set the tank up with a sump, mostly to add water volume. I just want to make sure my plan is solid before I start spending money. 75 gallon sump. The 120 isn’t drilled and I don’t know if it’s tempered or not so I’m planning on doing a eshopps HOB over flow. I was planning on the PF-1000 which does 1000 GPH (I’ve read it’s better to have more GPH on the overflow than the return) I will do a spray bar on the return and I want to shoot for 5x water turnover (based on what I’ve read on discus forums) I was thinking of getting the Sicce Syncra, I’m unsure if I should go with the 3.5 (660 GPH) or the 4.0 (951 GPH) It’s going to be pushing water up roughly 5-6 feet and I know the pumps don’t flow as well when they have to push the water up high. If I’m reading their chart correctly the 4.0 will have 660 GPH at 5 feet. I attached a picture of the page with the chart regarding the flow and height I mostly need help with deciding which pump to go with. And if I’m over looking anything or misinterpreting anything, please let me know. Any and all advice is appreciated!
  5. I have a hob I’m using for and axolotl and I tried to reduce the flow and the method I tried didnt work what are some suggestions
  6. I upgraded to a 125 and I want to get some red root floaters and big frogbit. I have chili Rasboras, honey gouramis, red neon eye rainbow fish and other nano fish who don’t care for big flow. Can I have my canister filters trickle so I can run the floaters without damage? I doubt oxygen will be a problem, but figured I’d ask anyways.
  7. I've seen suggestions of putting a spray bar in or placing an intake sponge filter over the outputs on an fx4. What do you guys think of placing a piece of sponge or coarse filter pad inside of the output nozzle to reduce the flow?
  8. I have a 30 gal tank ,gravel filter ,with air returns on each end of tank,,,,,also bio air sponge in center of tank,,,,,,,got a great deal on a 4x Fluval canister,so I went with it (large for tank).My ? is do I have too much water flow with for size of tank? Hope all this makes since.Thankyou Dave
  9. I have a 55 gallon fresh water tank. I changed from a HOB filter to sponge/foam. I have it set up in a corner. But i see that the water on the other side has little to no movement. Should i get an additional sponge filter. Or move it to the middle of the tank
  10. So I recently purchased and installed a Penn Plax Cascade 700 for my 29gal. The flow is a little strong for my liking unfortunately. I have installed the spray bar to spread out the output flow. I also pointed the spray bar slightly upwards as that seemed to help slightly. There is a ball valve on the output from the canister that I thought I could partially close, but I still can't reach my desired flow without closing it more than halfway. I have concerns about the strain on the motor or seals of the unit by doing this. The question: Does anybody have experience or suggestions on whether it is acceptable to partially close the output valve to reduce flow? Any other ideas to reduce the flow?
  11. I've read from many sources that recommend you have a filter gph that is 5x your tank size in gallons. My question is: How can I achieve this and still have a slow flow tank for fish such as bettas? I've found that anytime I follow this 5x rule of gph I end up with a fairly strong current in my tank. Does this rule only apply to HOBs since they notoriously over state their actual gph?
  12. I just replaced my planted tank, and while I was at it I cleaned my sponge that is powered by a power head. I realized that the flow is quite strong. I am worried about the honey gourami and neon tetras not liking it. The flow is a single jet that is maybe as powerful as a medium to large HOB filter. The fish can swim against it fine, but do you think they like it or are stressed by it. There are places in the tank where the flow is almost non-existent. Thanks!
  13. Greetings! I am trying to slow down the flow of both my Aqueon 10 & 20 HOB filter. Both have a prefilter sponge, then a coarse sponge in the left chamber. The right chamber is split in half : aquaclear sponge at the back and bio balls in the front. Then the fall down is stuffed with a fine sponge/floss. I saw the water bottle trick (cut a cylinder off a water bottle and split it horizontally, then place it in the filter to create a half moon and divert the flow) and it seems to work great... until I close the lid. The lid seems to push the plastic a bit too tight and I wonder if that could be dangerous (stop the flow altogether or something?) No lid with a gap with a lid. You can see how tight the plastic is. Is it possible to leave the lid partially opened or can it cause too much water evaporation and the beneficial bacterias could die? If you have any other tips, tricks or advices, I am listening. The tanks also each have a sponge filter.
  14. I have a 30 gal and a 5 gal and I notice both tanks have cold spots in them.. They both have sponge filters but i went to plant a new plant in my 30 gal and noticed the spots directly around the heater are warm.. the thermometer reads 80 but there are spots that are just freezing too! how could I circulate betta tanks without creating to much. I thought of putting a bubbler under the themometer but when i doo I see the poor betta struggling to swim. My 30 gal has a mariland for up to 30 gals. My 5 gal has a preset for 10 gal and still is having cold spots
  15. I recently realized that I am not a fan of floating plants like red root floaters but love the surface leaves of my dwarf aquarium lilly, so much so i just got a tiger lotus bulb also. My question comes from me wanting to switch up my filter and trying to plan for the outflow. How do lilly pads react to flow in an aquarium? I imagine they do best in still water but would there be any detrimental effect if I used an in tank filter like an Oase BioPlus?
  16. my hang on back filter is flowing water fast is it ok for fishes like guppies and tetras . if i reduce the flow, i am worried about less water being filtered. my hang on back filter runs 24 hours a day. any suggestions or recommendations
  17. I'm using a fluval hang on back filter in my 20 gallon hex tank. This tank is approximately 20 inches deep from the top of the water to the substrate. With the flow set to max I am getting to much water movement at the top and barley any toward the bottom. I have put and extended tube for the water intake to get near the bottom. Should I run a small sponge filter with the hang on back filter that I have? Or should I switch to just a large sponge filter? Or any other suggestions?
  18. Alright, I give. I've looked around and can't find what I seek. A couple of years ago, Cory was doing a walkthrough tour of someone's fishroom. There was a breeding aquarium highlighted where the adults were on the right side, split the tank with a solid divider, false bottom for eggs to fall through, and the left side had a sponge filter that pulled the water from the right and lifted it to the top to overflow back to the right side. The flow of water pulled the eggs to the right where they could hatch and not be eaten. I'm interested in building this with a 20 Tall I have, but needed one more look at the tank before starting my own construction. Does anyone remember this?
  19. Equipment - Fluval E 100, Finnex Planted+ 24/7, undergravel filter with 3 exhaust towers (meijer brand), Aqua culture air pump dual output 20-60 gallon rating, Cascade 300 internal filter at 70gph, sponge filter unattached to air line Plants - Hornwort floating, Anubis attached to driftwood and Java fern attached to plastic lattice Decorations - Gravel mostly black non enhanced, 4 pieces of Malaysian driftwood accounting for + or - 30% water space upright for pseudo cave look Fish Stocking - 8 gold barbs (recently brought in from pond), 3 albino cori. cats, 2 clown pleco, 1 powder blue gourami, 12 ghost shrimps and random mystery snails from the plants Chems - flourish comprehensive and flourish iron, essentials bio boost, and Tetra Aquasafe Recently I closed my pond for the winter and brought my gold barbs inside before they succumb to the cold like my poor cori. cats and bristlenose plecos. My plants were in the pond all summer and did well with some co2 boosters from flourish with the exception of my java fern. The java fern is a ball of roots with small amounts of leaves are green but look beat up but no new baby spawns on it. I checked my ph (8+, Ohio city water) and water quality on 10/10/2020 all is good as I am finishing my bacteria cycle on new water. The tank light is on the automated 24/7 cycle and it does its thing. The fish are happy and I feed them spectrum flakes, wafers and pellets once weekly. I have dosed half a cap of flourish comprehensive once each week and half cap of flourish iron once; along with a cap each week of essentials bio boost. questions or problems My cascade 300 seems to only have enough water movement to keep the Fluval E 100 from low flow flashing if its exhaust tube is pointed directly at the heater. So what should I do without turning my low flow tank into a fast moving stream? options im looking at are the Sicce Shark ADV 400 (106 gph) or 600 (158gph) internal canister, Fluval U3 (155 gph) series or the Fluval cp1 (265 gph) Should I use co2 or liquid Flourish Excel or go without and wait? Last but not least I haven't figured out how to load a pic from google to the url and I don't have social media to link an image from else where to help further help. Thanks in advance for taking your time to read this and offer up any suggestions. Please note nothing is set in stone and I am very flexible with my tank ideas or equipment.
  20. I'm trying to come up with a method to map the water currents in my aquarium. I think it'd be cool to both come up with a method and to see the results. I only have an in-tank filter and air stone- no supplemental circulation pumps. My first experiment is going to involve putting some sort of flag on the end of a stick and methodically moving it around the aquarium. Anyone else have ideas?
  21. Have a nicely planted 29gallon with 10 Harlequin Rasboras, 8 RCS, and 3 ottos(had 6, but 3 have passed away over last 6 months for unknown reasons). Anyways, just installed a 500gph circulation pump and WOW! It's like my tank has taken on a whole new life. The rasboras love swimming and chasing debris in the current. The shrimp and ottos are more active. The tank is generally cleaner. All the "bio-slime" from my driftwood blew off into my intake sponge. If you haven't used a circulation pump before, I highly suggest looking into it. I'll try to figure out how to put a picture on here.
  22. Absolutely love fluval flexes, but their pumps are kind of powerful for such a small tank. My betta and neons get blown away all around and struggle to remain calm, plus the food gets all scattered and sometimes end up outside the fish's range of vision. This is a quick DIY, cheap flow reducing method I managed to come up with. You can do it too with things you, being a fish keeper, most likely have lying around. Just 2 pieces of sponge and some zip ties. You just have bend around the sponge peices around the nozzles and zip tie them in place, then cut excess tie. Can even "control" the flow by slightly sliding around the pieces of sponge! Hope you find this useful.
  23. You guys, I'm so silly (not willing to say I'm an idiot quite yet lol) I was previously freaking out because my bamboo shrimp were not filtering and I couldn't figure out why. I looked at everything I had recently changes and just couldn't find the problem. I started overfeeding in an effort to entice them to filter, but it wasn't working. I asked for help online in various forums and of course folks said, "well, do you have good flow going in there?" And I immediately wrote it off because "Duh! I didn't change anything with the filter orr flow, the can't be it!" Whelp I was doing some tank maintenance today and I looked at my HOB and thought... gee, that seems a lot slower than it should be. I messed with it a bit and I would say it had been at like 10% of maximum (which is what I usually use.) What a silly oversight! I had even been thinking, "Man, my hornwort is really accumulating a lot of dirt and mulm, how irritating." Duh, because the filter was running slow for some reason! Just goes to show you that the simplest things can be the biggest issue. The simple things you ASSUME are fine. Hopefully the shrimp will be happily filtering soon. I love when the answer to a problem makes so much senss. Anyone else have a silly oversight to share?
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