Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'deficiency'.
Found 10 results
-
Hello all, Looking to get some guidance or direction on how to improve my anubias. At first i thought the brown on the edge was a phosphate deficiency but I tested the water and phosphates were high (~5-10ppm) and my tap water is (2ppm). Then i thought brown diatom algae but it doesn't rub off and the new growth doesn't have it. In the images the rhizome is placed on top of the gravel and there is a shell placed on the edge to weigh it down until the roots can keep it. Tank information: - 10 gallon community (4 months cycles) - Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate = 0 ppm - Fertilizer is easy green once a week, lights on 10-12 hours dialing back to 8-10
-
I've got some plants in my tank which are showing signs of Ca deficiency, namely my AR, Golden Nesaea, and even my Compacta Sword. New growth is a little gnarled, and smaller leaves on the stem plants, and the sword leaves aren't a smooth texture, they're a bit wavy. I tested the water, and my GH was 10-11 degrees, which seems a little high to me but I do have some rock in the tank that might be contributing to that. Tap water is a bit softer at around 6. My nitrates are a bit on the high side so I know I need to change the water out. I've also got a pretty big infestation of hair algae that I'm trying to deal with.My tank is a 40b with two Planted+ 24/7 lights that used to be on MAX at 5 hours per day, but just a day ago I dropped it to about 70% with no blue light. I use the PPS Pro method on Auto-Dose, currently at 6mL per day. I'm running CO2, currently trying to dial that in but the drop checker is green.So what do you guys think I'm dealing with? Any input is welcome!
-
So around 2 weeks ago I planted some wisteria into my dirted tank. And before anyone tells me it’s transitioning into submerged growth, I’m pretty sure the few months it’s had at the LFS would tell otherwise. Anyways looking at the standard deficiency charts I can’t really pinpoint what it is. The main pictures are from my wisteria that also happens to be killing all its roots and stem under the substrate off, so that could tell something. But I’ve noticed a yellow brown tint on all my wisteria. What deficiency, or deficiencies is it? Also is some of my Ludwigia shaped a little weird. One stem has the leaves kinda curled. Oh and positive it’s not nitrogen (from the dirt and all).
-
Thinking nitrogen but ,if it's just melt or another deficiency please haaaalp! Have root tabs. Have been dpsing easy green twice a week 5 pumps for 55 gallon. Have also used easy iron once a week. Ammonia is good. Nitrites are 0 ppm . nitrates are 10 ppm. The vallisneria and one of my newer swords are starting to show a little growth. But radican swords and anubias are yellowing/ whitening and anubias is curling. Thanks
-
Ok, seems my tank has a problem clearly with the title of this post. So my question is, is there any way to fix this without use of extra stuff? I really do not want to invest in a co2 kit for my little 10 gallon tank so thought I'd ask here. My plants have developed a powdery white substance on their leaves and that's the only issue I can find that signals this symptom. I'm still new to plant keeping but would like to have them thrive of course. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
-
Hello I'd like to think I am aware of most of my own deficiencies 🙂 but I struggle to still understand my water deficiencies causing this to my plants: My aquarium is a 100L, with soil, my water parameters No2, 3, PH, KH, GH are all 'normal' - however my plants are turning unhappy and I have blackbeard algae on most of them and on part of the wood . Pictures: My Crypto is turning red/brown, my swords seem to be melting and as said I have bearded algae. I have been putting in Flourish excel since a few days to hopefully battle the beard algae but what else can I do. Is this because of a lack of fertilizer, or will putting in fertilizer only make things worse? Thank you all Ruud
-
Having issues with my Amazon Swords and I'm not sure with it missing, take a look.
-
Thank you in advance for any advice. This is a 10 gallon tank, with a betta and nine neon tetras. There are a number of small ramshorn snails. The substrate is Seachem flourite. It has been set up for 4 months, so more time needed for a good balance. 30% water change weekly. 2 pumps of easy green after the water change. Lights are on 8.5 hours. Currently no signs of algae. Current water parameters Ammonia - 0 ppm (API Liquid Test) Nitrite - 0 ppm (API Liquid Test) Nitrate - 30 ppm (API Liquid Test) PH - 7.8 (API Liquid Test) KH - 60 ppm ( API test strip) GH - 80-100 ppm (API Test Strip) I have a liquid kh/gh test kit on the way. I'm not feeling the test strips. I have three weeks ago added Pothos and let some stow away duckweed do it's thing. I had some staghorn algae which went away about a week later. Recently the Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus started developing pin holes in some of the leaves. From the deficiency charts I'm inclined to think it is a Potassium deficiency. Does that seem correct? I surmise that the pothos and duckweed are sucking up too many nutrients. Right now I am trying to up the easy green to three pumps a week. I started on Saturday, and will keep an eye on over the next few weeks before making another change. Any thoughts on this diagnosis and approach? Would root tabs be more appropriate?
-
Thanks in advance for any help! Apologies for the length but hopefully this provides enough background. What kind of deficiency is this? Photos are of Brazilian pennywort and Phoenix moss in a 10 gallon tank with pothos, water sprite, green myrio, marimo, Java moss, Japanese dwarf pennywort, water spangles. I’ve tried rubbing off the brown stuff on the Brazilian Pennywort leaves but nothing comes off. I have very light bioload in my tank (just three Amano, 10 blue velvet, 1 nerite). This tank has been running for a little over a month and the nitrates have been around 5 ppm. I had 0.25 ammonia in the beginning but reached 0 after day 7. I’ve never had any nitrites. I have very soft water so I use NilocG Regen for GH and NilocG Rekharb for KH. I tried using crushed coral but for some reason, it would only affect my KH and some pH, not GH. I also tried Salty Shrimp GH/KH+ but it wouldn’t affect my KH and the amount of dGH it would raise would vary. I’ve found the liquid additives with the pump heads to be much more accurate and easier to dose. My GH is around 9 and my KH is around 5. I was planning on giving the Phoenix moss a haircut so that it can start fresh. The new growth on the Brazilian Pennywort looks nice and green. I was planning on cutting off and planting the tops but if it’s a nutrient deficiency, I want to get that in control. I’ve been using two squirts of NilocG (the shrimp safe formula) three times a week. My light is on for 10 hours a day on a timer. Should I increase the dosage...? I read that the shrimp safe version is meant so that the nitrates don’t build up as much as the regular formula so you don’t have to do any many water changes so it doesn’t stress the shrimp out as much. I was wondering if I should add some extra food to the tank but I’m worried that’s just gonna make a dirty mess and might feed algae more than the pennywort and the Phoenix moss. The other plants aren’t having issues so maybe they’re hogging nutrients...?
-
I’ve noticed some pinholes in my java fern that I believe are indicated of a (potassium) deficiency? Currently, I’m doing a 25% water change once a week and dosing 3 mLs of easy green. The tank is a 29 gallon guppy breeding setup. Would this be an indication that I should increase the easy green dosage or should I consider dosing the specific nutrient that is in deficiency?
