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  1. Hi. I read you could use garden soil to introduce biodivesity into the water column. Has anyone tried this? Anyone know how much to add? Would it be better to grab the soil that's a few inches deeper into the earth or top soil is fine?
  2. Hi all - 2 weeks into my plant-only cycle, and am getting a nice primordial ooze going with brown algae/diatoms and driftwood biofilm. I'm not sure if that's some sort of hair algae or just a mix if diatoms and biofilm. Tanks are 10 and 20 gallons. No ammonia, around 20 nitrates and around 1ppm nitrite, 7.5-7.7ph. Fairly hard water, medium buffer. I'm wondering if it's time to chuck some snails in. Would love an Amono but am guessing they wouldn't do so well yet. Any tips/advise? Not sure if I should leave it be or not.
  3. Hello! I still very new but I’ve kept two standard 10 gallon tanks for 6 months and I am moving in a new 20h! I’m super excited. My initial questions are 1. Should I dose my new tank if I am using pre-used substrate and then cycle or use my old substrate and fresh plant cuts from another tank and then cycle? 2. Can an Aqueon 10 gallon filter handle a 20 gallon tank? I prefer a heavily planted tank in general, can my tank mates/plants handle a smaller filter? This is the tank with the said transferring plant cuts and the new 20. Lastly, should I take water from my 10 to my new 20? I plan on moving my loaches over because they are getting big.
  4. I still have my betta in a hospital tank treating his fin rot (day 5 of his salt treatments and he is improving!) The problem with that hospital tank is that the sponge filter I have in it wasn't seeded it was brand new, so I am pulling water for an established tank everyday for his 25% water changes. I bought and set up a Fluval Flex 9 on Saturday intending on putting him in there asap, and took ceramic balls and a piece of filter from my established tank and placed it in the Flex filter. My tap water ammonia is apparently really high (1.0-2.0) and Prime didn't help at all. The water parameters in the new tank have not moved since Saturday ( I used tap water to fill it) so the ammonia has stayed high (1.0-ish), the Nitrites and Nitrates are still at 0. I don't know if this just takes time, or if there is something I can/should do to help speed this up so I can get him into the tank asap. There are no fish in there, two plants, but because my tap water was already so high with ammonia, and I have seeded media in there, do I just need to be patient?
  5. Would appreciate some advice from experienced keepers. I have a new 40 gal. breeder set up that I used a combination of Fritz 7, Fritz Fishless Fuel (Ammonia) and eventually some active sponge filters from Angelsplus.com to cycle. My goldfish arrived yesterday from King Koi and they appear to be doing great (2 baby Ranchus & 2 baby Orandas). I have some moss, a water sprite and a small crinum calamistratum in the tank as well. The substrate is sand. The water parameters before the fish arrived 24 hours ago: Ph 8.2, Ammonia 0 ppm, Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 10 ppm, 70 degrees f The water parameters this morning: Ph 8.2, Ammonia 0-.25 ppm (can't really tell but it looks like maybe a tinge of greenish), Nitrite 0 ppm, Nitrate 10-12 ppm, 70 degrees f It's hard for me to discern if there's a green twinge, but it seems it could be heading in that direction. Is this to be expected with the increased bio load? Does an increase portend an Ammonia spike? How much Ammonia constitutes a spike? I know it is very important to keep Ammonia & Nitrite at zero, and I have also read a bit this morning about calculating unionized Ammonia versus the raw Ammonia result produced by the test kit. I test the tank daily because I really don't want my fish to suffer any ill effects. Thanks in advance! --Juli
  6. Hi, I’m currently cycling with plants & Fluval stratum. I’m about entering week 2. I just dosed with easy green fertilizer for the first time since I saw some growth on the plants. My KH 0 PH 6.0-6.5 GH 300 ammonia 0 nitrites 5 ppm nitrates 20ppm *just dosed with easy green prior to testing* My question is: does anyone else use Fluval stratum in a betta fish tank with snails? & Has anyone had any luck or experience using Fluval Stratum & Seachem Alkaline Buffer together? What were your results? My Ph seems really low and I don’t have any KH after 24 hours from adding water after my water change. I want to try and raise the ph so I can cycle my tank more efficiently. But from what I was reading I can’t use crushed coral to increase KH & PH because my hardness is already 300 so then I saw Seachem alkaline buffer. I do understand that the FS has buffering but I’m trying to wear it down faster or stabilize the ph. My tap water has nitrates 20ppm, ph 7.5, kh 40, GH 300.
  7. Sun-sun canister I've had been running on my 55g tank for the past 5 years sprung a leak. Luckily the leak had quite literally started as I walked into my fish room as I only had a 4" water spot to cleanup. Around the same time I purchased the large Intake Sponge from the co-op. Turns out that intake sponge is exactly the size of a small and medium co-op when stacked. In a hurry I cut a hole into the top of the sponge and put it around the guts of the sponge filter then hooked it up to a USB air pump. A week later and I've had zero change water parameters. Thank goodness I've been wanting to get rid of that canister for a long while but was always worried about losing the cycle.
  8. Greetings, Hope everyone is having a great day! I'm currently cycling my first 20 gallon long. It's been 3 weeks since I started. I tried to jump start the cycle with some frozen shrimp and some fish flakes. I'm still not getting any nitrites. My ammonia reading is at 0.50 ppm. Is this enough ammonia to jumpstart the cycle? Should I be regularly ghost feeding? How long did it take you to get nitrites when you were cycling? Thank you for your time 😊
  9. Hello, I am in the process of cycling a new 29-gallon aquarium. Here are the specifics: Size: 29 gallon Substrate: Eco-Complete Plants: 1-Java Fern, 1-Bacopa Caroliniana, 1-Cryptocoryne Wendtii, 1- Anubias Golden, 1-Vallisneria, 1-Amazon Sword Filter: Tidal 35 I am a bit confused... I am trying to follow the correct procedure for a fishless cycle. However, when I read about Fritzyme 7 it says that it is an "instant" process. Is that correct? Below are my water test results and just about anything I have done to the water. I would like to do about 50% water change today due to tannins, even though I boiled the Mopani wood, and boiled it and boiled it. My water looks like tea. It improved a lot when I did a 50% change on January 14. Will a water change at this point hurt the cycling process? Overall, am I following the right process to get my tank to cycle? Do I want to keep adding Fritzyme7 and Fishless fuel to keep the water with some ammonia level?? I would appreciate any comments or insights!! Thanks! Time Temp pH Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate Notes 1/11 17:15 56.6 7.4 0 0 0 + water and 1 tsp Fritz Complete 1/11 + 12 oz Fritzyme 7 & 1.5 tsp Fishless Fuel 1/11 19:45 62.9 7.4 4.0 0 5.0 1/12 13:17 78.0 +3 tsp Imagitarium Water Clarifier 1/12 +2.4 oz Fluval Carbon to HOB Tidal 35 (tannins) 1/12 +3 tsp Imagitarium Water Clarifier 1/13 17:40 78.6 7.8 4.0 0.5 10.0 1/13 +3 tsp Imagitarium Water Clarifier 1/14 50% Water Change (tannins) 1/14 +6oz Fritzyme 7 1/14 +1 tsp Fritz Complete 1/14 +1/2 tsp Fritz Fishless Fuel 1/14 +3 tsp Imagitarium Water Clarifier 1/14 18:20 69.4 7.4 4.0 0.0 10.0 1/15 18:00 78.9 7.4 0.0 2.0 40.0 1/15 +live plants 1/15 +root tabs 1/15 +3 pumps Easy Green 1/16 15:30 78.2 7.4 0.0 5.0 40.0 1/16 +6oz Fritzyme 7 1/16 +1 tsp Fishless Fuel
  10. Any information about this will be helpful I've had this 40gal aquatlantis tank running for a month and a half. Originally I had 5 gold barbs in it. They were doing fine. They are currently in my other tank. I'm trying to cycle this tank as I'm hoping to get an axolotl fairly soon. I've asked breeders as to what they would do to cycle the tank. I was told to take the fish out and dose in ammonia and max dose seachem stability everyday. I've been doing this for the past week. Supposedly this process should be the quickest to cycling the tank for an axolotl. But before doing this I was treating it with stability as stated on the bottle. I've never seen this tank show any readings for nitrite or nitrate. Currently I have 2ppm of ammonia and have not seen anything else. I guess I'm asking for help on cycling this tank. I know it can take up to 3+ months. I'm just wondering what would be the best solution? This tank is running a sponge filter. It has 3 lucky bamboos. 2 Java ferns. I've used Fritz Zyme 7 and seachem flourish for the plants. Plants are doing fine as well. I'm not sure what else to mention. Hopefully this helps diagnose the problem a little. Thank you
  11. I'm trying to cycle a new tank. Levels are ... Ammonia- 3-4ppm, Nitrites- 0, Nitrates- .25-.50, Ph- 6.8-7.0 My question is ... is it safe to put plants in now? Or should I wait until fully cycled? (plants- Anubias nana "petite", Cryptocoryne Lucens, Cryptocoryne Tropica, Dwarf Hairgrass, Cryptocoryne Wendtii Green, Mini Bolbitis (Baby Leaf), Christmas Moss) Thank you 😊
  12. Greetings. It was suggested to me to bring my question here. I've been reading and researching for over a year and haven't come up with any solutions. I am the caretaker of two beautiful male Bettas. To preface my question, I got the two Bettas on February 14th of 2020. When I saw them, I knew I HAD to have them, so they were given 5.5 gallon uncycled tanks, and I assumed I would be able to do a fish-in cycle. After all, it's only one little fish, right? A year and two months later, I have had no luck. Don 't worry.....they are healthy and happy. I however am not. Six weeks ago, I started a new 5.5 gallon tank with the intent to do a fishless cycle and give them a temporary home (one at a time) until I could cycle their tanks properly. In the new tank, I have two sponge filters with air stone modification and gravel substrate. It's been kept at a pH of 7.4, a temperature of 79 degrees F, ammonia at 2.0 ppm using Fritz Fishless Fuel and a healthy dose of Fritz Zyme 7. It's my understanding, these should be ideal conditions for a cycle to develop. But, there is still no hint of cycling activity. I am frustrated beyond belief. I use tap water, which has a pH of 8.4, a GH of at least 180, a KH between 40-60. I use API pH Down to bring the pH down to near neutral. I use API Betta Water Conditioner for dechlorination. I've even used chlorine test strips to verify that it is working. It shows there is chorine present, but there is near zero "free" chlorine. I am at a complete loss as to understand what could be preventing a cycle. Oh....I use an API Master Test kit. One thing I need to mention....At the time I started the new tank, my mother had an "air scrubber" installed in our HVAC system. Besides UV, it claims to create "sanitizing ions" and hydro peroxides. You can smell them when you enter the house from outside. The odor is not nearly as strong in the basement where my aquariums are, but I am concerned it might be having an adverse effect. Does anyone else use one of these air scrubbers?
  13. I feel like i ask questions about this alot but want to make sure im doing things correctly. Doing a fishless cycle with a lightly planted tank. A couple val, some dwarf hairgrass which doesnt seem like its doing well and a bit of java moss. My question is my ammonia levels drop from 4 ppm to 0 in 24 hours if not less. My nitrite levels stay around 2-5 ppm but my worry is my nitrate levels are at around 80 currently and have been for 2 days. Should i do a water change or just leave it for my plants to deal with? Will this affect my cycle?
  14. So in another post I'm setting up a 20 gallon fry tank. Been going 3 days now. Have used a good chunk of substrate , plants, and other material from my cycled tank in there. Added some easy green and iron and water conditioner when doing water changes on it the last 3 days. Using a older hob filter for now but getting in a ACO sponge filter in today that I'll put in my cycled tank until I move the mom over . So the parameters. 24 hours after setup Ammonia. 0.75 ppm. Nitrate. 5.0ppm. Nitrite. 1.0ppm. Ph. 7.8 Today..... Ammonia 0.50. Nitrate. 80ppm. Nitrite. 2-5ppm. Ph. 7.4. Def a spike and not sure if this is just the tank running it course or if I've missed something. Any help would be awesome. Thanks yall
  15. anyone know of a freshwater equivalent to miracle mud, or if not a good way to add a large diversity of micro organisms to a new tank?
  16. So I started a 14G cube tank last Monday. Have been keeping tanks for years, so I know the normal cycling process, but I figured I'd try this one using Seachem Stability. I used Prime for the water conditioner, but only for the initial fill and for top off water, I haven't been dosing it to the tank or anything. I started off with the Stability last Monday and added 8 neons, have been following the instructions and doing the daily does of Stability. Long story short, I haven't seen a spike in anything yet. Have tested with API test strips and API liquid test kits, and have gotten 0 Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate every time. I also added an ammonia alert to keep a constant eye on the level. I know the prime "detoxifies" all three, but I should still be able to see them on the tests right? Is the Prime messing with the tests? Should I ditch the Prime and switch to just a declorinator? Thanks
  17. I am currently running a new tank. 1st day filled 40 gallon breeder tank, with my tap water used dechorinator. Added a brand new sponge filter with an air stone. I tested water parameters to see what baseline would be. Ph 8.0, KH 12 degrees, GH 13 Degrees. Rechecked at 48 hours to check parameters after gassing off. ph 8.2, KH 1 degree, GH 13 degree. I added some fish food until I have 2.0 ammonia, added fritz zyme 7 (16 oz) for the 40 gallon tank. I will be keeping Axolotls in this tank in the future. waiting for my hob tidal 55 to get here to help run the tank. i will be modifying the filter to meet the axolotls slower flow needs. I noticed over the week the ammonia hasn't increased or decreased. steady at 2.0. I added some plants java fern and java moss,and hornwort. I have concerns with my kh being so low as i have read that kh acts as your stability to ph as an on going system, I also need to bring my ph down some for the axolotls to be happy, down to at least 7.6. what are the best ways short and long term to help fix my water situation? I dont have a local knowledgable fish store to assist me. I guess I need to lower ph and then raise my kh without increasing my ph. Any and all suggestions are welcomed, then throughly research those ideas before implementing. Thank you all in advanced! Have a beautiful day!
  18. I am currently cycling a brand new 75G tank, its been up for a week now, and I believe its in the Nitrogen spike. I am fishless cycling so fish food is being added along with bacteria (the refrigerated kind) and fertilizer for the plants. I have Very small Amazon swords and two types of Anubis. Taller Anubis that I cant remember the name of and some Nano petits. The Taller Anubis are melting back greatly, while cycling should I cut the dying leaves or leave them in the tank and on the plant for ammonia production? Pictures below are Tank on day plants were added and today one week later.
  19. I'm currently cycling an aquarium that I plan on making into a planted tank. I've been cycling this aquarium for a long time now (over 2 months, due to some issues on my part) and am finally starting to get nitrates, so I'm a little paranoid about adding plants to the mix if they will be consuming the ammonia in the tank that is needed to cycle it. I might just be paranoid, but figured I'd ask. Is it okay to add plants in the aquarium even though it is still cycling? Would this mess with my parameter test results? Thanks!
  20. I’ve been trying to cycle my 5.5g tank for over a month. Seeded sponge, media from 30g tank but no luck. I have one Betta in the tank and use Prime every day. Some days I have less ammonia and it appears I have some nitrates. No nitrites (API text kit). I took my water to Petco today to get a second opinion with their test strips and it says no ammonia. My test tube shows light green and not yellow. I’ve read that low PH can cause slow cycling. My PH is 6 or under. I’m obsessing with this little tank. Every morning testing water. Help.
  21. I am thinking about setting up an indoor mini pond this winter and was going to use a sponge filter in it. I was gonna put the filter in my outdoor pond to give it time to cycle before I put it in my mini pond. About how long will that process take for it to have plenty of bacteria?
  22. Need some expert help here. I am pretty well versed in planted aquariums, cycling, and keeping shrimp, but this one 20L tank is driving me insane. It still has not cycled in 3 months. I have successfully done 3 other fishless cycles in three other tanks that are thriving, so I’ve got good knowledge of the nitrogen cycle and things like that. This one here though 🤬. Everything thing seems to be growing nicely and looks healthy but tank just won’t process the ammonia. PH 7.4 Ammonia 4ppm Nitrite 0 Nitrate 10 GH 179 KH 71.6 Temp 78 Eco complete planted substrate Remineralized RO water Planted Fluval 207 canister filter with Biohome biomedia Only difference in this and my other tanks is this has a canister filter and eco complete substrate. I have tried EVERYTHING. Biological booster, Dr Tim’s One and Only, Fluval Cycle, Tetra Safe Start, and Prime with Stability. Nothing works. Test kits are good. API and FLUVAL. Used old media from cycled tanks too, nothing. Does ANYONE know why this cycle is not progressing?
  23. Hello Everyone, I started trying to cycle my second aquarium, which is a 5.5g with two of the Aquarium Co-Op nano sponge filters (cycling two sponges so I can downsize a sponge filter in my other aquarium), on 04/24/21 but as of right now, over two months later, the parameters are sitting at: Ammonia = 5.0ppm, Nitrites = 0.25ppm, and Nitrates = 0ppm. I was able to detect nitrites starting in mid-May, but the concentration has literally sat unchanged as well as the concentrations for Ammonia and of course Nitrate. The only difference I can think of between cycling this tank and cycling my last one is that the last time I tried cycling an aquarium, I had a shrimp/planted tank substrate so perhaps that gave more porous surfaces for bacteria to grow on. I didn't think that would be necessary though, especially with an extra sponge that could help nitrite colonize, but I'm wondering if it's maybe due to my area's very hard water? Please help if you can! I'm anxious to get my next aquarium going. 😭
  24. Hi all I am relatively new to the aquarium hobby. Currently I have a 75 gallon tank with an aquatic turtle in it that I have managed to do great with, but turtles are heartier than fish and I didn't need to worry about cycling the water too much in the beginning My question today deals with a new tank that I just started 9 days ago. It is a 40g breeder and there is no fish in it yet as it is not cycled. My setup is as follows: -Crushed coral substrate -2x sponge filter with fluval air pump (both had been used in previous tanks, but were not taken directly from one tank to another so IDK if they had any live bacteria when I started using them). -fluval nano wave maker -seachem tidal 55 filter with seachem matrix and fluval peat (to lower the PH because of the crushed coral substrate) -6x aquarium co-op easy planters with some various java fern and amazon sword. -A small piece of driftwood for lowering PH -Fluval Plant light 3.0, 36 inch Products I have used -Seachem flourish tabs under each plant -seachem flourish (realized later this may not be the best for the plants I am using) -fluval plant care iron+ -aquavitro seed bacteria -seachem prime for dichlorination I have been adding pinches of fish food for around 4 or 5 days trying to get some ammonia in the water. I have also taken a big lava rock and a few small live plants and easy planters from my other tank in an effort to speed up the cycling process. My water readings currently are as follows: (taken using API master test kit) Water temp: around 77 PH: Around 7.6 ammonia: Around .25 or .5 PPM Nitrites and Nitrates: basically none yet. I understand the basics of wanting to see a spike in ammonia and then some nitrites and nitrates, but none of my readings have moved in the past 3 or 4 days. I am just wondering if I am doing something wrong or if I just need to be more patient. My eventual goal for this tank is to have various types of guppies in it and I am getting a little impatient waiting for the tank to cycle. A basic picture of the tank is attached.
  25. Hi so I have had my tank setup for 4 days now I used the fritz turbo start and fishless fuel to help boost the cycle and here on day 4 i am seeing a bit of nitrites, my ammonia levels are going down, and i have been seeing a bit of nitrate surprisingly. I have a 5 gallon with a hygger heater my tank fluctuates between 78-80 degrees and I have an aquariumcoop nano sponge filter with eco complete as my substrate I have a nice handful of species of plants; crypts, anubias, bacopa, java fern but recently my ph levels have been rising I started off with 7.4 on the high range of the api water test kit and within 2 days it has gone up to 7.8 I have 0 livestock in my tank but I plan on stocking my tank with a betta and 2 or 3 amano shrimp is there anything i should be concerned about adjusting? thankyou!
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