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About Me

Found 21 results

  1. Hello all, I got this juvenile angel 3 weeks ago from my local fish store. Starting about a week ago, I noticed that his/her poops were coming out long and stringy and staying connected for a long time. The poop is typically pale red-ish or brown-ish in color. I've read mixed diagnoses online ranging from parasite infection to constipation, but would love a second opinion (I am relatively new to the hobby). Other than the weird poop he/her has been acting normal and eating well. I do small feedings twice a day with Hikari micro pellets and Fluval bug bites (algae wafers for the bristlenose), and the occasional frozen bloodworm snack. I don't see any other visible signs of stress (sometimes his/her stripes fade when the light turns on/off or every once in a while throughout the day, but they're never gone for very long), all other fish are active and healthy. Water parameters have been consistent since I got him/her. Water parameters: Temp 79F | PH 7.5 | CL 0 | KH 50ppm | Ammonia 0 | Nitrite 0 | Nitrate 10 | GH 200-300 (I have very hard tap water) Tank: Top Fin 55 gallon | Tank Age 72 days | Filter Fluval 307 Stock: 9 Rummynose Tetra | 1 Scalare Angelfish | 1 Bristlenose Pleco Pictures attached. Unfortunately he/she is not the most photogenic, so I circled the stringy poop in photo 1 to make it easier to see lol. Any advice/tips are welcome, thank you for your help!
  2. I think my 15 gallon planted tank is cycled. My betta, Phinneas, has been hanging out in my 5 gallon quarantine tank for the last 4 weeks while I have been setting up his future home. I am wanting to move him to the larger tank this week but I don’t know how to accomplish that without causing him harm due to very different water parameters despite all of my water coming from the same source. The Fluval Stratum substrate and the plants have significantly altered the parameters of the larger tank. See the chart below for additional information. Additionally, I noticed the water in the 5 gallon tank has been sitting at .5ppm ammonia every time I’ve tested it in the past week despite water changes. After a 50%ish water change last night to try to lower that number, then seeing the same number today I decided to test my tap water. Found the problem! My tap tests at .5ppm ammonia. As a result of these numbers, I’m looking for advice for two questions: 1. How do I safely transfer Phinneas to his new home? 2. How concerned should I be and how do I combat the ammonia that occurs in my tap water? Thanks in advance for any insight!
  3. Hi all! I recently found a 2-3 inch asian leech in my 20g tank. I moved all of my shrimp into a different tank as soon as I saw it. Remaining inhabitants of the tank are 6 (tho I can only find 4) otos, 10 pygmy corys, and 3 honey gourami. They all seem very healthy/happy, with the gouramis breeding. I've done a LOT of googling and it sounds like asian leeches don't hurt fish? Wondering if anyone has experience to validate/invalidate this? If I keep the tank set up, do I need to have tools that I just use on that tank? AND, if I get too repulsed (I have a leech phobia) and tear down the tank, will there be eggs on the tank surface or do they just lay in substrate/roots? I would rather save for a new tank than risk bleach not fully annihilating any potential eggs. I am sooooo appreciative of any advice/help y'all can provide!!
  4. Hello Everyone. I'm very new to the hobby and I'm really stressed and horrified right now. I really need help. I hope someone has experienced this and can share how they dealt with the situation. I have only done the med trio on panda cories, albino cories, black neon tetras, zebra danios and peppered cories (on separate occasions). Only the peppered cories had such drastic effect on these meds. I am baffled because I got them from a hobbyist. Before the trio, I observed them for almost 2 weeks fed them regularly (frozen brine shrimp, shrimp sinking pellets, micro pellets) and made sure the water was clean. I used test strips as well as the API Master Kit constantly and water change accordingly. (0Nitrite 0Ammonia) I noticed the peppered cories were energetic, eating, very responsive, looked way healthier than the fish I got from big pet stores (such as panda, albino cories, black neon tetras) so I was very confident to do the med trio. I have a 20Gal Tank so I put 10ml Ich-X, 2 Packets of both Paracleanse and Maracyn. I have an airstone running, heater, filter (I took out the carbon for the meds), thermometer, live plants, hiding places. I currently have small zebra danios, and pepered corydoras in this tank. Only a few hours after the meds (nitrite .25 & ammonia 0) I noticed all the peppered cories seemed like they all had swim bladder disease. For example, they're like swimming on the moon, like the gravity is working against them, some would float just still on top then after a quick nudge from another cory or me they would swim slowly to the bottom, a few make it okay to the bottom, while the rest just let themselves go back up again. Their eyes are still moving, still breathing it's just not normal. I had the lights off and left them there tried to not stress them more. After 10/12 hours or so, the situation seemed worse, so I did 20/30% water change and put the carbon filter back on. I was so stressed going to bed because I didn't want to wake up to dead cories. More than 24 hours has passed and still no deaths but I did another 20/30% water change. I think the cories are still getting worse I can't really tell at this point. I'm going to do more water change later. Has anybody experienced this? I've only found one forum just like my situation The mixed responses I've been getting: never a good idea to medicate fish when you don't know what's wrong with them, cories are scaleless and don't tolerate meds well, you're better off putting them in a tank for weeks and watching them in the future now that I reflect on my experience I have lost 4 panda cories while on the med trio but I thought that was because they were sick and weak already when I got them *3 albino cories, 2 panda cories, 6 black neon survived my first med trio don't overdo dosing meds, start low and work up stress from uncycled tank and meds at the same time I made sure with both test strips and API Master Kit that nitrites & ammonia was 0 before I decided to do the trio. Although, I don't think my tank was fully cycled - however, my fist batch of fish that I did the med trio on were also on an uncycled tank but none of them floated like how the peppered corydoras reacted to the med trio Are there other ways to quarantine my peppered corydoras now? Aside from fully cycling a quarantine tank, what could I have done different?
  5. We are considering getting some Amano shrimp to help with some algae problems (and just enjoy because we think they're cool). Checking our sources I'm getting mixed messages. Some say they should be kept in an invert only tank because fish will eat them, and some say they can live fine with fish. It looks like most places you order them from they come 1/2" and grow to 3. Should we grow them out larger before adding them to community tanks? Are they social at all or can they live alone in a community tank? Any other Amano info is greatly appreciated.
  6. Ok so I am basically brand new to this hobby and I am really struggling when it comes to getting my plants healthy and controlling my algae. The only plant that I have noticed grow at all is my tiger lotus bulb. Everything else has basically stayed the same or gotten worse since it was introduced to the tank (melting, browning, deficiencies, etc). I struggle with diagnosing nutrient deficiencies because I’m new to this hobby and am not really sure what qualifies as symptoms of nutrient deficiencies vs regular plant behavior. Most of my plants have leaves that are turning yellow or brown, my Amazon sword has leaves that went from brown to yellow to translucent and also some have holes on them, etc. I’ll attach dated photos from when each plant was first introduced to the tank vs now. Plant symptoms Tiger lotus bulb - few minor holes but that’s it Amazon sword - translucent leaves, brown patches on leaves Anubias barteri - haven’t noticed much except little to no growth Anubias nana - haven’t noticed much except little to no growth Java fern - some holes on a few leaves Cryptocoryne lucen - hasn’t grown much, awkard leaf stem shape and occasionally leaves turn yellow Cyrptocoryne wendtii - completely melted, growing some small leaves now Pogostemon stellatus octopus - 50% leaves turning yellow or brown, 50% leaves green Water sprite - leaves are browning Water wisteria - didn’t grow at all, shriveled up and turned brown Java moss - basically all of it turned yellow brown Dwarf Sagittaria - not much change, few leaves have melted In this last month I’ve really struggled with algae as well (mostly hair algae). Every week I’ll do a deep clean of the tank (scrub walls + plants + decor, vacuum substrate, rinse filter) and get almost all of the algae out of my tank then do a 50% water change, but it just grows back a few days after. So I also need advice on balancing my tank. I want to dose more thrive fertilizer since I suspect my plants are missing out on many nutrients, but I also don’t want to encourage algae growth. I don’t know if I should mess with my light schedule, my fertilizer dosages, or both. My nitrates have been consistently high >40 ppm and Ive been dosing the recommended amount of thrive weekly for about 2 months now. My lights were on from 7 am - 3 pm for the first 2 months but last week I changed it to this schedule 8 am - 12 pm : On 12pm - 1 pm : Off 1pm - 3pm : On And I also noticed some water pests 1 or 2 weeks ago (detritus worms, hydra, I think daphnia / copepods, and rhabdocoela) but that’s a topic for another time Details Tank : 20 gallon long Substrate : fluval stratum Fertilizer: thrive c (dose 1x week) Light : Finnex stingray led light Filter : sponge Heater : Fluval E100 (I keep it at 78°) I set up my tank on August 1st 2021 and it’s not fully cycled yet (mistakes were made but the cycle is nearly complete now) When I set up my tank (8/1/2021) I planted the following all in substrate: Anubias barteri Anubias nana Amazon sword Java fern cryptocoryne wendtii cryptocoryne lucen Pogostemon stellatus octopus Tiger lotus bulb A month later (9/1/2021) I attached my anubias barteri and anubias nana to wonder rock and I attached my Java fern to a coconut hut I also added new plants (9/1/2021) : Java moss Water wisteria Water sprite Dwarf Sagittara Any help or advice would be very much appreciated, thank you 🙂
  7. So @TheCzaristaand I (sometime in the future) want to set up a Themyscira/Wonder Woman themed tank sometime in the future. Looking around these guys really caught our eye, but there's so little info out there on them. There's a small snippet on Select Aquatics, and it looks like they only get 1.5 inches, but I dont know a thing about their behavior. I believe it said good for species only tanks which would work great for this tank idea. Just curious if we could keep one or a pair in a 6 gallon cube, and what their behavior patterns are. Anyone with some expertise that can advise a yearling fishkeeper?
  8. Hi all, I have a 10 gallon aquarium with several fish (female betta, killifish, 6 harlequin rasboras, 2 kuhli loaches). I got the first kuhli about a month ago after seeing the aquarium co-op video about how they are bottom feeders and do well with bettas and are relatively easy to care for. It’s pretty thin and tiny. I knew they are nocturnal and liked to hide, and there is a house/castle structure that offers a decent sized dark space for them to hide in that also has ridges along the inside rim they can hide in. I noticed the little one burrows into my gravel, which I didn’t even know they did (my fault for not doing my research but I thought they just needed hiding places). The gravel is not small, but not huge. It’s relatively smooth edged. Anyway, I went and got a second loach yesterday after reading they might do better if there’s more than 1 (and I know aquarium coop mentioned they can be in 10 gallon tanks). It’s thicker than my first one and he can’t seem to burrow into the bigger gravel yet (it’s only been 24 hours and I think the first one didn’t burrow for a couple days). I researched and I am now seeing they do better with fine gravel or sand. Now I feel guilty that I am causing them (especially the new one if he can’t ever get to burrow) unneeded stress or possible injury. this is the gravel: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/imagitarium-snowy-river-aquarium-gravel and this tank has been established for a year now. Like I said the edges are not really jagged, maybe even smoother than the picture in the link provided as it’s been in the tank and vacuumed and moved around for a year. Anyway, sorry for the long post, but should I try to replace the gravel even though I have other fish in there, hope the kuhlis do ok (especially the new one since he can’t seem to burrow yet, and maybe he’s too thick to do so), or try to donate the kuhlis to an experienced store that will take them? 😞 thanks in advance, I also attached a pic of the actual gravel in my tank
  9. Hello! I’m having a bit of a problem with my neon blue dwarf gourami. I have 3 males (LFS had no females) in a fairly heavily planted 36 gallon (most of the plants are still growing in). I was told by the employee at my LFS that the 3 should do well together, but it seems the bigger one is bullying the slightly smaller two. It’s not constant as they have lots of room to swim, but I’m not sure if I should just let it continue. I’ve only seen the bigger one be aggressive, so I’m wondering if it makes sense to return the aggressive one and keep the more passive two. Or will they start fighting amongst themselves once the dominant one is gone? Also, if I decide to keep just one, will it be able to thrive alone? I read that they like to be in groups, which is why I’m a bit confused about what to do.
  10. I broke out my old Finnex Planted+ CC. I am pretty unfamiliar with lighting, although I’ve been doing some research on lighting to try and understand it better. The Finnex CC was barely used, as it was on the last aquarium I had to take down shortly after my brain and spinal surgery years ago. Being a 48” fixture, I strung it through two setups, my crayfish’s (Gandr’s) setup, and over my 20G tall I am starting over. Plant wise, they’re low to medium light plants (I’d say 3 are medium to high): Ludwigia peruensis, Ludwigia arctuata, Cryptocoryne undulatus ‘Red’, Red Tiger Lotus, Bolbitis huedelotii ‘Difformis’, Cryptocoryne petchii, Cryptocoryne balansae, Bucephalandra Kapuas Brownie Ghost, Hydrocotyle tripartita ‘Japan’, and Hygrophila pinnatifida. I’ll have Eco-Complete as a substrate, with root tabs, liquid fertilizers for them, if that’s useful knowledge to you all, if it makes an impact on lighting. I don’t have the specific percentiles decided, because I wanted to see if there were any blatant flaws from this point already. But this is what I was roughly jotting down as a lighting idea, though I’m wondering if it’s adequate, assuming I’ll get the specific percentages in order. Normal would probably represent a higher intensity lighting period, though that will likely need heavy refining. I’m wasn’t necessarily intending for a sort of weird dim siesta time frame, but I get extremely light sensitive at certain points in the day, especially from 3-5pm, any time after 8pm, and in the morning at 9-10am (depending on my symptoms, I can have all day severe light sensitivity, as I already cover most of blinds on the windows with blankets haha, but generally, those are the times I really notice it at). I was curious to see if I would be able to keep the fixture in a certain dimness, but not poorly affecting the plants. Would this work decently, or would it *likely* need adjusting, and if so, what would you all recommend? I do have red some plants, though I’d say they’re not as difficult as most red plants, so I’m sure that will also come into play on any lighting schedule. ALSO, these plants are all new, so if I should start out lower on any hypothetical high intensity lighting periods, feel free to let me know. 🙂
  11. I've recently introduced CO2 and I've been adding a lot (too many?) minerals to the water. My filter seems to be functioning. But my water is full of these white particles. Or maybe the y 're bubbles? Any help is appreciated. Obligatory photo: A brave neocaridinia faces off with Old Turtle Man, the betta.
  12. I have two tanks running with sponge filters. Both have stable parameters with pH around 7.8, Nitrites at 0, and nitrates around 30 ppm (hopefully these go down as my plants settle in). Every time I take a reading, ammonia is under 0.25 ppm, barely detectable, but still there. I've begun to wonder if I might be able to get them all the way to zero, and I have two ideas/questions about it. My first theory is about the sponge filters. The sponge filters I have are extremely fine with teeny tiny pores, and I've heard people say this can decrease their efficiency. I've watched the co-op videos and Cory's objection to fine-grade sponges is that they need to be cleaned more because they clog more easily, but he doesn't comment on whether they're less efficient than coarse sponges, even when properly cleaned (I squeeze mine out in tank water every other week). Does anyone know if switching to coarser sponge filters will help get that last stubborn bit of ammonia down? My second theory is about plants. I've filled each tank with as many plants as I can, do I just need to wait for them to settle into the tank and let them take up that ammonia?
  13. So I made my first impulse fish purchase today 😳 nothing crazy, just 3 mollies. (edit: they're poecilia sphenops mollies for reference) The only problem is that I was thinking of them going well with my endlers, but forgot to check to see if they'd eat adult neocaridina shrimp - turns out, yes they absolutely will. 😕 The mollies are currently quarantined by themselves in a 10 gallon. The plan before was to move my prettiest shrimp into the 10 gallon for breeding, and keep some culls and skittles in my community tank where they currently live so I wouldn't care if some cull babies got eaten. I like having the shrimp as a cleanup crew and seeing how they interact in the community tank, but I don't want any adults to get eaten. Current setup is a 20 gallon long community tank. Heavily planted (like actually, about 70%+ is planted). Over filtered with two sponge filters on different air pumps that are both for 40-50 gallons. Fish: 7 kuhli loaches, 6 endlers, 8 juvenile celestial pearl danios, 1 mystery snail, 1 nerite snail, and ~20 neocaridina shrimp. No one's bothered the shrimp so far and they're comfortable enough to be out and about most of the time. 10 gallon is medium planted, deep substrate, sponge filter, just the 3 mollies in there right now. My father-in-law is giving me a 100 gallon tank soon, but it'll be a hot minute before that's all set up and ready to go. What would you do? I'm thinking of my options as: 1 - Move all the shrimp into the 10 gallon and the mollies into the 20 (after mollies are done in quarantine), potentially put a divider in the tank so I can have part of the tank where I'm selectively breeding and part of the tank for culls/skittles. 2 - Keep the mollies in the 10 gallon, potentially moving them to the 100 gallon when it's ready. Get another 10 gallon or a 5 gallon for shrimp breeding and go with the original plan of culls & skittles in the 20. 3 - Move the mollies to the 20, move my breeding shrimp to the 10, and get another 10 or a 5 for culls & skittles. Shrimp tank will also likely be a grow out tank for fry.
  14. The crayfish is approximately a 4.5” Australian Red Claw crayfish. I got him recently, and he was shipped to me while he was nearing the beginning of molting. This seems to have stressed him out, and he seems to be struggling to molt. He never has eaten since getting him (this month the 21st). the 22nd or 23rd, he started being less active, waving his legs around above his head, and laying somewhat lopsided on the ground. Fast-forward to the 24th til currently, and he’s been falling onto his side and waving his legs and claws around periodically. Occasionally, he gets up to walk around, and does so very clumsily, while some of his legs remain completely outstretched. Tonight, I finally got a better glimpse at him (as he’s now doing the behavior in front of me every now and again), and some of his legs are looking twisted up. I have iodine in the tank that was added a few days ago (maybe two). But I want to know if there’s anything else I can do. Should the molting process be taking this long, and is it normal to not see any progress so far? I’ve heard of people intervening, and I’m curious if that would be on the table if no progress is made by the time the molting should be done. Though I wouldn’t want to risk it, if it seemed far too dangerous or stressful compared to just leaving him be (as getting involved usually makes things worse). Here’s how he’s been looking, if that will aid in any advice. Him when he’s laying on his side (often what he’s been doing: Him when he was walking a little today:
  15. Hi everyone. I am looking for some advice with my 10 gallon tank. Currently, the tank houses my colony of bloody mary shrimp and my breeding colony of guppies (10 guppies total). I remove the fry when I find them and put them into different tanks to grow out in. The 10 gallon is my main tank and is located right next to the desk I spend all day at so I am always looking for ways to make it better. Currently, there are a lot of live plants (anubias, buce, crypts, java fern, and bolbitis) and I noticed that while they're not wilting, they're also not thriving. I know most of the plants are slow growing but in some cases I'm not sure there is really any growth. Some of the plants are also showing signs of distress like discolorations but these are not common in the tank. I generally test my water every 2-3 weeks and every time I do, I find that the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates are always at 0 or close to it. I know that this is a great for the fish but the lack of nitrates in the tank is also probably contributing to my plant issues (there are root tabs near the root feeders so they are getting nutrients that way). I know the common sense solution here is to just add in some easy green and use that to bring the nitrates up but I was also thinking that my lack of ammonia and nitrate build up may mean that I can stock my tank a little more. I decided to test my idea by slowly adding some of the largest fish from my grow out tanks to my 10 gallon. I also increased food roughly proportional to what I added. As I was doing this I was frequently testing the water to monitor for any sudden spikes but my readings stayed very low (possibly because of how slowly I was increasing the fish load). After about 3 weeks I had added 10 fish in and was feeding much more than before and still my ammonia and nitrogen levels were basically undetectable. I removed the guppies that were not part of my original breeding colony but now I am wondering if it would be safe to add in a school of 6 panda corys. Everything I have heard suggests that a 10g should not be able to stock guppies, shrimp, and corys but based on the fish load I had in the tank, I believe I might be able to safely add in a small school. Am I falling into a rookie mistake here or do you think I can try adding in my second species of fish? If I don't add in the corys should I increase the food I'm feeding my breeding colony since I know it is safe? Should I just use fertilizers with my weekly water change and keep everything else constant?
  16. Over a week ago, I mentioned how my betta fish was showing signs of a parasitic infection (I’m pretty certain they are some type of gill fluke) and asked for some thoughts to confirm my approach. It’s been eight days so far of Copper Safe treatment. For the past few days, Samphan was showing much more normal behavior (doing his wiggle dances, being active and exploratory, not flashing or twitching). However today (day eight), he’s pretty lethargic and sticking close to the top. Not much gill movement (so no heavy breathing), no appetite at all (which is a new symptom) and occasional head twitching. I did a 10% water change and dosed Copper Safe only for the water replaced (as it is chelated and remains in the water for up to a month and until its water changed out). There was no behavioral change, good or bad. I’m unable to check the therapeutic level of copper because the copper test kit I ordered that was supposed to arrive the same day as the medication keeps being delayed, and there’s no other way I can get it. So I’ve been very careful to calculate the dosage amount and dose with a syringe to keep it exact as I can. I’m a little worried, given the lack of appetite and lethargy. I do know that lack of appetite can occur with Copper Safe. It could also be that more parasites have hatched and are now bothering him as well, as another thought I’ve had. But I want to confirm with you all if keeping the Copper Safe in the water (and still continuing treatment) is a good idea. What are all of your thoughts?
  17. Hello all, This is my first post and I'm looking forward to being an active member in the community. I'm a new a fishkeeper and am about 2 months into my aquarium. First off, I want to say that I've done about everything wrong that you could have done up to this point. I currently have 7 neon tetras that have been in the tank for about a month and are doing well and one corydora. I overstocked my tank a couple of weeks ago with about 9 guppies that all met their maker quickly. Now, I am trying to make sure my tank is stabilized before I add anymore fish to this aquarium. Here are the stats on my aquarium. Tank Size: 30 Gallons Filter: Marineland Emperor 280 Ammonia: .25 ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Nitrate: In between 0 and 5 ppm (Tested with API Master Test Kit) I unfortunately changed the filter cartridge on my filter after the guppies died. I now realize that was a mistake, because I lost all the beneficial bacteria growing in there. Before this last test, I held off on feeding the fish for 48 hours, hoping that the ammonia would get eaten up. I can't seem to get it down to 0 and am concerned that I'm not really reading any nitrates per my tests. I have done three 50% water changes in the last 36 hours with gravel vaccuming. I lightly fed this morning and am planning on only feeding once a day from now on. I will most likely hold off on feeding tomorrow. Does anyone have any advice on where my tank is at in the cycle right now? I really would like to not have to do another massive water change, but that might be what I need to do in order to get the last bit of ammonia out. Hopefully once I get this tank in good shape, I can have more confidence in the next fish I introduce being a successful experience. Thank you all for your help and Happy Holidays! Cheers!
  18. Hi everyone! I added a cryptocoryne hudoroji recently to my plant holding tank on December 3rd. The other plants I ordered, some other types of cryptocorynes too, are doing really well. I am pretty certain this is my mistake for not cutting the stems or roots back initially. But regardless, within days of adding the plant, it melted back completely. I haven’t had aquarium plants for years because my disability made me have to take down all of my aquariums, and I’m trying to currently have one 20 gallon (to hopefully not push things over the edge, but still allow me to do what I enjoy). So I am pretty rusty. I feel as though I waited it out too long, and now the majority of the roots are very smelly and soggy (definitely rotting). I cut them back to about an inch, and removed any yucky goo off the top of the base of the plant. Is there anything else I should do, and should I continue to be patient or is the plant not going to make a comeback?
  19. Hello! So I have been in the hobby for about a year and the largest tank that I have ever had was a 15 gallon, I always kept trying new fish with that limited space and now feels like a good time to move on to a bigger sized tank but I am so confused! Should i get the next size up? Like a 20-29 gallon, or directly go for a 55-75 gallon . The reason that i am considering such big sizes is because i feel like i can definitely handle the maintenance and cost that goes behind it but I don't want to make the wrong decision. Feel free to leave any suggestions, It would really help me a lot! Thanks in Anticipation!
  20. Hello, I am new to the forum, but a huge aquarium coop fan for a long time. I have been struggling with fish hobby in my own, don’t have anyone to talk to about that and have been mostly relying on youtubers and fish forums for info and advice. I was ready to give up a lot if times but kept fighting. It is the first time when I am trying to get some help, because I am devastated and don’t know what to do. Obviously my fish was getting sick and died once in a while, but things were pretty good for a while. I even decided to get a few rainbows, because I thought I was ready. For a few months everything was fine. Now I lost two of my female rainbows for no reason. They stopped eating and died. My beautiful male lost interest in food, swims frantically and pokes his nose at the glass. I feel like I am losing him too. Most of my tetras stopped eating, lethargic. One died. Other four look really bad, I am positive they will not make it. The only thing I see is some discoloring and white spots (not ich) on the tales. I have never seen fish dying one by one like this! No ammonia, nitrites at the same level. Ph is 6.6 because of the Co2 injection. Used to be at a higher end. But I ran co2 for more than a year.The only Other thing I have noticed is that my heater stopped working and when I removed it I saw a crack on the bottom. Could something have leaked in the water. I did a massive water change. I would really appreciate some advice! I just watch them with tears in my eyes and can’t do anything...
  21. I got some jungle val in May. When it arrived the leaves looked a little sad, mostly pale w/ some browning. With no growth in the 29 after a few weeks I figured maybe pruning some of the sad leaves would stimulate newer, healthy growth, but left many of the leaves on as there were none that looked great and I didn't want to just cut it all off and kill the plant. Here we are nearly mid August with still no new growth. They're under a fluval 3.0 in a 29 gal. I dose easy green per the bottle, put root tabs under them, and until last weekend the tank was heavily stocked w/ guppies. I feel like lighting and nutrients should be sufficient to see at least some new growth, but there's been virtually none for almost 4 months. I was under the impression that these were plants that will grow under most conditions. Any advice is appreciated!
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