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About Me

  1. My wife and I have recently dove head first into this hobby and we love it. I am a bit confused about the water changes on a cycled tank. We have a 29 gallon that has been running about 2 weeks. I tested the levels along the way and when I saw the ammonia make its way into being nitrates at a concentration of 40ppm I did a 50% water change. tested again and they were just under 20ppm maybe around 10ppm. After a few days I did another water change and the levels were around 5-10ppm (I have the API freshwater master test kit). My question is : We got some guppies to put in the tank and of course then came fry. Just before this happened we had a huge nitrite spike of 5ppm. I did the necessary water changes to get that back to normal and everything has been fine since. The real question, is doing to many water changes going to hurt the fish? Even if both types of bacteria are present and doing their job, will removing and replacing to much water hurt the cycle and is it dangerous for the fish, especially the fry?
  2. I'd like to get a pump to help with water changes. I will still use buckets to hold the water, but this will at least speed it up, save my back, and keep my plants in the substrate vs dumping the buckets into the tank. Pythons are nice, but with my tank location (basement) and distance to the sink...not an option. Rim is 4 feet off the floor. So lift needs to be 5-6 feet at least to have decent flow rate. Amazon has some $20-30 ones, but maybe there is a tried and true option you'd recommend.
  3. 1) If my water quality numbers are good and rarely vary much, the water is clear and the fish and inverts appear happy, how often should I do water changes? 2) I dosed the tank Sunday with the meds trio because one of the tetras appeared to have a bacterial infection and I don’t have a qt tank. (I will be getting one shortly). The directions in the Coop article say don’t feed the fish for a week - does that include plants, too? I use Easy Green. 3) If I find I need to add Wonder Shell or calcium in the substrate or HOB, which is best? I thank you in advance for your help. This forum gives me the confidence that I can keep my little critters heathy!
  4. I have a planted, Fluval Spec V. Because the lid is open in the middle (which I like), I'm losing quite a bit of water to evaporation. Should I replace that with distilled water or treated tap water. My plants are floaters (and I thin some out about every three days or so). Do I need to use distilled because only pure water evaporates or treated tap water because the plants are sucking up minerals? Thanks for any help you can give.
  5. I'm having problems with the water staying at the temperature I set it to when refilling tanks. We have just got a new boiler so I'm not sure what the problem is. Iv been looking for a solution for a while now and I found thermostatic mixing valves. The only thing is i cant find a good one that can go to a low enough temperature. Then I saw that Dean uses a Intellifaucet in his fish room, the only thing with that is it costs £800 with £100 shipping to the UK. They do cheaper ones but I would like the digital one. Has anyone else had this problem and how did you fix it?
  6. Hello everyone, I’m thinking about getting the 90in tall and wide Gladiator rack for two 75g tanks. The tanks are 21in tall. Gladiator shelves come with four shelves. However, if I take one shelf out that equates to 30in of space between each shelf. If you subtract the 21in from the 30in that leaves 9in of clearance. Is this truly enough room to operate a siphon or will water changes be a pain? I ask because I would hate to spend all that money to find out the rack won’t work for me.
  7. I just got a 150 gallon of craigs list. I keep mostly 10-30 gallons, so waterchanges dont seem to be that much of an issue as I just use a gravel vac. But thats gonna take real long if I use a gravel vac on a 150. I have seen online of people using their canister filter to back wash or a water pump to pump out the water to do a waterchange, but it doesnt seem that they vaccume their gravel with their weekly waterchange. I would like to use the pump or canister filter idea for my 150. My question is do I HAVE to vacume the substrate or can I just take out 25% or something of the water each week?
  8. My heavily planted livebearer & snail 36g is off to a roaring start! Babies are everywhere (really hope some of them get eaten!) and everyone seems active and happy. I have pretty soft, neutral tap water, so I bought a huge sack of crushed coral at the outset and have been tossing in a small handful with weekly 25% water changes. So now my tank's GH is way higher (about 200ppm) than my tap water (about 80ppm). But the KH only seems to get lower no matter what I do! I just did a water change a couple days ago and I'm already back at about 20-30ppm KH (tap is about 40-50ppm KH), and this is even after adding some pieces of cuttlebone and 1/2 teaspoon baking soda. pH is now about 7.4 so I don't want to add more and risk a huge pH spike. What should I do? Another water change? Just keep chucking in crushed coral and relax? Ironically, my betta tank and my pea puffer tank both seem to have higher, about tap-water levels of KH and I haven't added anything to it. Pea puffer tank even has a big ol piece of mopani wood still leeching tannins. Backwards land out here.
  9. I just put in a 45 gallon tank. I was thinking of exchanging 1 gallon of aquarium water for 1 gallon of new safe water daily. Would this be a good idea?
  10. I’ve heard that it’s very important to do water changes every day when growing out betta fry, is there a reason for this other than keeping nitrates super low? I have a 10 gallon with several betta fry in it, and it is HEAVILY planted (I haven’t done a water change in months and my nitrates are always at 0). I feel like my fry are very small for being around a month old and unsure of the cause.
  11. I just tested the gh & kh in my 5g tank (neocaridina, betta, & snails), as I have been losing shrimp. The API gh/kh test kit showed the kh at 100-200ppm (8 drops), but the gh showed 200-400ppm (15 drops). I know water changes can help, but my tap water is kh 100-200 (6 drops) and gh 100-200 (6 drops). Should I do a 30% water change? Or is my tap water even too off and I should use distilled or something else? Any advice appreciated!
  12. Hello everyone, I was curious on how you guys change water in your larger tanks. I notice that sometimes after a water change, my water gets slightly cloudy for a day or two with what appears to be a bacteria bloom. Currently I drain about a 1/4 or 1/3 of the water, add API stress coat water conditioner to the tank (I dose the amount for the whole tank 125g), then add the water using a python from the sink. Is it normal to get a slight bacterial bloom after a water change? Should I be doing something different? Fish all seem to be fine, ammonia and nitrite are 0 when this happens. Thanks.
  13. I am wondering if there is a fertilizer that can replenish all nutrients for fish, plants and shrimp that I could use so that I can just top off water as long as the nitrate cycle is good? Not trying to be lazy I just want to try and get a tank to be balanced with little water changes as possible. I currently have enough plants that I barely have to change water because of ammonia or nitrate but I keep changing because of a worry of nutrient deficiency. I didn't know if the aqurium co-op ferts could do this? Thanks in advance.
  14. So in my area I know we have very hard water. I’ve been kicking around getting a couple of 10 gallon jugs and going to the water stand and getting purified water for the tank to fill with and to do water changes. Kind of thinking out loud but is that a good idea? It’s pretty cheap and good water at least.
  15. Anyone think The aquarium co op team would be amazing at designing a aquarium water change app? I realize there is a need for such an app since the few that are out there aren’t very intuitive. I find it more of a pain to use those apps than just writing everything down.
  16. I can't keep a betta splendins alive. I've got tanks of other fish with no problems. I want to blame my water chemistry. My water out of the tap has high pH an extremely low kH and but a reasonable gH. I understand that raising gH and kH raises pH. How can you have such a low kH, and relatively reasonable gH I heard that the the water "gasing off" changes things. I'm going to try testing water over several days, but basically I add a little salt and a wondershell/crush coral to buffer to try to keep these three parameters more consistent. They seem to drastically change gH with little relative change to kH. I keep my nitrates low with pothos and floating plants. I do fertilze with easy green. Can the change from dosing fertilizers be too much of a change? I see all these planted betta tanks... So people are successful. I noticed I lose less bettas if I change the water much more frequently... But if the plants take care of the nitrates... require fertilizers even... What does a water change do that the plants can't? I don't top off... When the water level starts to drop, I do a water change. I add liquid tannins...(a low dose at frequent intervals) Which I know is healthy, but it lowers pH. I used to use cattapa leaves, but I just take the tannins out because of the frequent water changes. At some point I tried to not use tannins. I didn't notice a difference in health. Is there something I'm missing about the benefits of a water change other than controlling nitrates? Why does salt help? Shouldn't it only be used for sick fish? I don't want to add a bunch of stuff. The only other thing I can think of is that frequent water changes means a constant presence of Prime. My tanks are cycled and always test negative for ammonia... I've tested for both bound and un-bound ammonia. The bettas don't die in a week. They do well for a while... It seems cumulative... Thanks.
  17. I have a 10 gallon office tank that is home to white clouds, snails and java moss. Only running an air stone, no filter or heater, and it has been set up for over three months. I have done two water changes in that time. The tank is loaded with fry and snail eggs, and I had to cut back the java moss last week. This morning I came in prepared to do a water change but after running all the tests I don't see a need. Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are all zero and the pH is 6.4. I know the API master test kit is good since it is the same one I use on my home tank and it always measures nitrate levels. Any reason for a water change if you don't have any nitrates?
  18. I treated my 29 gal freshwater tank with aquarium salt to get rid of ich. I treated the water for 3 weeks and no longer see any evidence of ich. I have performed one 30% water change, replacing with water that does not have salt. How many more times do i do this before i can add my pleco and nerite snail back in. I removed them to a 5 gal tank prior to adding the salt. i want to be sure the salt level is reduced enough to not harm my pleco and snail.
  19. My house has two sinks and both can’t connect to a python system. I have a python and can’t use it. I also have this BRUTE trash can on wheels with this water pump with a 30 foot hose I use for water changes . Any suggestions on an adapter or ideas or other ideas.
  20. One fast question how long can you quarantine fish without cycled filter and only with air pump and air stone. And would 3 days without water change be ok?
  21. What time do you guys change your water? Immediately after the lights come on? After a couple hours of the lights being on? Towards the end of your light cycle?
  22. So I'm thinking of putting a 55 gallon aquarium in the sunroom of my house. I'm wary of water stains on the old varnished floor. I can pipe water in and out but as hard as I try, I always seem to splash water around my aquariums during weekly maintenance. Can anyone recommend a solution to protect the floors? Something like a drip pan with a raised lip. (A plain plastic office floor protector gets water underneath. Tried that! ) Thanks!!!!
  23. I am a new hobyyist. I setup my first tank two months ago. And added fish 3 weeks ago. First 3 days there were amonia fluctiations. After that, amonia(0ppm) nittrite (0ppm) nitrate(10-20 ppm) stabilized. I've been testing every day and so far so good. I have not done a single water change in two week. Is this wise? Should I still do a 20% water change every week? My tank is well planted.
  24. This may be a dumb question, but does the wattage matter if I'm just getting the heater to heat the bucket of water to do water changes? I'm asking because I've read high wattage heaters get hot quick and am worried it might shatter being in such cold water with a quick change in temp when it heats up. 😅
  25. I noticed posts of folks having trouble with the Python water changer not fitting any faucets in their home. I had the same problem and tried several different attachments. None worked. I finally found a device on Amazon that works like a charm. The DaMohony Kitchen Pipe Connector is a universal water tap Connector. Every faucet we have is different and this fits them all. You don't have to unscrew anything just pop it on. Runs about $11.99 on Amazon.
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