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Showing results for tags 'bacteria'.
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Hi yall, I just got this fancy goldfish and introduced them to a new 20 gal tank. At the store I bought them from they looked fine, but after a day in my tank, they've developed this white film on them. In the tank next to the one I got my fish from, there were a lot of Popeye goldfish covered in white, what I think what could be ich, and dying. I think what my fish has is some bacterial or fungal infection, but I'm not sure exactly what. I cycled my tank for a few days with Prime and Stability, and parameters look good. 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite and no more than 20 ppm nitrate, 150 ppm hardness (I live in an area where the water is very hard), 0 ppm chlorine, 40 ppm akalinity and 6.8 to 7.0 ph, and temperature of 70. The fish was swimming around day 1, but today has been sitting at the bottom of the tank in the corner. Any help, input or advice is greatly appreciated!
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**For the below, we are assuming no established tank to pull bacteria from** I have been looking online, and have seen 2 main schools of thought on cycling a new tank: 1) Cycle from day one with plants in the tank, and low light. 2) Start the cycle with absolutely nothing living in the, and also no light until ammonia and nitrites are zero (usually 1-2 weeks). Then and a couple plants, use low light, and add a few fish once every 1-2 weeks depending on ammonia and nitrite levels. The second option seems to be the safer option and allows the bacteria to grow gradually with the load in the tank. Thoughts?
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I’m a new fish keeper of about 4-5 months (+about 3 months of research) and I have apparently put one of my large sponge filters up against the glass right next to a window I leave open to give my plants morning sun. I just stuck my head between the tank and the window and notice the part of the sponge filter I couldn’t see is completely green and filled with a few large bubbles. My first thought was it being algae and oxygen bubbles but then I had the thought that maybe there is not oxygen getting there and it’s possibly anaerobic bacteria that could be producing ammonia and sulfur gas bubbles right? I’m sure I’m being totally paranoid but if someone can confirm that I will not kill everything in the tank with sulfur if I pull the sponge off the glass. I plan to just leave it there if it’s not an issue because I really don’t mind algae and other little natural parts of my tank as long as it stays manageable.
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I am learning some new lessons up here courtesy of a significant spring snow yesterday May 11th. Spring snow being wet and heavy has resulted in tons in the region remaining out of power now 25 hours on. I have exhausted battery airpumps, uninterupted power supplies, and battery backups. No isses so far with fish. The main issue I expect is the bacteria die off. I dont use canister or hang on back filters currently so that should be limited with all bacteria having the access to the volume of water in the tanks. My plan is: Fritz ACCR to limit ammonia spike Some liquid bacteria starter to offset any loss of bacteria Anyone have other suggestions ? Power is rarely out longer than the air pumps and uninturrupted power supplies can cover, the power stations are normally insurance and not used, so this is really a first here. To be better repared in the futire I have added another large battery power station to the supplies for next time.... but that doesnt help me today since i cant charge it up:)
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Hello. I'm having trouble with a 2 batches of emerald corydora fry I've hatched out. The first batch hatched on the 8th of April and the second batch batched on the 28th of April. The first batch were doing pretty well until I added both batches to a 20 long aquarium. The 1st hatch was in a 10 gallon and the second hatch was in a 2.5 gal both with sponge filters. The 2.5 had high nitrite levels and a high amount of fry so I moved them both over to a 20 long and the 2nd batch of fry are dropping like flys(I've lost over 60 fry since the move) and a few of the smaller fry from my first batch are showing clamped fins. I feed and remove food from the rank 2x per day. 76 degree temp 0 ammonia 0 nitirite and 10 nitrate in tge 20 long. I have 2 small and 1 medium sponge filter in the tank. I have ich x, API erythromycin and jungle fungus clear on hand to treat them but I'm looking for advice. The bodies I remove all have a white film on them and yesterday I found a fry from the 2nd batch with fuzzy white-clearish build up on its tail. Help please!
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We’ve started the theme “microbiology” in school, and after seeing a couple of interesting bacteria on the web, I thought I’d have a look and see if my tanks are bacterial havens. To start with I took my microscope (from a toy store) And used a spoon (my pipette has gone walkies) to put a bit of “Easystart” on the lens. The result: Magnified 200 times, it seems to resemble wet sand. When going closer, I can actually notice little black things moving and pushing the grains of ‘sand’ out of the way. Seeing as I’ve had this culture for a long time, they’re probably dead microorganisms with a few live ones in between. Next up I took some Brine shrimp (4ish days old) and put them under the lens. First thing I saw: Unidentified crud. Then, life! I know that what I’m doing isn’t new, but it’s quite fun and interesting! 😁
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Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with PSB use in aquatics? By that I mean photosynthetic bacteria. Particularly purple non sulfur bacteria like rhodobacter? I have a friend who spent many years in Asia where he fell in love with aquatics (particularly Japanese Medaka) and is now a breeder here in the UK. He swears by using it in all his set ups and the list of things he claims it helps with is borderline too good to be true. However from reading up about it the science does sort of seem to add up. He says it's common practice in much of Asia to use it but it's practically unheard of here in the UK, I know most here are US based so wondered if you guys had any thoughts or experience of it?
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Hi Folks, My little shrimp tank is going well aside from 2 issues that I noticed. (1) Some of the plants in the tank a white fuzz on the leaves... a quick google search indicates it some type of bacterial/fungal infection. But I am not certain. Any thoughts? How to treat? (2) It appears I have detritus worms in the tank. They are unsightly and I would like to get rid of them. Can someone confirm? Are they easy to remove? Thanks Fam.
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Oh my goodness everyone. Please learn from my nearly fatal mistake. I bought new driftwood to scape my 75 gallon and was using my established 29 gallon to get a head start on soaking the wood. Put two wood sections in last night. I only rinsed them lightly before adding them. This morning I noticed the water was very cloudy but didn't put too much thought into it. Wood has weird reaction in water sometimes, but I really never saw this before. Still didn't alarm me. Tonight after a super busy day working and doing a bunch of housework I looked at my 29 gallon and ALL MY FISH WERE FLOATING/GASPING at the top of the tank. 😱😱 I checked my filter and it was NOT RUNNING and their was a bacterial bloom so thick it was coating the "arms" of my Pearl Gourami. 😱🤢 My filter had been gunked up with it completely. (Granted I did really need to clean my prefilter sponge but it was running last night!!) I immediately removed the new wood, prefilter sponge, and filter floss to increase flow. I drained out 10 gallons and replaced it with fresh water. It took about 15 minutes to see the fish begin to recover. But they look normal now. 😐😔 I'm still worried as heck that there's been too much lack of oxygen for a few of them. This was my first experience with such a thing. Please be careful of sudden clarity issues when you add new wood to your tank and make sure you negate issues by being sure your filter is running well😬😬😬
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I just got these plants from the site a couple days ago and it seems like I have a bacteria growth of some sort on my plants I got a Bucephalandra "Green Wavy" and the "Windelov" Java Fern it's mainly on the Java Fern I can see , but I was wanting to know what I can do , I just dropped the plants a couple a days ago I don't want to kill them trying to kill the cotton like substance
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It’s near impossible to tell in his body, but I am noticing red on his tail fin where the is thinner. Is this septicemia? Or is it a trick of the light? Water params were all good when I checked them a few days ago. I will do a check again and update as soon as there is no one in my house delivering drywall. 😬
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Hi all, new member here! I was just wondering, I've read and been told that it is common for otocinclus to die within the first few weeks of arriving home. I know on Aquarium Co Op the reason stated is that once otos are starved beyond a certain point they lose their appetite and then they're as good as dead. However, another reason I've heard online for this is that otocinclus rely on a symbiotic relationship with gut bacteria, and during shipping (slash time at neglectful pet stores) the gut bacteria can die off if they're starved for too long. So apparently even when they come home and they're eating the food you give them, since their gut bacteria died off they can't actually digest the food they're eating, and they die. They're full but at the same time they're unable to absorb any of the nutrition, so they starve and die. I have found lots of people on forums and care guides stating this, but I've tried and tried and haven't found any scientific papers or been able to find who actually discovered this about otos. I was just wondering if any of you know of the source of the knowledge that otocinclus rely on a symbiotic relationship with a bacteria in their gut to digest their food? A lot of you are so much more experienced than I am, am I just looking in the wrong places? At this point I'm starting to question whether someone just made this up to account for mysterious deaths in the first few weeks of bringing otos home, and then it just caught on because people accepted it at face value. -
Random question... How hardy is bacteria? I'm trying to find a way of doing faster water changes. Normally I pump water in from a brute because I don't have a long enough hose and it's really slow. Can I just use my intake for my fx6 to pull water in as I have an extra intake valve? Would water temp and newly dechloronated water have any negative effect going straight through the filter first before into the tank?
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This is my brand new 11.3g AIO cube, set up for a little over two days now. This is the first evidence I've seen of any sort of biofilm or bacteria and I'm curious if someone more knowledgeable than me could tell me more about what I'm looking at. There are a few snails in here for establishing purposes, and I've been feeding them small bits of repashy omnivore. I squeezed a cycled sponge in the tank and the plants were from an established system, so it should be at least seeded.
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I was cleaning my tank today, picked up one of my dragon stones and noticed it was black on the bottom.it’s not slimy. I had to scrub to get it off anyone know what that is? Harmful? Photo is attached. thank you in advance!
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So I would like some advice. I have a rabbit snail in a QT Tank right now. This weekend, I am getting a seeded sponge to start my aquarium. I am leaving Memorial Day weekend from Friday-Monday to go on vacation. What should I do to make sure they bacteria from the sponge has food? Should I leave some algae wafers on the bottom to add a bit ammonia? Would that hurt the snail to leave the food in there for 4 days? Would they bacteria be fine living off of the sponge and the snail poo? I'm overprotective, aren't I? Haha
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We've had these rasbora's for about 6 months. This afternoon we just noticed this on one of them. Is this cotton mouth? sorry for the blurry photos, these guys are difficult to get a fix on. A couple questions: - I read that the bacteria that causes cotton mouth is present in all aquarium. If this is the case what is the point in separating it? - I have Melafix and Imagitarium bacterial infection remedy, I can dose the whole tank with all the fish or the fish separated out into its own tank. Would either of these medication be a good idea to use? Tank setup: 20 gal long, planted, inert substrate, medium light, no CO2 parameters - tested yesterday: 0 ammonia and nitrite, 10 - 30 nitrate (depending on fertilization and water changes), 7 PH, 6dgh and 2dkh. temp: 78f
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I have been using Imagitarium Biological Booster in my tank from the beginning and now my tank has finally cycled. Do I need to keep using it after each water change or is it just wasted money now that my tank is cycled? My tank is not a planted tank. TIA 🐟😃🐠
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I'm gonna seed my new fitler by putting gravel from established tank into panty hose to put in the new filter. I'm just wondering if the panty hose will harm fish. Its a brand new pair of panty hose. thanks for any help
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I was wondering how I can compare filtering capacity across different types of filters. specifically, how does one Ziss bubbler compare to one air powered sponge filter or the same sponge filter powered by a power head. I read in some posts that one Ziss bubbler is equivalent to one large sponge filter. That doesn’t sound accurate to me. If true it would make Ziss bubbler less attractive option since it is larger and more expensive than a regular sponge filter. Based on what I read in aquariumscience.org chapter 7.1 fluidized K1 media has twice the surface area of a 30ppi sponge. I’m not sure if Ziss bubbler is equivalent to fluidized K1. But that ratio seems to make more sense. But I am still not sure how exactly this Ziss bubbler sold at aquarium coop compares to the sponge filters. I would like to feel confident when swapping out filters that I am not inadvertently shorting an aquarium. By the way I did calculate cubic inch of the sponge filters Large 61.8 Medium 36.7 Small 18.4 Nano 8.1
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So I have never used bottled bacteria to jump start a cycle. Was wondering since it seems lots of companies now have some type of bottled bacteria if it would actually be a benefit as in the tank would cycle a lot sooner then normal (4-8 weeks) if not longer. I would like to get a quarantine tank going in the next few days and I might be able to get a hold of the fish I want a few days after that. So basically if I got a bottle of one of these bacteria would the tank be ready to hold fish within a week or 2?
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https://www.hydrospace.store/product-page/pns-probio Hello. I recently read about this product and wondered if anybody has used it. I was specifically looking for things that can lower nitrate levels is my goldfish tank. I understand feeding less and lower stocking and water changes. But I was looking for something else. ————————- from website ———— PNS ProBio™ contains a beneficial, naturally-occurring soil- and water-borne microbe. It is found in freshwater, marine and brackish environments (in the water column, the sediments and even in the guts of animals such as corals). This highly adaptive photosynthetic bacterium balances nutrient cycling in all types of agricultural systems. Though it performs a variety of ecological functions, it is most oustanding in its ability to remediate fouled water (even in oxygen-poor conditions) and digest complex organic compounds (e.g. cellulose and lignin). Additionally, it has the ability to fix nitrogen in critically nutrient-poor environments. Purple non-sulfur bacteria have for long been used successfully to remediate water quality in highly intensive aquaculture operations. They are increasingly being used to amend soils (particularly soils burnt by chemical fertilizers) in horticultural applications. Their probiotic qualities serve to suppress disease in numerous cultured species. In addition to helping to maintain an ecologically stable microhabitat, PNS ProBio™ provides a wholesome live food source for zooplankton as well as soil mesofauna. Additionally, it is known to form direct, beneficial associations with the root systems of both terrestrial and aquatic plants.
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I have an office tank with shrimp and 9 ember tetras. It believe it to be heavily planted for this bioload, Dwarf Sag carpet, random crypts, and a dwarf aquarium lily. I feed it during work days, feeding a little heavier on Fridays since I won't be around during the weekend. When I came in on Monday this week, the tank was a little cloudy-white, which I chalked up to a bacterial bloom, but nothing had really changed in my schedule. All the fish are accounted for, and no shrimp corpses seem to be laying around. I'm not overly concerned, more curious. It's Tuesday now, and it appears to be clear again. Right now I'm assuming I didn't over feed and didn't lose a bunch of shrimp all at once. There is one thing I think might be a factor here. I didn't have the heater on in this tank. This past weekend, the temperature dropped a lot in Southern California for a couple days, so the tank probably dropped from 72F to 64F through the weekend. Would this have any effect on the bacteria? I lean towards no because the temperature swing isn't that large, but I was curious if anyone else experienced something like this or had any insight.
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If I add a commercial product of live bacteria (like Fritz zyme 7) into a tank to "jump start" the ammonia cycling process in a freshwater, lightly planted 60 gallon tank but am not able to add fish for a week or more, should I be adding something into the tank, like fish food (or something else) to keep the bacteria alive until I add fish? How often should I be adding the substance into the tank until the fish get added? Thanks for your thoughts in advance!
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I have some fairly new coryadoras exhibiting what appears to be white buildup around fins. The LFS had them in tank w tetras, and I think they were fin nipping. I first quarantined w med trio for a week before adding to community tank. Unfortunately, I don't use a glass QT tank so didn't notice the problem until I dropped them into community tank. So after a couple weeks it hasn't gone away, and I have moved them back to a glass QT tank. My questions are: Am I correct in my diagnosis? If I am right, should I use Maracyn or aquarium salt? (Have never used salt, but I own it for hatching bbs) Parameters: 8ph,0 ammonia and nitrites, 10ppm nitrates, high gh and kh.
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