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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Reminds me so much of my dude! Seeing him play is something special. He plays 9+ string instruments. Jean Baudin.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I'm "sort of" dealing with this in my tank too. I used a med very harsh on plants and there's no more kelp at all. I am hoping they come back, but it'll be interesting to see what does and how fast. The ones in the back there, bronze-ish looking leaves, those are the crispus right? Would you consider just pulling the leaves and letting the bulb do it's thing or? One thing I've been told is to basically never pull the bulb unless you see it rotting because they can go dormant whenever temps make them feel like it.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Interesting! Mine didn't "glug" like that. It would bubble as if normal, but it just did not move water. Think.... simmering pot of water on the stove. Lots of action, but the water didn't move at all.
  4. nabokovfan87
    exactly what I would do! 😍😍😍 I hate the little eggs, but nerites are so fun.
  5. nabokovfan87
    There looks to be some fungus and some other stuff going on. It's very unlikely the corydoras survives. I would highly recommend adding an airstone (whatever you have, add another), verifying temp is 72-76 degrees, and then adding aquarium salt. 1 tbsp per 5g is sufficient for this issue. You can also do 1 tbsp per 3 gallons if you want to have a little bit stronger dose. This helps with gill function and to counter the fungus issues. All excellent details we need. Please let us know.
  6. nabokovfan87
  7. nabokovfan87
    Metroplex on the way. I am still seeing "slime" on the body and it reminds me of epi or velvet. Not sure how else to describe it. The severe, quick moving fin rot is absolutely concerning. Water changes today, more water changes tomorrow. More meds tomorrow. @Odd Duckis it safe to do a second dose of prazi with metro or should I just stick with doing only the metro+salt and then go back to prazi if it makes sense to do so. (One dose done 7-10 days ago)
  8. nabokovfan87
    https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/FA181
  9. nabokovfan87
    My fellow hobbyist friend randomly asked if I had heard of a disease affecting tetras where a large cyst appears on the mouth. I mentioned the issue you were having but that I wasn’t sure it was tetras, in your case. She didn’t remember the name of the illness but said it’s viral and that there isn’t a treatment for it. Mentioned it was affecting the fish farms as well? I wish we had more information.. Salt + polyguard worked for me. Nitrofuri.... Was what I saw recommended if kanaplex hadn't worked (bacterial cysts) Colu, I believe, had mentioned the name of the actual virus. (Edit 2: Lymphocystis )
  10. nabokovfan87
    The way mine was acting, LITERALLY couldn't clean the sponge any more.... But I would argue there are two main issues. I don't know what the "new" design is for the sponges, but I have the older design with the kit added on. That being said, it just sits on the top piece. "The hat" and it's slightly easy to have that thing not really attached fully because the retention bump is only on the inside of "the hat" and that keeps it held into the inner column of the sponge filter itself. Once it lifts slightly, it's pulling water from the tank and not from the sponge itself, that leads to bypass, basically. The other issue was that once it lifted it I could see water spewing out of the chimney pipes and across the tank. As soon as I press that piece into "the hat" where the air collar should be, I get a dribble. I've ran it with just tube sections installed to increase the "uplift" of the filter with the air collar and it works well, but I've since removed the easy flow from my tanks just due to not really having the time to fix the issues week to week with the very fine sponge im running in the shrimp tank. Other tanks, ACO sponge, I would try it again. My condor for your lost fish. It's never easy and severe, quickly progressing issues like that do give you a shock to the system.
  11. nabokovfan87
    I absolutely can relate to this and I'm sorry for your issues you've experienced. I'm going through what I can only describe as pure chaos in my tanks and hoping to get things moving to the right direction. It's unfortunate to have to stop and break down a tank completely, but there is always that endless options for redoing things once it is broken down. Try something to clean or sanitize the tank (vinegar, bleach, etc) and maybe that gives you a canvas back. I'm sorry for what you're going through, wishing you the best.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Those + green Laser corydoras. 😍
  13. nabokovfan87
    My condolences @Chick-In-Of-TheSea.
  14. nabokovfan87
    I have some packets, haven't used it yet as they are expired. I assume that's not the end of the world. I was seriously worried about fin rot and the rapid deterioration, so I started down that route with kanaplex, salt, polyguard. (The issue I was dealing with the white clouds had recommended nitrofur-something as the med to try if the first one didn't work out. I saw pictures with it occuring in danio and tetra fish but absolutely nothing was available as far as a general idea of what was going on. Bacterial cysts on the mouth on the WCMM, slime coat issues and fin+body rot on the corydoras, I was leaning hard into bacterial, ich-x, salt as a means to stop the rot and then proceed to any secondary issues like the paracleanse. So no, I haven't used that yet. In terms of visibility, usefulness with protozoan issues or.... External "some form of a parasite" issue... What is the difference in use between a high dose of salt, ich-x, malachite green, paracleanse, or prazi? What is the use for one vs the other? Essentially, I'm guessing one is good for protozoans, one is good as option B is that doesn't work (ich-x vs malachite green). One is good for flukes and things like that, and then the other is a gentler form of that (prazi vs. para cleanse)
  15. nabokovfan87
    Cleaned the tank, on schedule..... Woot! I checked both filters because of the easy flow not pushing water quite right. I had it unplugged and it was blowing so much air it felt like a hairdryer or a small fan. 😂 Anyways, sponge was fine.... 30-40 shrimp somehow keep going inside of the tube and having ba party. I don't know how they get in there, but they love that high oxygen environment. I may end up having to pull this out of the tank soon, just couldn't do it today.
  16. nabokovfan87
    This is definitely not recommended, I would say not acceptable. correct. This is acceptable The main thing is to have a drip loop so that water cannot drain directly to the outlet itself. I don't believe so.
  17. nabokovfan87
    There's an error code guide in the manual, but basically it's an electronics issue. Please make sure you email the co-op support @Tjcarmo
  18. nabokovfan87
    Hm. Definitely an interesting issue. I would say no, the BGA wouldn't cause a tinge to the color of the water. Greenwater might?
  19. nabokovfan87
    I believe the issue is not the color, but the potential for damaging the barbels (whiskers) on the fish. Smooth substrate would be better, but opinions vary on this. From the Coop: "In the wild, corydoras can be found on sharp substrate, so if their barbels start to erode, it may be caused by other factors like poor water quality." Microabrashions on the barbels have led to bacterial issues and erosion of the barbels. It's a video from youtuber fishtory. The other quote you mentioned is from Cory and it's a video when collecting. There's a lot of missing context and yes, it's a "headline" so to speak, but there is going to be everyone with their own opinions and experiences on the subject. I would most often prefer my fish to have this behavior. In terms of sand color, there shouldn't be a major issue with light or dark substrate. You will have some color variations in terms of how the fish display, but there isn't going to be anything detrimental to the fish themselves. On black substrate it might wash out some of the patterning and they have a darker tone. They don't have the same type of body display like a panda or aenus species where they can get extremely dark, so I would think (and I have kept false julii) that the black substrate just makes the black pattern very vibrant against the silver. Hope that helps.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Pecktec did a video recently where he discussed his no filter tank. At minimum I would have an air stone, especially with shrimp. That being said, it's a great setup apart from the aeration/oxygenation aspects.
  21. nabokovfan87
    flow in = flow out, so I would verify tubing isn't kinked, valves slightly shut, or anything like that. Absolutely contact fluval and verify things with them. If there is anything wrong with the impeller / pump you'll notice it on the shaft itself and on the impeller magnet. It may have just lost charge, need lubrication (100% silicone grease), or something is allowing it to float out of alignment.
  22. nabokovfan87
    I would opt for a few plants and something like amano shrimp and otocinclus. Once you are happy with that and things are settled in and growing, then go for some very small nano fish (not easy, because they require small foods!). You want to get that tank to be developed and planted before you add a big fish load. Agreed. A 20Long is a really nice tank! It is just a bit bigger / easier to work in.
  23. nabokovfan87
    I would think something like sepsis is setting in. Internal organ failures. Waiting for the others to chime in, but yeah.... I cannot foresee this fish getting past this one. Typical as well with that sort of stomach discomfort. Even in the pups, they don't feel well at all, but they might take a nibble just to test how they do with it. Spitting the food out and that sort of thing or rejecting food outright, moreso, is the one sign where I would lean towards high stress/discomfort on the fishes behalf.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I would think it's normal behavior based on what I have seen in my own tanks. Any flat surface, they tend to do the "no it's mine" battle and it can look pretty nasty at times. It's breeding behavior, but it's also just social hierarchy as well. Having more flat spots, they will figure it out. The less dominant ones in my tank went on the back glass, near the high flow spots around filtration.
  25. nabokovfan87
    If you have a sump, absolutely. I would just toss some moss in there.
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