nabokovfan87

The main thing is to understand that some fish absolutely cannot tolerate some water parameterms, but know that there are the vast majority of fish that will adapt over time. As far as how to control it, you can push for botanicals i the bottom of the tank (indian almond leaves, alder cones, etc.) for PH down to 7 and use RODI for your water changes and top offs. Check your water after 24 hours. I have very hard water (new test strips ordered tomorrow if you wish to compare) and I've had pretty much no issues with anything I've kept and the hardness. Plants, wood, a lot of the species will care more about how the tank is setup, scaped, but I can even think of something like discus where cory said he has had them on harder water. Let me see if I can dig it up. https://youtu.be/KiGE0WfRLRQ?t=229

Corydoras are my favorite to breed. and.... Barbs and loaches are my favorite (in addition to corys) to keep. and.... I've never kept them, but Gobies are super interesting to me. Out of your tanks you have, what is the fish you've had the longest? What is the one that if you were down to one tank you'd keep?

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh Your two best options are equilibrium and/or crushed coral depending on what you specifically need to add to the water.

Use test strips or a water test kit from API and you are looking to test KH and GH. If you have a lot of questions on shrimp flip aquatics is a great video resource on YouTube. Your best bet is likely going to be to add crush to your tank because this is a long term issue (wondershell works but will be more expensive) You can also find a lot of articles in the aquarium coop blog as well for dealing with soft water.

I present my top few I wish I had tanks for: Emerald Cory (2-3" size): Albino Cory (2.3" size): Peppered cory (2.3" size): False Julii cory (2" size) I have had before, very underrated and their pattern will shine when they get bigger. Last one I would say is one of the "fancier" corys like an orange laser or something (3" Size).

I was planning on buying some of this from the co-op for my bottom feeders. I saw this on the bottle and realized I can actually make it now because I have a dehydrator. Has anyone tried it? Does it sink? The logic being that it will be able to be stored a bit differently than the other, traditional uses for the food. Usually I make a big batch and freeze the majority of it, reserve enough in the fridge that's "fresh" but pull a cube in the freezer whenever I feel like feeding it.

Can we get a category for fish food?

What is your nitrates when you test? Hardness (KH and GH?) What is the light you're using on the tank? Because it's anubias and it's a small tank it could be too powerful for the plant. That is one variable.... Second to that, to your question, you would use 1/4 of a pump per week (.25-.35 ml)

very likely you're talking about an anubias or java fern type of a setup.

Did you QT them or just use the 29G as your QT mechanism? It's tough to have that happen especially up front because some meds might hurt the cycle.

Have you ever seen the pondguru channel? He went through trying to filter out / clean up his pond and may have some useful advice. One method might be plants or floating plants that would help to block out some of the light and absorb some of the nutrients in the water.

Any idea what types would interest you? Shrimp? Corydoras?

I would suggest moving this to the diseases section to get the right support. What is the setup, tank parameters, water results, etc? What kind of shrimp? Can you attach photos or video of anything you're seeing please.

Should be fine with either. The whole idea of fish in cycling is to have low numbers at first. You don't want to load up the tank right away and cause a huge ammonia spike, but slowly add load over time.

Agreed. I think specifically for breeding having a species only setup is going to be best for you. (following what dean does is a perfect example). I have done some colony type setups where it's a community tank, but I bred out one of the fish as well. You're going to have limited success as a result of that. Colony breeding (species only tank) or having proper breeding tanks is going to be your best method for success. If your concern is specifically just having something in the tank to help keep things "cleaned" I would just add some amano shrimp and not another species of fish.

They both do the same thing. Dosing amounts are just speaking to the amount of "stuff" per oz of liquid. There really isn't going to be a major difference, I just get whatever is available. I've used tetra, aqueon, some other brand they had at petco, stability, whatever is cheapest. (No fritz stuff available locally here)

For the tank you're looking at something like this would be fine. There's also other options. fish for thought has some lights he prefers. I would choose between the fluval and that one, just really depends what features you want. Hopefully the co-op lights would be out soon, but I know they said they are starting with larger sizes to fill the order requirements for the shorter sizes. That's the three I think are "worth" looking into.

I run 2 on my 75G I highly recommend the fluval E Series heaters.

it protects the pump and allows you to adjust the flow on everything in the line. whatever "air pressure" is left over is going to go out of the air stone and will result in giving the air pump itself a bit easier lifetime. If you have a HoB you just take some of your old media on your existing tank, add it to the new tank and begin to cycle it. In the existing tank you add new media and then off you go. I basically view it as a 29G needs at least 1 sponge, 55+ tanks need more because they are much longer. a 40B I would probably run 2 as well. Length of the tank is what determines the filters for me and trying to eliminate dead spots.

it's one of the few things everyone should have on hand. yes. You may not need to add any to the tank, but in the case of you're having nitrites or ammonia at extremely high levels and the fish are not doing well, you can add it to help out. The bacteria is to boost your cycle, you're going to be adding some every day for the next 7 days. That's usually the directions on the bottle, but follow whatever it says on the bottle. They do the same thing. Seachem is the "name brand" so to speak, that's all.

I did pogostemon stellatus octopus in my 55/75 setup. Works well and went from the ground and then grew so tall it overshadowed everything. Simple trim and you can keep that shade in control. Floating, depending if you have HoB or not, you might not have the ability to control where it sits but either on of those are going to grow like crazy and do exactly what you're looking for 🙂 The nice thing, Cory is running each one of these in the tubs in his fish room so you can see all of them floating and what they will do.

I really hope it's not some two foot pleco because it's a very beautiful design. ^^ it looks like an extremely malnourished clown pleco. There's another term for that variety..... What was it.

Unfortunately, there isn't. It's just something that we all are stuck with as a result of that med and that stain. Anything that is silicone usually keeps that color, suction cups and so many other things.

Not at all! I think you should just plant the roots and let it grow like a normal stem plant. 🙂 You'd want to place it towards the back of the tank, as your background on either side.

i would take a good look for more.