Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

nabokovfan87

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    11,079

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    There's a setting for the main pressure Cory recommends in his CO2, that's what I've always set it to, then gone ahead and adjust the needle valve accordingly. Depending on the size of the tank that pressure should change slightly but still be somewhat in that range. Just checked, he said he runs his around 40 or so. Anywhere near there is fine.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I just watched a video by Corvus Oscen about stem plants and maintenance. It was something I never knew about how to "correctly" maintain them. Needless to say my tanks always had bare sections on the bottom and now I know how to handle that moving forward.
  3. nabokovfan87
    I'm not sure who has seen these. Does anyone from the Co-op have any idea when these would be available or if there have been any brought in for testing? Maybe it was mentioned on a live stream and I missed it or something. What is everyone's thoughts on diffusers. Has anyone used both, the neo diffuser and the traditional glass ones, and is willing to talk about the pros and cons of either?
  4. nabokovfan87
    I had similar issues, yes it's normal. There is a method to the madness of course. It takes a long time for CO2 adjustments to show themselves. Keep an eye on bubble count but check it every 2 hours the next couple of days (let it run for at least an hour to have "true readings" on the lines). Yeah, please don't lift buckets. If you ever have to fill and can't use a python I'd recommend just having a pump that you can use to feed water into the tank. Some people get a large trashcan on wheels and use that instead of the buckets. A bit more to store week to week, but I just mention it in case someone ever needs the tip.
  5. nabokovfan87
    I'm gonna have a nightmare about this line tonight. LOL. The worst part is I have a python, but no sink to hook it up to and to get it from the tank, through the hallway, through the front porch and to the hose hookup, I need to add another 10 foot of hose. It's fine..... I need to lift all them buckets, good for the arms and core, right? I saw the updated pic of your tank, it's looking like mine except for mine has BBA/Staghorn and a different color shade. I know algae takes time, but I feel your impatience you mentioned earlier.
  6. nabokovfan87
    I would highly recommend the Fluval planted. If you're sticking to that price range I don't think much beats it until you get into the extremely nice stuff like what King of DIY has on some of his tanks. On my 75 I had one fluval planted and didn't have issues. You can get one now, then get another when you need it. OR you can run the nicrew and the planted 2.0 (3 in total) if you absolutely need to. Because of how close the fluvals are designed to sit on the lid, they can help to minimize the air gap (added refraction) on the LED ---> Lid --> Air ---> Water refraction issue. Something else to keep in mind in comparison to all of the other shapes of lights on the market. You might also get a Fluval now, then a co-op light when released.
  7. nabokovfan87
    Here's to hoping the little guy wakes up hungry. Wishing for the best for you two.
  8. nabokovfan87
  9. nabokovfan87
    Yes you can add salt with the meds. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/aquarium-salt-for-sick-fish Recommended dose is 1 Tbsp per 3 gallons of water. It helps with constipation, recovery, and respiration specifically. I add it whenever I am dosing meds.
  10. nabokovfan87
    He might not, eventually he should. I understand your concern. some fish just won't eat when there's water or med issues. Something to keep in mind for future, is that puffers are scaleless and for any scaleless fish you usually dose slightly less meds. I am reading through the directions and it's saying it could take up to 4 doses for parasites that have a 28 day lifecycle. I would go ahead and dose salt not, your next water change is in 4 days it looks like. whatever is on the box or package for salt, dose half that amount specified. The only other thing of note in the directions was that it specifies not to use sulfur based water conditioners (reduces effectiveness of the meds). With the salt added. he may perk up in 12-24 hours and might eat for you.
  11. nabokovfan87
    What is the current status as far as this course of meds? Take a bloodworm in a pair of tweezers and try to entice the little guy. see if he will eat it. chopsticks work as well but metal is safer to use.
  12. nabokovfan87
    Here is the VLOG where Cory first makes Repashy as well. He talks about if you mess up you can microwave it to get it hot again 🙂
  13. nabokovfan87
    This might help.
  14. nabokovfan87
    I understand. It can set fast. Especially when "fresh". Just keep going and trust it. The longer it stays hotter, easier it will be.
  15. nabokovfan87
    Yeah. I think that's what I usually do as well (only ever used the soilent green). I think it just needs to be mixed more. 1:3 ratio. In the video with Lamont (I swear it's the one when cory eats repashy) they talk about reheating it.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Yes. You can mix a higher portion per batch (check Cory's video for his method) and it will be looser or more dense of a mix. If you're having issues with it setting just be sure to mix it really well. I do believe you can reheat it with some hot water and get it to liquify again. You'd have to use more powder, definitely an issue. Let me see if I can find a video. I remember it came up on this tour of Lamont's place. I'll edit with a timecode when I find it. https://youtu.be/EDCPFTi72io
  17. nabokovfan87
    The directions say to dose X amount per 10G. (or up to 10x that amount). The directions don't say to re-dose or to dose over a period of time. The Seachem directions seem to be more thoughtful to remove any questions on method. You are going to be safe with either method, slower dosing over time (stability) or by dosing it in larger chunks several times and giving the bacteria a few days to seed itself.
  18. nabokovfan87
    not the best filter choice, but looks good. I am surprised there isn't more hardscape or a decent light. No information on what you need for their shells and stuff, but yeah. It's "A start" in the right direction. I went to petsmart yesterday. I always look at the bettas. I was pretty...... horrified when I saw their new "globetta" section. On top of them never having good conditions, that just made it really highlight the issues for me. I was trying to find some glue for plants, person didn't know what it was (I'm totally fine with that) but they had 2 aisles of "decorations" and an endcap with a choice of brown or grey substrate. Very weird store I have locally. In mine, they also started to encroach the terrarium stuff where they used to have the frozen foods.
  19. nabokovfan87
    KH and GH are referring to how many minerals are in the water being used. Some fish require specific needs. There are test strips the co-op sells that I would recommend (usually you can get the tetra test strips) available locally as well but will be slightly more expensive. These two parameters tie into PH and If you don't see any improvement in a few days (48 hours or so) you might benefit from adding salt. Sometimes the pea puffers just get moody. It's part of their personality unfortunately. Being honest. I don't know if you should add salt now because of the meds being in the system already. Especially if you're scheduled to change water soon. If you have a local shop as well, even a big box store, they should be able to test your water for you.
  20. nabokovfan87
    Often, that's on the shipper, not the seller. They didn't secure the load and obviously bags of whatever fell as well. Pretty common sense to know glass is fragile. Not sure why it wasn't secured properly.
  21. nabokovfan87
    I think this came up on goliad farms. They do repairs to their tubs because of issues with specific corners that receive damage over time and have a weak spot. They have to use a very specific tool and end up plastic welding it. I would think you need to use a port / hole style window with rubber gaskets. (think, submarine window) which would just be a lot of work but extremely reliable.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Actual, real, legit sand is the best thing I've ever used and I absolutely love having it in my tanks. Because I don't want the look of having planted substrate mixed around with the sand itself, I have opted on this iteration of my tank using a fine gravel, not sand at all, but just a bit different care requirements. Sand compacts, and tends to keep things on top of the surface of the substrate. There is going to be some mixing based on flow, thickness, and you need a strong siphon to be able to pick up some things. Legitimately for me, that medium in my eye is my favorite one by far and is something that made it feel like a wonderfully natural place. It sounds childish, but playing in the sand during water changes is just fun, LOL. looks absolutely beautiful. Nice work.
  23. nabokovfan87
    I use bath mats, the memory foam types, that you would use in the shower. It's a lot easier than having a towel on the floor all the time. The main thing from what Cory has advised is to get something a big cheaper. You don't want long strands, just something that is absorbent (moreso than concrete).
  24. nabokovfan87
    I would lean towards the zebra loach (4" in length) or the yo-yo loach. The issue is that you really want 3-4 of them at minimum and I don't think this tank is really big enough for that species of fish. I would suggest waiting, have something to look forward to, whenever you get a tank that is 29G or larger. You really want to have something a bit bigger because it's a very, very active species. Dwarf chain loach is probably the only one that makes sense in any way for this tank. EDIT: hillstream loaches, borneo loaches are a great fish to keep, but I will go back to the number you're really looking to keep (you can keep 1 as an algae control fish) but keep in mind that they have very specific flow and temperature requirements.
  25. nabokovfan87
    It sounds like everything you're doing is right. My question is going to be what is the KH, GH, PH, Temperature. Is the other conditions good for the bettas or the Pea Puffer. Are you feeding bloodworms or something else? Do you happen to have some salt on hand? This might also be a great thing to add to bolster the fish while it's suffering. It also helps with constipation. Again, I think what you're doing is what you need to be doing and the Nitrogen cycle looks to be doing well. Could be flow, oxygen, temperature, or hardness related. If you haven't here is a great video to talk through everything going on...
×
×
  • Create New...