nabokovfan87

That's a good sign. Most shrimp are going to be most active at night.

Give them few days of a break from food And see what happens after that break. Are the amanos moving around at night or no?

OK so......... I definitely have a few "attempts" at trying to fix that particular mess in my constant BBA farms. A special shoutout to whatever the heck is in my water that keeps causing this insanity. Besides my issues with lights and what not, I swear there's got to be something coming in during water changes. (yes the water does normally have nitrates, but recently KH has fallen off) This is when I got the lighting messed up: After adjusting lighting intensity (90% down to 75%) and adding some more amanos/otos. This was the same tank 2 weeks later: If you can, I highly recommend housing those two species in any planted tank. Following that, CO2, adjusting fert/lighting schedules, there is definitely a lot of tweaks that can help make things perfect for you. The info Torrey posted is invaluable and extremely useful. So hopefully everyone here is able to put you at ease how normal this is and how..... we all wish our tanks were flawless, but we all have some algae going on. Seachem has the liquid potassium. They should also have magnesium. You can also look for EI dosing powders to use as well.

GEEEEEEZE that sucks. Poor little guy. I hope it grows alright.

I totally understand the frustration. The way I usually handle that issue is to go ahead and clean the filter constantly, every 2-3 days. After a few times it should equalize the bit and the tank/filter work a bit better together. If you're still having issues you might be running too much flow and just clogging it that way. (you can run a sponge on one size, add an air stone on the other to keep circulation, but lessen the load on the sponge itself. A secondary option, go out and grab a cheap HoB and run that for a day or two and then remove it. That should help as well to let the sponge clear out the chunks if the tank is just filled with mulm or something that is clogging the sponge. Lastly, depending what is clogging, you might be over feeding? You can try keeping track of what the fish eat when feeding and what is left over after 10-15 minutes and adjust accordingly. I've never had "the luck of" letting a sponge run for a long time. Maybe it's just me and what my tanks look like and how I feed but I stick to weekly/biweekly cleanouts these days. Try weekly at the least (just for the sponge itself, not even changing water) and see if that fixes the issue as well.

I would probably try moving the heater to the right side, mirror the angle you have now basically, but just to the right of the sponge filter and see how the shrimp react. If they still aren't active you might try rotating the output so the flow is L/R instead of surface / floor. What is your food that you offer them? If you can, try an algae wafer (break it into 3-4 pieces) or try the small pellets or something easy for them to grab. Mine will literally eat anything and spend all day on just about every bit of decor in the tank. Edit: And just for clarity, temp is perfect 72-74 is where I keep mine. I would feel with your hand if there is any cold / dead spots and how flow is in the tank itself. That's the only reason I would think they hang out there that way is resting during the day. Hopefully at night they have a party.

One of my favorite colorations and it's such an enjoyable fish to keep. I wish rams were more popular than bettas. This is a very unique looking one, but shows you how amazing they can be. and another 😍

Can you show a top view. I'm trying to figure out how the circulation off the canister is reaching the thermometer. Especially the eheims, I always have to blast them pretty hard with flow. It's extremely common for the shrimp to hang out there. 24/7 for 2 weeks is the issue. Second to that, what is the actual temp you're at? I would check tonight well after the lights go out and see if the shrimp are being very nocturnal. It can happen, but amanos usually are either hidden or out care free. I would expect them to be in shaded areas of the tank, rock, wood, plants, etc. It might be as simple as moving the thermometer closer to the output of the canister.

Can you show a picture of the tank? Rim or rimless? If you want to use plastic, get lexan, acrylic will wilt over time. There is also something like netting you can use or places that may already have a lit for you that you can simply purchase. You can also just get a sheet of glass and cut it to size.

Sharks have something like 8-9 senses (it can vary from shark to shark). Great whites have the normal senses, the also sense pressure, EMFs, they have Ampullae of Lorenzini, and their lateral lines. ....and.... https://www.elasmodiver.com/shark_senses.htm

absolutely agree.

What is the temperature? What is the filtration, hardscape on the tank? Photos if you can please. The only thing that jumps out as any different for me is that the PH might be high. It shouldn't be an issue. Ensuring they are getting enough calcium and proper food as well as grazing around is going to be the big question. Females also tend to stay stuck in high flow spots when releasing their zoeys, but that's 1-2 days at most, not 2 weeks.

There is a 20H, 20L, and 20X. All different tanks.

The squiggles might not come in until they get a bit bigger. Either case, it's a beautiful fish and the patterns are amazing. The false julii's I had looked exactly like that when we first got them and later developed the traditional pattern. I can't really clearly answer, but this photo gives you an idea (and obviously we don't have a before or after to compare this to) of the pattern starting to form. The easiest way to know for certain is likely going to be the belly/body region. Edit: here's some that look similar to those via aquahuna

LOL. That's hillarious. He/she is batman or something. I had one of mine resting on a rock and I had to do a double take. It was a very tall pointy rock and the cory had balanced itself and was in place on essentially a rock edge the size of a tip of a pen and just hanging out.

I would absolutely use the 20 over a 10 in any case. Your filter size, your water changes, it all balances out nicely on a 20 compared to a 10. When I change my 10G QT setup I always hate how harsh the water is when I pour it back in. I don't like that I put in one piece of something and feel like the tank is full. Having space for the scape and the fish is pretty important to me. Minimum tank for me is usually a 29G. I really like the 20L for other uses, but the height of a 29G is something I really enjoy to give the fish some division. That being said..... exactly what you have, 20H is right at the minimum and saves you some footprint, gives some verticality. Perfect choice if you're space limited. I also can't get my stupid 10G lid to stay open because it's so small and the hinge is made of space plastic or something and snaps back whenever I open it. petco might, they tend to have slightly different availability and aqueon loves making 20L tanks. a 20X is 20" long. Would fit without modifying the stand.

what is the stand you have now? I wonder if there is someone who would be willing to make one for him that fits your needs. What about the co-op squeeze bottle? Does that help with the method of feeding to make it a little easier?

I know there is a video where it was fully discussed on one of the vlogs, Corvus and Cory were talking about a stand or answering a question from a viewer about setting up a tank stand. I'll keep an eye out and try to find it. That being said..... this is the story a lot of us know, for those who don't it's worth watching the entire video. I started it at the point that's relevant.

I woke up this morning to 4 of the Corys doing up-downs on the glass. I had scraped it yesterday. I really need to get a mop in the tank or some moss. I'll end up making one today, I have a cork I'm going to soak just in case it leeches anything. The plants seem to be melting, which is fine. The sterogyne repens is completely gone and I'm hoping to see some new growth but it looks like it's just going to crash on me. I have some crushed coral and catappa leaves on the way to add to the tank as well. This lets me add some magnesium / KH for the plants just in case that is causing some issues, slightly raise the PH, then give the corys a surface to lay on if that is something they are still trying to find. I found my glue, so I also was able to glue in all the anubias, finally! It's a slow update, but it's a pretty critical one. I feel like I'm so close to having the tank do well and get back to feeling like I know how to grow a plant. I've been dosing a lot more easy green, extended the lighting window, and I'm hoping to start seeing some results from this. I also have been seeing some breeding behavior from the otos (not mating, but just the way they split off and follow one another). I am working on setting up a tank in the living room with the family fish and hopefully will be able to move the RTBS depending what the store has in stock to fit the stand. A final note, I pulled the air pump I had installed and replaced it with a lower power one to try to decrease flow. I still want to pull the airstone, but need to completely replace the pump I have. I tried adding my aqueon air pump, but it's dual output, I need a single, and its not strong enough to feed the ziss bubble bio filter. The other one I have on hand is battery powered, or the nano air pump which isn't strong enough either. This would give the fish a bit of a calmer spot where they keep doing the up-downs and a bit easier time trying to lay eggs on the glass. I also went down the avenue trying to replace the lid. Needless to say the "custom lid" didn't work because they don't understand what the word custom meant when I messaged them. I looked up a glass shop, due to cost I'm likely going to end up making one myself. I want to find the right hinge material, but for now I'm focused on the plants. I'll include some detail pictures of their status in the next update. Fingers crossed on new growth.

I saw this.

If it gets clogged with mulm and stuff you can clean it out to "reset it". The air intake tends to get clogged and then it feeds up into the media sometimes. The sponge does degrade over time. I've been using mine for about 4-5 years (basically since Cory got them in stock) and haven't replaced anything. Pretty soon here I need to cut some new sponge. Beyond that, no.

It's amazing to me.... I see commercials you'd only ever see because the robots on youtube saw you watch a fluval video. Then they talk about how they innovated 30-50 years ago.... The product to this day is mostly unchanged. I WISH companies really understood an engineers job to the extent of design constraints and things like kits for repair/servicing. Mod kits. One of the easiest things you could do (and literally ANY company could do it) sell a plug for the pump hole in the AC filters, then re-design and create a new intake. The box is "fine" but there's so many small ways to improve a product without modifying tooling or minimally modifying tooling. A great example. The seachem filters, we all have issues with the holes in the box, with the surface skimmer slots. It actually does not modify tooling to remove those holes. It makes the part *easier* to manufacture, costs less to manufacture, and improves the flow of the plastic in the mold when you manufacture it. It's ironic how they won't create a "planted tank" version or modify some of these cutouts. Like the basket, the large cutouts. It's actually cheaper to not cut all of those holes and the product would actually work a lot better.

That's amazing. Nicely done!

let me see if I can find it and send a screenshot or a cory video. 🙂 it should start at the time right when Cory is talking about that feature.

Looks like a big female to me. I haven't bred these before but what I researched, could be wrong, that they lay eggs on the underside of leaves. So it might be egg bound.