nabokovfan87

Very beautiful fish. Welcome! We are all here to help you and the family in your journey. There's a ton of great betta keepers on here 🙂

-Flat work surface with a sharp edge on the corner -80 grit sandpaper, preferably in a block form -"fine" grit sandpaper, preferably in a block form -cutting tool, cutting oil -Straight edge or L shaped scale (T-Shape should work easier) -clamps help, but not critical. If you're cutting the glass for the tank, then yes, you need clamps to have it straight while you cut the glass and snap the edge. -cut safe gloves -some sort of mask when sanding and measure like 5 times.... 😂

Just a heads up. Those are very similar to what ACO sells. Slightly different mesh, but it may work for your needs. Be sure to check those ones out too! 🙂 https://www.aquariumcoop.com/products/aquarium-fish-tank-media-filter-bag

Absolutely awesome tank. Well done.

Makes sense. I had a similar issue with the tidal. I posted in there on prepping the surface / adhesion holes, etc. I would use Stainless hooks or something (very small) to thread into the wood and then use those as your anchor for whatever adhesive you use. You could try L-brackets as well. For attachment on the wood it's underwater, rotting, so it's difficult to keep stuff attached. I can't really find a good example of bracket / epoxy method, but here's one that shows off the epoxy holes design. This is from an undersink mounting epoxy attachment bracket design.

I would use silicone and let it cure. I can't say it's permanent, but I've seen some reports of chemical issues with hot glue and I don't think superglue will hold that long term. The wood itself gets the film on it and it's slightly easy to break off the outer layer / glue. I would try to anchor something into the wood to adhere it to. The other option is 3d printed items and suction cups on the glass.

If you haven't seen it, I'll post there here as well. For #1 and 2 the video should have those answers for you as well as the post above. If you're having issues with the tubing, take some hot water from the faucet and dip the tube in for a few minutes. It will become a little bit easier to get that tubing onto the green attachment piece. I actually struggle constantly with the ACO tubing, but that's just a preference thing.

Looks great. Welcome! Do you still have the bowfront?

I have one guess on where it was purchased from..... I would not trust either and ask for a refund / replacement. The photos you have enough are enough to tell me that the item was damaged in shipping. You can run a test if you need to, but long term don't trust it. Meds, if they got soaked, definitely don't use them at all. If it is just the box was crushed, you're ok, but I would expect that if the liquid seeped into the packaging there's a high risk of contamination with some unknown liquid reagent. Totally forgot about this. YEP! Definitely frustrating.

Are you talking about the bag that came with the matrix? I mistakenly had a similar experience. 😞 Ultimately I ended up just using something like the ACO filter media bags they sell, or buying at least 1 of the Tidal series zeolite / carbon / matrix in the size I needed for the sake of having another bag thats a decent size.

😂 Well I guess the little guy earned his name! Maybe there is heat coming off the light? Maybe the lid is so tight that is sucks out the oxygen or something when the light is on? Definitely a strange issue. I would run a test to see.... Next time the light comes on and he's breathing heavily, open the lid and see if that changes behavior in terms of rapid breathing.

It is pretty relevant to have KH along with these results. Because of the ones that are in the 7.4-7.6 range and that's low on that high range PH test, I would recommend retesting those for clarity on the low PH test.

Interesting setup. I'll check out the original thread in the morning. I wanted to mention that for "near silent" air I recommend the ziss air stones or something similar that can be adjusted. They definitely tune things down quite nicely to the point where I constantly had to look over and make sure the power was on. As for the above future idea, I would check out Dean's spraybar design and potentially something like that would work? One inlet on each end sort of a setup. That would also give you the option to have a bar across the top, pumps at the top of each of the uplift tubes into the spray bar. This would also get rid of the cord issue you were trying to work through too.

I can see them now (on my phone) last time I had tried to view them it was just a URL and wasn't loading the image properly. Checking it out now.

If you want to send me photos so I can see what you're having issues with. All of mine have been too short (front to back). Amazon lid: bows because the glass is so thin on a 30" span and the rear trim is a joke. Had to buy adhesive for the handle Top fin lid: not great, but works fine, cheap and you can tell. Too short front to back. Aqueon: "fine" in terms of quality. The issue I had was that the hinge plastic deteriorated after 2-3 months and wasn't a lid anymore. Also, wrong trim piece was with it. Too short. Marineland: not available, same dims as top fin not aqueon Custom lid: cost / not available Make it yourself: last resort.

YEP. I ended up buying the correct piece (it fits thicker glass, 40B trim, basically, and then gluing that to my lid to make it fit with silicone (my aqueon). It's totally dumb that people don't realize what dimensions are for a product designed for this tank. I've bought 4 of them, none fit. 🙂 If you have a glass shop, buy the correct rear piece, buy the hinge, get it cut with thicker glass and off ya go. It's a real weird situation, especially considering how often 29G tanks are sold. I even called aqueon to get the right piece and they said "no, it's right". SO..... there's no hope.

@venzi file issues for me too. can you re-upload the photos?

It was def. a crack. It might not have gone through the pane, but the issue with it was position (right on the edge / corner.

It should be ok because it's a 10G. given that you had a crack, potentially some stress on it, try to check it during the next WC. The tank being unlevel is ok if it's left to right or front to back (or vise versa) but the issue is when you have both and you have twisting forces.

So simple, but so awesome. A few plants.... amazing tank. So much contrast!

I would definitely remove the leaf. Depending on what's going on with the tank, the rest of the plants, the only real concern is trying to figure out if the position of the plant is causing the algae or something else.

absolutely amazing colors in your photos. nice work. Photography work aside, very awesome tank as well! One day..... I will have some discus because I constantly see tanks like this.

Why do I get the feeling @Chick-In-Of-TheSea knows someone who has one of these or has one in the broom closet. 😂 Honestly, I'd love that job!

One more, sorry, I had to re-glue some anubias before I could snap the photo. These are all the same 2 cheap pieces of wood and the same two rocks. Just very interesting placement options! Fish enjoy the tank to be moved around too and when you see them to have a place they like, especially the centerpiece fish, you'll find a good spot and everything will settle scape-wise. @Cinnebuns ^^ It really, really depends. I typically try to find 20lb or larger "lots". Larger lot meaning, you have a good chance of getting a much larger stone. If you get a per lb box, you might get something like: Ultimately, it really depends on what size stone you're looking for and how much / many of them. The ones I got from ACO were WYSIWYG style, but they haven't had that for a little while. There is other places to check out and you can get similar or "random" lots. The same type of rules would apply generally, more lbs = larger stones overall. Home depot and Lowes used to sell them from lifegard aquatics in lots like this for crazy cheap. Once youtubers got wind, the masses knew, and now that's not as readily available.

yes! A natural tank! The wood looks pretty awesome. Moss on the top / surface of the mopani is a great start if you like the "grassy hill" type of a look. The nice thing about the driftwood you have is that it provides verticality. Especially in a 29G. Let me show you something...... brb (snapping photos and moving hardscape for demo) Alright, because of the shape of the wood you have, you can do something like this and potentially use rocks in such a way to give it movement. It's "active" wood in terms of it's a branch with texture and twists and branches and not a stump. It makes your eye look along it, rather than at it. I have 2-3 pieces that were just dirt cheap but they are what I had available and what I started with. Pop on some plants and you turn that into an amazing little environment for a lot of plants, fish, and it's visually interesting. It looks much better in person 🙂 Current setup: Adjusting it to be "taller" to fit the tank better: I can flip these things around and there's a ton of ways to place them and visually make it interesting, but to give the fish a cave/hide as well. It's how I use the random bits of hardscape that don't quite work well, but I just like the look of each piece individually. It's 1/2-1/3 the price of going out and buying some designer WYSIWG pieces, but I really like having this type of a tank and seeing what can be done with some effort and futzing around.