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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Essentially, these fish had the worms prior to your care for unknown amount of time, you're feeding good food, they are in good care now! Once you see one, you treat it. Right now you're at the "need to diagnose it" but you're also already in QT. Add air, salt, and then just finish up the med you're on. help them pass everything. You can opt NOT to use standard salt in the water and do epsom salt baths, but that is reserved for a severe bloating / internal issue and you aren't at that point right now. Aquarium salt = electrolytes and helps them with the stress of osmosis as well as the stress of meds / oxygenation. One of those things where I do a level 1-2 most often whenever dosing meds for fish. Even in a planted tank. You're already in QT, no reason to stress or anything, you've been through the worst with the columnaris stuff so you're all good. You're looking at minimum 3 treatments of expel-P right now and then monitoring them, but you also want to finish up QT and what you're in the process of now. You add on that med as a "yep, need to use it" because you want to also treat for roundworms now. Some species are more prevalent to it, but it's the * on the med trio anyways. It's a lot more work, it's something we all should do generally before adding to the community tank. It's less beginner friendly because it is a multiple dose situation. That being said, here is the video for it! It is also on the main med trio video. Every time I use meds I re-watch these, literally every time.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I would finish it. I did 2 rounds of paracleanse and then did the treatment with prazipro / expel-p just to get rid of worms. Paracleans and prazi are very similar in terms of the main ingredient from what I saw, so I essentially did 3-4 treatments of prazi with rest, salt, and the expel-p doses mixed in there over about a month or 1.5 months. Whatever it was. The key being, most meds are more effective when digested. Expel-P is deactivated via light, so those two things needs to be considered. I generally don't dose meds for fish into the food because I suck at it. That's just me, so I don't dose the food. If I do dose the food it's usually repashy.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Looks like it. Biggest indicator for me was the first three spines on the dorsal fin (hopefully that's the right anatomy name) and then the streamers on the tail growing in. I do see those starting on yours, so leans male for sure 🙂 Yours definitely seems like he'd (potentially) run around with an axe for fun to me! It'll be interesting what name you end up on.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Sometimes saltwater only you can get various size foods for corals / fish. I didn't have the stuff you had available, but I tried using the frozen rotifers. I had no idea how often and how much, so you're ahead of me there. Mine lived about ~10 days before I saw some pretty big die offs. I also want to try again WITH a greenwater tank to use to feed them.
  5. nabokovfan87
    @AnimalNerd98do you happen to have a decent saltwater shop near you?
  6. nabokovfan87
    For either paracleanse / expel-p you're talking a minimum of 2 treatments, likely 3.
  7. nabokovfan87
    @TeeJayWhenever you hear (if) you hear that noise again, I'd recommend for the sake of the testing and making sure you're not risking equipment damage: A. Take a video showing the HoB with the lid off so we can see flow B. Intake to show it's not an airstone and how the input/intake flow looks C. Take the filter apart and then show the pump / impeller housing (that piece you take off to clean the impeller blades) as well as the black box that surrounds the pump to see if there is and how much gunk is blocking things. On the intake tube itself..... 1. Remove the blue dial 2. Drill out the opening so you have a full circle 3. Fill the blue dial holes / grill holes 4. Holes in the base of the intake basket 5. Pre-filter sponge I am listing the above for the sake of clarity to make sure something wasn't missed in translation. I know the thread is back and forth, so I wanted to just briefly list it out. Let me know if you need anything.
  8. nabokovfan87
    looks like a bloodworm / roundworm if it's a worm. At the end, it looks like the water current moves the worm. something causing it to move. Honestly, it's likely waste or uneaten food. Either case, you're fine to treat for worms / parasites. It would be internal, and you'd be treating with the med where you need to black out the tank for 24 hours after dosing.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Looks like poop to me. It's not alive / moving, I don't see much. Maybe from feeding bloodworms? If you're having anything with worms you'd want to treat with both parasite meds. On levamisole you have to black out tank for first 24 hours. I believe that's Expel-P, but just don't recall right now.
  10. nabokovfan87
    It totally seems like a piece of pre-filter decided to become sentient and organic and start to grow. Crazy looking stuff, but as always super interesting. Best of luck with the journey trying to ID / remove (if that's the desire)
  11. nabokovfan87
    Great point @Odd Duck. That might actually force me to dry things every time before hanging them. Metal stand definitely is getting some magnets and hooks. I tend to be the mindset of a chef/surgeon when I work and always needed an extra set of hands. I always seem to need to ask for help for "please hold this for a second" and it could be a list of 5+ things by the time I'm actually done with the work. A specimen container and the "cheap" equipment always gets the brunt of it!!! 😂 At least now, they have a home 🙂 I just got a drawer holder / block for my cooking knives as well, so yeah.... OCD or something must be kicking in! How are your tanks doing, how is the moss garden going?
  12. nabokovfan87
    So the wood in question is mopani. A. Boil it for the sake of sanitization. DO NOT use a kitchen pot. I have my own fish pot because the last piece of mopani I cooked decided to seep some goop all over the pot. It took a while for it to get clean, but not sure if that's safe for spaghetti anymore. B. You can then soak it for any desired length of time. Typical is 3-5 days minimum. You can go longer. C. Add it to the tank. You WILL ALWAYS have some tannins in the tank because it is mopani and it's the most wonderfully dense and tannin-ed wood you can get besides something like malaysian driftwood. This stuff is like tea bags. Even with weekly 50% WCs my tank has tannins and it's not something I expect to ever go away..... this is 4-5 years after the wood was first purchased. For the first few years, you're going to have tannins pretty heavily and you control that color by how often and what volume of water is changed.
  13. nabokovfan87
    I think the app is called aquarium notebook. It allows you to log the tank, parameters, equipment, etc. and then update it over time. I don't know if v2 lets you log deaths, but I would use that to keep an eye on what fish, when I got them, how many, etc. Once in a while I would do the big clean and just double check. It's a lot easier when you're not dealing with livebearers. Another tip from somewhere in the ether of fish hobbyists, you take a photo from above, then count them in the photo. This works very well for large groups and a tank that is pretty empty..... or a horde of corydoras scooted off to the open side of the tank!
  14. nabokovfan87
    Not sure why I was worried. Even in the photo you can see. These "skimmer holes" are depressions and not through the box itself. Cleaning the filter and then going to go ahead and add back in the modded, re-modded, super duper intake of awesome suction. Please stop eating my moss tidal!!!!
  15. nabokovfan87
    The pandas should just ignore them. They generally learn pretty quickly to avoid being pecked. Mine grew up with a red tail black shark and she definitely doesn't tolerate them in some spots. They had the ram, even just the one, he had his spot and the pandas had theirs. Best of luck with the tank, I'm excited for your future success!
  16. nabokovfan87
    I don't know if it's tropica, but someone sells one. I just hate that it doesn't have a base for stuff to drip in.
  17. nabokovfan87
    No they won't do well that low. Mine died from being too cold 😞 Pandas and Rams works, but it's hard on one or the other. 😞 I will definitely have a ram one day, but yeah... I can report there is zero issue keeping them with other bottom dwellers.
  18. nabokovfan87
    They definitely will rust even Stainless. It's less likely, but I've seen a ton of them with it. I think most of mine are anodized Stainless, but yeah! You're 100% correct. I usually let stuff dry out and then store it there. It'll be SO NICE to have it in hands reach instead of, "Hmmm, where is that.... oh there it is".
  19. nabokovfan87
    Chai Tea? 😂 That reminds me.... I need coffee.... and thank you for the reminder to feed the panda horde, I've been cooking all morning!
  20. nabokovfan87
    Hard to know it's working when it isn't also.... it might be fine, but you will need to keep up on when to change the filter just to be on the safe side. Question for me would be what exactly is the setup. Overflow? Water in --> Water out? Are you draining a tank, then filling it without having to move a python around? You can setup a dosing pump for dechlorinator on a schedule. There is some risk, but that's what that setup would be to get rid of filtering the water. Option 2 would be to use a tank, pump the water from that holding tank and precondition the water as opposed to running it from the plumbing directly.
  21. nabokovfan87
    Got my order for a new Miir bottle for daily water. I also got THIS for my aquascaping tools. 16oz cup from their Climate+ side. I was trying to find something to hold my tools when working so I don't have to scratch up a specimen container. I wish the base was heavier (double walled, stainless steel) but having something where I don't care if something damp is set into that container, that's the priority. I found another one that was marketed as a "food canister" and sold by a coffee gear manufacturer and it looked pretty awesome. I have a ton of Miir stuff, so this is just the one I opted for to try out their new Climate+ line. Maybe one day we'll get a custom ACO Miir bottle? Anyways, I wanted to share this just for the sake of, benefit of, anyone who has their tools out and needs a simple solution. The tanks are doing fine, fed the fish, picked off some more algae from the black corydoras, feeding some worms. @Chick-In-Of-TheSea will laugh at this hopefully. I dropped in a bit of repashy in the tank and then this one amano shrimp that was on the wood grabbed it, was forced to hang upside down like a bat for a minute, and then tried to run off with it! Amanos are fun, but they do not realize how big food is sometimes. 😂 I dropped in some shrimp sticks and feeding some bloodworms. Nice easy day today and just enjoying the fish and the tanks. I upped the light on my black corydoras tank to try to give some of the higher demand plants more light. CO2 is dialed in, dosing ferts is dialed in, now it's literally just down to crossing my fingers and begging these things to grow! New moss on the log is doing nicely.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Corydoras like "shelfs" if that makes sense. If you're familiar with catfish / shark behavior (I am by no means in any way) something that great whites do and most catfish tend to do is try to be out of the way. They don't want to get attacked from underneath and so they feel much safer when they have their belly against the bottom of the substrate. They also camouflage similarly, bright belly helps block out predators from seeing them underneath, dark sides and body help them to be difficult to see from above. Alright.... so, this is "very normal" behavior from what I have seen and to me it's a sign that the Corydoras feel safe enough to interact with your scape in this manner. It also means that is the spot they have chosen to hang out because of flow. That is where they are resting to taking in oxygen and just recover. You might also see eggs around this rock, typically underneath or on plants near this region. I would verify those rocks won't fall if nudges just to make sure something like that won't cause an issue. When I had the ziss bubble bio installed, The corys, amanos, and otos all sit on the top of it. This is very common for a variety of fish 🙂 . Not at all. My black corys I almost never see them eat. The two fry that grew up in the tank are more comfortable and I do see them eat. If you see bellies full, they are fine. If you see sunken bellies, then you'd want to treat with meds for internal parasites. They will typically only eat off the substrate, but if you have a large flat surface you can feed them there. Let's say that rock was 4x the size, I'd expect them to eat there. The behavior of them not eating there isn't an issue or a good or bad sign. You can try to feed them just after lights go out as well. Drop in some food, then sit in front of the tank for minimum of 15 minutes. You should see some of the fish eating. This gives the fish time to smell the food in the water and to get used to having you around the tank itself. Then they become comfortable, and then should come out to eat. Some corydoras won't eat with the lights on and can be much more active at night. My pandas are very much active when the light is on, but then in the herd there are some of them that are much more active after the lights turn dim! My black corys rest all day, during the lights out they are a bit more active and show behaviors only during those times.
  23. nabokovfan87
    Sorry, just now seeing this. It's on the YouTube channel let me find the video for you.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I would suggest adding some ceramic media in addition to the sponge for the sake of QT. Especially something like the AC20 bags of media are awesome for dumping in a filter and then moving it to a QT tank just to help it out. Worst case, run meds, then add it so you add in a dose of bacteria. Bags of lava rock would also work and allow you to keep the tank relatively bare bottom. Depending on the sponge you're using, some are a bit more plastic / smooth in texture while others have a bit easier time hosting bacteria. I'd love to see someone take some different sponges and compare bacteria growth day by day with a microscope, but I don't think that's been done. AC, Seachem, and those types of sponges don't struggle as much for me growing bacteria quickly as opposed to something like the more "matala mat" types of sponge. I'm sure porosity plays a more critical role, but hard to say... Again, this is just my experience and has no science behind it at all. For generally all filters I run sponge for mechanical and then I run ceramic or other traditional stone media as the biological host. Yes, I know that most sponge is a plastic based material, but I am specifically talking about the smooth, polished finish that some sponges have. When you clean them they sort of crunch a bit more.... hopefully that makes sense.
  25. nabokovfan87
    I think all of those plants will handle a blackout pretty well. Anubias definitely doesn't care. I would honestly do a deep clean, black it out for 7-14 days, and then go from there. Glad you're doing a bit better healthwise. Hopefully this tank settles down for you! 7 day blackouts are fine, without an issue. You do need to keep them wet, adding an airstone would be beneficial to keep flow and PH stable. When you replant them, it is typically a good time to trim plants and leaves out that need it. anything over 2" you can likely trim without issue. I am sure you can go shorter and a lot of people do when they trim roots back to encourage new growth.
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