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nabokovfan87

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Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    @Somethin fishy Welcome to the forums. Hopefully the group here can help you out with this! Can you provide a photo at all? If you suspect something like getting too stressed or tired, I would recommend using a hang-on breeder box or something like the ziss breeder box that would keep the fish closer to the surface. A few things right away would be to dose the tank with aquarium salt, which you did, (or a QT tank) and then go ahead and add an airstone. Struggling to stay upright would point towards a swim bladder issues potentially or internal issues. Do you see anything like red blotch disease? If you suspect something like internal issues (bloating, impacted, etc.) than the other option is to use Epsom salt baths. From my reading you don't want to use normal aquarium salt (in the tank) and epsom salt baths at the same time. This could lead to increasing issues when used together. There has been some discussion elsewhere with fry about crooked spines and those being linked to some food issues. The issues and shape your explaining, given past issues as well, I would suspect one possibility here is damage from hardscape, equipment, and it could be a spinal issues that is permanent damage of sorts. Pictures might help, but that would likely be a worst case scenario 😞 .
  2. nabokovfan87
    @Bev C I am assuming you have the standard aqeon tanks? I can't speak to the overall dimensions with the rims, but here is what I would suggest if you want to find hinges for them. 10G: hinge is about 19" wide with the rim. This means your hinge can be anything UNDER that size and it'll work fine. 55G: length on the versatops is 24" long x 12" depth. Hinge is actually going to be around 22"-23" long so anything under that should work.
  3. nabokovfan87
    Honestly, it sounds like a very particular store that I'm too familiar with. I wonder if there was some way to advise them, show them better setups that do a better job for the fish and their care. Something like what KGT or ACO has in their videos as well as other stores that keep them a bit better. I hate to see the glo style fish making more waves. The most disgusting thing I saw was a glo-corydoras. Can't explain why. This one reminds me of a Raphael.
  4. nabokovfan87
    Didn't you have that one video you thought was planaria too? Are you going to run both the parasite meds or what is your plan? Let me know if you need any help and there is as always Odd Duck's awesome schedule that was put together for use. My unfortunate thorough months of de-wormings are here to help. The biggest thing is substrate, manual removal for a lot of external parasites. Bacterial meds for secondary issues. Such an active tank. Awesome stuff, as always. 🙂
  5. nabokovfan87
    That's awesome. Very interesting how the colors change over generations and how breeders have to control all of that. Like with Dean and his black rams.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Can you send a photo of this? Very interesting. Sounds similar to the rain gutter guard I saw someone use. Definitely agreed! This is also literally just due to water level also. If you don't plan to seal the skimmer, no way to reliably boost intake on the intake itself. (Hopefully that makes sense) Especially for the size, very interesting! Have you ever used the ziss bubble bio?
  7. nabokovfan87
    Very cool nano fish! Will be exciting to see how they do for you.
  8. nabokovfan87
    I wonder what happened. 😞 They all went through QT and had meds and stuff and they seemingly were in there for a bit. Very strange indeed. What symptoms were you seeing?
  9. nabokovfan87
    Beautiful progress, nice work!
  10. nabokovfan87
    Difficult to tell from the photo. I would treat the tank with Expel-P (roundworms). This breaks down in light, so you'd want to dose it after lights out, followed by blacking out the tank for 24 hours. Repeat treatment 3 times, with a week break between each treatment. Details are towards the end of this video.
  11. nabokovfan87
    The most humane way I've heard of is the freezer. Supposed to be quicker than clove oil. I have heard of people doing the oil, then the freezer. Honestly, If you're legitimately trying to remove bad genes, I would lean towards having either a cull tank or having a place to euthanize those that you want to cull. Yes, its going to suck at first, and yes it's part of being a breeder and trying to sort for genes. Once you get rid of the ones that are causing the bad genes, the logic dictates that it wont happen as often and then you're just sorting by grade. (how red is red, etc) The difficult part of this process is sorting out which parents have the poor genes. This is where being able to set up a few colonies comes in handy for "breeding setups".
  12. nabokovfan87
    I like the ziss ones and then the neo ones (it's the same company that does the CO2 diffuser that ACO sells but it's just an air version with a white colored stone. There is also ones sold under the term sterilizers. I forget the website but it's supposed to be a product to help fight algae.
  13. nabokovfan87
    yeah. Before all the changes: -Tidal Filter (55, 75, 35, testing with a few) -Airstone -Ziss bubble bio -New Sponge Filter I moved the sponge to the other tank once it was seeded and at one point I was running the Tidal 55 and the 35 to seed the 35. I took out everything slowly, waiting inbetween changes for things to settle and ended up with just the airstone and just the tidal. That's when I got the worms and had removed the airstone prior to seeing them. All of that change in flow led to some issues. Currently: -CO2 Diffuser -Tidal 55 -"nano" circulation pump for CO2 with spraybar output -Airstone (used to go on / off with CO2, it's constant now) -Hang-on breeder box for plants salvage (Fluval / Marina one) Literally, if I was able to run the tidal across the length of the tank, long ways, I think I can get away with removing half of the equipment, no need for spraybar and what not. I do like having the airstone for Corydoras, almost always. On the 29G I was using a tetra whisper 20-30G pump and the ziss airstone. Of note, in the first version of this setup, the black corydoras have always been pretty calm and sat there during lighting. I am seeing them be a lot more active now and attacking the food. This is all after treating for internal issues and stuff, and the reason why I did all of that!
  14. nabokovfan87
    So.... one back of sand then? First set of fry go in there? 😉 It would be interesting to see if you notice any major behavior changes, that's all. I have noticed a TON more activity in my tank this week. Phosphates are down, algae is doing what it does, not many changes, apart from better movement and more oxygenation with the spraybar + Airstone back on 24/7. I am hoping to see some eggs, one of these days.
  15. nabokovfan87
    What type of design are you thinking? I'd point you to pondguru or kingofdiy for a ton of ideas on what to do. Fitting that to your specific design or making one of your own that fits your own needs is all that remains at that point.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Exactly! Lol. It's all about making it seem easy so more people do it! I think something Cory said a long time ago makes a lot of sense. About how when you want to breed them, do it at a big enough scale because it's easier when you can do it that way.
  17. nabokovfan87
    Totally have 2 right now. LOL. Chai Tea + Coffee still counts!
  18. nabokovfan87
    It'll be interesting to see how the colors change over time. Be careful with plants with fine leaves like that, I guess the word is that they get into pumps and equipment really easily because they can just get into little nooks and crannies. Awesome looking plant! Question for the Cory tank. Do you happen to have a QT tank or tub or anything?
  19. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, I did up the light. I see plants trying to grow with deficiencies in some spots and so the only way to fix that is magically nuke the algae and then dose as needed. I was dosing 2x a week with a decent plant load. That's gone. It's a ton of moss growing which is taking a lot of the fertz. Phosphates are down by about 65-80% and that's supposed to help with some of thos algae. Manual removal, good dosing, good CO2, stability in terms of parameters, and that's just all I can do besides adding more plants to the fire. The algae won't stop this moss, it's doing well, just also is housing the algae 😞 . It's probably both, but at this point I'm focused on staghorn based on the long strands I get in some spots. I don't think BBA does that. It's long and thin. Grey/white/blue which is just hard to determine based on everything.
  20. nabokovfan87
    I don't see a ton of high demand plants in there. The floaters need a corral or something or they will block out everything below. I would start at: Pure white: 45% Warm white: 40% Cool white: 30% Blue: 3% Red: 30-40% ~7-8 hours per day with a 1 hour sunrise / sunset window. Nothing after sunset. (just set the dials to 0 and then turn off night light)
  21. nabokovfan87
    This looks bacterial, not algae based to me. Take it out, rinse it well, then repeat that as often as need be. You can use a soft brush also to remove the finicky bits. If it was algae, or fungal, you'd handle it the exact same way. If you don't do this, the slime / bacterial bloom will clog equipment. Keep the equipment flowing, focus on lowering ammonia, water changes, etc. and then you'll be fine with the cycle. The key, especially if you're doing bacteria and ammonia from a bottle is to slowly process this. You want it to slowly develop without many peaks. When you add fish, add them slowly, give them time, track parameters.
  22. nabokovfan87
    Found this. Might be worth posting so I figured I would! As always, exciting stuff. Loving seeing this full circle.
  23. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, it sort of looked like that but I don't know if it's just normal or not. Some corydoras have a pretty specific body shape that can be misconstrued as a deformation. Specifically the ones that get longer like the emerald Corydoras or aenus corydoras. Some have a straight line for their bone plates others have a bit of an S curve. Totally could be that some of the ones I've seen and my black corydoras in my journal are deformed, but it's something to look at.
  24. nabokovfan87
    I appreciate the tag, always happy to help. There's a few things to note here. A. The prefilters are sold based on dimensions, and those dimensions make sense for the tank that is generally used. B. You can modify the prefilter based on the size of the inner hold you specifically need! C. You might need to keep in mind that the ACO filters are course foam. This isn't to say what is best, but simply put you're restricting flow and need to accommodate that as well. (For the tidal, this means drill some holes in the base of the intake basket. Alright so, I do have a tidal 75 and the "large" fits just fine. It's slightly loose fit in terms of tolerance, but it will sit on and hold in place. However, I would only use this on a 75G tank or larger. The rim size forces the HoB into a specific position where that fitment makes sense for that tank and intake. Any tank smaller you'll likely need to trim it in some capacity. On the pumphead I use I ended up taking a nano filter, enlarging the hole, cutting it down to about 1/2 the length. On the Tidal 55 I ended up using a small or medium and doing something very similar. This was because the outside diameter of the sponge was so big that it makes it impossible to get the sponge off without releasing everything. The tidals do have a pretty large diameter intake compared to other intakes of similar size. Cc @TeeJay I have both on hand. Let me know what you need and I can measure and take photos for you.
  25. nabokovfan87
    Hopefully doing well. Does the one that you moved have the same size and body shape as the other Corys or do you see deformations?
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