nabokovfan87

Absolutely! I promise you'll do absolutely fine. Snails are harder sometimes and snails are easy. Shrimp are the unsung joy of many hobbyists fishrooms. Amanos are like little soldier ants that never make a peep, but keep so many tanks going without needing or asking for much! How is acclimation going? Slow method, right? any nano fish would be fine. Barbs can get a bit pecky. Neons are generally fine / passive. Something like a skirt tetra might get picky, but it's not going to do much to the shrimp if they have cover. Once you get into angelfish and that sort of a behavior... then I'd worry. My tiger barbs just ignored them and went after eachother. Didn't even pay attention to the shrimp, except for the moment food hit and the amanos wanted their food.

Aqueon's have this. A few do. Not all. This is probably close to what you're wanting, pinch the hose and control the suction with the air / baster.

It's definitely a concern. Not just the meds, but the diseases themselves. Some do affect humans and it's something that we as hobbyists need to educate one another on what those are. There might be some diseases (especially parasites) where you really should be wearing gloves and should be taking precautions. Bacterial diseases and other things, there are scenarios where you do need to protect yourself.

Agreed. This tank looks like it's craving some dutch style big plant bushes that look amazing. The background is really cool, but it's a ton of potential there because of how well the plants are doing. Hygro Pinnatifida would be epic to compliment the tank in some way.

Especially in this photo it looks like a wound of some kind. Is it possible a rock or something fell during maintenance and caused a scrape? Because you saw fuzz, you're automatically going to want to treat for fungal. Either following that, or alongside, you'd treat for bacterial to prevent secondary infections. The go to for me in this scenario would be salt, Ich-X, Maracyn. I follow the directions on the Maracyn for how and when to dose the Ich-X / Maracyn. The maracyn says something like "on day 3 change water and dose meds". So what I do is I follow the volume of 30% WC on the Ich-X bottle and then go ahead and re-dose everything. I believe Maracyn says 25% water change, Ich-X says 30 before re-dosing. Aquarium Salt would go in on Day 1, if you decide to use it. You could also be looking at something like an anchor worm. Just something to note and look into.

That's perfect timing! I appreciate the heads up on the sale. I might have to take advantage and setup a plant tank to try to rescue some of the ones I am struggling with. Best of luck, looking forward to seeing photos and stuff when it's all done!

That's awesome, congrats!

the best place I would suggest is catfishplanet. That's my go to for any corydoras or pleco

Going to be a bad answer, but I literally couldn't pinpoint how long. The short answer is "not long at all", but we did have a tank growing up for about a year or so when growing up. Because of the memory of that tank, the enjoyment of that type of an atmosphere around the house I got one a few years back. It's been a minute or so (years I mean) but I honestly couldn't tell you how many. Started with that Marineland Bowfront starter pack that I kept eyeballing for months and then turned that into a few tanks because of Cory, then turned that into a 55G in my room and then added a 29G for some other fish, then turned that into a 75G tank and then removed a ton of the tanks from around the house and everything went into the 75. MTS is totally a thing, but I really enjoyed discovering that UGF turned into actual plants underwater and I'm still amazed by the entire thing. Currently running 2 29Gs with some of the fish that made the move to the new house as well as some new adds to the tanks 🙂 . The 75G is sitting in the hallway waiting to exist again, one day, eventually.... What is that plant in the middle? It's awesome. That's awesome. Your mom sounds like a wonderful person.

Photos added. I will add some much older photos of where we started here for the sake of those who want to see it. Trying to get rid of this stuff, I have: -Completely removed all hardscape and soaked it, all plants, etc. (RR Treatment, peroxide) -Completely recovered a ton of anubias, lost a few moreso recently with the latest spike in the main tank -This past week, details in my journal post, I removed a TON of algae manually with the tank and cut about 300+ S. Repens leaves off and tried to spread out the plants a little bit. -Running separate equipment for each tank at all time for any maintenance for these two tanks -Literally lost the urge/willpower to stare at this stuff and went literal on it.... When I took the plants out of the totes following moving, this was the condition of everything: Initial Setup: After the tubs: You can see the Staghorn front and center, the very bright red BBA everywhere else. This was the worst of it..... Left tank, this is how / when the algae started to really take hold. It went from being a minor thing to being this structure almost like tufts all over the wood in flow spots. You can also get a feel for how many times I've bought 10+ plant pots and tried to out compete this stuff and failed. This picture is from the previous setup (prior to two 29G setups) about 3 years ago and this was what it started off as, potentially:

They are super easy fish (most times)! I think the best advice I can give any pleco owner, especially for fry, is to have some wood in there for the tanks. They like to hide and be covered during the day, when the lights get dim you'll see them a bit more and they usually pop out of a log or something. Temps can really vary, but most catfish like it cooler rather than hotter. For these ones specifically, I have no idea, but please be sure to look that up! Those two things combined, they should do really well. Something like Repashy Bottom Scratcher, Repashy Soilent Green, Hikari algae wafers, or something similar once or twice a week and they should do really well for you.

I've heard that's the one to use, specifically for this stuff. I have amano shrimp in the most infested tank and someone on the forums here had mentioned some severe issues with shrimp and excel. I asked for the details, but I don't think the issue was clarified. I have had some stress signs last time I was doing easy carbon and so I wasn't doing it as constant. I am going to be speecifically following the directions to try what I can at their risk and excel is next up on the list. dosing actual CO2 you'd expect the plants to just grow like weeds, but the algae definitely has the foothold and is out competing everything and every batch of plants I dump into the tank.

Left tank is up for just under 1 year. Previously all this stuff was in a 75G / 29G at the old house setup for years. The Algae started about.... ~3 years ago I would say. Nothing serious until things went into tubs and nitrates and everything lingered and it went off. I totally didn't mention it, but had intended to. One of the variables here is that I am certain this is also coming from the water supply in some method. So when I do something like water changes to remove the spores, it's not working and actually encourages growth if the timing is right. It's happened 3-4 times where I get a massive boost of algae following a big change. I've also tried smaller, more constant changes, blackouts, nothing stops this stuff or recedes it. So yeah... here we are with chemicals now. Right tank is technically up for 3-4 months at this point and was barebottom for a little bit of that time (about half). It's been contaminated with stuff because it was under the stairs (spiral staircase) in a house with construction and pups. It's been cleaned thoroughly, moved, and setup now for about 3-4 weeks at this point, if I am recalling correctly. Filtration, equipment, all of that stuff has been running for many, many months just on tubs and other conditions, as well as the plants and hardscape.

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea We were talking slightly in the journal, I totally forgot about this thread. In terms of meds and the main tank. Do you have any Ich-X or jungle fizz tabs and the other meds you've been using to treat this? https://veterinaryresearch.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/1297-9716-44-27 From section 3 of the above page. I think treating the tank for bacterial may make sense for this situation, even just one dose to try to clean any remnants in the tank. Something is causing the stress on the fish and letting it re-infect. I'm just thinking out loud, but trying to sterilize all the equipment you can, any buckets, containers, etc. and then trying to remove any stress. I know you're doing awesome with that last part and the fish don't have any reason to be stressed anymore so it's gotta be lingering somewhere.

I will add a link to this post for the sake of ease on the OP. I got the bottle of easy green and I wanted to lay out the first set of plans here. Test 1: Low light, small infestation of "persistent" algae (Staghorn / BBA) Test 2: High light, CO2 Dosing, heavy infestation of "persistent" algae (Staghorn / BBA) Fake of clarity, I am going to refer to the low light tank as "right tank" and high light tank as "left tank" which is their position in the room. I'll go ahead and break down the setups for anyone who is curious. Left Tank (High Light): -29G Tank with glass lid -36" Fluval Planted 3.0 LED set at 30% -Tidal 55 Filtration, Sicce Nano Syncra Powerhead w/ spraybar -Pressurised CO2 Diffuser -Ghost Wood -Seiryu Stone -Seachem Flourite Black substrate -Plants: Staurogyne Repens, Taiwan Moss, Hygrophilia Pinnatifida, Some anubias nana petite (but not much, not expected to recover). -Dosing plan: Easy Green, 1 dose 1x per week (Sundays). Easy Carbon, 1 dose every day -Notes: There is a specific branch / section of moss under the light. The plan is on sundays I will spot dose that section with the full dosage in that spot and then fill the tank up as required with maintenance which will spread the Easy Carbon around the tank once the equipment turns back on. This is about a 12" section of branch that has been covered in this algae for over 6 months. The algae was removed as best as possible and has returned, feeding it again to the rest of the tank in force. This one specific spot on the tank is a key point of this test! -Notes2: Of note.... this tank has amano shrimp. The problem spot mentioned: Right Tank (Low Light): -29G tank with glass lid -24" Aquasky LED light set at 25% -Mopani Wood, Malaysian Driftwood -Lava Rock (Red) -Caribsea Sand Substrate -Plants: Varieties of Anubias, Susswassertang -Notes: This is the same algae in both tanks as everything that was infested started from the same set of tubs. Tanks are kept in very similar condition and same maintenance schedule.

Looks good. Toss some moss in the bottom and let it grow with all the ambient light!?

It is definitely hard to say what caused it. Tiger barbs can definitely attack one another, but I don't think they would attack in that specific location on the body. Usually the front or sides is where mine would attack one another. If it was the crayfish I would think you'd see more tissue. I would move the fish to a container and treat with the QT meds normally suggested. Aquarium salt to help the fish with external issues and general recovery, an airstone, Maracyn, and Ich-X. When the directions for Maracyn call for a water change follow the amount of water specified on the Ich-X (it's slightly more) and then dose in both meds. I think you'd be treating for bacterial issues in this case and the ich-x is to help prevent a secondary fungal issue.

Agreeed. Reproducing the issue is absolutely a concern. I have this week heard a story from someone who had one bubble pop up and hit a fish (I don't recall the substrate) and within a few seconds the fish had passed. I wouldn't wish that on anything and I definitely respect the concern. The tank I mentioned I had a 3-4" deep sand bed and I would move it every 1-2 weeks to do my best to remove anaerobic pockets. There's a few methods that people give in terms of caring for the sand and it's something that comes up on most videos for sand substrate geared towards beginners and how to care for it. It's absolutely one of the major cons in an evaluation of substrate choice. I do think it can be managed.

It's DEFINITELY less stress to move them and avoid the chaos of removing all the gravel and hardscape. When I have to do that I use a bucket, put in the sponge filter or an airstone and cover it into a quiet place for them away from any noise. They get to relax. With what happened to their mouths. I would suggest dosing salt and at least one dose of bacterial meds to help them recover. Sometimes damage like that can linger and they take a long time to recover. The salt will help perk them up and then having the meds in there might save you from having a lingering issue. You definitely need to care for sand. I had that sand in a 75G for about 3-4 years and had no issues. When you do your maintenance I recommend moving the substrate around with the back of a net, a chop stick, or your hand. Once the sand compacts you'll have less issues with air pockets and can proceed with just disturbing it when you siphon to remove them if they appear. Of note also, that tank was fully planted and did well. Currently using Crystal River and it's extremely nice stuff as well. Agreed. Especially if the bucket has a sponge filter in it from the tank! If you run a HoB or canister, just remove the media, put it into the bottom of the bucket (the ceramic media, not sponge) and then go ahead and run an airstone in the bucket. Agreed! totally can work leaving them in, especially in a bigger tank compared to a smaller one.

Closest I can think of is Schoutedeni Puffer. I don't know about their teeth, but maybe that's what you're looking for? Cory had some previously and did a few videos on them. I think Corvus and some others have some as well.

From directly under the light.... Have I mentioned how annoying this algae is? Saw this today, right before feeding. Hello little duder.

This totally exists let me find a photo or something. There is a few to choose from that might be really close to what you're thinking. Edit: This is what I was thinking about. It's not a full bodied emerald green but totally fits the vibe in the right light and setting. Green Neon Here is one that is slightly more green 🙂 I also saw a sparkling gourami with similar coloration as well, but not really that small nano size in the end 🙂

Just used mine yesterday! I think there is the nano twigs or would be some sort of a piece of wood on sale, that's what I would check. I would definitely start with hardscape because I need some more pieces if I have to pull this one out to get rid of the algae. I can't imagine walking out without some anubias, but if they had some moss I was trying to find (specific kinds), see..... It's a whole process. 😂

😂 I love it! I don't know how they would do in glass but yeah, I totally would enjoy that.

To your earlier question, basically any of the bottles stuff works. I tend to go with seachem just because that's what my local shop has. I've literally used all of them and even some random "no idea but it says bacteria starter" stuff I found when they had nothing else. Double dose when you first get it and a healthy bit of food. Then you do the normal dose for 7 days and you should be done. You have both bacteria in the tank and it's just a matter of time and surface area. Above I mentioned that you'd be looking at 1-2 weeks for things to finish processing. If you're dosing, you'd be at 5-10 days is my guess for the "safe for fish" scenario. If the nitrites linger way too long, then we'd just look at the filtration setup, but I think.you have plenty from what I was reading.