Jump to content
Watch our video on the rules of this forum.

nabokovfan87

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    11,089

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    69

  • Feedback

    100%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by nabokovfan87

  1. nabokovfan87
    Totally slipped my mind, but absolutely! Mmiller is an amazing resource for planted tanks information. There are some amazing ADA quality tanks on this forum and his is definitely one of em. found this today, might be fun to check out.
  2. nabokovfan87
    I totally understand. I wouldn't imagine any issues with your water at all. I have seen some fish lose fins as a result of "something" being off, but I don't remember and can only think of ammonia being the cause. I am sure someone much smarter than me can explain why, but I think it's the type of tissue where the fins deteriorating is a sign of something specific, usually. But yeah, It's super interesting stuff. I didn't know fish develop that way, so cool, learned something new 🙂. The first photo is the black cory I had. I don't know where, but I am sure I have a photo of some smaller pandas. That one shown is just the smallest I have to share. The ones I've seen have always had a normal tail.
  3. nabokovfan87
    @Torrey Tag! Let's keep this going. 🙂
  4. nabokovfan87
    Black swordtails 🙂 They have a lot of black, teal, green, opal type of coloration.
  5. nabokovfan87
    No. it's usually a sign of issues, ammonia burn or some sort of illness? It might be a thing where it's a morph or genetic trait as mentioned because they are "whale tail" or something? That's new to me.... Here's mine.
  6. nabokovfan87
    Ah I see. Definitely worth a shot. The worst part is that having the plants in a tub is what caused it because I couldn't do a WC. Bucket only with plants is a lot easier. I can literally swap it to a different place. I had the hang-on breeder box I was trying to use..... a fish jumped. I did the RR thing, killed some plants and it grew back. I need to nuke the wood somehow. I doused the wood in H2O2 and it didn't really work or do anything. Even when I get this stuff to turn red / white like it's dying it just comes back! I have had "success" somewhat when the plants are low demand and I can just turn off the lights entirely (panda horde), but as nitrates spike the algae is starting to show up slightly. Dosing easy green there. I tried to "outcompete" it with more load, but that just lead to issues with conversion, equipment failures (plants in the pump). I did add a dresser so I could setup a plants tank and do exactly what you are describing, but the bottom of it got rotted out when it was in storage and I don't trust it. I have a small table I was going to use for a 5G tank, but I found out this week that the hardware holding it together on the bottom is just missing and I need to find out where I can get some of those cams or something to fix that. The other issue is that I want to save the moss as the "fast growing plant", but it's glued to the wood. I can remove it, make a big ball, and I'm absolutely fine with that if it comes to it. I know... I know.... it sounds like a list of excuses. I am totally frustrated. We'll see how the blackout goes and then go from there. The irony is I've tried high light, low nutrients..... I've tried low light, low nutrients...... I've tried "normal light" and dosing when the plants dictate it's needed and tried slightly higher / lower than that amount..... I really, really, really wish I understood the mechanics of how algae works systemically. Especially this red algae stuff, I just have some questions on how it functions on a micro level so I can optimize one method to stop it from thriving. So far the biggest thing for me is the spores and trying to find some method to kill the spores and stop the spread. From what Bentley said, that indicates to me that potentially the blackout would choke out the spores? Maybe I just need to understand the timeline for that and then I can make sure I do so for long enough. Time will tell! I miss the army though! Panda horde, amano horde.... I enjoy things en masse I guess. 😂 I really do want to get more, but have been trying to get that whole KH thing dialed in again. I've totally have made progress on that front, but I am surprised that method didn't work!!!!
  7. nabokovfan87
    The Corys should do well with the same treatment the Bettas are getting, they like tannins, they do fine with salt for illness, enjoy added air, and so on. Hopefully there's an explanation or improvement soon for your group. Make sure they are eating also to try to push out the parasites. When you do feed them just keep an eye out and see if one of them doesn't.
  8. nabokovfan87
    Wednesday, so maintenance on "Right tank" and I spotted this swimming around! For context, here is a picture of the smallest fry I had before discovering the newest one, the new one is super tiny. Very likely was just released. One of the cool things about live-bearers is how the fry come out and can be colored up. Awesome stuff to see a fish grow and their patterns grow in. I dropped some repashy in for them and will keep a close eye in the morning during coffee.
  9. nabokovfan87
    Anubias + Mopani is literally what should be the "Fish tank beginner kit" for everyone. It always looks SO AWESOME. The dark brown and the texture on the work works so well to make it feel natural and anubias is just a wonderful, easy plant that can go through a lot and still end up ok. Your tank looks great. I really dig the layout and it reminds me of so many of my own. 🙂 Now if I only had some white clouds around...... 😂
  10. nabokovfan87
    Very sorry for your loss and recent struggles. Whenever fish (and especially shrimp) are new that is when they tend to be most sensitive. Movement is stressful and the fish are more often in their fight or flight response modes. It's important that whenever a fish is in QT or in a tank that isn't their normal place (like a bucket when doing an overhaul on a tank) that you do have them in a quiet place and try to reduce ambient noise. Corydoras especially, can be very sensitive to vibrations, doors, cupboards, walking, things dropping on surfaces, and that can spook other fish and cause them to jump. At worst case, cover a tank with a dark towel and that should alleviate a lot of issues, but a big fish can get through a towel if it really wants to. Lids are a great tool for so many species and fish will find the smallest holes when they are scared. It is very unfortunate, but it does happen. It happened to me recently and it is never fun. Best of luck, throw some salt over your shoulder and hopefully things get better for you!
  11. nabokovfan87
    I think @Bentley Pascoe had mentioned on on of his videos about how the bigger loaches fart and have some bouyancy issues. I might've misunderstood. He just did a talk that might have some useful info for you and help out.
  12. nabokovfan87
    sounds like my water slightly. I've kept a lot of fish, the main thing is stability. Having the KH (buffer) at 40 is right on the edge and that just means that if you have a lot of waste, PH and KH would crash slightly. So.... for my tank I use an additive from seachem to slightly stabilize things. For most situations, and this is something @TeeJay did with his, was to go ahead and used crushed coral to stabilize the KH (slightly boost it to the 60-80 range) and then that will go ahead and give you lower risk of PH crashes and a more stable environment. As for what does "well" there's a long list. Most tetras, rasboras, barbs, community fish, corydoras, etc. will all do perfectly well in that setting. It's also a fantastic base for a blackwater setup and for Caridina shrimp. I also think that most cooler water species will do fine like shrimp, corydoras, vast array of plecos, rice fish, and mountain minnows. https://www.aquariumcoop.com/blogs/aquarium/ph-gh-kh
  13. nabokovfan87
    I saw a chart somewhere on a video. 30 degrees is considered "liquid rock" So you're right at the "very hard water" range.
  14. nabokovfan87
    I honestly haven't found one that I like. I think the best person to ask would be @Seattle_Aquarist. I have tried the Fluval one, it was "fine". Whenever I use one again I am going to lean towards the amazonia 1. It does leech, so you have to run the tank for a little bit before you add fish back or do a bunch of water changes.
  15. nabokovfan87
    *sips coffee* Alright, I'm ready.... It's light or something I think. It's hard to explain, but yeah the shrimp go nuts when lights pop up. I think it might be because in nature that's when everything wakes up and that's their normal behavior? I had the same thought, it's a beautiful tank.
  16. nabokovfan87
    Yeah, those are cool. I think that's the one that steenfott uses on his streams for a background sometimes. Really interesting and unique pattern! What were you asking about earlier? You had mentioned if I can move the plants to a different light? I can change the light on the tank too back to the shorter one.
  17. nabokovfan87
    It's basically just small pieces of lava rock at some point. For some fish it's too sharp and for plants there is other options if you're looking for a cap or for some sort of rich nutrient lifecycle. If this was my tank and I wanted to replace substrate I would prep a few things, but regardless of size it's always going to be the same method. Because it's going to be a major task it makes it slightly more complicated.... First, get 3-4 pretty good size bins as opposed to buckets with lids if you can. Second, fill those up with tank water about halfway and then put an airstone or sponge filter / cycled media (with airstone) into each bucket that will have live animals Third, go ahead and put a section of the tank into each bin until you have all of the plants removed. If possible, all the animals / fish would go into one bin by themselves. Fourth, place all of the rocks / wood into their own bins Finally, go ahead and siphon out as much water as possible to make it easier to remove the substrate without the added weight .... Then you'd just go ahead and remove the substrate with a shop vac or a scoop of some kind. Rinse, add in the new substrate and go ahead and add back in all of your wood / rocks, then go ahead and add in your plants and the animals. If you have airstones and filtered media with the animals then you can leave them in the bins as you need to. The fish and shrimp will need a lid because they can easily get spooked and jump out of the bins at that point. Plants need to stay wet as well as any ceramic / biological filtration in the system. Hopefully that helps! That is how I've handled it in the past.
  18. nabokovfan87
    I would say wait for the ACO lights to see what it has for features and how it compares..... VERY awesome lid. Is there any way to custom order one or is it only pre-set lid sizes and layouts?
  19. nabokovfan87
    Awesome! Let us know how it goes when you have a chance to fit check.
  20. nabokovfan87
    @xXInkedPhoenixX what do you think? You have a ton of experience with the bettas compared to me!
  21. nabokovfan87
    You could try some sort of floating divider that opens up a spot of light to the bottom of the tank. I don't think this works with floating stems as well as floating plants that tend to be a lot smaller. You could try to suction cup it to the side and tie it with something too.
  22. nabokovfan87
    They also love big pieces of Mopani! If you don't see a good one in the fish section, double check the lizard side of the shop and they might have flat pieces for perching. Same wood, same tags, they literally just sort them differently based on placement.
  23. nabokovfan87
    It is definitely a fickle one. I am not a fan of it. Honestly. It's a pump you can mount on the side in my view. The sad thing is it works better than the other filters because it has press-fit tolerances instead of whatever seachem decided was sloppy enough on the bigger ones. That's a lot of shrimp! It's a good thing though, they are doing well for you 🙂 .
  24. nabokovfan87
    Gotta love all those river monster episodes and learning so much about fish around the world and seeing their habitats (intended or not so much)
  25. nabokovfan87
    Once you get to 50 posts the fish trade section opens up. Just wanted to mention that in case it helps you out at all. 🙂 I understand the need and urgency and hopefully someone is available! At the worst case of the situation, I think we'd all be more than happy to help point you in the direction to care for the fish and have it be very easy to do so if that is something you can do. I understand you mentioned you can't and there could be some physical limitation / injuries going on, I totally understand. I just wanted to mention that as well.
×
×
  • Create New...